LFD's XXL DropMember I6 Install

[Rokcrln]

Well since we are this far into it XXL decided he wanted to update the floor and give it a smoother shape. We are also hiding all the brake lines and wires under the tunnel. So here is the second attempt for XXL to look at. I just did a quick wire buck for the shape and if we go with this then I will use it as the form to weld the sheet metal to because I can shape it and try the fit and by looking from the back I can see were the fit is right and were it needs work. Also I can do all this on the bench with a final trim once it is in place. This same design step can be used for many different tasks you might have in the shop were it is hard to get a shape to start with.
Their is about a 1/2" under the front of the seat for sound mat and carpet and then the tunnel will extend to the rear of the cab to cover the drive shaft hoop and hole. Then up at the front of the tunnel I will make a small cover for the wires and lines.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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[XXL]

The wireframe will be useful for keeping my chickens in check when driving to market.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by XXL

The wireframe will be useful for keeping my chickens in check when driving to market.

I left enough space between the cage and the trans so by the time you get home from the market they should be ready for dinner or just a mid day snack

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[ERASER5]

Mmmm! Chicken marinated in ATF and road grime. Finger lick'n good!

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I left enough space between the cage and the trans so by the time you get home from the market they should be ready for dinner or just a mid day snack

Excellent! This will be much more subtle than my current vehicle...

[VA72C10]

Classic

[Rokcrln]

I had a few hours to get some work done before we leave for the in-laws for the rest of the weekend and I got more done than I had planned. I finished the front of the tunned and got it installed and seam sealed. I will finish the rear after I get it on the ground to make sure their aren't any drive shaft clearance issues when aired out. The paint around the open tunnel hole is a weld through primmer that works great for this kind of job were you will not be pulling the motor for awhile and don't want any rust to start. I spot welded the tunnel about every 3/4" of an inch all the way around and then used a Zink primer over the welds before the seam sealer went on. I left enough of the fire wall lip sticking below the tunnel so when the motor is pulled for re-paint we can just roll that edge over for a nice smooth edge. This way if XXL wants he can install his sound mat and interior and not worry about having to weld the edge for a finished look and burn up his insides.

While I was waiting for the paint to dry on the tunnel and the opening I went ahead and cleaned the frame and gave it a good coat of paint to clean it up a bit. I also pulled the DropMember and drilled out all the frame holes for final assembly. Then last thing before welding in the tunnel was a quick weld job on the motor mounts.

So here it sits until Monday after work for the next task.

Kevin
LFD Inc.


One thing I need to add is this tunnel turned out Fricking Bad Ars! I am glad I started with the front because I don't know if I will get as lucky with the section under the seat

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[Rokcrln]

Almost their. I have the DropMember fully installed and I must say it went very easy and every bolt hole lined up great. I had cut the cross shafts out of the LCA and then bolted the arms in place using Never Seize on the tube spacer and lock tight on the bolt. It was a little bit of work to get the LCA in place because Nate's tolerances are very tight on this unit but a little trying and it all worked great and I guess no slop on the LCA mounts is a good thing. The rack and bags are in as well as the new motor mounts and I am working on the steering shafts now. Once they are done I will mount the UCA's, tie rod ends and power steering lines and be ready to rock and roll or in this case drag and scrape

I re-worked the throttle and have the trans shifter finished up as well. I had to cut the end of the firewall mount throttle rod off, rotate and then bend it around the header so it would clear both the header at idle and the firewall at full open. It was a biatch to get it just right so the pedal was in the right spot and I had my 3/16" clearance at the header but all is well.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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[FRENCHBLUE72]

Ken im sure you will reuse some of the borg joints but what ever ya have left over I could sure use for my pancaked crossmember. Also kevin how much torque is used on the crosshaft nuts as noone seems to know?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Also kevin how much torque is used on the crosshaft nuts as noone seems to know?

Great question let me see if I can give a short but detailed answer.
First off what size joint are you using? Does it have splines on both ends or one end with a DD on the other or is it a DD on both ends? Then if it has the DD style is it the large or small? And lastly how many joints in the system 1, 2 or a max of 3? Then what brand joint is it and how was it heat treated, oil bath fast quench or a slow cool off with DTE? Ok I am almost done, does it have the thin jamb nut or the thicker regular nut?

