My build up thread 67 small window short/fleet

[byrd]

I wish I could, the shop is not mine so don't hold it against me The shop is my mom and step dads place, and have been generous enough to let me build my truck there.I really hate the mess, but the shop has evey tool I need and several I don't and that makes up for it I guess. Although you can see I have several things in there too, but most will dissappear once I have the chassis rolling and get it out to the barn to work the cab over.

[bryanw1968]

Originally Posted by byrd

Here is a pic of the wheels and tires I got off my parts truck that I will be useing at least for a while but wanted to know what they are. If anybody knows please speak up!!

Those wheels look like Speed Racers wheels!!!!
Remember those?

[84 400]

very nice byrd i wish i had the space and money to do one like that

[byrd]

OK , finally made some head way..... Got a set of replacement spring perches from Burnsman(thanks again Brian ) and got the rivets popped out,cleaned up and two part rust converted. Got 1/2"x1" long Stainless grade 8 bolts with stainless flat washers and stainless fiber locks nuts. Drilled the perches and the frame out to accomodate the larger bolts and bolted the perches on. Then got the rest of the frame wiped down with pre clean and shot the Eastwoods rust encapsulator on the bottom and part of the sides of the frame I didn't get when I painted the other side. Then on to painting the same parts of the frame and shoved it back into the garage to dry for a day or two and then hopefully will have the rolling chassis close to being together by th end of next weekend. The frame looks pretty good,eventhough you can see brush marks from where I brushed the two part converter on.Notice my wheel dolly rollers rolls around great and high up enough to paint, fairly comfortably. The trusty cherry picker and a shart tow strap has been used to move the frame to the floor from the table stands I had it on and also to flip the frame over once it's dry to start assembling the suspension. Here are a couple of pics.. the last two showing the before and after shots of the bad spot in the frame on the DS that was repaired.

[nandress]

Originally Posted by byrd

in the last pic I have mocked up the tranny crossmember, but am unsure if it is in the right location? and the right orentation as well? I will be installing a 700r4 and wanting to make sure it is in the right spot before I paint the frame, any help is greatly appreciated, Randy

This is the best picture I could find of our crossmember. We didn't even attempt to fit ours without the engine and transmission. We found that a few of the holes were close, but still at least half off. So we ended up drilling two mounting holes in the flanges fairly close together (top and bottom, left and right) to mount ours in. Then we filled most of the other holes in the frame to make it look better.

Before we got this crossmember, we tried a stock automatic crossmember and found it fit just as badly.

So I would say, expect to move it!!!

[lilpup69chevy]

nice looking job you've done so far its gonna be a very nice machine when its done, by the way what are you going to do with those 6 hole mag slots that was on the rear when you got it???

[krue]

Looks like it's gonna be a beauty when you're done.

[watahyahknow]

just finisched reading this threat..... great buildup keep it up .
back on the rims though : they look like the type of rims you see on stockcars dunno if there steel ones though
if they are used in stockcarracing the boldholes should be drilled to big for the axle you have them on (they need to use bigger bolts for racing acording to the rules )

[LUV2XCLR8]

Progress of any type is better than none at all

[byrd]

More prgress, got the rear end under the frame and mocked up the rear suspention, got the front x-member bolted in and the front suspention ( 2" drop spindles and 1" drop springs) all bolted up. Started to mock up the brakes lines, but the stainless prebent ones I got from the truck shop don't seem to be right? Looks as if they will need to be corrected in a few spots, and I have all stainless retainers for the lines. Got the fuel line sorta in place to what I will need to add to it to reach the fuel cell( on order should be here in a week or two) from the Fuelcell guy Anyway tomorrow try to get the rear suspention all buttoned up try to get a little further on the brake lines. I seem to be missing a bracket on the rear end where the flexible line connects to where the two brake lines split to get to each wheel. If anybod has one laying around I would like to get it from, PM if you have one. Couple of pics.

[byrd]

lil pup I am most likly going to sell them. I have the two 10 rears that you seen in the pic on the truck and I have one front 6 or 6.5" wide 6 lug. Not sure what they are worth but shipping would be costly I would assume. Rany

[tbish3]

Great build up! I am getting ready to start on my 68 GMC build up. I like the 10" slots on the old rear too. Shoot me a price on them if you don't mind. Are the tires any good? What size are they? Keep up the good work. It gave me some motivation to get going on mine......Thanks.

[byrd]

Update,
Got all the front and rear suspension bolted in and torqued down to factory specs. I also got the brakes lines, and the front part of the fuel line in and strapped into place, I still need to tweak the rear lines and add a strap near the hoghead. I have ordered a 6' piece of stainless for the fuel line to get back to the fuel cell.I got the lines for the truck shop and used stianless straps and button head stainles screws from inlinetube to hold the lines in place, Had to drill and tap each strap ,but I think the overall was worth the extra effort . I also got the front sway bar installed, and have started getting the steering together so it will soon be mobile. I dropped the motor off at a local machine shop for them to rebuild it to stock specs, $1150, still cheaper tan the cheapest crate motor and this shop has A LOT better reputation than the crate motors have. I will be dropping the tranny(700r4) off tomorrow at a local shop to have them buiild and update it for my truck should cost about $750.Here are a few pics...

