Question about paintjobs

[wolfthing2000]

To set a record straight here, I plan on Acrylic single stage and buff it all out also so like I say: you do dis , I do dat!!!

[bucket]

hey andy, was that infamous "polishing a turd" photo a rattle can job. if so, i remember it polishing out pretty well. i also recall a mt. dew can....

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by wolfthing2000

You can buff anything. Just like I say and no fingers pointed at any one here..................................











you do dis and i do dat!

??????????????????????????????????????? I guess you are discussing the use of the Rustoleum. I stand by the fact that the use of an Acrylic Enamel would be much better, as I and Wolfthing noted earlier, but heck, you can even boff out Krylon rattle can paint to a shine and make it look good. I am confused, maybe. Painting something is al ittle bit of a challenge, but buffing can be simple, so is creating a mess---one should be careful at one, so that they don't do the other...

[Roland]

Interesting thread on an interesting subject. Don't mean to butt in but you guys seem to know what you're talking about and I need some advice. I am almost to the point of painting my '68. I have a couple of pretty good HVLP gravity guns and a Devilbiss siphon quart conventional gun. I have a 60 gallon, 6 HP compressor which I think will supply enough volume and pressure to do the job.

What I don't have is a paint booth. If I do this job in an enclosed garage and do it one panel at a time - fenders, hood, doors, cab, etc., is there a problem with matching panel to panel? What kind of paint should I use? I have bought Acrylic Enamel paint, reducer and hardener from Rayflex on eBay. I have two gallons of paint and equivalent amounts of reducer and hardener. I bought my primer from O'Rielly's. Would I be better off to scrap this and go with another type paint? Base/clear? Do I have to use the isocyanate hardener? Which would be the easiest to complete to shiny finish, single stage acrylic enamel or base/clear.

Thanks for your help

[piecesparts]

I personally like a base coat/clear coat, because of the finsih work and the effect is smoother. I have no background on the Rayflex paint, but not all paints are the same. This stuff could be like some paints and be very thin and it would take a lot of coats to get it to give a good color, then again it may not be. Also putting a primer of one brand on and then painting over it with another brand, should work, but I would be careful, because the two may interact with each other, try a test panel first.

The painting of panels seperately is not all that bad---as long as you try to do it all in one setting. This way the paint is the same mix and blends well. If you do one at one time and the other at another, there is a chance of getting different shades in your mix.

When you paint in your garage, be sure to ventilate and filter your openings to keep dirt and bugs out. Also wet the floor down to keep the dust on it. Have you got a mask to filter while you paint?

[Roland]

Thanks for the reply. I have a full face mask mask with air supply and the filter cartridges are in the blower unit worn on your belt. I got it because I was afraid of isocyanates in hardener. When you talk of base/clear, are you saying laquer instead of acrylic enamel? If I were to start over buying supplies, what brand would you recommend?
Thanks again

[wolfthing2000]

Okay. So how hard is it to wet sand and buff the Acrylic . Single stage non metalic straight color.?????? How many wet coats to assure enough to polish up????

[65-72 chevytoys]

www.southernpolyurethanes.com has a good article and how to on their website.

[piecesparts]

Base coat/clear coat is an acrylic enamel combination. The clear gives you a finish that you can sand and buff that will retain a gloss finish.

[wolfthing2000]

Question is, can you shoot several coats of the acrylic color coat and then polish that????

[BigSky71]

Originally Posted by wolfthing2000

Question is, can you shoot several coats of the acrylic color coat and then polish that????

Absolutely. Get the paint laid out then decide how much polishing might be required. You can't polish out inadequate body prep, but orange peal and runs and such can be fixed.

I have just finished bodywork and have all my truck body parts in epoxy. It has taken about 18 months to get there, but I just keep telling myself that there is only one real way to learn something, do it!

[dbcox]

try tractor supply they have a good choice of colors for $20 a gallon $9 for hardner. I just painted my baja vw I/H red i looks good im no paint man but for what i use it for it looks ok.

