Halogen upgrade -- worth it?

[Hart_Rod]

I think the biggest advantage to running the wiring harness, is the fact that you reduce the amount current that is running through your fuse panel. While I'm sure most people won't have any problems running the lights through the stock fuse panel, just realize those panels weren't designed for the amout of current draw that halogen headlights require. The headlight harness is pretty cheap insurance to help avoid overloading your old fuse panel. A quick check to see if you are overloading the fuse panel, after driving with the headlights on for a while, stop and touch the fuse panel. It should be a little warm, but it shouldn't be to hot to touch. Just my .02.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by mrein3

Near the battery I marked one relay high and one low. Connect the highbeam headlight wire you removed from the headlight near the battery to the high relay connector 86. Low from factory to lowbeam relay connector 86. These wires are the wires from the switch in the cab that will switch the relay on. Now all you have to do is hook a ground wire to 85. You also need to get a 10 or 12 gauge FUSED wire from the battey to connector 30 on the relays. DON'T FORGET TO PUT A FUSE IN-LINE ON THIS WIRE.

Can I quote myself? Well I am.
As long as this thread came back from the dead let me relay a story of what happed to me this past week.

I was bolting the right inner fender to the right fender. The bolts weren't lining up but on a 35 year old truck this isn't too out of the ordinary. All of a sudden my headlights went on. Hmmmm. I jiggled the wires around my relay upgrade and they went out. I checked with the headlight switch and they appeared to be working. Both high and low beams.

I never did get the bolts in and it was time for bed so I left it for the next day.

The following day I noticed the 10 or 12 gauge wires I used in the upgrade from the relay to the headlights were pinched between the battery tray and the inner fender. I got them out and tried the lights. You should have heard the self resetting circuit breaker!

To make a VERY long story short; MAKE SURE YOU USE A FUSE OR CIRCUIT BREAKER WITH SOMETHING LIKE THIS! I can't imagine what I would have done to my truck if I had nothing between the battery and the relay when I shorted that large wire.

[kbs71]

The reason you want to install the relays, is the Headlight switch contacts aren’t designed to carry the type of amperage that Halogen bulbs will pull.
There are several places to get good quality electrical parts and hardware. The terminals for the headlights are 5/16" and are available at Ron Francis http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....rta~partsort~2 P/N AM-8 you get 8 for $7.95. Or you can get 50 if you think you need that many. This way you can just buy bulk wire and make your own harness. The other ends are 1/4" and can be had at MAD Electric http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/flat-blade.shtml P/N 10-56F10 you get 10 for $2.99 or again 50 if need be. By the way the 5/16" terminals aren’t readily available over the counter. I tried every where to find them and finally had to order them from Ron Francis. He was the only one I've found that carries them. The 1/4" one can be had at NAPA and are easily found on the internet, they are used everywhere else I've looked on my truck for the female terminal end, and I've replaced a lot of terminals. Oh if your headlight sockets are burnt up or the terminals don't lock in place because the sockets worn out just go to any auto parts store and look for one. Auto Zone, NAPA, they all carry it. Here's the link to Auto Zones web page http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...ction=loadPage P/N 85810 for $2.99 each.
You can either buy the fancy wire from MAD or just go to your local Auto zone or NAPA and pick up some bulk wire. You'll need Brown, Green and Red and some Black. Then just make up your own harness. Relays, I really likes the ones at Parts Express http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=339-075 P/N 339075 for the socket and 330-077 for the relays you'll need 2 of each. Also fuse holders http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=070-675.
The H4 Lens can be had a JC Witless http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000165791 P/N ZX139317U $17.99 They also have replacement bulbs all different wattages.
It took me about 3 hrs to solder and make up the harness and about 2 hrs to install that was using all the parts I listed and bulk wiring. I also used from MAD http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml P/N CN-1 $6.99 each. Get several of these they work great under the dash on the fire wall etc.
The H3 bulbs are for single element lights i.e. separate hi/lo beam like the GMC's have. The H4 and the sealed beams that came with the trucks whether it’s a normal sealed beam or a halogen sealed beam use the same socket so they are interchangeable. When you start getting into the 9000 series they are all of the newer "weather resistant" type connectors from the later 80's and up. You can get and install a harness with the 9000 type socket and just run that type bulb in the H4 lens assy if you wanted. But I don't know why you'd want to.
It's easier just to use your original socket take a small screw driver and insert it into the end the that the blade from the bulb slides into the terminal to release the small clip that holds the terminal in place. Pull the wire and terminal out, and then replace it with a new one. This is if you’re building your own or the wires on your kit are too long, or you get the wrong kit and just want to try and use it with new terminal ends. Or you can splice the wire but that looks cheesy to me. If your gonna do it then do it right. Electrical work isn't hard it just takes a little practice and patience.
The H6024 or 6014 bulbs are sealed beams. In other words the bulb and lens are one assembly. Whereas the H4 lens and its corresponding H4 bulb listed under dozen of P/N depending on what wattage and manufacturer you choose is separate. The H4 designator stands for a design type. The lens is installed like your regular sealed beam headlight. On our trucks you have to trim out the headlight bucket for the back of the lens to fit. Then you just have to replace the bulb itself when it blows out. The bulb comes in a multitude of different wattages. In the Wiring Diagram below there needs to be a 30 amp fuse or Circuit breaker when it says “Direct to battery terminal”. This will protect your truck from a short that could possibly burn it to the ground.
I’ve done this mod on at least 6 different early 50’s to 90’s model cars and trucks, They ALL improved the performance of the headlight noticably.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1160589844

[jpkerley]

hey soon 2 blaze where did you get that harness, i didn't see it on ECE's website.

[chevy_fatman]

Great thread! very informative!

[1933 Gasser]

Originally Posted by kbs71

There are several places to get good quality electrical parts and hardware. The terminals for the headlights are 5/16" and are available at Ron Francis ...

I got my relays from a late model Chrysler at a local wrecking yard. It had two relays on it and had a nice little bracket and harness. I learned about it from this forum. Cost $2.50.

[sleepyboy]

the relay conversion made an awesome difference in mine.

[Mordachai]

Originally Posted by 724wdcopper

perhaps there is some confusion as to sealed beam halogens and replaceable bulb halogens... not sure, just an idea. i have Hella headlights with H4 bulbs (5 low/100 high) and they are FAN-FREAKIN-TASTIC! and that is with the facotry harness...

I put hellas in my truck too about 6 years ago, but the H4's in mine are 55/100.
I also put relays in and all new wiring from the firewall forward.
I have a GMC, so it was a bit harder to find the 5 3/4" bulbs instead of 7" like in the chevy. but since it was so long ago, the lenses were damn expensive. But I really thought it was worth it. With the lenses being made by many companies, and easy to find and cheap, I'd say it's definitly worth the $

[IvelDesigns]

anyone have a link to a good conversion kit with relay?

[1933 Gasser]

Just got my new lights installed. Really happy with the additional light. The jury is still out on whether I like the new looks.