the rebuild begins next week for the 1966 c10

[protrash64]

I 'm giving you a heads up that you may need to clearance the front of your cross member for your centerlink. The old school method of doing it always included making a notch in the front. Just be sure to check before everything goes together or you will be pulling it all out again.

Maybe get your steering gear mounted and your idler arm and get that x-member up in there to see what it looks like.


Killer progress....looking forward to more updates.

[xratt]

Yeah, kinda figured that out. I already installed the cross member. The drag link hits on both ends, right at the mounting bolts of the lower a-arm bolts. Also the upper a-arm on the driver side smacks right into the steering shaft.

My plan is to install the whole steering box and drag link and linkage out of a 1986 truck, to match the 1986 spindles I just bolted in. Then redrill the mounting holes for both about an inch or so higher on the frame. At one inch, it looks like the top side of the drag link will just clear the frame. If this plan works. I will not have to notch the cross member at all.

Now the steering shaft ordeal is a little different. My buddy Larry, says this is not a big deal. Installing some ujoints and doing some creative engineering and I will be set. So I'm trusting him. Also lets me clean off the old three on the tree linkage from the steering shaft.

More updates coming soon, I think I'm finally done tearing things apart. So the new pics will be new stuff going on.

Larry

[xratt]

Finally got a few more things going on the truck. Wired the switches on the dash bracket. Mounted and wired the air valve manifold. RAn all the air lines. Mounted the air compressor. It had just two bolts holding it on when i got it. I built some new brackets, and now have six bolts it on. Also putr rubber padding under the brackets. Rewired the compressor, also installed a relay and breaker inline. I will have the air tank back next week. It's a Husky spare can, with only one air fitting. So I am adding five more air fittings. Rewired the train horns.

Im heading to the junk yard in the morning to grab steering and brake components. Also have to look for some wheels. After i switched to the 1986 disc brakes. My old wheels to not fit. So far i have collected 6 lug rims, 5 lug rims (5 @4.5), and still have to find some to fit the front of the truck.

Still have a ton to do. Since the first goal was 30 day rebuild. That goal has come and gone. So lets see if I can make it in 60 days. That leaves me about 25 days.

[xratt]

With a few added upgrades. I'm starting to built a pile of extras and take offs, I'm not going to need. I pulled out the stock clutch pedal assembly. So if someone is in need of some of this odds and ends let me knew. I'm sure most of this stuff is dime a dozen for the most part. But you never know. I would rather someone could use it other then toss it. Besides the clutch pedal and down rod, for a 1966 C10. I have the stock steering box, drag link, tie rod ends, spindles and front brakes, front lower control arms. By the end of this build I will have 2 sets of extra rims too. 5 lug and 6 lug.

I really enjoyed the junk yard today. I have not been to that one in a while. I like roaming around all those car and trucks. After a little searching, i found my brake booster. But was not happy with the steering set ups I found. So I'm headed tomarrow to pick up a parts truck, well really just a frame with only 2 wheels on it. For the good ole price of $0, to rob all my steering parts from. Don't think there much else useable on it. We will see.

Today at the garage, i installed the window scraping felt inserts that clip into the door frame on each side of the window. Pretty easy install. Then I tackled the rear window, with the new seal I got from LMC. What a pain in the ass. First tried the old standard method i used to use on my VW's back in the days. Using rope in the groove and pulling the seal over the metal lip. Not good. Made a big mess, ripped the lip off one section of the seal. Was a hard job for my 12 year old son and I to tackle. After a few attemps, i did get it done. But I learned a lesson. I'm taking the truck somewhere to have the wind shield installed. I already pulled the wind shield out and have the new gasket.

[protrash64]

Looking good xratt......having a deadline is always good to shoot for. I hear ya on the extra parts!!! Between what Ive pulled off and what I want to put on I have a ton of stuff to trip over.

[daverod]

Looking good Xratt. I love this place now I can see all the problems I'm going to have when I put my front cross member in. Take lots of pics.

