Is my Truck okay?

[ironroad9c1]

the PCV valve is just under the electronic spark control module (big square looking thing to the pass side of the air cleaner.) your PCV system is fine. its looked up correctly.

[cableguy0]

the hose size between what you circled and the brake booster itself is fine. its all the crap on the other side of that the reducers lines etc. that stuff is all too small. you need a vaccum nipple the size of the bigger hose. i cant remember where it ran factory. maybe someone else can post a picture of there stock setup to show you where the line should be going. In the meantime go smack the guy you bought the truck from for being a hack

[ironroad9c1]

Originally Posted by cyberpine

to be clear, you are talking about this being way too busy? I suspect this work was done when the performance intake was added.

Is the house gauge good enough?

Thanks!

yes, you can remove that and put a nipple in the port in the intake that is plugged just under where it goes into the carb, and put a cap on the port you have on the TB. there use to be a hard like that hooked up there and ran to the back of the intake for the brake line.
Sorry the text is so small.

[cyberpine]

Thanks Iron, Looks like I've got some work to do.

Will take things apart tonight to see how deep the wormhole is and what my options might be.

If this fixes my brake issue I want paypal accounts for you guys. seriously.

[cableguy0]

there ya go. pull that brass plug out of the intake and get a 3/8's nipple or a fitting similar to the one in the picture that you can screw a steel line into

[cableguy0]

it will fix it but thats not needed.

[cyberpine]

If I can find an available port I'll likely end up doing something like this.

Presuming I need to keep that little Filter.

[cableguy0]

i doubt your going to have the port back there but right under where that line is hooked now theres a port on the front of your current intake exactly where the stock one one is in the pic. just take the plug out and go to the auto parts store and get a nipple to fit the hose

[cyberpine]

Well.. it must have been an optical illusion in the prior picture because after going back I was surpised to see that the brake intake is the only line going into that port.

Also, after further inspection, the brake intake line had a plastic piece that was basically loose.



took all the pieces in the middle out and if I wanted to stay on that port, I'd need about 6 inches of 3/8 female to (i think) 1/4 female somehow.



There's another plugged port right below and it's the only one I see, but why change?





Thanks again.

[cyberpine]

I'm now wondering what they might have used those bigger ports for that I can swap with the brake intake?

[ironroad9c1]

Originally Posted by cyberpine

I'm now wondering what they might have used those bigger ports for that I can swap with the brake intake?

the port your line was attached to was used for the thermac on the aircleaner or the Charcoal canister. you need to plumb into the plugged port just under the tbi unit, , and you can take that filter off.

[cyberpine]

sorry, you are talking about the the only plugged port that's in my picture right?

Also, why are you saying I can remove the filter?

Thanks.

[billnorman]

When you talk about that "filter", I hope you are not referring to the one way vacuum valve in-line with the vacuum source. Without that valve, if the engine stalls, you have no brake boost. Be cautious.

[cyberpine]

Originally Posted by billnorman

When you talk about that "filter", I hope you are not referring to the one way vacuum valve in-line with the vacuum source. Without that valve, if the engine stalls, you have no brake boost. Be cautious.

I just went to the autopart, according to the part number it's a filter. I took it out and am able to blow and suck from either direction. What you described was happening to me though, but I suspect because there was a break in the line.

http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=179-983

I took that nipple out, it appears to be a 1/2 inch thread which is perfect, but my local autozone did not have a fitting for it. What might be a good source for this?

[billnorman]

Any builder supply store such as Loew's or Home Depot has fittings usually as well as hardware stores. The test of a brake booster used to be, with engine off, pump the brakes slowly 6 or 7 times. You should have a hard high pedal. Hold the pedal down. Then start the engine the pedal should fall. All talk aside, there must be a one way valve somewhere in that line, maybe at the booster to hold vacuum if the engine fails. All the above is freely given advice and not guaranteed as for your safety, just blather. i.e. if you kill yourself or someone else, don't sue me.

[cableguy0]

the plastic valve that is attatched to the brake booster is the one way valve. that black piece near the throttle body is a filter. the one way valve is available in the help section at any auto parts store. i would bet autozone has the fitting the problem is going to be finding someone that works there that actually knows where they are. advance auto also will have them.

[cyberpine]

I found the 3/8 Brass fitting at home depot and am thinking of dropping that filter since I can only wonder what good it's doing and it's $25 to replace it.

My problem now is finding a rubber plug for the port I was using before. No sign of it at AutoZone, Pepboys or HomeDepot.

Sorry about all the play by play. I only have about 30 minutes a day to muck with the truck and I spend the rest of the day thinking about the next step. I suspect one day all this detail will help somebody else. Or perhaps it will only serve to sort number one to anybody who might happen to search for "is my truck okay" in google which is actually how i've been finding the entry.

