Where could i find a Turbo that attaches on to your muffler...

[shortbed70]

how hard would it be to retro fit on into a 65 chevy pickup? I don't care about lag as I don't race the truck but I want the turbo sound and power.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by pharcydekm

Agreed on the longer pipe more chance for leaks sid eof it. But... on the boost once the pressure is there it is there. In my mind it would be like an air hose connected to an air compressor if it is 100psi 2" from the compressor it is going to be 100psi 10' from the compressor.

Let me try to explain my theory of a long intake. The turbo can make say 10 lb of boost. You are trying to create this boost as fast as possible (to eliminate lag), so if your intake plumbing is 3” ID pipe 10’ long it will take more volume of air to pressurize it to 10lb than if it were 1” ID. If the pipe is smaller, then the boost will increase faster.

Your air compressor theory~ yes, it’s 100 psi but no volume. If it’s all about pressure only then we could run compressed air in a tank & a 3/8in line to our intake.

I’m not trying to knock this turbo, just voicing my opinion/concern. I’m sure they have it figured out to make it efficient as possible; I think the lag is going to be huge.
This depends on pipe size (I’m not sure what the intake pipe size is).
I do agree it would get cooler air which is a good thing. Also the problem mentioned with water would be an issue, but on a truck we could plumb the intake filter though the bed of the truck (and shorten the intake as far as that goes).
s/t

[Senator350]

OK.
I actually HAVE a remote mounted turbo on one of my cars.
(it's on my '93 Mazda 626... It's HIGHLY modified, including an imported high compression motor, and custom one-off racing parts)

AND i actually have a '70 Chevy pickup. SO, i think i might be the only one here qualified to give advice. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but you always have to <i>consider the source</i>.

(A great line to remember when posting the "Pro's" of the remote mount turbo, taken directly from STS web site. )

Before i start dishing information, i need to correct your question... you ask about a turbo to put ON your muffler. When you remote mount a turbo, you actually REMOVE your muffler, and put the turbo where your muffler was.

typically, the most modern turbos have been made to all but eliminate turbo lag... it's virtually a thing of the past. In 99% of remote mount turbo setups, you will use the exact same turbo that would come in an underhood-kit for your vehicle. Your engines displacement dictates which turbo to use, not where you're putting the turbo.

You should really have headers, a high-flow cat converter, and mandrel bent exhaust piping before you start thinking about remote mounting... if you have restrictions before the turbo, your performance is going to SUFFER.
once you have a high-flow exhaust like that, you just get a weld-on flange, in the correct inner diameter, with the correct bolting pattern for your turbo.
simply welding on that flange, where your muffler used to be, in the right position to place your turbo, intake filter, and return plumbing in the right place will take some precise measuring.

After you have the turbo mounted, you need a mandrel bent intake plumbed back under the hood. This is actually where some headache comes into play... IF you have room to run intake plumbing... AND you relocated your battery out of the engine bay... you probably had room to run a turbo under the hood... and you could have spared yourself the headache of the steps i'm about to outline.

you have spent, so far
$ headers, $ cat converter, $ mandrel bent exhaust, $ flange, $ mandrel bent intake, $ turbo, $welding and installation (?)

more fun steps, once you have the turbo where you want it...

1. Plumbing your turbo's oil supply AND return. keep in mind, if this hose ever get's hurt, you're going to pay DEARLY. This means you have to get the right fittings, and either drill a supply in your pan, running a sump, or using a sandwich filter with provisions for an oil cooler.

2. Plan on how you are going to USE that new forced air... you are going to need more fuel... and you are going to want turbo-cams. So, now you are going to need to upgrade your injectors and fuel pump, or re-jet your carb, pressurize your fuel bowls, and seal your carburetor.
Either way you supply your fuel, you need to spend some SERIOUS time tuning your air/fuel ratio... if you don't, plan on melting your engine.

you just bought
$ either injectors or carb modifications, $ fuel pump, $ AFPR (Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator), $ Cams, $ TUNING, $ TUNING, $TUNING

3. Now, you just made a very nice working Forced Induction system! Congratulations... but... ummmm.... what about your engine internals? Is your compression ratio OK? (8:1-9:1 is considered safe) How old are those small block rods?!?!? Is your SBC already burning oil?!?!

Bottom line... If you want to run FI safely, you need to build your engine specifically for that purpose. THEN and ONLY then should you think about "bolting a turbo onto your muffler".

OK...
The Pro's:

1. <font color=red>allows forced induction when there is no room under the hood</font>

2. no need for an intercooler, because the intake piping length dispells close to as much heat as a top or side mount intercooler.

3. Stealth / sleeper appeal


The Con's:

1. No support from a company supplying a kit

2. Room for intake piping

3. LOUD sound.. displeasing to a lot of people


<font color=blue><B><Center>Basically, there's NO REASON for doing this, other than NO room under the hood... and like i said, if you are going to run intake piping, you could probably relocate your battery and have room for a kit that comes with lots of R&D, company support, and a return policy should things not fit.<p>

it's a long, long long long long, road. fare the well, brave lad.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by Senator350

OK.
I actually HAVE a remote mounted turbo on one of my cars.
(it's on my '93 Mazda 626... It's HIGHLY modified, including an imported high compression motor, and custom one-off racing parts)

AND i actually have a '70 Chevy pickup. SO, i think i might be the only one here qualified to give advice. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but you always have to <i>consider the source</i>.

