1946(!) Chevy Truck Need Purchase Advice

[blackdiesel]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Well, if I did it myself I WOULD have trouble when I'm out. With it done professionally (excellent reputation shop) I will NOT have trouble - at least with the electrical that is.

i understand what you mean. and apparently people think of wiring like they think of paint... "oh its to complicated so that means i cant do it" i built, wired, and painted my first truck when i was 12 or 13. and quite frankly it turnd out to be a nice daily driver. it won a few local shows and i drove it to school. i have yet to have a wiring problem out of it and have built several vehicles since then. Get you a quality soldiering iron and go after it! you can pick up a good yet cheap wiring harness off of ebay for ~150 bucks. every wire is labeled every foot and its very straight forward. just dont use those cheap crimp on connectors! soldier and shrink wrap everything and it will be a professional job for a quarter of the cost

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the advice, honestly. The truth is I am certain I COULD do the wiring myself. I'm cewrtainly perfectionistic enough that I would take pains to follow the instructions and route everything nicely.The reality is that I don't have the time to do it. Doing it would mean the truck would be a non-running derelict in my driveway for a couple weekends while I took this on. I not only have too little time on weekends to do it, but also if truth be told, I don't have the spece for it and I don't really WANT to do it. I would not find that kind of work fun at all; this is a hobby afterall not a daily driver.

With my limited time I'd rather work on the cosmetic aspects of the truck since it is so relatively complete mechanically. In fact, thats the real reason I bought it when I had fully intended on buying a '65-'65 or '67-'68 shorty. This truck was a steal and someone else already did all the hardest work (in theory).

Once the wiring is done, I can install the new aluminum radiator (recommendations on which?) and then the rest of the work is largely completion and cosmetics. Sure, rear brake rotors need turning and I don't know how to take apart a Jag rearend (a little help?) and I will change out all the fluids, etc. But quickly after that it becomes little stuff leading to a trip to the paint shop.

[blackdiesel]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks for the advice, honestly. The truth is I am certain I COULD do the wiring myself. I'm cewrtainly perfectionistic enough that I would take pains to follow the instructions and route everything nicely.The reality is that I don't have the time to do it. Doing it would mean the truck would be a non-running derelict in my driveway for a couple weekends while I took this on. I not only have too little time on weekends to do it, but also if truth be told, I don't have the spece for it and I don't really WANT to do it. I would not find that kind of work fun at all; this is a hobby afterall not a daily driver.

With my limited time I'd rather work on the cosmetic aspects of the truck since it is so relatively complete mechanically. In fact, thats the real reason I bought it when I had fully intended on buying a '65-'65 or '67-'68 shorty. This truck was a steal and someone else already did all the hardest work (in theory).

Once the wiring is done, I can install the new aluminum radiator (recommendations on which?) and then the rest of the work is largely completion and cosmetics. Sure, rear brake rotors need turning and I don't know how to take apart a Jag rearend (a little help?) and I will change out all the fluids, etc. But quickly after that it becomes little stuff leading to a trip to the paint shop.

well if ya dont want to do it then thats all that matters. I see what you mean, about only doing what you enjoy. that way you dont get bored or hacked off at the truck that is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby.

as far as a radiator, one would be as good as the next i would think. for my chrysler i took the entire grill shell down to the local radiator shop and ordered a universal radiatior to fit. it came with dual 11" fans and a luvered shroud for ~500 bucks. Looks pretty sweet and keeps my air conditioned LT1 cool setting in traffic on a real hot day.

Good luck on the rear end, maybe someone can chime in with help for it. i have never messed with one.

ya got a good looking truck there and a very good start to a good rig.

[bensimmons_05]

In the end its your truck, I think your making the right decision with the wires.

Now this is JUST a suggestion, but when rotors are turned that have a higher chance of warping again even under lesser loads, if you know what model the rear is out of I'd try to get some aftermarket rotors from a local parts store.

Also, if they are warped there may be too much brake power going to the rear... usually rears don't warp, I'd check the propotioning valve its set up with.

I can't wait to see more of what you do to this truck, seems like you have an awesome plan.

Ben

[mr48chev]

That looks like the start of a great little truck. My best friend in Texas had one quite similar with a big block and four speed back in the mid 70's.