[xratt]

We picked up the parts frame today. It is really just a bare 1986 C-10 frame with full front suspension, steering components, two wheels, and a front bumper. Perfect for what I need. Going tomarrow to get the good stuff I want and scrap the rest. I'm also going to keep the front cross member as a spare. Might be a good idea to have a stock one extra. With the parts i got today off the parts frame. Im only short master cylinder, brake lines, and power steering pump and hoses. Getting closer. I will get more pics tomarrow.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Looking good xratt......having a deadline is always good to shoot for.

This 'Deadline' concept you speak of - what is it exactly?

[xratt]

The main reason for the deadline, was the rental space I'm using to do the rebuild. I pay by the month. It's a warehouse with about 8 spaces in it. The guy who manages it works in it too. He runs a Vespa repair shop. So he has lots of old and new Vespa's and Stella's in there too. My area is about a 10x20 space, but i ended up using some of the vacant space around me too. I also get to use all this guys tools, and engine lift. Plus he offers advice on any problems I run into. He also builds BMW's. New and old. If I could afford it, I would keep the space long term just to have a place to keep tools and do tune up work or other projects. My current house has on street parking only. No driveway, not the best idea for a guy with and old truck, I know.

[xratt]

More progress, finally. Picked up the wheels, well two of them. Not sure they are going to work. They are 8.5 inches wide. Thats pretty wide for having it bagged and hoping to have it hit the ground. How wide are some of you guys rims with lowered rides?

I'm having to cut the upper a arms, to angle the ball joints down to keep them from binding. So until I get these back i can't test fit the wheels to figure out fitment. Tire size? ect.

Took my junk yard brake booster and the factory push rod from the brake pedal. Welded them together. Finally got it installed. Had to do a bit of messaging to get it to fit. I'm pleased with the outcome. Now i have to buy the master cylinder and brake lines to finish this part of the project. Can't wait to try my hand at bending brake lines.

[xratt]

Hit a slow patch of working on the truck. Crazy stuff like life and a real job, and a side job. Its nuts, knowing my truck should come first. I have made some headway. Painted the engine bay matt black, came out ok. This is where your prep work can be seem after your done. Bought all the brake parts and brake lines. Started mounting the power steering pump and drag link. A little scary not knowing alot about steering geometery and building one from scratch. With the cross member sectioned 1.5 inches, i moved the steering assemble up 1 inch. Hoping to help the drag link clear the lead edge of the cross member. So now the steering box knuckle and drag link knuckle just clear under the frame, about 1/8 or so. And no hitting on the crossmember at all. I'm also thinking I'm going to flip the tie rod ends at the spindle. They seem to bind up bad, when I raise the suspension near its limit topped out. I'm picking up a reamer tool tomorrow. Will try to get this done over the weekend. I will take more pics too. I'm suppose to ride my bicycle in the MS150 this weekend. Thinking i might do the century (100 miles) on Saturday, just to have truck time on Sunday. Priorities!!!!

[protrash64]

You should have no problem with an 8.5'' wheel fitting.........its all in the backspace. Between 4.5 and 5.5'' will be good.

[xratt]

A week of busting butt after work, i finally have a few pics of results. Got tires put on 5 lug rims. Tire size is 235/60/15, on 8.5 inch wide rims, with 4.25 back spacing. Had to do a fair bit of cutting on the inner fender to get the wheels to tuck all the way up. Was able to keep the hood hinges, and springs after a little cutting and banging. This was my first time cut sheet metal and trying to make it look nice. I think i failed. But it does function for now. More important things like getting it on the road. I can come back to this later.
Going to try to tie rod flip tomorrow, I picked up the reamer tool today. Also picked up the tubing bender for the brake lines.

Has anyone ever cut the drag link on their truck? I installed a drag link from a 1986 truck. It seems very long. Causing the tie rods to be very long. I thought about cutting down the tie rods to correct this. But I think it lays in the drag link.

Got picks of before and after of the wheel wells and the inner fender, and one of the power steering pump mounted.

