Rust Removal by Electrolysis

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

rickf used bakingsoda . See post #4. This why I used baking soda. I know that bakingsoda is less powerful than soda ash, but it should still work. My ratios may just be off.

I been running my setup for about 4 hour now (runnig the reversed polarity). Lots of rust has been blown off, but new rust is forming on the formerly clean surfaces. Still the parts are cleaner than before.

My bad.
I didn't reread the entire thread.

I read through it all when it was new, but not this time.
And the other procedure that I saw was after riveted1's original; And I just happened to remember the washing soda.

Have yourself a great weekend.

[jorgensensc]

I don't think your mesh is working correctly as the (anode). When I do this I use a piece of scrap steel and it always bubbles at the scrap steel. Try it with a peice of scrap steel in the corner. The stainless might be messing with something.
Shawn

[Riveted1]

Originally Posted by El Jay

I think you have the recipe wrong.

The original recipe here called for soda ash (anhydrous sodium carbonate).
I have also seen the same procedure using "cleaning soda" (Sal Soda; hydrated sodium carbonate)
I have not seen it using baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

To put into technical terms; them extra carbonate salt thingies, attached to the sodium widgets could be messin' with your chemical reaction.

Some notes:

El Jay is correct. I've heard that regular baking soda will work, but takes much longer, and the results may be lackluster. That is because sodium bicarbonate is less basic than sodium carbonate.

The negative terminal has to be on the parts you are cleaning, otherwise the reaction occurs in reverse. So you are currently adding material to your parts!

You also don't want to use Stainless Steel! The process will create toxic fumes and is dangerous. If you have a section of pipe or something laying around, use that. It will be much safer.

Just my .02

[chipflyer]

Been doing it for years to clean up old tractor parts. I have found that the best stuff to use is Arm and Hammer Washing powder. I do like to use a piece of Stainless steel to use as the anode (red lead) as it will not get eaten up like a piece of steel will and if you do much of this you will realize how fast you eat the anode up. Here is a pic of a 1929 John Deere D wheel that I did, had to flip it but it really turned out nice. Don't hook it up backwards, it will actually eat up the part you want to de-rust. THE BLACK LEAD goes on the part you are trying to remove rust from!

Jeff

[shifty]

hmmmm, i wonder how well this would work on some steelies (wheels)?

[chipflyer]

It would work good Shifty, not as quick as blasting them though. If you add a little red devil lye It will completely strip paint and leave a nice black coating on the wheels.

Jeff

[ERASER5]

So where would I find soda ash?

[shifty]

i just want to save myself the effort of trying to get sandpaper down in the cracks, nooks and crannies and was thinking about putting naval jelly on it.

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

So where would I find soda ash?

I would think that any place that sells swimming pool supplies would have it.
It's not really all that exotic.

[Riveted1]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

I went to the local pool supply and picked up some Soda Ash, aka sodium carbonate.

Aha!