Which one's the better engine?

[IAFF2407]

have you looked at Jasper engines, I believe the price is cheaper (could be wrong) 2 year warranty. remanufactured, not rebuilt.

Al.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 70GMCer

Just had my 350 block machined for 383. Included cleaned, 30 overbore and deck honed, notched for clearance and cam bearings installed for $418.00

The Scat 383 kit costs me $679.00 (crank, rods, pistons & rings, bearings, balancer/flywheel) All new Scat parts with Sealed Power pistons, (9.5 compression).

I already have Dart heads i'll be using. I plan on spending around $1200.00 when done. That's me putting it together. Get books and read up. It's pretty simple really. I have the short block already together.

Sounds like a great engine - think you'll get 400 FWHP? I'd have to think you'd be REAL close, depending on the cam.

[70rs/ss]

I'd say closer to 500 at the flywheel and probably 400ish at the tires. 383's are the way to go. If you are rebuilding a 350, there is no reason not to spend a little extra dough and go 383.

[Rust Buster]

Wow! I'm getting some great information here and I really appreciate all the help. Saving money is definitely a big bonus as I can then put the extra to the NV4500 and FI.

I guess I am just a bit timid because the tolerances in building engines see, so tight to me that I do not want to mess it up. I am definitely willi0ng to do it myself, just want to make sure I know what I am doing.

So my stock '72 350 block will be a good base to build a 383 out of?

Anyone know any good machine shops in VA?

[jgrh64]

The Smeding has dart heads - much better. Whoever does it make sure the block is magnafluxed, aligned honed decked and balanced this is usually extra but makes for a long lasting motor that you can beat on and not fail. you do not need 4 bolt main caps or exotic rods even a cast crank is fine unless you plan on reving above 7000 rpm or blower or nitrous motor.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

I'd say closer to 500 at the flywheel and probably 400ish at the tires. 383's are the way to go. If you are rebuilding a 350, there is no reason not to spend a little extra dough and go 383.

Hmmm....must be a helluva cam and a GREAT pair of heads.

about the 383...but the only caveat is the cost of the crank if you have a servicable one.

[70rs/ss]

A cast crank is like $250 ish for a stroker, it'll cost about $75-100 for a grind and polish. Dart heads flow alot of air. Carcraft did a stock 6.0 with a carb intake and a little cam and pulled down over 500 hp at the crank. Today 500 is like yesterdays, 300. It is a very reasonable achievement. Good heads and the correct cam/intake carb combo and 500 hp at the crank ought to be pretty easy. A mild 383 should do well over 400 hp at the crank. Remember at the crank and the tires are considerably different.

[PanelDeland]

For what it's worth,if you can find a 400 Block the extra cubes will net you a few more HP for about the same $$.It will also tame a cam a bit to have a little more cubes( a barely streetable cam in a 350 will be pretty mild in a 400).The 383 is a great torque motor and should do the job though.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by Rust Buster

Wow! I'm getting some great information here and I really appreciate all the help. Saving money is definitely a big bonus as I can then put the extra to the NV4500 and FI.

I guess I am just a bit timid because the tolerances in building engines see, so tight to me that I do not want to mess it up. I am definitely willi0ng to do it myself, just want to make sure I know what I am doing.

So my stock '72 350 block will be a good base to build a 383 out of?

Anyone know any good machine shops in VA?

Keep in mind that people have been rebuilding engines for a long time - and the tolerances are the job of the machine shop. Putting engines together is something anyone can do with a little care and patience.

Your stock '72 block is a perfect foundation for a solid 383. It's likely a "high nickel, high tin" '010 block which is a highly sought after block.

[Rust Buster]

Is there anyway to tell for sure if my block is high nickel/tin? Something I can decode of the ID stamp?

