have i lost my mind????

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by PA-IndianRider

I have seen the "clamps" you are using in the Eastwood catalog.... they appear to work pretty good????? Worth the money???? Chopping a top as soon as the winter weather is over with in PA.

Yes and No! They are worth the money just not the money that eastwoods charges. I bought a set from them for $30-50 or so and that was for a small pkg of them. I then found them in a Harbor frieght/ Post tools type place for $7 & 12 per pkg. I bought every set they had! They are not as nice as the Eastwoods ones but they do everything the same. Look around for the bargin ones and get alot of them.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[PA-IndianRider]

Thanks Kevin... always appreciate at "tip" or "word" of advice... epsecially when saving a few $$$ bucks is possible... more $$$ money to spend on kooler things... thanks again

[BigSky71]

Originally Posted by BB70c10

bigsky71,nice truck.if mine turns out half as nice as yours id be happy.if thats your first build you should be proud man.hell, if thats your 100th build you should be proud,that truck is sweet!!!

Thanks man, much appreciated. Your truck will turn out great, just takes committment and patience!

[BigSky71]

Originally Posted by BB70c10

bigsky71,nice truck.if mine turns out half as nice as yours id be happy.if thats your first build you should be proud man.hell, if thats your 100th build you should be proud,that truck is sweet!!!

Thanks man, much appreciated. Your truck will turn out great, just takes committment and patience!

[BB70c10]

indianrider,rokcrln would know better than me.i read his thread and he mentioned the clamps from harbor freight.i went to the one in raleigh and found them for $4.99 for a set of 8.eastwood wanted $30.00 for 4 or something like that.i bought all 4 sets they had.seemed to work fine for me but i havent used any other brands

can somebody tell me how you,re doing the quote box with"originally posted by" when responding to specific comments.kinda new at this.never mind,i figured it out.

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by slammed1

Rokcrln(Kevin),68sidestep,Hart_Rod(Rob),GringoLoco among many others and to just name a few have some great threads with pictures and info.

i've been reading some of their builds.i stay on this site.just not enough time to read everything i want to.my wife calls me a geek for being on here so much, because i used to get on her about being on myspace all the time,now i've got her beat.i told her this is different because im actually learning something,but i'll accept being a "truck" geek any day of the week.

[BB70c10]

quick question for anybody who might know?i was reading in "low buck build",i believe,that shortening a long bed wont fool anybody who knows what to look for(something about the rear fender).im not trying to fool anyone,but i do have to replace the rear portion of the left bedside fender due to damage.can i use the replacement panel for a short bed to do the repair and do the same panel on the right side,and if it will work is it worth the effort.also would i have to use the entire fender panel-right now it looks like i can buy just the small portion i need for about $20.00.if i had to replace both fender panels it would cost me about $180.00 or more.just want to weigh price,extra work, and how much better it would look before i commit one way or the other.im gonna have to replace it pretty soon.any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by BB70c10

...my wife calls me a geek for being on here so much, because i used to get on her about being on myspace all the time...

That's funny. My ol' lady calls this forum 'TruckSpace'...

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by BB70c10

if i had to replace both fender panels it would cost me about $180.00 or more.just want to weigh price,extra work, and how much better it would look before i commit one way or the other.im gonna have to replace it pretty soon.any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm sure most of the guys on here are wondering what I am about to ask you. With the amount of welding, grinding, filling, sanding, priming (and possible money spending on new patch panels) have you considered finding a junk-yard short-bed?

There are dozens of those out there and if you look, one can be found. And even if it has slight to medium damage, I can't imagine that it would be more work than what you are about to embark on. You might spend $400.00-$800.00 on a decent bed and you will only be a couple of hundred more than what you are needing to spend on patch panels. (Not to mention the amount of filler and sandpaper you will need to buy)

If you decide to continue down this road. Invest in a good 8-inch mug hawg(hog) and inline sander. Your shoulder and arms will thank you. Also use kitty-hair or any good quality fiberglass reinforced body filler on your first few coats. It will grab better and not shrink as much as regular bondo.

Also as regards bondo... don't buy Bondo (tm). I know its a little cheaper per gallon, but with as much filler as you will be putting on your bed sides, use Rage or Platinum. They run $18-35 per gallon but you will be much happier during and after the body work. They sand MUCH easier than bondo and hold up much better. Use 36-40 grit paper until you are perfectly happy with the way everything feels. THEN use a good poly glazing filler over everything. Then block with 80-120 grit. You will level your bedside much faster and it will be straighter than trying to use finer grits. A few coats of Slick Sand over the poly will make it even nicer. In my post I describe what Slick Sand is. Link posted.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=257530

Hope this helps.

