Project 69 Stepside

[69_C10]

Good progress made today thanks to some unexpected help. At the end of the day we had the cab removed and placed on my dolly. Additionally, I had the frame oven cleaned and pressure washed. The more I go, the more inspired I get. I'm going to roill the chassis in my garage and continue breaking down until nothing but frame remains. Check out my cab pics....what are your honest opinions? Should I look for a donor or is it repairable?

[69_C10]

And finally, pics of my frame before moving into garage..

[500caddy]

69-c10..........i found the parts you need at www.bowtiebits.com. for about 20 bux. the kit does both sides. spring retainer cups. with bolts.

[500caddy]

69-c1o...as far as the cab.. yes, it can be repaired..almost all of these trucks have the cab corners and rockers replaced. i use a 175hd lincoln mig. just take your time. dont weld to much at once. it will warp. its not as hard as it looks. do the rockers first.

[69_C10]

Originally Posted by 500caddy

69-c10..........i found the parts you need at www.bowtiebits.com. for about 20 bux. the kit does both sides. spring retainer cups. with bolts.

Wow, thanks 500caddy!! I'm placing the order today. I really appreciate it. It's nice to have buddies on here looking out for you.

[500caddy]

almost forgot. try not to buy your body replacement panels from l.m.c. all there other parts are good. im stuck with two new doors that absolutly do not fit.

[69_C10]

Originally Posted by 500caddy

almost forgot. try not to buy your body replacement panels from l.m.c. all there other parts are good. im stuck with two new doors that absolutly do not fit.

THanks again, I do need new doors and was looking at LMC's price as opposed to others but, with your thoughts on LMC, I'll be looking at Yearone or similar for these parts. Did LMC offer to help with taking the doors back and offering new ones to see if they fit? Thanks for all your input. Keep it coming.

[69_C10]

Hey guys, whats the best drop package for these trucks? I don't want to c'notch or bag but, I want her low as possible. What are your suggestions?

[500caddy]

i did a 2 1/2 -4 drop. i got mine from lmc. drop spindles for the front and 4 inch drop coils for the rear. i also did the front disc brake conversion ...but always always always go to ebay before paying catalog price anywhere else. you can save a ton of money...you can build your intire project from ebay. just read everything very carefully before buying.

[500caddy]

im not for sure though how low you can go before c-notching.,,it also depends on tire size. if your useing 22,s or 24,s may have to bag it if you go to low.

[69_C10]

Good progress today...I came home from work, changed clothes, and hit it right away. I removed the front bumper and braces, all steering components, and finally; upper and lower control arms on both sides. I have a huge pile of rusted up steel in the corner of my garage now. Tomorrow I'm going to tear down the rear of the frame differencial, springs, shocks etc.

What are some thoughts from you guys on...
a. Personal use sand blaster, what types, where to get them, pressure settings, type of sand etc?
b. I love the look of the tubular control arms but, I don't like the price. Where is the best place to get those?

Now I have to go wash all of the blood off of my hands from beating on my ball joint seperator. LOL

Oh ya, one other thing, when I removed my left upper control arm, I discovered that one of those studs were cross-threaded. Are those things replaceable? They don't look too fun to replace.

Thanks guys,

Mark Ingle - Asheville, NC

[500caddy]

i bought one of those cheap blasters that has the pipe you stick in the sand. its junk..i broke it over my knee and tossed it..then i bought the big one with the tank and the wheels...more junk..but it wouldnt break over my knee so its just takeing up space in my shop..try this..call all the local sand blasting companies you can find..i found one in houston and took him my frame, cross member all the (a) arms and the two back rear co ntrol arms..it was a hundren bux and took him 45 mins...best money i ever spent..trust me on this..before i tried blasting it i spent over a hundred on wire wheels and crap like that..

[500caddy]

oh..i beleive those studs are replaceable..ill look through my catalogs tonight..

[69_C10]

Originally Posted by 500caddy

oh..i beleive those studs are replaceable..ill look through my catalogs tonight..

You are a huge help!! Just the sandblaster I was looking at is $500 so, $100 would be a steal. I'll look through the sandblaster companies tomorrow and see what I can see.