Thank again.

[cableguy0]

Help section is your friend. pep boys and autozone both have them just dont ask the guys at the counter. The help stuff is in a red package and you should be able to get an assortment of vaccum caps. also there will be a section with vaccum tees/nipples etc near the Help section.Also autozone should have a section with chrome/performance junk there will be vaccum nipples in there too.. heres the link for the vac caps http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...brandName=Help they have them hanging on the shelf

[cyberpine]

Originally Posted by ironroad9c1

Unplug the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat houseing and see what it does, TBis are real sensitive to bad temp sending units, also , if you ever install a new one, do not use thread tape, use the paste, the Tape will not let the sender ground to the engine and will make the computer think its not plugged in. make sure you unhook the wire for setting the timing, other wise the computer will compensate for you just moving the distributor. And yes you need to remove the plug under the brake vac line and put a nipple there and run the hose to that.

Iron,

I just took another 10 minute drive and when I got back same idleing back and forth. I disconnect the green connector BELOW and the engine runs steady. Is that the collant temp sensor and what does this mean?



Cable, I connected the brake cannister to larger port and plugged the little one and my break problem went away. You guys rock! Thank you. If you guys need anything from down here in South Florida, just say the word.



Side note, I've discovered I've got a big ass crack in exhaust manifold. I was considering an exhaust upgrade anyways. I'm looking for something realy loud and throaty. Any economical way to go with open headers? I've been watching some youtube videos of guys with similar trucks and open and headers and love that . This is not my daily driver and I'm just looking for something that gets more attention. I'm 41 but I'm wanna feel 16 when I'm driving this thing if you know what I mean.



Thanks again guys, really do apprecaite your help and expertise!!!

[cableguy0]

Trust me you dont want open headers. you can make plenty of noise with a full exhaust. headers to flowmasters dumping in front of the rear tire will be plenty loud. its hard to drive with open headers for any length of time. the sound level and vibrations literally hurt your head just because of the sound levels. that green plug is the map sensor. if you unplugged it and your issue went away replace it. get one from gm though the aftermarkets arent all that reliable. also the map sensor could cause your pinging issue as well.

[Benelli]

Do not run Open headers. Some guys will tell you that it'll burn up your valves, now I'm not sure if it will or not but your head will hurt for days, and your neighbors will hate you. Also, a few old dirt-track guys mentioned if you idle it long enough it'll heat up your automatic transmission, and from the sounds yours is either going out or could use a fluid and filter replacement. Another thing with opens, is that it's illegal, you could get a "fix it" ticket. And yet another, all of that CO2 is going under the truck, and possibly into the cab. If you're looking for loud, my suggestion is short glass-packs with 3 or 4 inch exhaust tips.

It looks to be a pretty good truck, good luck with it. If you have anymore questions don't be afraid to post 'em!

[cableguy0]

Open headers wont hurt the motor but you will literally lose a couple levels of your hearing. i have a good bit more motor than what your running but im running headers with about 30 inches of pipe into flowmaster 40 series to a 45 degree elbow dumping right in front of the rear wheel on an angle. its loud enough that people wont sit next to me with there windows down and it will set off an alarm 50 feet away.

[cyberpine]

Probably right. Looking for reasonable economic option. My truck is just a 305 (87 R10 (c10) TBI), but I see potential for a nice sound. would you recommend headers directly to a flowmaster 40 or super 40 with no Cat?

I don't need anything too fancy for the headers.. how's this only $89.




30055 - JEGS Tubular Headers

directly out to two seperate flowmaster super 40s. The flowmasters are 90 a pop.. any other cheaper alternative.

What can I expect labor on installing this setup cost me. I'd do the headers myself, suspect most muflter shop don't not do that right?

Cable, you got video your truck with that set up?

Thanks.

[cableguy0]

it will be cheaper if you hang the headers yourself and drive it over to the muffler shop. there are some knock off flowmasters that run less than half. they are actually made by flowmaster but are 2nds or blems meaning a weld isnt perfect or something similar. call the local exhaust shops and get quotes. tell em what you wanna do and they can throw prices at you. they might be able to sell your mufflers and pipe for a good price. as far as headers go. cheaper isnt always better. cheaper headers have thing flanges and are prone to leaking. heddmans with the ball flange seem to seal really good. your best bet is to call the local muffler shop and get quotes for running it different ways. out the back or in front of the rear wheel and also behind the rear wheel. get prices with and without mufflers. you could run the regular flowmaster 40 series and will be just fine they are cheaper than the super 40's

[cyberpine]

Sorry had another thread already open on the Manifold / headers question. Now considering summit products for the headers and mulflers. Anybody got any experiece with those products.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...27#post3575627