New toy to play with 63 SWB GMC!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

I'm here too man....I am a no sleeper too...I do my best thinking when I am in bed staring into the darkness !!!

I have been on for a while....since 1:30.....

Working on a new diff cover/combo watts link center mount for my customers 14-bolt in his '67.....

Should come out pretty nice.

One-Piecers would be nice...

How about a regulator system design out of an Acura....the rear windows??

Their is no reason that I can see to have it tilt like the acura. It should have enough room but will need to go to power windows I think because of the rearward slide required to make it all work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[ChiefRocka]

I just thought mabey if you needed more space, the window would start it's downward travel, then tilt forwards into the open space of the door.

But, if there's room, then it's much easier.

My truck is at my shop, and I'm at home, so I can't visualize.


Once you do it...many will follow !!!

Later...

[Frizzle Fry]

No kits are offered for 60-63. You are correct that the A-Pillar dictates the drop angle, but you have to account for the lower-rear corner of the window. It's into the window channel 1/2"-3/4" So this is the line we have to deal with (as shown).

[ChiefRocka]

I knew some tilting would be in order.

[Rokcrln]

Hey it was early when I paint shopped that I know what you both mean I just hope it will not be needed because as soon as it starts to tilt you will get a loose window and that would drive me nuts A small change in shape to the bottom of the B post on the door might be inline as well as the glass would cut forward 1/2" below the window felt. This would save a bit of room as it dropped. Let me try this Paint one more time!

Ok so yellow is the point ot travel.
Red is the one piece glass
Green is the electric regulator
Black is the posible corner infill.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well I took my drivers door off today to get to the creases caused by the door getting poped open in reverse as it hit a post. So I had the full crease all the way down the door and was not sure if I could get it all out. I also mocked up a one piece window and you guys are right and it will not fit and I have my doubts if it can be done. The window will make contact at only about 4" of drop leaving 12 more to go.
I cut the inside door panel part way out inorder to geet at the crease and it came out well. I had to heat shrink one spot but that was about it and I will fine tune it when I replace the dor bottoms.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Frizzle Fry]

Seems like 90% of the 60-66's got that door crease at some point along the line. Weak retainers...

[Dinos63]

kevin, what do you thing about the 64-66 trucks and one piece windows kit?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Dinos63

kevin, do what do you thing about the 64-66 trucks and on piece windows kit?

You sound like me after a few days of no sleep Try again.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Frizzle Fry]

Dinonics to english translation:

Kevin, what do you think about the 64-66 truck one piece window kits?

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Dinonics to english translation:

Kevin, what do you think about the 64-66 truck one piece window kits?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Dinonics to english translation:

Kevin, what do you think about the 64-66 truck one piece window kits?

Damb you is one of dem smert fellers arnt ya!


Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Dinos63]

clear is my favorite color, what can i say i am hooked on phonics, ok kevin what do you think...... about the 64-65 single pieces window, I think i got that right,

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Dinos63

clear is my favorite color, what can i say i am hooked on phonics, ok kevin what do you think...... about the 64-65 single pieces window, I think i got that right,

I can't help you on this one! The 63 is my first of this style and I have never been a big fan of one piece windows. I think I had my fill back with all my VW bugs in the 80's. The bigest problem that I have come across with the ones I have delt with is once you start to lower the windows they get real loose. Our window scrapers just don't do a good job of holding then. On my Low Buck truck I opted to rebuild all the vent windows, regulators and I was very happy with the end results. I was online last night with the LMC catalog and tacked up $2500 in misc parts to rebuild my 63 better then new and that did include all new windows for front, back, side to side and vents! You may want to put a post up just on this subject!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Frizzle Fry]

Looks like I'll be endevoring on the one-piece windows solo... It can be done!

So I see you're going with C4 susp. Can you give us the highlights of your build plan?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Looks like I'll be endevoring on the one-piece windows solo... It can be done!

I was looking at a 89 chevy today and yes it does rotate forwaed a bit but I don't know if it will be enough and/or if the front of the window will clear the lower front corner of the window rail were the bottom of the vent window is now. I am not giving up on the thought of it but their may be a reason why it is not available.
So I see you're going with C4 susp. Can you give us the highlights of your build plan?

Well I have not fully developed the full build yet but I will try and run down what I have so far.

What else would you put up front but a DropMember C4 from PorterBuilt. The rear suspension is still up in the air. But I will be using the Dana 60 that is in the truck now. It will get new axels with a matching C4 lug patern and turned down hats so I can use C4 rear brakes in it as well. Tire/Rim combo looks like it will be 20's front with 245/30/20's and 22's out back with 285/35/22's When layed out it will put the top of the tire about 1" below the top of bed rail. Motor is not yet decided but I am leaning twards a twin turbo 6.0L with equaly built AOD to push things along.
This truck will have beable to lay frame/body but be set up to really handle as well. Just up the road from me a ways is Thunder Hill race wall and I hope to have this set up to hit a few open track days as well have it suited for Sacramento RaceWays 1/4 mile. So performance and saftey will be a big thing on this build.

