Cross Member Drop?

[68burb]

Originally Posted by HotRodYJ

No need to, it's plenty strong. The tube is 1.315" OD, only about 5" long and a wall thickness of .180" (3/16"). Not much chance of it going anywhere.

so 4" of weld is gonna hold that motor still??

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by 68burb

so 4" of weld is gonna hold that motor still??

YES. People commonly make motor mounts like this on street rods. It will be fine.

Nice work so far on the build by the way!

[Slmd92DIME]

Originally Posted by HotRodYJ

Yes these are factory 66 motor mounts bolted to the motor straight from Advance Auto. These old style mounts have the rubber element on the motor and the frame side of the mount is just a steel bracket with a hole in it for a single bolt.

I went to advance last night and they didnt have these? DId you have to order them out of one of there special parts mags? All they had for under 66 motor mounts was like some antiseeze. Just wondering how you got them to come up on their computer? Thanks

[HotRodYJ]

Originally Posted by 68burb

so 4" of weld is gonna hold that motor still??

Yes, I believe it will. And I preffer "Hillbilly Engineering" For those with a keen eye, that 7/16" bolt will be grade 8 when it goes back together for the final time. These are grade 2 bolts I had on hand and used for the mock up.

Originally Posted by Slmd92DIME

I went to advance last night and they didnt have these? DId you have to order them out of one of there special parts mags? All they had for under 66 motor mounts was like some antiseeze. Just wondering how you got them to come up on their computer? Thanks

Part No. 2282 at Advance. I had to supply them with their own part number I got from their website because it wasn't in their computer system at the store. The first store I stopped at on my way home told me they couldn't even order a mount for a 66 Chevy truck when actually every store in my area has them in stock on the shelf for $8.95 each. They just didn't know it.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 68burb

so 4" of weld is gonna hold that motor still??

Is your only contribution to this thread going to be to call his work ghetto? Please consider what you say "before" posting.

[Slmd92DIME]

Part No. 2282 at Advance. I had to supply them with their own part number I got from their website because it wasn't in their computer system at the store. The first store I stopped at on my way home told me they couldn't even order a mount for a 66 Chevy truck when actually every store in my area has them in stock on the shelf for $8.95 each. They just didn't know it.[/QUOTE]
Thanks a lot I really appreicate it

Originally Posted by 68burb

so 4" of weld is gonna hold that motor still??

When i looked at the mounts I didnt see anywhere near 4 inches of weld. I saw some pretty damn good welds though.

Looks good. Very cool project.

[HotRodYJ]

The circumference of the tube OD is just over 4", therefore there is about four linear inchs of weld on each end of the tube. And I might add the tubes were properly prepped and beveled so there is much more weld there than you can actually see. FULL penitration is a must for strengh . And thank you very much for the compliment.

[Slmd92DIME]

Just got them tonight. Thanks for the help.

Where are some new pics at anyways?

[bedsled71]

some people just like to rain on other peoples parade... wouldnt it take like over 40,000 lbs of force to break it anyways?... im looking forward to seeing this tandom axle set-up.. keep the pics coming

[68burb]

Originally Posted by HotRodYJ

The circumference of the tube OD is just over 4", therefore there is about four linear inchs of weld on each end of the tube. And I might add the tubes were properly prepped and beveled so there is much more weld there than you can actually see. FULL penitration is a must for strengh . And thank you very much for the compliment.

I'm not trying to rain on anyones parade. I'm also doing a chopped member on my burb but if it was my rig i wouldn't trust just that little bit holding it all together. I'v have bone stock 6cyl's shear bolts in factory mounts. I'm going with DIY4X's set up. using a poly bushing in a factory style set up but all 1/4" plate. Even a simply gusset would double your strength on that mount.

[HotRodYJ]

You are absolutley correct it would be easy to beef it up, but I really don't think I'll have any issue with it. If it starts to show signs of stress cracks, then I'll weld it back up and add some reinforcmenet. I've never sheared a motor mount bolt, but I have ripped alot of motor mounts apart. I'd like to keep this one looking clean and simple so I'd rather not clutter it up with a gusset until it's proven that the extra stregth is actually needed. I really think it will be fine just like it is.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[N2TRUX]

68burb- Thanks for returning to the conversation with positive input. It's greatly appreciated..

