My project 55 begins

[B17CRX]

Not a whole lot to report, but I did pull the engine and transmission from the chassis and I have started the scrubing, scraping, and brushing of the frame to prepare it for a coating of rust bullet and then some black paint to give my truck a nice clean base to build up from.




-Joel

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by B17CRX

Not a whole lot to report, but I did pull the engine and transmission from the chassis and I have started the scrubing, scraping, and brushing of the frame to prepare it for a coating of rust bullet and then some black paint to give my truck a nice clean base to build up from.




-Joel

I got a box full of hookers the other day.... I might need your help getting the th400 in the back of the minivan so i can take it to the trans shop... let me know what day is gooood.

[B17CRX]

I coated the frame with Rust Bullet and then top-coated it with some glossy black paint, the overall effect is pretty good although I would suggest to anyone thinking of using the Rust Bullet to spray it if possible instead of brushing it on. Unlike the POR15 which self levels and looks sharp this stuff is next to impossible to keep brush strokes out of it. That being said it is a cinch to use, no real prep required, although I did go a bit further than the directions said to and cleaned the frame pretty good with de-greasers and sanding/brushing. I think it will be a good base for my cruiser.



-Joel

[Kim57]

Your frame looks really nice. I can't wait untill I get to that stage.
Kim

[samdjr74]

Hey Joel,

Quick question, where did you find the plans for the frame on casters you built? I need to make one for my 56 in the near future.

Thanks,
Sam

[B17CRX]

Originally Posted by samdjr74

Hey Joel,

Quick question, where did you find the plans for the frame on casters you built? I need to make one for my 56 in the near future.

Thanks,
Sam

No plans, I just made one. Its really not hard just measure the bottom of the cab from side to side and then how high you want it. make a box, reinforce the top and bottom and then mount up the casters. I made mine from 2x6" but thats just what I had laying around, you could make it from 2x4 or 2X8. If you want I can post the dimensions of mine if that would help.

-Joel

[samdjr74]

Originally Posted by B17CRX

No plans, I just made one. Its really not hard just measure the bottom of the cab from side to side and then how high you want it. make a box, reinforce the top and bottom and then mount up the casters. I made mine from 2x6" but thats just what I had laying around, you could make it from 2x4 or 2X8. If you want I can post the dimensions of mine if that would help.

-Joel

If you the dimesions handy and can post them that would help out alot!!!

Thanks,
Sam

[B17CRX]

This weekend I came across a good deal on a new source of motivation for my '55. Its a '68 327ci with some Edelbrock goodies and an MSD HEI distributor and wire set.





-Joel

[B17CRX]

Originally Posted by samdjr74

If you the dimesions handy and can post them that would help out alot!!!
Thanks,
Sam

Sam, The first step would be to make the basic frame of your cab dolly, so start with four 2x6 boards. two 48" long and two 24" long. On end nail them together to form a box. It should be 48" x 27" when your done. Now take four 27" 2x6 boards to give the box some strength and a place to bolt up your casters. These you will attach over the ends on the top and bottom of your box frame. Place them on the ends so you can nail into both long sides and one short side. Now your frame should sit about 9" tall. Next attach your casters to the braces you just installed. I went with 5" casters for some extra height (with the mounting bracket it adds 6") So now your cab dolly should be about 15" tall. Lastly you will need to attach two 60" 2x6 to the top of the frame (layed flat) so that they extend 6" over on each end. the Cab will rest nicely on these right between the metal floor gussets ender the steps. The cab will sit 14" off the floor once mounted on the cab dolly leaving plenty of room to work on most of your trouble spots without killing your back. HTH
-Joel

[samdjr74]

Originally Posted by B17CRX

Sam, The first step would be to make the basic frame of your cab dolly, so start with four 2x6 boards. two 48" long and two 24" long. On end nail them together to form a box. It should be 48" x 27" when your done. Now take four 27" 2x6 boards to give the box some strength and a place to bolt up your casters. These you will attach over the ends on the top and bottom of your box frame. Place them on the ends so you can nail into both long sides and one short side. Now your frame should sit about 9" tall. Next attach your casters to the braces you just installed. I went with 5" casters for some extra height (with the mounting bracket it adds 6") So now your cab dolly should be about 15" tall. Lastly you will need to attach two 60" 2x6 to the top of the frame (layed flat) so that they extend 6" over on each end. the Cab will rest nicely on these right between the metal floor gussets ender the steps. The cab will sit 14" off the floor once mounted on the cab dolly leaving plenty of room to work on most of your trouble spots without killing your back. HTH
-Joel

Hi Joel,

Thanks, I might start building this, this weekend.

Thanks,
Sam

[MR2500HD]

Dude.... WHERE did you get that fantastic idea for the cab dolly?!

[B17CRX]

Originally Posted by MR2500HD

Dude.... WHERE did you get that fantastic idea for the cab dolly?!

Hey bro! its about time you started checkin out this site. Are you going to post up some pics of the cameo? Maybe the old chevrolord too, its got a F*rd body but Chevy power!

