hAetwagon's 65 Progress thread..

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

And I need to give back here.. this place is worthy of support.

My suggestion is to post up pics of your stuff and list out the issues so others can learn or avoid mistakes and problems. It always helps someone sooner or later......so is the truck going now????

[hAetWagon]

I agree.
No the truck is not running yet. It's back together..except for the driveshaft.

I got the yoke on, reassembled...annnd....the Powerglide that I have is about an inch and a half longer than the one I took out. The yokes are the same OAL so ..I now have to get my driveshaft shortened.

These are all not big issues if you have another source of transportation. .

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

I agree.
No the truck is not running yet. It's back together..except for the driveshaft.

I got the yoke on, reassembled...annnd....the Powerglide that I have is about an inch and a half longer than the one I took out. The yokes are the same OAL so ..I now have to get my driveshaft shortened.

These are all not big issues if you have another source of transportation. .

That's weird, I thought all powerglides were the same length
Could it possibly be a short shaft TH350?

[hAetWagon]

It's most certainly a powerglide. What I pulled out was a powerglide and what I put in is a powerglide.
The tail assembly is slightly different and the output shaft is different.

The guy I got it off of has a 1960 Ford F100 with a 455 and th350 in it (now)
It had the powerglide in it.
The nearest I can figure is that the output shaft is longer or the tail housing.
I'm assuming all of these things from the comfort of home in my boxers of course.

The Yokes are the exact same length just different splines.

I've learned a few lessons from this swap.
#1Don't bother trying to save a few dollars on a tow if it's anything that will take you longer than 45 minutes to do; something WILL come up and make you feel stupid for not doing it sooner.
#2. Don't bother trying to save yourself time and money by replacing something that you are dissatisfied with NOW with it's equal, even if you believe it's just temporary.You don't get your time back. Money comes and goes. Blow your money, but spend your time wisely.

When it's all said and done; I will have purchased a flywheel that only works with this trans. And will have a driveshaft that also, will only work with this trans setup I'm assuming .

So I'm going to be sticking with this setup for a little while at least.

And last but not least. When it's all said and done. I'm still having to get the damned truck towed home tomorrow am because I now have to rely on a driveline shop to shorten my driveshaft by 1.750 inches and the last time I had them make me a driveshaft it took a week. Custom job though.

Speaking of which here's the query:

After I determined that with the slip yoke all the way to the hilt that it it needed to be shortened an inch and a half just to get the holes in the carrier bearing to line up, I am wondering what I should do dimension wise.
Do I want to tell them just an inch and a half or 1.750? 2.0in?

I could use advice here.
From what I can tell seeing as it is a 2 pc DS that the front shaft doesn't appear to need much play, and that any play occurring from the suspension travel is divided between the 2 shafts. Seeing as I am going air ride and will be using the entire range of travel, what should I tell the Driveshaft guys to cut it down to?

[hAetWagon]

I'm dropping the driveshaft at Sacramento Driveline in the morning to get it cut down fellas.
I could use some insight here, otherwise I'm going to tell em to cut 2" off.
They are saying worst case I'll have it 24hrs later but most likely same day.

[jason65]

Sorry, I've been busy. I hope you measured it. I took my 2 peice shaft and went with a 1 peice. Sounds like you got it under control. I say go with 2".

[MacAttack]

Wow. Quite a saga. Misery loves company, so this makes my farting around on my truck sound feeble. Hope everything turns out, and yes - this forum is well worth your time and subscription support.

Mac.

[hAetWagon]

I went with 2".
I'd like to go to a 1 piece in the future. That's going to require me to Fab up a DS loop right?

[jason65]

Nope. I just removed my carrier bearing and put the shaft threw the hole.
I beleve if you going bagged the 2 peice is better so your drive shaft can expand and contract with the change of rideheight. I went with a 1 peice cause I was told by the driveshaft place that with a 700r4 the front shaft would be to short and wouldn't want to balance. I left enuff space to drop a few inches.