I don't see an issue with having a reliable shop rewire the truck with the kit you mentioned. You still have the support from the company if you have issues and make sure you save the wiring diagrams and put them in your book/folder for the truck. It's a lot easier if you have a problem down the road to be able to pull the diagram out and track the correct circuit down than play red wire/green wire/yellow wire????
A shop wired my buddy's model A in all red wires a few years ago and if you don't think that was fun to trouble shoot on the side of the road at night, Oh boy.

I've turned lots of rotors that had hot spots or were a bit warped and had fairly good luck with them but quite often it is better to pitch the non vented rotors in the scrap bin and buy new ones.

[Byrne66]

WOW! very nice ride... don't waste anytime with that one...

[Dan in Pasadena]

No grass growing under my feet....yet!

Today I kinda went a bit nuts and bought over $400 of "stuff" from Jim Carter Truck Parts. I bought correct tail lights -"blue dots" (well, ALMOST "correct"), mounting brackets, old school steering column mounted signal actuator, door windlaces, hood-to-cowl windlace (is that the correct term?), windshield rubber bumpers (it tilts out, remember this truck is way old school) outside rear view mirrors, arms, longer hinge pins, cowl pivot pins, cowl rubber gasket, all the window channel and glass-to-frame tape, glove box, and assorted fasteners. I'm sure I'm forgetting some things.

I'm trying to move out strong by completing all the stuff that will make it so I will want to dirve it regularly. Right now, the windows rattle in the frames, the frames rattle in the doors, and the doors rattle in the cab openings, ha ha!

I also lucked out and found a local (well, somewhat) guy who had a spare '40 cab who sold me the uber rare rear window metal frame for $20, which is not available as a reproduction. I also got the cowl vent actuator from him (will need rebuilding) and I MAY get a windshield regulator from him if the Canadian guy that said he wanted it doesn't come through. Fingers crossed here; those things are $250 rebuilt with a $100 core charge. While at his place I noticed some fairly long horns mounted in a sort of frame. He said they were the "Town and Country" option for '39-'46 and that I could have them free if I wanted? Of course I took him up on it and plan to restore them. Not sure I'll use them as original - they hang OVER the engine on the cowl to radiator struts. But I MAY use them mounted under the cab since they are era-correct.

Last? I scored a PERFECT condition bench seat back and bottom. NOt a single broken spring....on a SEVENTY year old seat! In this era truck the back hangs on the cab back wall and the bottom hangs on the seat back but sits on top of a seat riser that hides the under-seat gas tank (I'm missing this part). So a productive day.

Tomorrow, I have to order a wiring kit as the truck will be re-wired next week. After discussing it more with the electric guy, he is not hard over that I buy the Ron Francis kit. The Francis one I want is $370 (Yeow!). I can get an EZ kit for about $170-$180. After all this, cooling!

[hotrodrookie]

How about some more pics of the truck, underbody, and parts?

[tomlamb]

Congratulations on your new truck! I am going with the EZ wiring harness on my build also...

[Bigblue29]

I Gotta do it...

Love those trucks!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Okay, okay........geeez, what a grouch!

Here ya go...hope this works.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I took the first few pictures tonight in front of my house. She starts right up and runs excellent. The head and tail lights (ugly though they are) burn brightly. The cam is not stock but I have no idea what it is. I suspect a mild or "RV" cam as they call them. Just a bit of "lope" to it at idle. That picture of the rear end was before I pressure washed as much of the undercarriage as I could reach. It came out much cleaner than it shows in that shot. But you can at least see the installation.

I found the bench seat on Craigslist for $40! It is out of an '02 Dodge Ram van. It is only temporary to be able to move the truck around safely - better than the aluminum folding chair I had in there before!

Short story - I bought over $400 of rubber, windlace, tail lights, brackets, outside mirrors, etc from Jim Carter Truck Parts yesterday. I ended up ordering a wiring harness kit from EZ Wiring today. I also found the (apparently) uber rare rear window metal frame, cowl vent actuator and pristine stock seat frames/springs from a guy 40-50 miles away, so I will be able to sell the original seat frames/springs which aren't in as good of shape.

Last, the seller had a bunch of spare rusty parts laying around and I was asking questions. He GAVE me what he called the "Town & Country" optional electric horns which hang from a factory bracket that attaches to the struts that run from the cowl to the radiator support. I may not install them there because they will hang directly over the dressed 350. But still they are cool, long trumpet style which I suspect are damn loud. I'll restore them and find a use for them somewhere on the truck.