(A great line to remember when posting the "Pro's" of the remote mount turbo, taken directly from STS web site. )

Before i start dishing information, i need to correct your question... you ask about a turbo to put ON your muffler. When you remote mount a turbo, you actually REMOVE your muffler, and put the turbo where your muffler was.

typically, the most modern turbos have been made to all but eliminate turbo lag... it's virtually a thing of the past. In 99% of remote mount turbo setups, you will use the exact same turbo that would come in an underhood-kit for your vehicle. Your engines displacement dictates which turbo to use, not where you're putting the turbo.

You should really have headers, a high-flow cat converter, and mandrel bent exhaust piping before you start thinking about remote mounting... if you have restrictions before the turbo, your performance is going to SUFFER.
once you have a high-flow exhaust like that, you just get a weld-on flange, in the correct inner diameter, with the correct bolting pattern for your turbo.
simply welding on that flange, where your muffler used to be, in the right position to place your turbo, intake filter, and return plumbing in the right place will take some precise measuring.

After you have the turbo mounted, you need a mandrel bent intake plumbed back under the hood. This is actually where some headache comes into play... IF you have room to run intake plumbing... AND you relocated your battery out of the engine bay... you probably had room to run a turbo under the hood... and you could have spared yourself the headache of the steps i'm about to outline.

you have spent, so far
$ headers, $ cat converter, $ mandrel bent exhaust, $ flange, $ mandrel bent intake, $ turbo, $welding and installation (?)

more fun steps, once you have the turbo where you want it...

1. Plumbing your turbo's oil supply AND return. keep in mind, if this hose ever get's hurt, you're going to pay DEARLY. This means you have to get the right fittings, and either drill a supply in your pan, running a sump, or using a sandwich filter with provisions for an oil cooler.

2. Plan on how you are going to USE that new forced air... you are going to need more fuel... and you are going to want turbo-cams. So, now you are going to need to upgrade your injectors and fuel pump, or re-jet your carb, pressurize your fuel bowls, and seal your carburetor.
Either way you supply your fuel, you need to spend some SERIOUS time tuning your air/fuel ratio... if you don't, plan on melting your engine.

you just bought
$ either injectors or carb modifications, $ fuel pump, $ AFPR (Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator), $ Cams, $ TUNING, $ TUNING, $TUNING

3. Now, you just made a very nice working Forced Induction system! Congratulations... but... ummmm.... what about your engine internals? Is your compression ratio OK? (8:1-9:1 is considered safe) How old are those small block rods?!?!? Is your SBC already burning oil?!?!

Bottom line... If you want to run FI safely, you need to build your engine specifically for that purpose. THEN and ONLY then should you think about "bolting a turbo onto your muffler".

OK...
The Pro's:

1. <font color=red>allows forced induction when there is no room under the hood</font>

2. no need for an intercooler, because the intake piping length dispells close to as much heat as a top or side mount intercooler.

3. Stealth / sleeper appeal


The Con's:

1. No support from a company supplying a kit

2. Room for intake piping

3. LOUD sound.. displeasing to a lot of people


<font color=blue><B><Center>Basically, there's NO REASON for doing this, other than NO room under the hood... and like i said, if you are going to run intake piping, you could probably relocate your battery and have room for a kit that comes with lots of R&D, company support, and a return policy should things not fit.<p>

it's a long, long long long long, road. fare the well, brave lad.

Thanks for the explanation on this subject, it always good to hear from someone that has one. I didn’t even consider the oil line (DUH). Has water been an issue? What about snow or mud? I live in the mountains and have a small amount of dirt roads which I don’t think it will like very well. My concern is tearing off the air filter and sucking in crap.
Thanks,
s/t

[Senator350]

I actually removed my spare tire well. then i welded the speaker holes closed, and also put in a flat floor for the trunk and a new firewall flush against the back of the seat. the flat floor of the trunk has a cut-out for the intake filter to actually point up, and come INTO the trunk... i removed some of the factory plastic, so air could easily enter the trunk campartment through the void inside the rear quarter panel. Then, i put my fuel cell, and my optima red-top up against the new rear-firewall.

So, my intake is actually more isolated than a ram-air, or tru cold-air, under the hood... and cetrainly more isolated than that intake in the exhaust cut-out in the picture on the first page.

My 626 is lowered, and i had a true cold-air intake for a couple years (air filter almost at the ground, under the engine) and i removed all of the plastic under the front of the car. the intake filter was litterally inches off the ground, and i NEVER had any problems with water, snow, or dirt in my intake.. So, i wouldn't worry about it at all if was a foot or more off the ground, assuming your truck is stock height or lifted. And i wouldn't worry about it if your truck was lowered either... you just have to be conscious of driving through deep puddles, and avoid Wide Open Throttle under those conditions where you might worry. If you're not under WOT than the engine will draw it's intake charge from the path of least resistance, which means it won't really suck water up.

If you think about how much force is required to pull a 2 or 3" column of water, you'll realize that it's really almost impossible to hydrolock your motor by drawing in a lot of water. If your intake is pointed down, so that water can fall down and out, then the suction will pull air in... not large amounts of water.

And dirt and snow should be easily taken care of by your air-filter. if you buy a nice K&N, then your filter is cleanable. Use a blow-dryer to heat up the rubber mouth of the intake filter to get it on the intake pipe, otherwise it will be a stiff PITA.