[byrd]

Today I get the 700r4 out of my garage that I got from bisquick only to find the tranny is damaged beyond all repair I believe it was dropped off of a two story building during shipping It was my fault as I didn't unwrap it when they delivered it, I will know better next time The case was almost completly broke in half and just not worth messing with now, $300 down the drain So I got on the net and called Bowtie overdrives up and ordered a level 1 200r4, 1800 rpm converter,cooling lines, tv kit, install kit with trans temp gauge, converter lock-up kit, and mounting pad for custom x member. All totaled with shipping set me back about $1750, but at least I've got all the parts and a good name tranny. Should be here in about 3 weeks, and hopefully the motor will be about a week ahead of it to get it painted and ready for the tranny.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by byrd

Today I get the 700r4 out of my garage that I got from bisquick only to find the tranny is damaged beyond all repair I believe it was dropped off of a two story building during shipping It was my fault as I didn't unwrap it when they delivered it, I will know better next time The case was almost completly broke in half and just not worth messing with now, $300 down the drain So I got on the net and called Bowtie overdrives up and ordered a level 1 200r4, 1800 rpm converter,cooling lines, tv kit, install kit with trans temp gauge, converter lock-up kit, and mounting pad for custom x member. All totaled with shipping set me back about $1750, but at least I've got all the parts and a good name tranny. Should be here in about 3 weeks, and hopefully the motor will be about a week ahead of it to get it painted and ready for the tranny.

BYRD

I just installed the BO TV made EZ and the TC lock-up kits. Only drove it 4 miles (truck isn't "legal" yet) but the tranny felt very responsive and shifted nicely.

Couple things they don't tell you in the instructions (I called them on the first item and I got the second item from a classic trucks mag article from 2004)

1.) In the instructions for the lock-up kit they tell you to remove all wiring and install the 4th gear pressure switch, but in the pictures it looks like all of the other "ports" (where the other pressure switches are) looked empty. I called them and their "tech support" people said to leave any plug or pressure switch in place and only swap out the 4th gear switch. Depending on the 700R4 they give you it could have as few as 2 switches and 2 metal plugs, or 4 switches with lots of wiring.

2.) A quick tip to set up the TV cable properly is to leave the tranny pan off, hook it up (after you intall the spring in the little TV body in the trans) and set it up so that the plunger is just touching the valve body when it is fully extended. SO that when you touch the throttle at all the valve body should move in instantly. It should be FULLY extended at idle/no throttle.

Hope that helps. If you already knew that stuff.... then maybe it will help someone else

[byrd]

Thanks for the tips I will be using their tranny(already internally wired for the tclu) I had to get the TV install kit to give them the pressure readings, and temp readings for the warranty. I will be using your tips I'm sure, but not for a long while yet

[68GenIII]

Great story and great project!!! I would love to be as far along as you!!

[84 400]

Byrd you are flying on this build up. very nicely done so far i can't wait to see the motor and trans in

[barepaint]

Byrd hows it hangin...just got marride bud...new rides a comin hey...keep it goin...just letting every one know lookin for a small back window half ton...for My new baby...I'm sure your ride will be sweet

[Bob Moore]

Byrd - Picture #2 on post 38 shows the front sway bar. From the angle showing it looks to me that the sway bar is upside down. I believe the dip in the bar should go down. On my 3//4 T (very original) the bar dips down. The facory assembly manual shows the bar dips down. I know it fits your way - did you do that for improved performance? Years ago I had a Mazda RX2 used for Solo that put a spacer between the bar and frame to change the angle and preload the sway bar for stiffer action.

Your project is great by the way. Just wish mine were at the same level of completion.

[PICKMUP]

Great build up! It should be very driveable and a cool little ride!
NOTE: Thanks for respecting the previous owner. I see so many guys bragging about screwing/stealing these trucks from the older owners or their widows. It is nice to see some honor for those who owned these trucks originally.

[byrd]

Bobmoore, you are right is it on upside down I figured that one out after trying to install the steering linkage. With the motor no being in there to weigh down the front it was pretty hard to install and it just seemed to fit better this way which I know now is wrong I will flip it over and get the rest of the steering together most likley tuesday or so.


I got word from the Mark (FCG) that my fuel cell will be here late this week or first of next so I will have a little to do while I wait on the motor and tranny.

[O Papa Mo]

Thanks for sharing... this is truly an awesome thread. I too will be posting the efforts as my sons an I work through the restoration of a 69 C10.

Your photo story is really an inspiration....!!!

Morigeau

[kylejamers]

cool

[byrd]

My fuel cell came in today from FCG and it looks sweet!! I am excited to get it installed tomorrow and hopefully the rest of the stainless E-brake cables, stainless fuel and brakes lines, with a new bender will come in tomorrow just in time for the weekend I did get a few other things finished up, like the sway bar flipped over and now properly installed , steering linkage in place, adjustable rear track bar painted, installed and torqued down.

I haven't been able to find the torque specs in the u-bolts for the lower control arms and the torque spec for the 4 nuts that hold the upper control arms on. They are the only pieces of the suspension that isn't torqued down yet, and if anybody knows what they should be set at I would appreciate the help. Pic of the fuel cell for now and hopefully a few pics of it installed tomorrow or Saturday.