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Old 02-07-2010, 09:08 PM   #26
hicktownhotrodder
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Re: Broke the rearend.

the ol' six popper actually broke somethin? its alright, dual wheels, a four speed and my right foot broke the mount that the bellhousing bolts to the frame. all the sudden it started running weird.....
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:14 PM   #27
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Re: Broke the rearend.

Several things here:

Burnouts on a peg leg axle will tear up the diff in no time. The spiders spin around the center pin at tremendous speed, they were never designed for that and will fail sooner rather than later. Don't do burnouts until you get a limited slip.

Most likely you broke the pinion gear yoke as well. One of the little "nubs" that align the caps underneath the u-bolts likely sheared, but maybe you got lucky. The truck 12 bolt will survive some abuse, just stay away from big tires and clutch dumps or you will continue to break parts. If it ever starts wheel hopping on you, back off immediately or prepare for more internal damage.

10 bolt is a pretty decent axle, actually. The 88 and up with 30 spline axles are stronger than a truck 12 bolt because of the previously mentioned larger pinion diameter. The difference between 8 7/8 ring gear and 8 4/8 ring gear not all that significant. The 12 bolt ring gear bolts are smaller diameter and right hand thread compared to the larger diameter 10 bolts which are left hand thread so run without lock washers. I have built several that survived seasons of 1/4 mile passes in Camaros and Firebird running in the mid 10's. Most of a bolts bad rap is from the early 8.2 found in Camaros, Novas and Chevelles in the 60's and then with the 7.5 in the Vega, late 70's and 80's G-bodies as well as the F-bodies.

The 10 bolt is certainly NOT an upgrade. Cheapest way out if you cannot re-weld yours is to just replace the whole thing.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:21 PM   #28
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Re: Broke the rearend.

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Originally Posted by corvette6698512 View Post
So I found out its a lot harder to twist that back to the stock location then just "twist it back". I think I will have to put a chain around the yoke and under the diff and see if I can pull that back and twist it down.
Yea, those tube are PRESSED into the center before they are plug welded! I had a bud do the same thing to an old van, & we just replaced the rear diff....if you figure how to pull it back into place, please share to info crazyAL
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:32 AM   #29
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Re: Broke the rearend.

Also, the tubes are steel, & the center is cast...that takes a nickle rod to weld, & by all rights should be pre-heated before welding , so the weld doesnt crack when it cools.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:34 AM   #30
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Re: Broke the rearend.

Ooh... Good to know. Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:27 AM   #31
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Re: Broke the rearend.

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so i found out its a lot harder to twist that back to the stock location then just "twist it back". I think i will have to put a chain around the yoke and under the diff and see if i can pull that back and twist it down.
sorry i was confused i guess. I thought you broke the axel perches to the axel tubes....... It will be more than a 15 minute job. john
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:18 PM   #32
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Re: Broke the rearend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike C View Post
10 bolt is a pretty decent axle, actually. The 88 and up with 30 spline axles are stronger than a truck 12 bolt because of the previously mentioned larger pinion diameter. The difference between 8 7/8 ring gear and 8 4/8 ring gear not all that significant. The 12 bolt ring gear bolts are smaller diameter and right hand thread compared to the larger diameter 10 bolts which are left hand thread so run without lock washers. I have built several that survived seasons of 1/4 mile passes in Camaros and Firebird running in the mid 10's. Most of a bolts bad rap is from the early 8.2 found in Camaros, Novas and Chevelles in the 60's and then with the 7.5 in the Vega, late 70's and 80's G-bodies as well as the F-bodies.

The 10 bolt is certainly NOT an upgrade. Cheapest way out if you cannot re-weld yours is to just replace the whole thing.
Good post. For the record... I'm not a 10-bolt hater. It's just as you stated... that a 10-bolt can be made to take high HP and torque... but you gotta dump some cash in them and do it right. Which in turn... most times a stock or mildly modified 12-bolt with some sort of traction device (posi-unit) is more cost effective.

Gary
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:04 PM   #33
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Re: Broke the rearend.

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Originally Posted by junkyardjohn View Post
sorry i was confused i guess. I thought you broke the axel perches to the axel tubes....... It will be more than a 15 minute job. john
x2

Quote:
Originally Posted by GASoline71 View Post
Good post. For the record... I'm not a 10-bolt hater. It's just as you stated... that a 10-bolt can be made to take high HP and torque... but you gotta dump some cash in them and do it right. Which in turn... most times a stock or mildly modified 12-bolt with some sort of traction device (posi-unit) is more cost effective.

Gary
x2


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Old 02-09-2010, 03:05 AM   #34
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Re: Broke the rearend.

I got the diff back to where its supposed to be, im picking up some nickel rod tomorrow and im going to give arc welding a try. Never done it, If i screw it up to bad, my buddy will take over. Im excited. I also noticed the center of the driveshaft bearng is toast. How do I replace it? Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:38 AM   #35
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Re: Broke the rearend.

I'd like to see more pictures of the damage where it needs to be welded if posible..
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:16 PM   #36
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Re: Broke the rearend.



You can see where the axle tube is pressed into the diff housing. That circle is like a big spot weld they use to hold it in place. There is one on the front and the back. I will probably end up putting a bead of weld around the edge of the diff housing to hold it still.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:19 PM   #37
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Re: Broke the rearend.

Did the tube slide out any?
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:13 AM   #38
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Re: Broke the rearend.

I dont think so. We got the diff straightened out and welded, But I dont know how well those welds will hold. I think I'll have to keep an eye out for another 12 bolt and take it easy on this one.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:37 AM   #39
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Re: Broke the rearend.

WOW I have never seen that before I couldn't understand what was broke from the other picture you posted but now I can see what you mean. I was changing the oil in my diff this weekend and I was looking at those circle spots and thought they were fill plugs because I had never changed the oil myself and I din't know where the fill hole was but now I know.. Thanks for the extra photo..
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:13 PM   #40
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Re: Broke the rearend.

How much should a shop charge to get a carrier bearing pressed on? Is it something I could do myself?
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:47 PM   #41
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Re: Broke the rearend.

That rear end is tweaked so bad it will never hold up with any type of repair. Your dealing with some big time forces on that rear end and if it is tweaked slightly out of alignment it will fail.

You don't want that rear end coming apart on the freeway or anything and 12 bolts are cheap.

....but if it does work it would be cool.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:48 AM   #42
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Re: Broke the rearend.

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How much should a shop charge to get a carrier bearing pressed on? Is it something I could do myself?
If you bring them the driveshaft and the carrier bearing, 10 bucks. You can do it yourself though. You can pull and replace a u-joint right?

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Old 02-11-2010, 11:14 AM   #43
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Re: Broke the rearend.

have you opened the cover to check for damage like shavings or broken gears?
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:10 PM   #44
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Re: Broke the rearend.

Iv been driving the truck around without problems so far, but I really want to replace the rearend just to be safe. Ok, So if I find a 12 bolt from a later 5 lug truck, is it a quick change to put my 6 lug stuff on it? Or does it have to be a 6 lug to begin with? Im not losing my rally's lol.

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