Time to fix up Dad's old truck

[Jeepwm69]

Thanks for the help! I'll pop a starter on it when I'm down there in the middle of may and will update with some more pics.

[Jeepwm69]

Haven't updated this for awhile, but I have now moved back home, so actually drove the truck to my new job. Haven't done much lately, but did get a starter on it so the thing runs and drives great now. Took some rust converter to the few spots it had to keep them from getting any worse.

My two daughters said "wow, even though this truck is OLD, it's really fast!" They're 4 and 5, and I didn't even speed, but I did leave it in 2nd for awhile to wind it up a bit and they equate engine noise with speed

Anyhow, I'll get moving on this again as soon as it cools off a bit. First order of business is to get the gas gauge working and get the speedo correct.

[Damien]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

Anyhow, I'll get moving on this again as soon as it cools off a bit. First order of business is to get the gas gauge working and get the speedo correct.

It really is nice to have atleast one or the other. If the speedo works you can guess when you need gas.

[CLASSIC87']

I wanna see some before and after pics... surely u have cleaned it up

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

I planned on getting a new drier, new lines, and new compressor, but if the oil on the underside of the hood does not necessarily mean compressor leak, I might want to pressurize the system and find the leak before I do all of that. Is there something I can pressurize the system with other than R12 to see where the leak is (I know they make stuff with dye, but can I use it with something other than R12)?
I have R134 guages and have retrofitted one of my CJ7's to R134 with no problems, but it didn't have a leak. Once I find the leak on this truck I plan to vacuum it down and put R134 in it. I've seen the writeups on this site about what needs to be changed, and while it seems to be a bit more complicated than the Jeep, I think it's something I can handle.

I use Nitrogen after the system is vacuumed down and holds that vacuum for 6 -12 hours. You could use any inert gas Helium, CO2 or Argon gas from your MIG or TIG.

Make sure your compressor is filled with correct fresh dry oil. Make sure you don't have too much oil floating around the rest of the system it won't cool well if you do.
134 conversions that last aren't super cheap. R12 and R134 use very different refrigerant soluble oils. R134 will not properly carry the R12 oil around the system. If you plan on converting to 134 completely flush the system of old oil and drain the compressor. Refill compressor with a full charge of 134 oil and install a new drier, 134 barrier hoses and, all new 134 seals (134 will slowly bleed through most R12 hoses and seals).

[Jeepwm69]

Looked at the gas gauge issue today. I found a ground wire on the frame, and when I pulled on it it was broken somewhere up above the tank. I found a loose end comingout of a loom right around the sending unit and hooked the ground up to that wire and now when I turn the key on the gauge goes all the way to E. Did I hook the ground wire to the sending wire? Not sure how they got broken, but apparently they are. Looks like to fix it I can either drop the tank or take off the bed......

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

Looked at the gas gauge issue today. I found a ground wire on the frame, and when I pulled on it it was broken somewhere up above the tank. I found a loose end comingout of a loom right around the sending unit and hooked the ground up to that wire and now when I turn the key on the gauge goes all the way to E. Did I hook the ground wire to the sending wire? Not sure how they got broken, but apparently they are. Looks like to fix it I can either drop the tank or take off the bed......

What color was the wire?
Black, Blue, Purple, or Light-Green should be the ground wire attached from the tank near the sender locking ring to the frame. I don't remember if its attached to the lock ring, sender or, the tank collar.

Sender wire color on a single tank will be Pink. Duals will be Pink striped with black or white back to the selector and Pink to the firewall plug. TBI duals are Gray or Tan back to the selector valve and Pink to the firewall plug.

Grounding the sender wire will drop the needle to @ 9:00 position. The sender wire hanging loose or a bad tank ground will put the needle at @ 3:00.

[Jeepwm69]

Originally Posted by hatzie

What color was the wire?
Black, Blue, Purple, or Light-Green should be the ground wire attached from the tank near the sender locking ring to the frame. I don't remember if its attached to the lock ring, sender or, the tank collar.

Sender wire color on a single tank will be Pink. Duals will be Pink striped with black or white back to the selector and Pink to the firewall plug. TBI duals are Gray or Tan back to the selector valve and Pink to the firewall plug.

Grounding the sender wire will drop the needle to @ 9:00 position. The sender wire hanging loose or a bad tank ground will put the needle at @ 3:00.

Looks like I have the sending wire grounded. That said, the gauge goes to E when key is on, not to 9:00. The tank is full.

I'm still wondering how both wires got cut, because we've had this truck since new and it's really weird that both wires are cut.

[Jeepwm69]

Just to update this a bit.
Got the truck running and starting like new.
Gas guage fixed
New speakers all the way through.

The tree sap washed off pretty good except for the hood and top. I guess the stuff just etched itself to the paint cause nothing seems to touch it.

Want to get a dash cap ordered, paint door panels with some SEM dye, and add an Ipod hookup to the stereo (have an old Pioneer tape deck from the early 90's in there now).

Outside needs paint and molding, and some different wheels (I think). I've debated painting it a more exciting color (pewter maybe?) and putting some old school chrome cragers on it, but part of me wants to keep it just like it is (which is also just like it came off the lot).