Now that we know just what we are using and how many in the system we can get to the important part of this. Are you going to use a standard or a left hand 7/16 or 1/2" wrench to torque them down. Make sure you keep the Allen wrench in the center while you torque the nut down with ether the left hand or regular wrench. Once that is done check to make sure their is not play in the system and you are set to rock and roll.

Sorry it was long winded but as you can see their is allot to take in to get to the answer.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jlaird]

I think he was talking about the control arm crossshafts.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Great question...

Huh?


edit: Whoops... what jlaird said.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

MMMMMMMMMMMMMM I was a talking about the control arm shaft nuts.... But m thanks for the detailed info..

[68 short step]

80 FT LBS at ride height

[XXL]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Ken im sure you will reuse some of the borg joints but what ever ya have left over I could sure use for my pancaked crossmember.

Looks like I'm going to have an anti-spare after it's all said and done. Old setup used 2 joints. New one will need 3. Maybe Kevin can clarify if I have any leftovers after the dust settles.

If I do end up with leftovers, I'll let you know.

[Rokcrln]

Yeah sorry guys I got nothing


But what I do is install the nuts and Allen's and tighten them down so they will leave a mark in the shaft. Then I remove the joint and drill the shaft just deep enough to create a dish. Then I re-install the joint and tighten down the Allen as hard as I can with a normal size Allen wrench then same for the jamb nut. I do not use lock tight just arm power and I have never had an issue in over 25yrs.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Thanks ken.......mmmmmmmmmmmmm kevin uhhhhhhhh well how ya doing....hahahha.. Thanks 68 short step

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

MMMMMMMMMMMMMM I was a talking about the control arm shaft nuts.... But m thanks for the detailed info..

Oops guess I should have read better I thought you were talking about the cross bolt nut on the steering joints

Yes I think 80lbs is about right and at ride height is very important. This is because the bushing will bind up once the nut is tightened. So having it at ride height will cause an equal "bind" for a better work on up and down travel.

Kevin
LFD Inc

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by XXL

Looks like I'm going to have an anti-spare after it's all said and done. Old setup used 2 joints. New one will need 3. Maybe Kevin can clarify if I have any leftovers after the dust settles.

If I do end up with leftovers, I'll let you know.

Ken you will have 1 joint left over. It is the one that mounts onto the PS box and is DD 3/4" on the other end.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Ken you will have 1 joint left over. It is the one that mounts onto the PS box and is DD 3/4" on the other end.

Plus a pancaked xmember and lots of grime that I need to find a home for.

Thanks, Kevin.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by XXL

Plus a pancaked xmember and lots of grime that I need to find a home for.

Thanks, Kevin.

And a set of Upper bag mounts!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

And a set of Upper bag mounts!

Plus grime. Did I mention grime?

[70rs/ss]

I'll take the grime if all the other parts come with it?! Looking sweet, lovin' 6er and all the other stuff as the majority of these "resto" vehicles use a SBC!

[Rokcrln]

Quick update. I have been doing a few hours each night and another 7 today.

I have finished up the steering, ran new front brake hard lines and flex hoses, new air lines with rubber sleeves. I finished the rack install (had to cut off 2 3/8" from each side) and put the rest of the suspension back in. When I installed the new front flex hoses I drilled a 5/8" hole in the frame then with a small set of hand files I notched the hole so when the brake line went in the hole it held it in place and locked it in with a line holder clamp in the inside of the frame. The old lines had rubbed a few times on the tires so the new ones have a 3/4 rotation in them so they coil up when they get shorter and stay way out of the tire way through out the full suspension cycle. Now when the truck is aired out the frame lays flat on the floor and the entire drive train is 2"+ off the ground. The shocks bottom out as the frame makes contact with the ground and I set the toe in -1/8" at the leading edge of the tires and it stays right there through out the full cycle as well.

I am sure I forgot a few things to list but the pics should make up for it. Enjoy. Next will be the remainder of the floor tunnel and some bed work as well as the PS line kit once it gets here Monday.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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[Rokcrln]

A few more!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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Clearance with 3" at the rockers!

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