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Old 03-23-2008, 09:04 PM   #26
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Re: which one would be best?

it took a while because i had a full time job, side job, and school. As far as cost, i went alot further than you would need to go to get your first one running. All in all i had 8k in it. but thats with a new crate engine, a new 3 speed transmission ( yes i spent 600 on a new 3 speed) complete break job, complete front end linkage, with moog parts. all bolts changed out to stainless steel. new carb and intake. you get the picture. basically you dont need to spend that much to get one running.
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:12 PM   #27
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Re: which one would be best?

yeah im planning on getting cam,intake,carb and maybe a couple more stuff but thats mostly all i plan on doing for the engine until i get it looking good
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:22 PM   #28
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Re: which one would be best?

well i think im deciding on the 67 im going to talk to my dad tonight
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:26 PM   #29
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Re: which one would be best?

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well i think im deciding on the 67 im going to talk to my dad tonight
I love the 67/68 front end myself, good choice.
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:42 PM   #30
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Re: which one would be best?

Me too. Does anybody have any good ideas for a paint job it cant be to hard because i think me and my dad might do it on our own and its going to be our first one. Im thinking either flat black to give a hotrod kind of look or like a midnight blue. I dont know it would really help if you guys could give me some tips on what would look really cool.
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:06 AM   #31
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Thumbs up Re: which one would be best?

Quote:
Originally Posted by allen123 View Post
yeah im planning on getting cam,intake,carb and maybe a couple more stuff but thats mostly all i plan on doing for the engine until i get it looking good
With those mods it will run like a raped ape. Stick with a dual plane intake with a medimun rise. As far as carbs the elderbrock afb style carb worked well for my pickup. The A/F primary screws are mounted in a easy location to reach and outa the box they run great. The funnest part of the truck is the build imop. Post some pics when you pull the trigger.....!!!!!>>>>>
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:12 AM   #32
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Re: which one would be best?

alright i might see if we can go take another look at it tomorrow and if i do get it i'll post some more pics i might start a thread in the project place

But how much do you think it would cost for the intake,carb, and cam
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:21 AM   #33
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Re: which one would be best?

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alright i might see if we can go take another look at it tomorrow and if i do get it i'll post some more pics i might start a thread in the project place

But how much do you think it would cost for the intake,carb, and cam
I suggest go elderbrock everything their a top notch company
Intake $150
Can and lifters $200
Carb $180
Gasket set $50
Keep the oil changed often Non synthetic. You probally be able to find better prices espically in a package deal. Check jegs summit even checkers autoparts.
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:28 AM   #34
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Re: which one would be best?

alright well im sponsored by amsoil and they have oil for trucks but i havent heard anything about if its good or not because i could get it for a pretty good price

and what kind of hp increase do you think i would get with those


and do you think these would be good im going to be using it as a daily driver and i still want some power

Cam and lifter kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

Intake
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

Carb
dont know were the best place would be

Or do you know any kits that are kind of cheap but good
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Last edited by allen123; 03-24-2008 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:41 AM   #35
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Re: which one would be best?

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alright well im sponsored by amsoil and they have oil for trucks but i havent heard anything about if its good or not because i could get it for a pretty good price

and what kind of hp increase do you think i would get with those
Synthetic oil isn't bad I just cant justify the price. These motors were born and raised on mineral oil. With that said I ran in my 5.0 novi2k mustang (520rwhp) was synthetic mobile 1. But noticed no differance. I just changed more often.
As far as hp# you should have a 300 hp motor. But it will be so streetable. Stay away form cams with ultra lift and duration. You'll probally want to shift around 5500rpm. And it will smoke up the tires real good!
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:49 AM   #36
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Re: which one would be best?

awesome i cant wait to get to work i wont have the fastest truck at school but that is plenty of power for me i think the fastest is a 83 chevy its got around 400hp its pretty nice
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Old 03-24-2008, 02:01 AM   #37
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Re: which one would be best?

Use Rotella T diesel truck motor, it has additives that help flat tappet cams, that you can't get in normal car oil anymore because when oil gets into the combustion chamber the additives burn and increase emissions, so the gov't reduced it, but it doesn't apply to diesel trucks because they need the additives. Dupli-color has it's Paint Shop paint that is like 10 bucks a quart or somthing cheap like that, it is a lacquer based and needs no mixing or reducing, you just strain and shoot.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:17 AM   #38
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Re: which one would be best?

that black one has something going for it that the others don't... the seller *claims* it to be a daily driver. Even though the 305 in there (5.0liter) isn't anyone's first choice... it'll probably knock down decent MPG, probably has a roller cam, and probably has less miles on it (the engine) than the other two.
The gray one... probably just needs a jump start. No crap it wont start after sitting all winter.
The 67... it's sat for 22 years... it isn't ready to be a driver. that sucker will be needing brakes, all rubber lines, every fluid, u-joints... all kinds of stuff.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:20 AM   #39
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Re: which one would be best?

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Originally Posted by ed2552 View Post
Use Rotella T diesel truck motor, it has additives that help flat tappet cams, that you can't get in normal car oil anymore because when oil gets into the combustion chamber the additives burn and increase emissions, so the gov't reduced it, but it doesn't apply to diesel trucks because they need the additives. Dupli-color has it's Paint Shop paint that is like 10 bucks a quart or somthing cheap like that, it is a lacquer based and needs no mixing or reducing, you just strain and shoot.
Ed... the rotella has less zink in it now than car oils. Been like that for the past year or so now.
The auto makers pushed the feds into doing it.
The oil didn't cvause emissions, it caused soot, which clogged the cats on newer vehicles.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:33 AM   #40
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Re: which one would be best?

from SoCal. I'm 17 now and have owned my truck since I was 15. Not trying to put you down, but if I was you, I would find a truck that gets better gas mileage because at this rate gas will be $4.50 a gallon at the end of the year. But don't get me wrong, I love my truck, just not as a daily driver. Just my $0.02. Good luck on what you decide on.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:48 AM   #41
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Re: which one would be best?