[xratt]

Well I was wrong about the center link being too long. The 1986 center link is 1 inch shorter then the 1966 one. After much measuring and refitting. All i had to do was cut down the driver side tie rod about 1 inch. Now, it is bottomed out on adjustment on the driver side, but the passenger side still has adjustabily, and the wheels are very close to straight. Still have to figure out the steering shaft, and obtain a power steering pump. But I'm a lot closer now. Also started mounting, and bending brake lines. Have 2 more lines to run to the front calipers and I'm done. More updates coming soon!!!!!

[xratt]

Finished the whole air ride set up today. Well, except two power wires for the switches. Also got most of the brake stuff done. Leave it to me to get a Ford master cylinder that has some odd ball plug in the side of it, that no one offers the plug. So I can't put fluid in it yet. Took me a week to find the plugs to fill the factory "T" fittings empty hole. After I removed the front brake lines. I will have the brakes and air ride operating this week.

Next big challenge is the steering shaft. I have a lot to figure out with this. I have 2 steering ujoints my buddy gave me. I just have to figure out where to install them. And some sort of carrier bearing for the shaft.

After steering is done, just leaves motor install, tons of wiring, gas tank and bed floor install. Oh yeah, windshield install. Scary!

[jason65]

Nice job dude. Trucks looking better.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

xratt, take a look at this when you get a chance:
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=367371
We're trying to garner some support for a new sub-forum for 60-66 Projects and Builds.
thanks

[xratt]

I swapped out the 1999 Ranger brake master cylinder for a 1996 one. It has just 2 lines out, and no electronic plugs. Simplier. But in hindsight, I wish i had stuck with chevy parts. I finally got fluid in the system. Front brakes seem fine. The back brake will not bleed out right. Barely any fluid comes out with each brake pedal push, and the sucks back into the wheel cylinder when you release the pedal. I can't figure it out.
Finally got all the steering parts cut and fit. Ready to weld together. This will happen tomorrow.
I also moved the steering column 1 inch closer to the dash. Hope theres no problems. Simply moved the under dash bracket and drilled two new holes and rebolted the bracket about 1 inch higher up. Cut the end of the column off on the fire wall end. Left just enough hanging out for the clamp to hold it at the fire wall. Removed all the shifting guts from inside the column.
Got the drive shaft mounted today. Started mooking up the gas tank placement and tool box placement. I'm using a metal truck bed mounted tool box to kinda hide the fuel cell, that has to be mounted in the bed. Will have to open the tool box to get to the fuel cap. Before rain and everything would sit on the fuel cap, causing problems.
Trying for a big push to finish this enough to drive the truck by the 15th. Thats the day unit rent is due again. Well seeing how the wifey got laid off Friday. Truck funds will start drying up for a while. So I have 15 days of truck butt kicking fun coming up.

[sams60gmc]

I'm subscribing to this build. Sweet truck man and great work! Keep it up and post pics often.

[xratt]

pics of new master cylinder

[DPowers]

keep it up man- looking good

[jgh64pkup]

lookin good

[xratt]

Well first attemp at a steering shaft did not work. FYI, using a rag joint at the steering box as a u-joint will not work. So i ordered a splines u-joint today. It comes in Tuesday.

Had some progress in the brakes. Finally found the proper plugs to fill the holes in the t-fittings in the rear brake line. Still have more bleeding to do. Have some pressure at the pedal, but not enough to drive it.

Mounted the switches for the air bags under the dash. Mounted the tach. next to the switch panel.

Started working on the wiring under the dash. Will get further on that after the motor gets put in.

I finally got a chance to take the truck off the jack stands to see the stance it will have. Could not get the jack from under the frame. Good sign. I could bearly slide my finger under the cross member. Half of my foot will slide up under the front bumper. So if I want it any lower, its a body drop. Dont think i'm going to tackle that for a while. I just want to drive the damn thing.

I'm under the gun with Daytona and Moultrie coming up. Got lots of friend going to both shows. I better be driving to both too.

[xratt]

some pics

[xratt]

Finally got the gas tank mounted, and new fuel lines ran. After mounting the tank in the bed, I mounted my tool box over the fuel cell, to cover the fuel opening from the outside weather. After cutting out the bottom of the tool box and making cut outs for the fuel cap, fuel level sending unit, and a vent cap, its a perfect fit in the bed.