Thanks 500caddy!!

[500caddy]

im still trying to fiqure out how to put pics in the thread...about to give up..ha

[69_C10]

Originally Posted by 500caddy

im still trying to fiqure out how to put pics in the thread...about to give up..ha

When you reply with the quote feature, click on the paper clip icon for attachments. It will bring up dialogue boxes to upload photos. There you can browse to your phots and upload them IF they under the allowed size. That works for me anyway.

[500caddy]

thanks ..ill try that...

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by 69_C10

Hey guys, whats the best drop package for these trucks? I don't want to c'notch or bag but, I want her low as possible. What are your suggestions?

Mark, IMO.... check out ECE (Early Classic Enterprises). They offer some of the best parts and customer service around. I have started (and technically finished) the install of a 4.5/6 ECE kit with disc brake upgrade, and retained the 6-lug setup. Check out my build thread in my signature for some pictures of the process. We have finished up the install, I just haven't had enough time to post the pics of the front.

4.5/6 is about as low as you can go without adding a bolt-in C-notch, while still being able to run a larger dia. wheel/tire combo.

Good luck with the build!

[69_C10]

I found a guy to perform my media blasting on my frame and components, all for 150 - 200 bucks!! I was going to buy a blaster and do it myself but; how can I not jump at that price which included primer. I'm finally on the way back up with my truck YES!!!!! The bad part is, the guy is pretty booked up, about 4 weeks out :-( Oh well, I can clean the shop up in the meantime and buy new parts. I'll post pics when I go pick the frame back up.


Anyone know if the stud that holds the upper control arm on can be replaced or repaired? I found a cross-threaded stud when I attempted to remove the arm. I don't see a bolt listed on LMC, Yearone, Classic Industries or Bow Tie Bits. HELP!!

THanks Guys,
Mark Ingle
Asheville, NC

When is the next truck show local to the southeast?

[69_C10]

Ok friends, I am to the point of investing some serious money in my truck coming from the ground up. I want to partner with companies that offer SUPERB customer service. I don't mind paying a little more to get excellent customer service and be treated with respect. I'll pose this question to you guys who have "been there, done that." Which suppliers are the best to deal with? Also, I want quality parts as well, goes without saying.

Thanks guys, I greatly value your opinions and input.

Mark Ingle - Asheville, NC

[mkhutch]

I think you have to look at certain companies for certain parts. The ones I dealt with and had good results:

Air Ride: Air Ride Technologies
Static Drops: Early Classic
Stock Part Replacement: LMC/ GMC Pauls
Brakes/Drivetrain, etc: CPP
Body Panels: Tri-Pro

I know a lot of people have issues with LMC and CPP, but they were good to me

[500caddy]

Trusting vendors. I used lmc for the most part at the begining..they sent my hood and rearview mirror to a guy in new mexico.. He was calling me for his parts.. I never got his parts, or mine. They resent my order to the body shop i was useing at the time. Anyway..my point is..there parts are ok but there shipping sucks.,,my drop kit finaly made it to me with the boxs completly distroyed/ parts were ok, but shipping sucked..then i buy two new doors and they dont fit..i tried it all to make them work. I put the factory doors back on it.. (anyone need two doors?) lmc parts are not bad,,but dont buy the body replacement parts. And well,,,,the shipping sucks..

[Sinister]

Classic Heartbeat, GMC Paul's, Classic Parts. I only order from LMC as a last resort.

[gcburdic]

Hey Mark....

Looks like you got your hands full with this one....but don't let it discourage you....nothing I've seen so far that can't be repaired!!!
Thius site is a wealth of knowledge...so do your research and get going....Lots of trusted vendors on this board too...don't let price be the only governing thing....customer service will go a LONG way!!!....Keep us updated on your build with pics.....we likey pics!!!LOL

[my67chevytruck]

Well I will add this, i ordered my sheetmetal replacement from LMC, and they were Triplus parts. As far as being able to bolt up After market doors and have them fit like OEM, that is not going to happen. Most aftermarket parts will need to be sliced/diced, reformed etc to fit.

Truck is looking good, best of luck with your build.

Heath