D

[BigSky71]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

If you decide to continue down this road. Invest in a good 8-inch mug hawg(hog) and inline sander. Your shoulder and arms will thank you.

Also as regards bondo... don't buy Bondo (tm). I know its a little cheaper per gallon, but with as much filler as you will be putting on your bed sides, use Rage or Platinum.
D

I agree, the inline sander will help a lot. I didn't buy mine until I got to fixing my hood, wish I had bought it early in my build. I got a basic one from my auto paint store for about $130, not the best one out there by far, but much better than doing it all by hand.

Also I tried a few different fillers and like Rage the best, it does sand easier.

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

I'm sure most of the guys on here are wondering what I am about to ask you. With the amount of welding, grinding, filling, sanding, priming (and possible money spending on new patch panels) have you considered finding a junk-yard short-bed?


D

i know thats probably the best and most sensible way to go about it.as a matter of fact,before we actually started cutting,my buddies friend called and found out what we were doing and told me that he had an entire bed he would sell me.but,i've always wanted to learn how to do the things i've seen on here and on tv.this may be my only chance to ever try this,and if it turns out nice,i can say i did it with my own two hands-not to mention what i'll learn in the process.the way i see it,the only way to learn is to try it regardless of the results.but with all the great advice you guys are giving me,i'd almost have to try to screw it up.heck,i'm going to have to print out my own build posts to use as a guide for my own build-thats kinda ironic.i really appreciate all the advice you guys have given me so far and if you've read the entire build ,you know that the whole reason for posting this build is to show first time progress using basically info. found on here(absolutely no body work knowledge of my own).in fact,the advice you gave me,i'll print it out and basically attempt to follow it step by step(knowing that you probably only scratched the surface of whats involved) and post how it turned out.by the time the truck is done,i may have to change the name of this build to PROJECT:the truck that you guys helped me not totally screw up

[BB70c10]

i got a chance to work on the truck today.didnt get to work on the bed like i had hoped.my buddy didnt make it out to help and he has the air compressor and welder(the shop im using is my grandads-i have to carry all my tools with me).was planning on removing cab because of the extra help,but two of the guys didnt show so me and my buddy paul decided to go at it alone.while i was waiting on him,i removed the steering shaft and i read on here a tip to remove the windshield.so i cut a piece of garden hose i found in the shop and pushed it under the upper molding to hold it open.it worked just as i had read.i couldnt remember what he said to do on the side but the garden hose was too big.so i found an old lawnmower v belt and cut it to size and used that to hold the molding out on both sides of the window(from inside the cab on top and side molding).with a little help from and screw driver and piece of cardboard(to keep the screwdriver from damaging the pillar) the thing actually popped out.it only took about 20 min. to do and it actually worked.not that i doubted his method, but i figured you would still have to have done it once or twice for it to be that easy.just goes to show how smart the guys are on this site.take my advise and listen and learn what these guys have to tell you,it works.the next thing to conquer was the cab.i didnt have a cherry picker,so i decided to mount straps to the cab mount holes and try to hang if from the rafters in the shop.before i actually tried to hang it,i decided to climg up and hang from the rafters my self to see if it would support it.i heard some unusual noises,so i scratched that idea(i was dumb enough to think about,but not actually try it).my next idea was to jack the cab up and support on 4 by 4's and used long 2 by 6's as a ramp and slide the cab off to the side.now im not saying this is the best idea in the world,but i was determined to get the cab off today and it actually worked.i made sure the ramps stayed on the frame and not the floor sheet metal and inched it off slowly, checking the boards every inch the cab moved.this took about 45 min. to do.for one,i didnt want to kill my buddy,and two,i didnt want to damage the cab.i worked on it for a total of 4 hours(most of it trying to figure out how i was going to do it),doing what should have only taken about an hour and a half(between the cab and windshield) if it was done the right way.at the end of the day,im just glad the cab is off so i can start cutting the frame.i forgot and left my "cheat sheets" at home, so i had no idea where to mark the frame for cutting.hopefully i can start cutting the frame pretty soon,so i can post some pictures of that circus act too.i also need to clean up the cuts for the bed and get that tacked together before i actually cut the frame.heres a few pictures of the high caliber/professional work that took place today(and by the way,my buddy in the pictures did survive today,but he did tell me i take pictures at the most inconvenient times-dont know what he means,but i know you guys like pictures)

[BB70c10]

here's a few more

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by slammed1

I prefer the rage body filler also,and use glaze filler afterwards to fill in the small pin holes/imperfections if any. All rough in body work needs done with 36/60/80 grit to get your rough shapes close,and then taper off to 120-220 after you get your shape.

thanks for the advise,i'll definately take my time if i get the courage up to try it.the more i read from you guys the more confident i feel.i still need to practice more,but atleast i'm getting a better idea of what i need to do.you mentioned rage body filler and glaze filler.richard 8971 recommended it also.where do you get all the body and paint supplies you use.do you have to order it or is there a company that maybe local in north carolina i can buy it from.maybe a dumb question,but i have no idea?