I won't get into which one is best, that has to be your and your Dad's call, taking into account what everyone else has said.

But, I'm 20, have been into trucks since highschool and earlier, and daily drive a '69 GMC to college everyday. It's my work horse, hot rod...everything.

I bought it May of '07 for $100.



Now, remember. This is a Wisconsin truck, something you boys down south don't have much experience with. Salt on the roads for up to 6 months of the year does some damage to the sheet metal. So, I spent the summer whacking and welding, to the best of my ability, followed by some mediocre body work, and covered it up with tractor paint. Yes, tractor paint. It's cheap. It's durable. And as long as it looks decent for a couple years, I am totally alright right it, despite what others may say.

This is what she looks like now. Mind you, this is after it hit a tree on Dec. 24, and I rushed to do emergency body work and frame straightening. A month later, plates were on it, and I was driving it.







She's not the prettiest, but she's mine. All in all, I have around $1,000 stuck into it all, that includes the priginal price of the truck, plus paint and body work materials, and liscense and registration for the most part.

Oh, and that 3 on the tree? An absolute blast to drive, even more so when the linkage is good and tight. Even with 3.07 gears, which turns a lovely 2,000 rpms at 55 mph, she can smoke and chirp 'em just fine. I'm currently pulling 15 mpg, but thats with in town and highway driving. So, mileage isn't real bad, because it could be worse.

Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to make clear that a '67-72 can be a very dependable daily driver, for a low price if you're willing to sacrafice a few creature comforts. Would I do anything differently? No, not at all. My Dad and I had a good time building it once, hitting a tree with it, build it again, and this spring/summer I'm planning another tear down, with a new engine and some more body work, with his help of course.

Bottom line is, if you like it, and can afford it, go for it.
Have fun, you're only in high school once.

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Old 03-24-2008, 08:40 AM   #42
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Re: which one would be best?

Thanks alot samwise you really helped with my decision

and lonhorn man my dad said that on the 67 the spedo said it had around 44k
and how much do you think it would cost to replace the brakes,fluids,u-joints and all that stuff. just a estimate
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:09 AM   #43
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Re: which one would be best?

master cylinder 30-40 bucks
slave cylinder 20 bucks each youll need 4
shoes are about 30 bucks a set youll need 2
break hoses about 50 bucks for the set
break fluid 5 bucks
good oil 30 bucks
oil filter 10 bucks
u joints are 15 bucks

you shouldnt spend more than 200-300 for all that, as long as you do the work yourself
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:39 PM   #44
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Re: which one would be best?

ok i found the old ad for the 1970 swb and it had alot better description of the truck and here the description

Im more looking for a trade of some sort...my wife doesn't like the truck, it is loud yes(flowmaster) and needs paint for sure,new floor pan/rockers...has power steering, good brakes, new radiator, 350 engine, 3-speed, nice wheels and new tires...let me know what you have for trade, something a little newer that doesn't need worked on
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:41 AM   #45
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Re: which one would be best?

Another oklahoma high school kid here. I have also been searching craigslist and i thought i would post a couple more trucks you might not have seen. Not all of these are 67-72 but most sound like good deals. There are a couple 67-72s that don't have pics but maybe you can email to get more pics.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/612369358.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/611486870.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/610884379.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/609736357.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/609158105.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/607041391.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/605593444.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/603775919.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/603336046.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/601700529.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/601007135.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/585714456.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/580956035.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/576891204.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/575250887.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/567015018.html

and here is a posting with more pics of the black 72
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/car/597818971.html

Sorry for such a long post

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Old 03-25-2008, 01:51 AM   #46
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Re: which one would be best?

remember, the speedos can flip over, it could be 144000, 244000, etc. you can't tell like on a new one.
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Old 03-25-2008, 03:49 AM   #47
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Re: which one would be best?

well... i got some bad news. I went back to go look at the 67 and when i got there it was sold. I had it all planned out to. Oh well and i also went and looked at the 70 swb and its missing the tailgate, the rockers aren't installed and it wasn't in to great of shape.

But i found this truck and its still for sale. It was painted about 6 months ago, engine and transmission were rebuilt they have around 14,000 miles on them, he said there wasn't any rust and the body is straight.

Heres the link
http://stillwater.craigslist.org/car/581173435.html


And thanks alot thebrown83 for taking the time to put all of those links
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:10 AM   #48
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Re: which one would be best?

I would look in to the last truck you posted
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:14 AM   #49
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Re: which one would be best?

I think me and my dad might go look at it sometime this week if he isn't to busy
I think it would look really really good with a 4/6 drop and cragar ss rims im not sure what size though idk 18's would be to big
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:14 AM   #50
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Re: which one would be best?

Looks like the body line on the passenger side fender and door are off by 1/2". Look over any repaint closely, especially fresh ones

You can also use a low power fridge magnet on suspect areas, ( if it doesn't stick bondo time) just so you know what you're getting in to. For 3 gees you should beable to get a nice truck wait it out.
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