Still like to get the A/C working and get a speedo gear box to get the speedo correct. Right now the speedo reads 45 when I'm going 55ish.

Anyhow, it is obviously a SLOW moving project. Between bills and my Jeeps money is tight!. At least it is being driven a little bit now after sitting up for 3-4 years.

[THE "10" SILVERADO]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

Just to update this a bit.
Got the truck running and starting like new.
Gas guage fixed
New speakers all the way through.

The tree sap washed off pretty good except for the hood and top. I guess the stuff just etched itself to the paint cause nothing seems to touch it.

Want to get a dash cap ordered, paint door panels with some SEM dye, and add an Ipod hookup to the stereo (have an old Pioneer tape deck from the early 90's in there now).

Outside needs paint and molding, and some different wheels (I think). I've debated painting it a more exciting color (pewter maybe?) and putting some old school chrome cragers on it, but part of me wants to keep it just like it is (which is also just like it came off the lot).

Still like to get the A/C working and get a speedo gear box to get the speedo correct. Right now the speedo reads 45 when I'm going 55ish.

Anyhow, it is obviously a SLOW moving project. Between bills and my Jeeps money is tight!. At least it is being driven a little bit now after sitting up for 3-4 years.

I've never seen the box that goes into the transmission before. My truck (Th350) and my step-dads 4-speed chevelle both had the "bullet" thing withe the gear directly in the transmission. Both are fairly accurate (within 3 mph).

[primrrd]

if the starter is the original delco-remy, i am always reticent to part with it.
i just rebuilt mine with a 20.00 kit from autozone.
- buy that and 2 cans of brake cleaner to clean it up.
sand down the armature good,
replace brushes, 2 bushings, the starter drive and a leather washer-
botta boom, botta bing...
if the current housing fits and the starter doesnt grind or hang- you wont have to worry about shims if it doesnt have any
(or just use the ones it's always had, takes the guess work out)

[Jeepwm69]

Originally Posted by THE "10" SILVERADO

I've never seen the box that goes into the transmission before. My truck (Th350) and my step-dads 4-speed chevelle both had the "bullet" thing withe the gear directly in the transmission. Both are fairly accurate (within 3 mph).

It actually had the little box from the factory. It croaked in the early 90's and the dealership said I could get a new one for about $100 (ton of money back then) or they could put the cable directly into the tranny, but the speedo wouldn't be accurate.

[Jeepwm69]

Originally Posted by primrrd

if the starter is the original delco-remy, i am always reticent to part with it.
i just rebuilt mine with a 20.00 kit from autozone.
- buy that and 2 cans of brake cleaner to clean it up.
sand down the armature good,
replace brushes, 2 bushings, the starter drive and a leather washer-
botta boom, botta bing...
if the current housing fits and the starter doesnt grind or hang- you wont have to worry about shims if it doesnt have any
(or just use the ones it's always had, takes the guess work out)

Too late now. Already got an duracrap unit from autozone. I know the alts and starters from autozone are junk, but with a lifetime warranty and the 10-15 min it takes to swap one out.......

I am going to try to rebuild an old warn winch motor for a spare. If it works ok in the future I might try a rebuild instead of a replace with the other vehciles.

[Jeepwm69]

Well after looking at this thing for months thinking "Need to paint it" I came across one of those plastic steel wool-looking scrubbers and though "well what can it hurt?".

It actually did a really good job of getting the sap off. I'm guessing it had about the same effect as wet sanding, because on the places where I really scrubbed I could tell the paint got thin, but it DID get almost all the sap off the truck (still some staining on top and on the hood).

It's wet in these pictures, but I think I'm actually going to wax it and see how it looks. Still needs a paint job at some point, but right now I've got two Jeeps that need it a lot more, and the truck is only driven about once-twice a month.

[SatisTraction]

looks good. not sure where you are but i just moved to Monette ar

[tucsonjwt]

Congratulations on your "new" truck. I have an 83 C20 454.

That little box I think is called a ratio adapter. I have one on my gear vendor. the end of the ratio adapter was worn out (drive pin?) and I had a local shop rebuild mine for about $40 about 10 years ago. If you check with the online GM OEM and Delco vendors you can probably get a new one for about the same price. Let me know if you need a list of those vendors - I use them a lot.

Here in the hot desert southwest, the glue on dash caps actually crack in the sun (just what I was trying to cover up). I got an AccuForm dash cover from JC Whitney, and it went on OK, but you only tack it in place with dabs of silicone. My dash was actually cracked so bad it flexed a lot when taken out, so it was somewhat deformed to begin with. I needed a lot of silicone to get it to lay down correctly along the front edge by the windshield. If you have bad cracks I think you need to trim off the vinyl sticking up before installing the glue on cap. I put some epoxy on the two small cracks on the dash cap and that seems to be working.

The glue on dash cap in the desert will puff up in some areas and not lay completely flat on the dash. The dash cap can only be tacked in place with silicone, so it can flex and move around with changes in temperature.

Accu Form sent me another cap but I have not installed it. I will probably just sell the new replacement dash cap because I think the new one will crack in the desert heat again. You might want to check other brands.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Great progress, and cool little truck. Of course I'm partial here, I've got an 86 C10 shortbed with 305/SM465.