[slammed1]

Where was your friend when I replaced my cab the first time?? I removed my 72 A/C cab which was a little too rusty and damaged and replaced it with a 71 non A/C cab by myself in our backyard....the grass made a softer place for them to be positioned. I like you also used pieces of wood to do the swap, which made it much easier.....I was barely 20 when I did that,now 37 with 3 herniated discs in my back I use tools/machinery now to do jobs like that.

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by slammed1

Where was your friend when I replaced my cab the first time?? I removed my 72 A/C cab which was a little too rusty and damaged and replaced it with a 71 non A/C cab by myself in our backyard....the grass made a softer place for them to be positioned. I like you also used pieces of wood to do the swap, which made it much easier.....I was barely 20 when I did that,now 37 with 3 herniated discs in my back I use tools/machinery now to do jobs like that.

he was probably recovering from the last time i needed his help.he's getting alot harder to get help out of,i just cant figure out why?i work on hondas for a living and stay bent over under hoods all day.im 31 years old and my backs started giving me problems already.i cant say i feel your pain, but i know where youre coming from.i guess my desire to get the job done sometimes overrides how dumb it is to do it that way,so i'll probably be right there with one day(or my buddy will,the camera i took the picture with aint as heavy as it looks-i've learned to lift the camera with my knees and not my back,should've passed that on to him-that cant be good on his back)

[89 crew]

The answer to your original question is Yes, you like every one else on here has lost their mind and fallen in love with old iron. It is lucky for you that you came here where there is a support group! We help everyone that comes learn new ways to express their insanity. The only condition is that if you figure a new way, you have to share with us!

[slammed1]

True he has lost his mind,but came to the right place it seems to correct his ways.

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

If you decide to continue down this road. Invest in a good 8-inch mug hawg(hog) and inline sander. Your shoulder and arms will thank you. Also use kitty-hair or any good quality fiberglass reinforced body filler on your first few coats. It will grab better and not shrink as much as regular bondo.

D

are these the sanders your talking about?is the mud hawg the same thing as a DA sander

http://www.nationaldetroit.com/tools...px?model=900DE
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91773

thanks for the link to your page about slick sand.i was actually reading your build last night,i think it was,and meant to bookmark it.but my wife woke up and asked me if i knew what time it was,so i forgot too before i shut the computer down.that truck is nice and looks like you do awesome work.its seeing pictures like that make me cut my bed and frame apart instead of buying one.it sucks being able to do mechanic work,but dont know if a mud hawg is the same thing as a DA.what you do looks more rewarding than trying to figure out why somebodys car makes a faint rattling noise,only when going over bumps,downhill,in reverse,turning left after driving for 50 miles SOMETIMES.oh yeah,and they're in the customer lounge waiting on it.not saying you dont have to deal with stuff like that,but its gotta feel good to step back when your trucks done and think,man,i did that.i guess i just want to see what that feels like.

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by 89 crew

The answer to your original question is Yes, you like every one else on here has lost their mind and fallen in love with old iron. It is lucky for you that you came here where there is a support group! We help everyone that comes learn new ways to express their insanity. The only condition is that if you figure a new way, you have to share with us!

i knew i felt at home here.and dont worry,if i ever figure a new way that i didnt see on here(and its actually a good new way,and not a bad one-im way better at those new ways),as soon as i pick myself up off the floor,finish doing the roger rabbit,cabbage patch,and every other cheesey old dance i do when im excited,you all will be the first to know.i go through posts trying to find questions i know the answer to but i end up learning something every time.i saw a title one time that said tire question or something like that,and i thought,man,if he wants to know how to check tire pressure ive got this one.turns out it was a tire size question so i was stumped.it would be cool to be able to help somebody else out,and the longer i work on my truck,maybe the better chance i'll have of doing that.

