Changing my carburetor, any advice on installation?

[Slonaker]

If the quadrajet parts work, you could probably get them easily from a junkyard. Even if you don't have pickups to choose from, I doubt the car versions are any different.

When I was considering a 1406, I found the parts I was looking for by using the search function at summitracing.com and searching fo terms like "1406 bracket" or "edelbrock bracket."

Good luck,

Slonaker

[piecesparts]

So what is it that you want? Which Edelbrock are you mounting? As for the OE bolting up, who knows, everything is different when you are changing things out. I happen to have a couple Edelbrock catalogs on my desk and part numbers are relatively easy. The website is confusing, to say the least. IF you are hooking up to a Chevy truck (to an Edelbrock Performer series carb) with cruise control, then use Edelbrock bracket # 1484, this one allows for the cruise, throttle, and kick-down all in one happy installation. Most carbs come with the throttle stud in the carb box, the auto trans kick down stud is Edelbrock #8018. Edelbrock sells a bracket to mount the trans cable/throttle cable to for GM ---Edelbrock #8036 (gold color) or # 8030 (chrome plated). On the other hend, if you are hooking up to a "Q-jet" style carb from Edelbrock, then the linkage is supposed to be compatible with factory linkage, but the person may have to go to GM or a salvage yard for the linkage brackets.

I purchased a universal throttle mounting bracket at my local O'Reilly's for mounting everthing (chrome), they had it on the wall. However, I ended up making my own brackets out of 1/8 inch thick plate and welded to tangs (1 turning up and 1 turning down) to hold the cable mounts. It mounted on the driver's side rear carb stud and had ashort stud to fit into the extra carb mounting foot hole to keep the bracket from moving when accelerating. That way I could make it look like I wanted it and then powder coat it to match the motor. I have made a couple and it doesn't take long.

[84 400]

my motor does not have a pcv vavle on it. insted i have a filter eliment on one valve cover and a cap that pluggs into the front of my edelbrock carb. is that kinda like a PVC valve?? also my filter cover has a spot i could drill out iof i wanted to use a vent to the filter cap itself i can get picks but not for a week don't know if it helps at all i need to get some new motor pics with the cleaned compartment and the cleaned intake with no coolent leakage. note to self never buy a chrome timing chain cover waste of money can't even see it

[cliffsta]

We ghetto'ed up some bracketry on our own. Father is a copy repairmen, he was in no shortage of random stuff at work. Got it all on and running, timing is set, he's running like he never ran before. The kickdown even seems to function correctly!!!!

I'll make a thread w/ pics tomorrow night.

Dangit if this wasn't the most difficult thing I've ever done (moreso than even the timing set) but man is it worth it.

[cliffsta]

Choke plate kickoff lever... the vertical lever attached to the throttle that pivots that plate over the front barrels, i assume for warmup purposes... mine sticks in the closed position, forcing the air through the big, back barrels, and I'm getting ridiculous RPMS. The electric choke is not currently hooked up... when I plug it in and it gets juice, will it prevent this from occuring? If not, is this adjustable somehow? For now I have the lever eletrical-taped to the carb body to just bypass it entirely. Could it be related to I have WAAAY too much spring tension on the throttle? We're gonna remove one of the springs tomorrow.

I'd like y'alls thoughts Thanks in advance.

[piecesparts]

Actually the plate over the fron barrels is the choke plate. It is what limits the amount of air that [asses over the venturis to get a richer mixture for a cold start. The high idle is due to the cold start idle cam that is on the driver's side of the carb (behind the throttle lever). If you look at the front of the carb and down under the throttle shaft, you will see a set screw that is used to adjust the idle speed on the different cam steps. You can adjust this to allow for no change in idle when the cam is set by the choke plate.

You need to hook up the electric choke to an ignition "ON" source and then when the ignition is off the choke can cool and reset itself. The black bakelite choke assembly has three (3) screws around it's circumference that is used to set the choke's sensitivity. That is a trick in itself, but can be accomplished on a cool day easily. ( With the motor shut off and preferably in the morning before you start the truck---loosen the screws on the choke housing---then slowly turn the black bakelite housing conterclockwise, while holding the throttle open on the carb, until you see the choke plate move to the open position---NOW turn the choke assemble clockwise until the choke plate actually closes about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch---tighten the set screws) When you start the truck adjust the idle speed screw until you have about 1200 RPMs when the choke sets itself and you are good.