[Captainfab]

Nice job on your fab work You've got some cool and inovative ideas....I'll be subscribing to this thread. Hope you can keep us up to date on your progress.

[HotRodYJ]

Few more pics for you guys who've been asking for them although not alot new to show right now.

Clearanced the firewall for header clearance...


I cut the lower bag cups down to 1.5" thanks to your recommendations. This puts the frame 2" of the ground with only the cross member drop and bags. stock splindles, unmodified arms and 28" tire. plenty low enough for me. I want to be able to roll it with no air just in case.




And that's about it. I'm working today on the trans tunnel and then hopefully mounting the steering column and rack mounting later on this weekend if I can find the time. Transmission is in it here also, I used a 4x4 crossmemeber and fliped it upside down. Added some 2" spacers and drilled a couple of holes and it was all done. Here's where she stands today...

[Slmd92DIME]

Looks good buddy. I reallly like the front rack set up

[Dinos63]

Here is my first pancake cross member i reinstalled back on a old sub i just got.this was before the dropmember and kinda what got it started by nate. i have the first dropmember ever in my panel,and also have one in my 66 and 78 both tech article were on my trucks.the dropmember,can't beat it ,the best ride.but my pancake crossmember gets its to lay out also, and use's the same steering box ,i didn't go as extreme as you, so i didn't have the fire wall issues, i also step my control arms to help with the drop and the camber .the pancake crossmber been done a ton and its cheap to do..you have added a twist (the rack) nice work dino

[duane67c-10]

Sweet!!!

[HotRodYJ]

My Dad came by today and was looking the truck over. Guess what's the first thing he says about it? "I think I'd add a gusset or two to those motor mounts." You know, I've heard that more than once someplace before so I've decided to go ahead and add some gussets. I still believe it would be okay, but easier to do now than later on after the truck hits the road. So you guys have convinced me, when I blow it all apart to make it all pretty, I will be adding some gussets.

I did get a little tunnel work done Friday. On the front tunnel, the passenger side and up over the top at the firewall is done. About half of the diver side is done. Another hour of work and the front tunnel will be finished. The rear tunnel will wait till the forward rear axle is in place and the t-case is in to be sure of any clearance surprises.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by HotRodYJ

My Dad came by today and was looking the truck over. Guess what's the first thing he says about it? "I think I'd add a gusset or two to those motor mounts." You know, I've heard that more than once someplace before so I've decided to go ahead and add some gussets. I still believe it would be okay, but easier to do now than later on after the truck hits the road. So you guys have convinced me, when I blow it all apart to make it all pretty, I will be adding some gussets.

I did get a little tunnel work done Friday. On the front tunnel, the passenger side and up over the top at the firewall is done. About half of the diver side is done. Another hour of work and the front tunnel will be finished. The rear tunnel will wait till the forward rear axle is in place and the t-case is in to be sure of any clearance surprises.

So you gave in to ol' pops, huh ??

Your build is coming along really nice !!! Looks good !!

[usernamessuck]

Right or wrong metal is cheap. If you can make it look how you like then a part is probably better over rather than under built. I'm with you though. I think it would have been strong enough without gussets.

[Slmd92DIME]

Looks good. How much does the tranny tunnel have to be raised? I think I did mine 5.5. With the 4 inch Z and 1 inch dropped cab mounts

[HotRodYJ]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

So you gave in to ol' pops, huh ??

Your build is coming along really nice !!! Looks good !!

Your never to old to accept advice from others, especially your Dad. I'll be 40 this year and Dad just turned 62 this week. No matter how you slice it, he still has more experience than I do and I still value his opinion...although he's not always right.

Originally Posted by Slmd92DIME

Looks good. How much does the tranny tunnel have to be raised? I think I did mine 5.5. With the 4 inch Z and 1 inch dropped cab mounts

Since everything else moved 5" I raised the tunnel 5" as well.

[higgiec10]

keep it going looks good

[ChiefRocka]

[QUOTE=HotRodYJ;2550985]Your never to old to accept advice from others, especially your Dad. I'll be 40 this year and Dad just turned 62 this week. No matter how you slice it, he still has more experience than I do and I still value his opinion...although he's not always right.



You better believe it !!!

[protrash64]

Nice work.....looks cool to me!!! You need to hurry up 'cuz I want to see a pic with smoke off all 4 back tires!!!