Body wise we are shooting for a very clean subtle look (subtle for tucking 22's that is) while still having a few mods. Drip rails are gone and as I said before I will be doung the radius trick that Frizzle Fry has shown us. I am thinking about doing Suicide doors as I have wanted to do a set for along time but just have never comited to it. I will have a few slight mods to the bed as well, like a real tail gate latch with bear claw latches and an interior handle to keep the out side clean and smooth. I would also like to find some tail lights that better fill the rear corners better. I have always felt chevy just thru in some lef over lights to get the truck done, they really do not look like they belong their. Paint will be like the teal and white pic I posted up at the begining with a nice deep clear job that will be sanded and polished so the bugs can't stick to it very well

Interior will be clean with two power bucket seats with warmers in them, center jump seat/ consol. Full gauges as needed and some form of an intigrated cage for the seats, belts but it will not be visable from the out side with out looking for it. The sterio will be heard but not seen but I have not decided if I will mount the deck in the dash along with the Vintage A/C controller or not. If I do I would like a flip down door that would cover it up and look like a radio delete cover.

Well this is most of what I have thought about so far, as you can tell I will just be winging it as I go. Start date will ba around January or so and I hope to have everything ready to go before I start to minimize the build time. Nate from PorterBuilt street rods will be sending out the suspension parts but everything else will be done in house here at my shop while working around customer builds.


Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

So were to start? I am trying to decide were to start this project. Should I start with the frame or the body? The frame would be nice because then as the body gets done I can bolt it on and be done with that step. But the body will be cheap to do (doing it al my self and patch panels are cheap) and my frame/drivetrain will be anything but cheap. When I pull the cab off I will be making a Tip & Flip for the 60-66's so I will have a safe place for the cab and the bed is already on a dolly. So I could due the body and keep it out of the way but that new paint would still be sitting around for some time before the frame is done. What have you guys found to be the best way for you and why? I hope to have about 7K to start this build off with by next week and want to start spending it on parts for one of the two steps I have mentioned.
Thanks for the input.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Iron-Butt]

I like the GMC in the mag. the two tone paint scheme looks good with that grill.

[Frizzle Fry]

You gonna have a set of racing wheels/tires for the track (like 17"-19")?
I like the frame-drivetrain-body approach I have yet to have the opportunity to do it that way

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

You gonna have a set of racing wheels/tires for the track (like 17"-19")?
I like the frame-drivetrain-body approach I have yet to have the opportunity to do it that way

Yeh I was thinking it over last night and this morning and you are right. I need to do the frame first then drivetrain before the body since what I have planned will require body mods. If all goes well with the sale of Slow Build I will be intouch with Nate next week and start planning out a parts order!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Captainfab]

I just got around to reading this thread and thought I say you got a smokin deal on this GMC Kevin. Sounds like you've got some badass plans for her...I'll definitely be watching this build....I'm kinda partial to '63's anyway. About the rear end being a 60....A lot of GMC's I've seen originally came with 44's. I'm thinking that's what you've got, since it does look original. Below the cover there will be numbers cast in the webbing that will tell you. I just can't remember if it's on the drivers or pass side.

About the 1 piece windows....that's something I've been wanting to do for a long time as well. I know it can be done. I've seen a '62 and a few '55-'59's that had 1 piece windows. I just haven't been able to find out how any of those were done.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

About the rear end being a 60....A lot of GMC's I've seen originally came with 44's. I'm thinking that's what you've got, since it does look original. Below the cover there will be numbers cast in the webbing that will tell you.

I have a few 44's and this one is larger but I will double check it before I spend any money on it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

About the 1 piece windows....that's something I've been wanting to do for a long time as well. I know it can be done. I've seen a '62 and a few '55-'59's that had 1 piece windows. I just haven't been able to find out how any of those were done.

There are kits available for the 55-59 since they have a different geometry and can move up and down without tilting. The only 60-63's I've ever seen with one-piece were pics only and I'm not convinced the windows were movable.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

There are kits available for the 55-59 since they have a different geometry and can move up and down without tilting. The only 60-63's I've ever seen with one-piece were pics only and I'm not convinced the windows were movable.

Well heck I can build a kit for that. Lets see, glass, silicone, hack saw. Yep no problem I will drop it in the mail in the morning! Hope you don't smoke

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Frizzle Fry]

Ed-Zackery