[hAetWagon]

Here's the problem with the 2 piece ( that I have anyway.)
The slip yoke up front isn't used because of the carrier bearing. the up and down movement that the rear absorbs is going to be absorbed by the U joint and the rubber shock surrounding the carrier bearing.
A slip yoke design in a one piece or even the back half of the 2 would allow better travel and less binding. I would think.

Thoughts?

[jason65]

Are you bagging it?

[hAetWagon]

Yes.

[jason65]

There are much smarter people here than me but I think a 2 peice would work best. It sucks changing out a carrier bearing when it goes out but it seems to me that a 2 peice has more slip than a 1 peice and would accomadate the constant change in rideheight. I would ask ImperialKustom. Nobody lays a shlongbed down like him. He is in the club.

[protrash64]

When Ive gotten driveshafts done here, they told me to come home and measure from one point to another and call them and they would shorten the shaft appropriately. They were done in a day, also.

I'm making a mental note to always re-do my starter circuit on any future 60-66 truck purchases.

[hAetWagon]

This chapter in the saga seems to be over for now ( I've learned to never say something is done; it's all apparently,allegedly or seemingly done.)
I got the driveshaft today, bolted right up.
I had to crawl underneath and tighten the hardlines to stop the leak.
I've got reverse again!!!!!!!

It makes it all worth it!

I can park wherever the Fu*k I want!!! I don't have to drive around looking for a spot with a forward exit or push it backwards!!!

seriously, though I'm stoked.


Next on the agenda......
Rewiring with the help of EZwiring.com.
As far as the BIG project is concerned anyway.

For now I'm going to head over to the carwash and pressurewash the underside of this thing. I don't EVER want to get as filthy as I've gotten working on this thing ever again.

[joe231]

and welcome to our addiction

[hAetWagon]

I had an awesome update to post a few days ago and my laptop died.


I thought for a bit and yanked all of my wiring from the cab to the tailgate and started over.
Seeing as I've gutted the entire truck I'm not at the point where I need the busblock yet I just located all of my lighting an hooked em em up. Incl my instruments and my brakelights.

( I didn't have em before)

So, next is suspension.

[hAetWagon]

Oh, and thanks Joe. I'll try and enjoy my stay.lol

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

This chapter in the saga seems to be over for now ( I've learned to never say something is done; it's all apparently,allegedly or seemingly done.)
.

[hAetWagon]

You laugh because you know exactly what I mean!!!!

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

You laugh because you know exactly what I mean!!!!

Damn Straight........

[hAetWagon]

No progress to speak of on the truck itself.
I start school in a few weeks, My goal is to make sure I finish my assignments way ahead of time to take advantage of the veritable super shop worth of equipment there for personal gain ...lol

[hAetWagon]

K guys,
I've been in school for about a month and have been working mu butt off.
I'm very excited as the amount of stuff that I can do has exponentially increased. I'm not going to be able to do what I want when I want to quite yet and am currently faced with a few necessity repairs.

1. I need to get a new radiator. BAD. It looks like someone took a needle and poked holes in my current one. If I had my druthers I'd have my classmate from Sparks drop by summit and get an aluminum setup with shroud and relay but that's going to have to wait.
I'm going to scour Craigslist to see if I can find anything..
in the meantime. Does anyone know what radiator I could pick up from Kragen for what model truck or car with Trans cooler attached (or not) that I could use?
They don't show a replacement but I figured there'd be a cross reference somewhere.

2.
The powerglide I bought is slipping.
It worked fine when I first installed it.
IS it going out? Dirty filter?
Do Torque Converters go bad?

I'm getting another crash course in life right now and I'm sure these are all basic questions...
I'm going to assume that the trans needs rebuilt as it's slipping in 1st as well, but I'm not sure.
Thanks in advance Y'all.

[protrash64]

A torque convertor can go bad because its similar to a propellor and it wears down.

[joe231]

slipping is usually the clutches worn out.

check out this radiator.

AUTOZONE RADIATOR