Little Help with Fastrac Top Install

[bouncytruck]

here's the last of them...

[Mike C]

OK, finally got my top installed. Here is a pic before I got the snaps on the front. I had to cut the front part of my cage out because it was too tall/wide at the front. Any tips on getting a better fit around the windows? I notice on the lock-bow you did not use the top hole they show in the instructions? Have I stretched mine too tight? I have a BIG gap at the curve of the back of the door window. If it had Suburban windows in it, would seal up great!

Below that is a shot of my Duramax truck with my 36" Goodyears on it. These are the Jimmy's new treads as soon as I can score a donor 3/4 4x4. I REALLY like the look, but no way could it be driven! I raised the rear up about an 1", and the front about 4" using blocks, jackstands and steel tube. (note the curve of the 265 75 16 on the other side LOL!) "Old-School" photo shop.

[bouncytruck]

glad you got it installed. It looks great. I installed it per the instructions. I don't get quite as many ripples in the side windows on mine, but mine is white so they wouldn't show as much anyway. I also don't have a roll bar.

I have the same gap at the back of the door glass. I think it is just the way they fit. It actually isn't the place that it leaks when it rains - the front of the door glass and corner of the windshield frame is where i get leaks.

I keep wondering if they gave you the instructions for a second generation Blazer with all the trouble you've had with them.

[Mike C]

Who knows? I actually have had the top off since that pic, as noted it was not fully snapped because of the roll cage. Virtually no wrinkles now. It looks great IMO. BUT, the gap at the back of the window is big enough to put the tip of my index finger through! Oh well.... I'm going to finish trimmin out my storage building this week, then it's time to strip the interior for new roll cage install. I need to test out how difficult manual bends are going to be on that 2" .134 DOM. I may have to suck it up and go hydro.

[bouncytruck]

Yep, the gap is definately large enough to put your finger through it. I see several other places that the design could be improved, but you take what you can get. The zippers on the sides of mine have started to pull loose in a couple spots and there are a couple wear holes in the side windows rub on the vinyl. I may take it to an upholstry shop near my office to see if they can fix the zippers before next summer.

[Yukon Jack]

Jimmy looks awesome Mike! Would an upholstery shop be able to add some material at the problem area to seal it up better? Sure makes you wonder why the top company wouldn't try to make a better product. Surely wouldn't take much effort to get it right.

[Mike C]

Thanks Mark. It really needs quite a bit more if you stick with the design they have. Not sure if I can rig something better. I don't drive mine that much anyhow, but for those who do, this is a pain. All in all, better than no top! Can't wait to start on the cage. I bought 80 feet of 2" DOM with .134 wall. Not sure how complicated I'm going to get. I'd like to cage the entire passenger area, but the top bows won't fold if I do that. Still planning in my head. And looking for my 8 lug donor truck...

Of all the crap I have: Longhorn Dana 60 will bolt right in, but has 1/2" wheel studs (instead of 9/16) and 3.73 gears. Long step Dana 60 has 4.57, 1/2" studs, and perches have to be re-done. And the Suburban rear is coil spring, but it has 4.10 and 9/16 studs, but it's an Eaton. And none of those solutions address the front since they are all 2x4. Poop.

[Yukon Jack]

Mike - I might be working on my K5 this weekend - any chance you can get your pics back in this thread for my reference?

[Mike C]

My server went down and don't know if I'll have access again. Let me know which ones you want, and I'll email 'em to you.