[BB70c10]

finally got to cut my frame in half this weekend. that was by far the most work yet. first thing that i had to do was cut off rear body mount and front bed mount. used a four inch grinder to grind down the rivets.i ground the head down just low enough to see the circle seperation between the rivet shaft and the body mount,so i wouldnt damage the cab mount(has to be reused).i didnt take as much care with the forward most bed mount b/c i wouldnt be reusing it.i also had to grind the two rivets on the exhaust hanger on drivers side down b/c it was in the way of where i had to cut.id never used a grinder before,so it took almost two hours just to remove five mounts.before i removed the cab mounts,i used them to make my middle mark where the frame was going to be cut in half.the mount was 6 1/2" wide so i measured 16 1/2"inches over and marked.then when i removed the mounts,and measured twelve inches over on each side of that mark.i used a sketch found on here for a step cut,that if i had to do again,i would follow more closely.the sketch i used is from glock35s how to shorten a lwb under truck faqs,but instead of using the rear holes of the mount,i used the edge of the mount.that put my marks too close to the rear cross member and reguired extra grinding(about a 1/4") on the cross member,and on the frame up front where it dips down.save your self some time and follow the sketch to the tee.heres the mounts before and after







once the mounts were removed, i started taping of the marks for the rest of the cuts.as i was taping the marks,i made sure to mark the tape to know which side of the line to cut on.i also taped and marked where not to cut so i wouldnt get too cut happy.i used a carpenters square clamped to the frame to mark the the line halfway down the frame.it was exactly 24" long and gave me a good edge to make the mark.to make my lines down the side of the frame.i used two carpenter squares.i laid one on top of the frame,hanging
over the edge in a v shape(b/c the frame is curved on the edge and i wanted my measurements to be as acurate as possible),and the other one butted up against it to mark the vertical lines.i used the same method to mark 3" down the frame for the middle marks.

[BB70c10]

heres a few pics of everything taped and marked befroe i started cutting

[Rokcrln]

This sure looks like somthing I would go and try! Main differance is my back is already shot so I gots me one of dem fancy cab bed lift thinger ma-giggers to do the work for me But seriously watch the back, you will need it for years to come if you are lucky! Plus with as many times as you will have that cab and bed off you really need a safer way to do it no matter what it is.
As far as body work just give it a shot, read articals on line, get DVDs to watch and learn heck I still pull mine out before I get started on a new paint project just for a refresher and I learn somthing everytime. Last week I painted my doors and fenders and they turned out ok but had tons of orange peel. Watched the DVD's and look at todays paint job right out of the gun, no sanding or anything! Give it a shot you can do it! The last pic is the reflection in the hood!!! Notice everything is in reverse.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[BB70c10]

after marking everthing the real fun began.i dont own a plasma cutter ,so i used my trusty old sawzall with a 14 tpi metal blade and cut the frame in half.then i used electrical tape to mark the ends where the cuts needed to be rounded off.b/c i didnt have a plasma cutter,i had to make my cuts short with the sawzall,and use the grinder to finish the rounded corners.that sucked,but it was the only way i could fiqure out how to do it with the tools i had.after making all the cuts,i pulled it all together to see how it looked.i still have some grinding to do in the corners before everything will line up for welding,but i ran out of time.the pictures of the frame back together are in no way the finished product,i just had to see it together before i left.the gaps are way off because the back half is higher than the front half using the jack stands.when i go back to clean up all the cuts,ill use stands in the back and frt,and two jacks in the middle of both halves to line everything up.next time ill have pictures of how good or bad they really are,but im hoping a little grinding and alot of welding will help cover any mistakes i made.we'll see

[BB70c10]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

This sure looks like somthing I would go and try! Main differance is my back is already shot so I gots me one of dem fancy cab bed lift thinger ma-giggers to do the work for me But seriously watch the back, you will need it for years to come if you are lucky! Plus with as many times as you will have that cab and bed off you really need a safer way to do it no matter what it is.
As far as body work just give it a shot, read articals on line, get DVDs to watch and learn heck I still pull mine out before I get started on a new paint project just for a refresher and I learn somthing everytime. Last week I painted my doors and fenders and they turned out ok but had tons of orange peel. Watched the DVD's and look at todays paint job right out of the gun, no sanding or anything! Give it a shot you can do it! The last pic is the reflection in the hood!!! Notice everything is in reverse.

Kevin
LFD inc.

i looked at your cab and bed lift a while back.it looks great,but i didnt think i could make it myself.after taking the cab off i knew theres no way i could do it like that everytime,especially after paint.im definatly going to order one before i have to move it again(i could use the practice welding anyway).do you know the apprx. cost of materials to build it?that paint looks awesome,by the way.i dont expect mine to look no ways near that good right out of the gun,so im reading as much as i can about wet sanding as well.im considering buying martinsrs video set on paint and body.i've printed out and have been reading his autobody 101 how to,but i think id learn better if i actually see it done.as a matter of fact,one of our dealerships in the company has a paint and bodyshop.when i get closer to paint, im going to ask if i can work in the paint and body shop on my days off,un paid,just to learn and get hands on experience.sometimes knowledge is worth way more than money to me.my money is usually gone in two weeks after getting paid,knowledge i usually keep for at least a month or two, and if im lucky,the rest of my life.any recommendations on other good sources for paint and body videos and how to?