[JAKES 68GMC]

Dbcox, I did the same thing for a VW dunebuggy I have. The guy just sprayed the paint on, didn't even thin it, and it looks really good. It has a nice shine to it for cheapo paint. Good quality, too.

[Longhorn Man]

the GMC wasn't rattle can...well, a door and tailgate was... but the photo you are recalling was just a real old repaint, single stage, and well well worn.

[piecesparts]

Acrylic enamel color paint can be sprayed and buffed to a lustrious shine. However colors like red (especially red) and silver will haze over or fade in the sun light. With a clear coat that is not the story. The clear finish will be exposed to the elements, where the color is sealed under it. That is why a clear coat finish will look better longer.

As I stated above there are all brands available. Around here the cheaper stuff is the R&M enamels and Omni. There are shops that use that quite a bit. However, there is more time in layering it in to get good coverage. The better shops here, use PPG, Sikkens, Valspar, and Dupont; with PPG being the predominant brand. I have a truck that is painted a Dupont White with a blue pearl mixed into the clear coat and it is one tough paint job. It stands up well to the elements, like Bird crap, bugs, sun, and snow. I am still most partial to the PPG for ease of painting.

[oldgold70c10]

I used Rustoleum to paint my truck. It is just a temporary job to keep the body covered while I work on other areas, and give me an idea of wether I like the color or not. I used the Rustoleum auto primer first, and then Rustoleum "American Classics" sailbot blue and white. Stuff is $3.44 a can at Lowes and really did good.
It took 2 cans of the white to do the top of the cab, 3 1/2 cans for the bed and gate, and 4 cans for the rest. It really looks good until you get up close, and it has been beading the water off when it rains. I even cleaned up the inside of the bed and brush painted it with a can and a half (I think 1/2 gallon cans) of flat black. The truck looks 100% better and should hold up until I am ready for permanent paint.

[JAKES 68GMC]

Any pics of the paint job, oldgold?

[Hook'em]

I use 3M Finnesse-it II Finishing Material and a buffer/polisher (you can get a basic buffer for under $30 from Wal-mart, harbor freight, or an auto parts store). Click Here for a link to the product with a little explanation of how it works and how to apply it. You will follow it with some wax. I found this stuff when I was having hail damage repaired. They guy used this stuff on the hood and it amazed me how much better the paint could look. I then bought it and an Porter Cable high speed polisher and did my entire truck.

The chalkiness is most likely oxydation that you would need to remove prior to painting anyway. You might be able to live with your current paint job if it polished up a bit.

[JAKES 68GMC]

Ok, just an update. I found some old car polish in the shop. it said you were supposed to mix it with water and soap to wash your car, but I didn't. I put some on a rag and rubbed it into my hood. The color deepened almost instantly. It wasn't really glossy when I stopped rubbing it in, but the green was just so much darker.

But, theres a twist. I got looking at my trucks paint fairly close over the past couple of days, and I think I should repaint in anyway. I need new cab corners, a ditch side lower fender cup, and holes welded up in my doors and cowl. If I have all that work done, there is no way I'll get new paint to match Plus, there are quite a few small bubbles in the lower part of the rear 1/4's and scattered amongst the truck. There are also a few spots where the paint is chipped. (which were painted over with a brush and house paint )

Just thought I would give you guys an update. I think the paint would buff out though and be glossy again.

[Longhorn Man]

Ditch side... never heard the term.
Paint it up man. At a minimum, you'll learn a butt load.

[piecesparts]

"Ditch Side"??? Are you referring to the side of the road or did you just get the wrong letter on the first word? (remember we all need a giggle at times) Just trying to get a handle on this before I go to deep...

[JAKES 68GMC]

Huh, must be a Maine saying. Up here, the term "ditch side" means the side of the vehicle closest to the ditch. Specifically known as the passenger side.

I had the same idea, Andy. I figured if I painted it, I'd learn a lot and maybe have some fun, too. It wouldn't cost me that much, the bodywork would cost the most.