Electrical gurus, wht am I missing?!?!?

[keith61760]

What did you have to rewire on the starter? I was on the fence about a new battery but reading that it worked for you I think that may be what I need to do. I was debating the Optima's just not sure which one to get.

[qu1cks1lver56]

I'd get a yellow top if you're going with an optima. The red tops are fine, but the price difference isnt that much and the yellow top is a much better battery. The red tops don't like to get drained down, and then they're hard to get charged back up and maintain that charge. The yellow tops are deep cycles so they can be discharged and they'll still charge back up fine.

[Jonboy]

I didn't have to rewire anything on the starter. The Alternator wiring was all jacked up, though. The 95 LT1 uses a CS130 alternator (w/external fan), so it was not plug and play with the original truck wiring. It needs switched power at the brown wire (L terminal on plug), and the large red wire (S terminal- I think) goes to the charging post on the back of the alternator. Run a heavy gauge wire from the charging post to the positive cable, and done.

I got a red top Optima. I am actually planning on driving the truck regularly, so it shouldn't get discharged from sitting (hopefully). I was going to drive it to work this morning, but thought I woudl drive it this weekend before I tempted 30 miles of rush hour traffic, just in case.

Keith, I went with the Optima kind of out of self defense. I talked to a pretty seasoned auto electrical guy, and he suggested Interstate or Optima batteries. I bought mine at Sam's Club for $139, but they had Interstates there for $79, with dual posts. I have never had an Optima, so I thought this would be a good chance to try one. I would shy away from the Delco batteries.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

I didn't have to rewire anything on the starter. The Alternator wiring was all jacked up, though. The 95 LT1 uses a CS130 alternator (w/external fan), so it was not plug and play with the original truck wiring. It needs switched power at the brown wire (L terminal on plug), and the large red wire (S terminal- I think) goes to the charging post on the back of the alternator. Run a heavy gauge wire from the charging post to the positive cable, and done.

I got a red top Optima. I am actually planning on driving the truck regularly, so it shouldn't get discharged from sitting (hopefully). I was going to drive it to work this morning, but thought I woudl drive it this weekend before I tempted 30 miles of rush hour traffic, just in case.

Keith, I went with the Optima kind of out of self defense. I talked to a pretty seasoned auto electrical guy, and he suggested Interstate or Optima batteries. I bought mine at Sam's Club for $139, but they had Interstates there for $79, with dual posts. I have never had an Optima, so I thought this would be a good chance to try one. I would shy away from the Delco batteries.

The CS-130 needs the resistance of a warning lamp on the L-circuit to work right. GM sells a pigtail with a resistor built into it that can take the place of that warning lamp connection. Hot wiring the L-terminal may damage your expensive alternator. It is probably making it run full field all the time the way you have it connected.

[69BBsuburban]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

I got a red top Optima. I am actually planning on driving the truck regularly, so it shouldn't get discharged from sitting (hopefully). I was going to drive it to work this morning, but thought I woudl drive it this weekend before I tempted 30 miles of rush hour traffic, just in case.

Good deal....as most folks do not realize that deep cycle batteries are MEANT to be discharged way down before recharging, they don't last as well in constant charging applications such as cars/trucks. They are for electric scissorlifts and forklifts, electric boat trolling motors, extra batts to run a winch on yer 4x4, etc....

[Jonboy]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

The CS-130 needs the resistance of a warning lamp on the L-circuit to work right. GM sells a pigtail with a resistor built into it that can take the place of that warning lamp connection. Hot wiring the L-terminal may damage your expensive alternator. It is probably making it run full field all the time the way you have it connected.

Do you have a PN for that by any chance?

Edit: We had a plug in stock for around $70 list. Painless shows a plug (PN30707- w/resistor) fr $17 list (@ Summit Racing). I am asking because I have never done this, but how hard is it to put the resistor in the switched power line? Painless shows an 82 ohm, 5 watt resistor is needed. Does this just Solder in place? Can I just get one from Radio Shack or somewhere similar and wire it in, or would a bulb and socket of some kind be better?

[Jonboy]

I went ahead and grabbed a lamp pigtail with a 194 bulb in it. Will this offer enough resistance? I struck out finding the correct resistor this afternoon.

[spinem]

HUMMMM

well good to hear that the new battery is workn, gettn 3 bad batts is not un common, ive gotten 2 bad ones and 3 bad alt's.... everything is chickity-china these days.

if you have points, check the brown wire comming off the harness..... chevy slpits the voltage when turning over, and changes it back to 12v as its running,
IDK y chevy did this, but its irritating, hei is a must.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by spinem

HUMMMM

well good to hear that the new battery is workn, gettn 3 bad batts is not un common, ive gotten 2 bad ones and 3 bad alt's.... everything is chickity-china these days.

if you have points, check the brown wire comming off the harness..... chevy slpits the voltage when turning over, and changes it back to 12v as its running,
IDK y chevy did this, but its irritating, hei is a must.

IIRC you have it backwards, it gives full voltage while cranking (to supply more spark help start the engine easier) then the voltage is dropped via resistor when it is running. If not it will fry the points.

[keith61760]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Do you have a PN for that by any chance?

Edit: We had a plug in stock for around $70 list. Painless shows a plug (PN30707- w/resistor) fr $17 list (@ Summit Racing). I am asking because I have never done this, but how hard is it to put the resistor in the switched power line? Painless shows an 82 ohm, 5 watt resistor is needed. Does this just Solder in place? Can I just get one from Radio Shack or somewhere similar and wire it in, or would a bulb and socket of some kind be better?

Jon-The painless plug is the same one I used in my truck. It was easy to connect the resistor. I ordered it from Summit. I am pretty sure I used splices on mine. The directions were pretty good for installing it. I have the serp setup on my 77 and I am pretty sure thats the same alternator I have.

I think I am going to go with the Optima as well. It seems to have worked for you and it seems we have the same issue.