[jgrh64]

I think it's behind the timing cover should be a 010 and a 020

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

A cast crank is like $250 ish for a stroker, it'll cost about $75-100 for a grind and polish. Dart heads flow alot of air. Carcraft did a stock 6.0 with a carb intake and a little cam and pulled down over 500 hp at the crank. Today 500 is like yesterdays, 300. It is a very reasonable achievement. Good heads and the correct cam/intake carb combo and 500 hp at the crank ought to be pretty easy. A mild 383 should do well over 400 hp at the crank. Remember at the crank and the tires are considerably different.

The CarCraft engine was an L92 GEN III - totally different situation and not a 383. 500 FWHP for a 383 is a pretty significant achievement and requires a fairly significant investment in a GEN I. 1 HP/CID takes a bit more than a "mild" engine. 18% is the generally accepted estimate for automatic transmission drivetrain loss.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by jgrh64

I think it's behind the timing cover should be a 010 and a 020

Yep; it's typically on the back of the block as well under the bellhousing. Pretty common for truck and high-performance engines of the period. If the casting number is 3970010 then you've got a pretty strong possibility.

Regardless, if the 350 is in and running it's likely suitable for a rebuild - and a 383.

[streetstar]

Totally agree with everyone else -- stroker crank from SCAT is under $300 - but the kit is the best way to go --- Edelbrock Performer heads are anothe g-note, but you could get some cast iron Vortec heads for about $600. Add a good ignition system, headers and the 650-750 carb of your choice and you have a turnkey moor for less than 3 bills

Plus, gaining experience in the process can be fun

[70rs/ss]

Well aware the 6.0 is a different monster, but it is completely stock form and if I'm not mistaken, the 5.7 350 and 6.0 aren't too far off in displacement as a matter of fact a 383 is very close to 6.0 in displacement. But still a 383 with good Dart heads and a mid sized cam and 500hp is not unobtainable (at the flywheel) I will bet 450 at the tires, as a matter of fact read the skip white article referenced in this thread (ebay link) they throw down over 450hp at the crank with a very mild cammed 383 with some no-name aluminum heads (the heads cost $700) and there cast cranked 383 kit @ 9:1 compression. Big cam, 10:1 or 11:1 compression (with aluminum heads this is OK) a 750 carb, good intake and now 500 hp is a slam dunk and high 500's possibly tip into the 600's is possible. Where is the desktop dyno guy. This is an easy deal to put together and not rocket science, and the DD should prove the 500hp number fairly easily.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Well aware the 6.0 is a different monster, but it is completely stock form and if I'm not mistaken, the 5.7 350 and 6.0 aren't too far off in displacement as a matter of fact a 383 is very close to 6.0 in displacement. But still a 383 with good Dart heads and a mid sized cam and 500hp is not unobtainable (at the flywheel) I will bet 450 at the tires, as a matter of fact read the skip white article referenced in this thread (ebay link) they throw down over 450hp at the crank with a very mild cammed 383 with some no-name aluminum heads (the heads cost $700) and there cast cranked 383 kit @ 9:1 compression. Big cam, 10:1 or 11:1 compression (with aluminum heads this is OK) a 750 carb, good intake and now 500 hp is a slam dunk and high 500's possibly tip into the 600's is possible. Where is the desktop dyno guy. This is an easy deal to put together and not rocket science, and the DD should prove the 500hp number fairly easily.

GEN I and GEN III are completely different. If you want to shoot me your cam and head specs, I'd be happy to DD. Don't disagree that 500 FHPW is possible - but IMHO it's a heck of a lot more expensive than you suggest.

We can agree to disagree

[eedgell]

I have built many strokers, its not that difficult really, but why dont you look for a good machine shop in your area, and visit with them about options. You could probably provide them your block and just have them build it for around $3000.00, I am guessing, and you can make more decisions about the build as it happens. Just a thought. Might be much less $'s than I stated too!!

[PrinsGMC]

Build your own, its not too dificult. That way you can build it exactly how you want it and you can be proud that you didnt get it out of a catalog.