'72 Frame Up Rebuild

[Yukon Jack]

Sure is nice working with clean parts like that!

[scoyote]

I rebuilt the TH350 with a 2000 rpm stall torque converter.

The axles came with 411 gears and since I'm not putting any lockers in at this phase I'm going to run those and see how they work. Lockers are in the future, but that will be the next phase of the build.....which is next winter.

I'll be running BFG Mud Terrain KM2 35 inchers on ProComp rims.

Should be OK with that 383 and that combination.

This isn't a crawler, it's a "trail" truck that will see more road time than trail time.

But, with the 8 lug axles I can take those tires off after summer is over and swap them onto my big Ford and use them during the winter too ;-)

[vtblazer]

Gives you a crawl ratio of 40:1 with that combo and you'll be running somewhere around 1850-ish on the highway w/35's.

So your main usage is right on, more of a driver than a wheeler but able to do both.

[scoyote]

Sweet.....that sounds about what I was hoping for.

I was worried about the TH350 when I had it rebuilt, was thinking about that 4th gear.

If I'm in that 2,000 rpm range....I can live with that.

My TBI and serpentine stuff showed up today so that is the next big project.

Been reading and from what I've read I should be able to put 454 jets in and get pretty close.

So, that is the plan right now.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by scoyote

Sweet.....that sounds about what I was hoping for.

I was worried about the TH350 when I had it rebuilt, was thinking about that 4th gear.

If I'm in that 2,000 rpm range....I can live with that.

My TBI and serpentine stuff showed up today so that is the next big project.

Been reading and from what I've read I should be able to put 454 jets in and get pretty close.

Going to be nice on the interstate with those RPM's.

For your TBI, I'd do more than just increase the injector size.
A 383 is an entirely different motor than a 350 from the computers point of view, you should really chip it too.

[scoyote]

Yea, Roger that on the chip.
The local tranny shop has a Dyno and they burn chips there so we can "dyno tune" it.....again, and again and...... ;-)

[big dump]

What application did you get the serpentine belt setup off of? I'm overall pretty happy with the TBI setup I did on mine, but I'd like to run a serpentine...

Link to my TBI:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=266614

[scoyote]

I got the TBI and the Serpentine setup from one of the members of this website.

The "donor" vehicle was a 1991 Suburban.

Haven't started trying to put the pieces together yet.....fingers crossed!

[scoyote]

POR'd the axles and cross members today.

Now we can start putting parts back together.

Struggling with the wiring, need to take a look at the Painless to see if it's a complete wiring solution including chassis and TBI because right now, there is NO wiring.

I saw another thread on a new harness but it's not setup for TBI, so that's not going to work.

Here's some "progress pics" .....I consider it progress ;-)

Springs are hung, axles are ready to bolt up after they dry....Monday or Tuesday, that POR dries a little slow....but it's a very good product.

I bought a gallon. Put two coats on everything: frame, gas tank, both axles, cross members and I still have 1/3 of a gallon left.

That stuff really covers....I'm very happy with it.

[scoyote]

Bad pics, good progress

The MTO boys have been busy.

I got all the bottom stuff POR'd ...and STILL looking for stuff to paint, that stuff goes a long way....gonna do the frame on my DuraMax next.

Anyway,

Axles are bolted in, 4" "Soft Ride" suspension lift installed, motor, tranny, transfer bolted in.

Brake lines half way done...

WOW.....now it looks like it might actually work ;-)

Bad pics....I'll get better ones

[scoyote]

I've been looking and I guess I'm just not patient enough to check every vendor in the vendor list.....

I need to replace the rear deck (for lack of the proper wording) on my 1972 Blazer but I can't seem to find one.

All I can find is for a regular truck, is that the only option?

Anyone have a vendor that supplies exactly what I'm looking for?

[vtblazer]

Rear deck...?

Meaning the bed floor?

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Sweet build thread good to see another one getting redone..

[scoyote]

Yes, the bed floor.
I wasn't sure what it was called since it's not a pickup....but now I know.

I cannot find a replacement for a 1972 Blazer, all I find is for a regular truck and it has to be cut to fit.

If that is the case, not a problem....I was just hoping for a better deal.

[Shock_Me]

scoyote,

Great build progress! I'm about to embark on a total frame-up too with my 72 Jimmy. I too have to replace my rear floor, and was wondering the same thing about truck beds. I've got a line on a rust free tub, but the tub's not "free".

Good luck with the build, I'm subscribed!

Pete

[scoyote]

Here are some photos of my "tub" fresh from the bead blaster.

It didn't look this rusted until it was blasted, then you can see the real story.

I would encourage anyone doing a frame up to bead blast it...that way you see everything!

When you see the whole bed at one time it's easier to see why the best course of action is to replace instead of trying to repair.

This "frame off" stuff is labor intensive and VERY expensive....more than I figured but worth it in the end.....or that is what I keep telling my wife ;-)

[scoyote]

More photos

[scoyote]

Shock_Me, how much for that rust free tub and where is it?

I'm starting to wonder if it's more cost effective to find a "rust free" tub, bead blast it and get where I am right now?

Problem I can see is that until it's blasted....you really don't see what is covered up or the rust beneath the bondo......sigh

[Critter]

Wow, that is scary! Why didn't they blast under the dash a little more?

[packers05]

what did the bead blast run ya?thanks

[scoyote]

The bead blast was 500 bucks....which I figured was a pretty good deal compared to trying to sand it by hand.

Plus, it really blew out the thin areas that were rusted from the bottom.

I was totally surprised to see all that rust, it just didn't look that bad until it was blasted and then....well....you see it now.

Still gotta wonder about a new tub even at this stage .....

They didn't blast under the dash anymore because I didn't remove the heater box, you could tell there wasn't any rust up there so it wasn't necessary and that area will be sanded by hand with air sander.

[Shock_Me]

if it's all the same with you, i think i might wait to see the state of my own tub before i give up my source. Seeing yours has me pretty nervous.
For what it's worth, i've seen rust like that repaired by some of the talented guys around this forum before, so don't lose hope yet.

Pete

[70 Suburban]

to be honest doesnt look like you have that much rust where it counts the bed floor can be replaced and wont affect cosmetics. welding/ bolting on the inside is better then hacking up the outside to install patches

[scoyote]

We're gonna replace the bed and the wheel well covers and go with it like that.

It's the most cost efficient from what I've been pricing.

The outside is in very good condition....so that is a plus.

I'll post progress pics.

[70 Suburban]

I would think so to. My floor is in great shape but i have to replace both rockers and front cap mounts and parts of the floor.and the front of the bed on passanger side and rear lower on the drivers side. and why not hugger orange instead of bronco