So guys, what do you think? The re-wire is delayed until the tail lights, signal controller and wiring kit come in but should be started by mid next week.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh, P.S. The tail gate is incorrect for this truck but I like it and plan to leave it. It is from a '39 and the correct '42-'46 ones are totally plain. I like the Chevrolet script much better. Opinions? The truck isn't original so I see no need to be true on the tail gate.

[hotrodrookie]

Sweet! Nice score on that seat, it looks great. I love Craigslist!
Any shots of the motor?
Interesting the way the rear is setup. Still in the stock cage and the frame seems to be sitting on the cage. How is the cage atached to the frame? Are the stock radius arms still on the jag? Im curious because I have one of these and for a while was thinking of putting it in my truck.

[Bigblue29]

I think you got a very good deal! That truck looks awesome!

[robin58]

I am sooooo darned jealous. You have to have the made the score of the year with this truck.

It is only temporary to be able to move the truck around safely - better than the aluminum folding chair I had in there before!

Reminds me of how I used to use a milk crate to sit on and drive mine around.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Motor shots? Did someone say, "..motor shots?.."


Like I said before, someone spent a lot of money on this truck and somehow lost it. I don't know if they lost interest or lost it in a divorce and had to get rid of it cheap, or what? Even if they did all the work themselves and had the Edelbrock Elite valve covers, chrome alternator, etc, sitting around the shop...did they hve a Jag rearend sitting around the shop? A cammed solid 350 and TH350 or 400 (still don't know which)? The truck has some surface rust of course but if it has cancer it is not in reaily apparent places.

Deal? Yeah, for $8K and as complete as it is, as nicely modified as it is, and as solidly as it runs I think its a HELL of a deal. Almost too good, which is why I ALMOST passd on it. I'd have been kicking myself if I had.

Seat - yeah, it'll work for awhile. If I decided to reupholster it and use it, one thing would have to be modified a bit. The Lokar tall shifter hits the seat front in Drive. Not quite enough to bump it out of gear just moving it and out of the driveway but I worry it might when I get the truck street-driveable.

Again, all opinions and advice especially if you have any knowledge about this ear truck is appreciated.

P.S. The driver's side engine picture was before the pressure washing. I still have LOTS of cleaning to do in there but it looked resaslly dusty and full of leaves originally. I'm thinking of ways to move the non-original batteral box down to the frame. Access is the issue but I am thinking of one of those drop down boxes. Anyone with experience? Thumbs up or down on them?

[OrrieG]

That's really nice. I'd bet the Jag rear was put in some time ago maybe by another owner, they were popular in the 80's. I thought they had a nice cast aluminum carrier, that one looks like stamped steel?? It is in the shape I hope my future projects are in, I'm done buying cars with rust issue just because I "can" do the body work. I enjoy the mechanicals more myself.

The drop battery boxes do work well if you don't need to access them all the time. I thought about one for mine but decided not to do it because I figured the one time I had a problem the truck would be sill deep in mud or snow. I grew up riding in my grandfathers 46 panel (the original Orrie G) to lumber yard and construction jobs with him. It is one of the trucks I learned most of my basic mechanic skills on.

[bensimmons_05]

looks sweet, and such a sweet deal too !!!!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys for all the compliments. I guess I should start a new thread covering individual improvements or this will get way too long and draw the moderator's attention?

Next up is wiring. I'll get a good shot of the "Before" so the "After" will look as impressive as I hope it does. Then rear window install, outside rearview mirror install, then door windlaces, then window frames, then...............

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

this will get way too long and draw the moderator's attention?

Don't think that will be a problem, look at Cal's thread, or mine for that matter, I'm at 5 pages and half way done.

[ChuckDriver]

I had this panel in my 36 Plymouth and it worked great. It was installed by the PO. Just another option.


http://www.affordablestreetrods.com/...werPanels1.htm

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Chuck. For the lead and for the link to the Affordable Streetrods site. I always thought "affordable" and "street rod" didn't belong in the same sentence!

I just ordered the EZ brand wiring harness with I think 12 fuses and 21 circuits(?). I think I paid $160.

Also, you gotta love Craigslist. I found a new in the box Edelbrock Elite 14" air cleaner to match the valve covers already on the truck for $25! I think Summit has them priced at $60-ish, so another great deal.

This truck seems to be coming along just fine; like I was MEANT to have it!