How hard is it to shorten? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

crazy longhorn · 03-23-2003, 06:49 PM

I dont call myself a pro, but am a hobby welder/fab "geek". I agree, if the weld has good pentration, it shouldnt be a problem grinding it smooth. after you plate or box the inside, you have all the strenght you need....crazyL

79GMC454C35 · 03-23-2003, 11:18 PM

why dont you "V" the inside of the frame. Weld from the inside out. Grind the out side penetration smooth. Then "Box" the area 8" or so on both sides of the splice. This way the box hides the weld, & makes the frame stronger. It will also be less work because you will have less grinding to do. And, you will not have the splice in the back of your head when you jump off a curb to chase down a hooker.

Notford · 03-24-2003, 04:04 AM

If the weld penetration is correct(good weld), you can prep the weld flush. Do not butt the frame sections, fab up a slipfit.

*1FaastC10* · 03-24-2003, 10:07 PM

where did that hooker part come from?

bretthan · 04-15-2003, 10:12 PM

I don't think shortening frames is prohibited by law, at least not in canada

, because you look in the phone book, and there are lots of companies that shorten big rig frames. I'm guessin that its the same for pickups.

chevykid04 · 04-19-2003, 05:53 PM

yeah i live in wisconsin , they allow quite a bit, except lifting

, anyways, i think im gonna look for a swb this summer, then sand it down , redo the bed and tub it , then worry bout the frame, all i need is the funding....

dmnall · 04-20-2003, 01:35 AM

well the question I have since I am going to be shortening my frame soon.. I have heard that the strongest way to shorten the frame is use the 45 degree method and bringing in the frame together instead of doing Efab's method... So Which method is better Step Method that Efab used or 45 degree method that I heard that Early Classic used ???

Blue Beard · 04-20-2003, 09:44 AM

Pickup the classic truck issue, sure to help with the article in it. Maybe its on the web.

Dreaminator · 04-20-2003, 10:22 PM

Interesting comments. Are you also going to C notch the frame? Mine is C notched with four inch lowered coils and I worry a bit about penard bar and the angle when I really get on it.

Jesse 67 c-10 · 04-21-2003, 01:48 AM

I would say you had better be a damn good welder before you grind away your welds to try and hide them. just think what could happen if your frame broke while driving! if your good grind the outside, leave the inside and box it good. If its stronger than before, bonus! if its weaker your screwed.

TooMany2count · 04-26-2003, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by john j
OK kid, before you start all the cutting and snipping you SHOULD check the law in your state about welded frames!!

cannt say if its LEGAL or not to to weld on the frames BUT it would make sence to me that it should be ALRIGHT to do it because, all the sub-frames under the new cars are WELDED, the frames under all of the older ones (could name quite a few if you like) are welded & IF its not legal then I guess all those companies that makes frames for the street rods & trucks should be out of business cause they're ALL WELDED together and what about all those body shops that do frame repairs on those cars & truck. AS long as its done correctly there WILL NEVER BE A PROBLEM WITH IT, BUT just like any other frame, if it rusts badly the yes replace or repair it NOW....just my 2cents...joe

03-23-2003, 11:18 PM	#27
79GMC454C35 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Arizona Posts: 115	frame welding why dont you "V" the inside of the frame. Weld from the inside out. Grind the out side penetration smooth. Then "Box" the area 8" or so on both sides of the splice. This way the box hides the weld, & makes the frame stronger. It will also be less work because you will have less grinding to do. And, you will not have the splice in the back of your head when you jump off a curb to chase down a hooker.

04-15-2003, 10:12 PM	#30
bretthan Damn those ricers Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Canada Posts: 51	I don't think shortening frames is prohibited by law, at least not in canada , because you look in the phone book, and there are lots of companies that shorten big rig frames. I'm guessin that its the same for pickups. __________________ 1994 Chevy Cheyenne C1500 ext.cab s/box Nothin special right now, just got a 350 with no cat. converter, and a magnaflow muffler In God We Trust, Vengeance is Mine, Sayeth the Lord, NO FEAR! Indian Larry 1949-2004

04-19-2003, 05:53 PM	#31
chevykid04 4 speed, hurst shiftin Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Hudson, Wi Posts: 406	yeah i live in wisconsin , they allow quite a bit, except lifting , anyways, i think im gonna look for a swb this summer, then sand it down , redo the bed and tub it , then worry bout the frame, all i need is the funding.... __________________ Shane 1970 Chevy C10

04-20-2003, 01:35 AM	#32
dmnall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Goleta, CA Posts: 505	well the question I have since I am going to be shortening my frame soon.. I have heard that the strongest way to shorten the frame is use the 45 degree method and bringing in the frame together instead of doing Efab's method... So Which method is better Step Method that Efab used or 45 degree method that I heard that Early Classic used ??? __________________ 1968 C10 Truck LWB Fleetside 1968 C10 Truck SWB Stepside 1994 K2500 Ext Cab Fleetside 2008 Honda Civic Si lease

04-20-2003, 09:44 AM	#33
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	Pickup the classic truck issue, sure to help with the article in it. Maybe its on the web. __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

03-23-2003, 06:49 PM	#26
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	I dont call myself a pro, but am a hobby welder/fab "geek". I agree, if the weld has good pentration, it shouldnt be a problem grinding it smooth. after you plate or box the inside, you have all the strenght you need....crazyL

03-24-2003, 04:04 AM	#28
Notford Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 10	If the weld penetration is correct(good weld), you can prep the weld flush. Do not butt the frame sections, fab up a slipfit.

03-24-2003, 10:07 PM	#29
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	where did that hooker part come from?

04-20-2003, 10:22 PM	#34
Dreaminator Dreaminator Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma Posts: 156	Interesting comments. Are you also going to C notch the frame? Mine is C notched with four inch lowered coils and I worry a bit about penard bar and the angle when I really get on it. __________________ The Dreaminator Daily Driver 1971 Cheyenne 10 Lwb Tilt/Tac 402 .030 TH400.

04-21-2003, 01:48 AM	#35
Jesse 67 c-10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Posts: 599	I would say you had better be a damn good welder before you grind away your welds to try and hide them. just think what could happen if your frame broke while driving! if your good grind the outside, leave the inside and box it good. If its stronger than before, bonus! if its weaker your screwed. __________________ Edmonton, Alberta, 67 c-10, Long fleet, front disks, 5 lug rear end, 327 with Vortechs, edlbrock manifold, comp cams XE 256, 600cfm carb. Backed by a getrag 5 speed and 1 piece driveshaft. 1993 Dihatsu Hijet Jumbo cab 4x4, currently converting to battery electric power.



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