-Joel

[hammerdog57]

Hey Joel i was wondering if you could take some measurements on your frame of the cab mount locations? I want to build a metal cab dolly that i can mount cab to. I have to replace steps and rockers and cab corners. The measurements that i need are (1) centerline measurement of mounting bolts on front cab mounts. (2) Centerline measurement of mounting bolts on rear cab mounts. (3) centerline measurement of cab mounting bolts from front cab mount to rear cab mount. (4) Measurement of your cabs overall height as it sits on cab dolly. (5) Measurement from bottom of your cabs front cab mount mounting surface to floor. ( trying to build a cab dolly as high as i can and still have cab go thru a 7' garage door. I would get these measurements my self but truck is 30 miles away and i want to have cab dolly built before i go out and bring the cab back to my shop. I have some friends that are going to help lift it and having dolly already built would help a bunch. Any help would be appreciated.

[B17CRX]

So its been awhile since I have been out in the garage, my son was born on 10-10-08 so I have been busy with more important things! Now that we are more settled back in I decided it was time to do some more work on the project. The original ball and socket tie rod ends were very worn and sloppy feeling so out with the old and in with the new.

1st take apart the old ball and socket ends, remove the cotter pin on the ends and then unscrew the cap on the end with a big flat head.


Now we need to remove the ball stud.


grind the end flat to remove the flared end (don't take off too much) and use a 1/8" bit to drill a pilot hole in the center of the stud.


Now use a 1/2" bit and drill down into the stud making sure to stay centered. Use a punch and a BF Hammer to drive out the stud.


Now you can install the new style tie rod ends.


have fun!

[Daniel U]

Originally Posted by B17CRX

So its been awhile since I have been out in the garage, my son was born on 10-10-08 so I have been busy with more important things!

Congratulations on your new addition.

[B17CRX]

Originally Posted by Daniel U

Congratulations on your new addition.

Thanks Daniel!

[56hotrodred]

Originally Posted by Slowlearn

Why no Soda?

I agree. Why no soda? I have just done my entire body and used a combination of sanding & soda and am very happy. Some say soda is easier to get out of the nooks and cranies later than sand and/or pellets. I think they are all good methods. The soda does have to be washed off but prior to that it adds some short-term or longer term protection depending on where you live to flash rusting. Also the soda may not be aggressive enough to get into some of the rusted areas but it surely exposes them.

Your cab condition looks very similar to mine except I have no rust around the windshield.

I love that 327. What is the serial number? What was it originally from? I have a 327 block out of a 64-67 that was also used in the 66 vette and can't wait to get at it. Alas I am a long way from getting the engine done up. Trying to score goodies along the way.

56hotrodred

[B17CRX]

snuck into the garage the other day and worked on my motor. I liked the ram horn manifolds on my 283 so I canabilized those off the old motor and had them sandblasted. I drilled out the old broken studs re-tapped the holes and painted them with high temp black. I also got some chrome pulleys for the crank and water pump. The fan was blue, so I sanded that down and painted it the same chevy orange to match the block. I need to pick up a transmission so I can test fit the whole thing in the frame and get a new trans cross member.

[Funeral]

Man you gotta get some updates on those body repairs posted, I feel like I am flying blindly into this, lol looking good. looking real good, and nice machine work!

[nuke1]

it is looking really good, as for around th windsheild, i am personally going to repair my own, 18gauge metal, bent with a brake andthen a shrinker strecher for the bend and then weld it it.

[B17CRX]

Its been months since I have been able to do anything but walk by my truck in the garage. So yesterday I decided that a pile of parts I have been slowly stacking on my work bench needed to be attached to the truck. So on went the drop axle, new shackles, and some new disc brakes to replace those tired drums.








The drop axle and the brake kit are from Classis Performance Parts, although after the way this transaction was handled I won't be buying anything further from them. Thankfully there are tons of options out there when it comes to parts for our trucks! So hopefully now that the days are getting a tad longer I will be able to sneek into the garage a bit more, but being I have a 3 year old and a 3 month old I have really come to appreciate the small victories!
-Joel

[bensimmons_05]

The clearance between your rotor and bracket looks close. I have the same kit and mine is further apart. Did you have any trouble with the spindle nut going on enough to get the cotter pin through?

[B17CRX]

Originally Posted by bensimmons_05

The clearance between your rotor and bracket looks close. I have the same kit and mine is further apart. Did you have any trouble with the spindle nut going on enough to get the cotter pin through?

The picture looks funny, it has 3/4" clearance between the rotor and the bracket. In the pic it looks like they are almost touching! I did have issues with the castle nut that CPP provided with the kit so I used the old ones that I took off when I removed the drums and they went together perfectly.

-Joel

[bensimmons_05]

Thanks for that info Joel, things are looking great by the way! Can't wait to see more!

[CAL 58 GMC]

Great job so far! How much lower are you now that you have the dropped axle installed?

PS, Congratulations on the new born!!!