5.3L DBW cruise hookup

[ls1nova71]

My vague statment wasn't meant to be a "how to" article, I was just stating what I had done.

But anyway, which part did you break? The wires that you pulled off, were they from the original 3 wire switch? All you need is the lever (the stalk, the black plastic part the switch goes in), the cover with the on/off/resume printed on it, and the small black slider portion of the switch (the part you physically move to turn it on, it has the white line on it). The actual switch (it's about an inch long and about 1/4 by 1/4, and has the four wires soldered onto it) you don't take apart. This is what you need from the later turn signal lever. I'm not home or I would post pictures of everything.

As long as you didn't completely destroy your original lever and you have those three main pieces, it should be fixable. If you broke the actual four wire switch (the small part with the wires soldered to it), PM me your shipping address and I'll send you another one, as I have alot of them because I pulled several apart looking for one with the longest wires on it. However they are all the same, they all have about 4 or 5 inches of wire on them.

[menace121978]

thanks man... you just made me feel like a real jerk i do apprieciate your offer and help. i'm going to go to pick in pull this morning to see what i can find. and btw, i was taking the 3 wire one apart while its still on the truck. tried to pull the wires out through the column. so pulling off the wires was my retarded mistake. i just need the 4 wire switch and i think it will be alright. i'll keep you updated

[ls1nova71]

Got your PM. I'm not home right now, but will be by sunday. If you can wait until then I'll post some pictures of how to do the whole thing, and I'll send you another switch.

[menace121978]

much appreciated man... i'll wait so i don't tear more stuff up

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by menace121978

i'm going to go to pick in pull this morning to see what i can find....

So did you find a switch? If not, here's one of the switches I have left over, along with some pics of how it comes apart and goes back together.

1- This is what the switch came from, 4th gen F body, but almost all later model GM cars are the same.

2- Pry out the set/coast button, it's just lightly pressed on, and remove the star washer part that holds the switch in. A small pick works best for this.

3- The star washer

4- The switch. Note it has 4 wires on it, and also note the position of the slider portion of the switch.

5- Pull the slider off, it's just sitting in there and easily comes off.

[ls1nova71]

6- This is the old lever, note it has only 3 wires.

7- Carefully pry this cover off.

8- Remove the slider part, notice how much smaller it is than the newer one, it's because of the positioning of the slider in the newer stalk, but comes off exactly the same.

9- Pry off the set/coast button

10- Now remove the star washer from your original.

[ls1nova71]

11- Pull out the old switch.

12- Bad pic, but it shows the old switch with 3 wires and the new with 4 wires.

13- Side by side comparison, switch is dimensionally the same.

14- Slide the switch back in.

15- Put slider back on.

[ls1nova71]

16- Re-install cover, you might have to glue this, I had to because it rattled around and annoyed me.

17- Put the star washer back in and install the set/coast button by pressing it on, just press a little harder than you would if you were using the cruise.

18- The original switch had about 18 inches of wire on it, where as the newer ones only have 5 or so. So I took another switch and used just the wires to lengthen them some. These should be soldered together. I also got the other side of the plug so you can unplug it should you ever need to remove the column.

Thats really all there is to it. It may seem like alot, but once you get started on it, you will see it's not all that difficult at all.

[menace121978]

thank you for the write up man! i never got the switch this weekend. i was hoping you had an extra that doesn't look too hard but it helps that the lever is off the column i think i can handle it

[Chevysdominate]

I'm installing cruise in my 65 at the moment and went to the wrecking yard and pulled a 4 wire stalk out of a 84 full size blazer. Its exactly like the 3 wire stalk shown. So if you look around you can find one that's all ready 4 wire. Nice write up if you can only find the 3 wire stalks.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Chevysdominate

I'm installing cruise in my 65 at the moment and went to the wrecking yard and pulled a 4 wire stalk out of a 84 full size blazer. Its exactly like the 3 wire stalk shown. So if you look around you can find one that's all ready 4 wire. Nice write up if you can only find the 3 wire stalks.

The problem with the lever out of the '84 is it will not bolt in an older column. In 1982 they went to the push in levers with the dimmer switch on the column. The 1981 lever screws on like all 67-72 trucks. The one you have will only work if you've installed a later column.
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[Clyde65]

Ls1, do you still have any converted switches you want to sell?

[Chevysdominate]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

The problem with the lever out of the '84 is it will not bolt in an older column. In 1982 they went to the push in levers with the dimmer switch on the column. The 1981 lever screws on like all 67-72 trucks. The one you have will only work if you've installed a later column.
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It's possible the blazer wasn't an 84, but I'll double check when i go back next week. This one definitely isn't a push on and is a four wire.

[ls1nova71]

That looks just like an '81 lever, but of the 15 or so that I've had, I have never seen a factory 4 wire one. What does it look like put together? What does the lettering look like?

Clyde65 I have a couple, but almost all the lettering is wkorn off of them.
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[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Chevysdominate

It's possible the blazer wasn't an 84, but I'll double check when i go back next week. This one definitely isn't a push on and is a four wire.

Hmmmm, well I guess you don't have to check it. I just went to the JY today, and found a 4 wire bolt on lever! It was in an '82 Chevy. So I guess the vans went to the push in type in '82, but the trucks didn't change until '84 or so? Odd beecause every lever I had ever pulled that was this type was from an '81. I always look at all years so it wasn't like I was just missing them by not looking. Strange the way things happen

!
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[TR65]

It is fairly easy to convert a later model 4 wire cruise switch to mount in our trucks by fabricating a lever.

Here is a link, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=324015

TR

[Ken Davis]

I have the four wire cruise control lever with the Blue, Red, Green, and Red wires. My DBW harness has two grey a dark blue and light blue wires. Which color wires from lever to harness.

[ls1nova71]

Is it a factory switch? Aftermarket switches usually require relays to reverse the switches. Can you post a pic of what you have?
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[clinebarger]

Diagrams to help....

[widewhite70]

Originally Posted by short-t

Ok here what I got from John at Speartech.




My Ididit cruise cont lever.

Do you still have this information? I've got an Ididit too and would like to see what you did.

[short-t]

Originally Posted by widewhite70

Do you still have this information? I've got an Ididit too and would like to see what you did.

After rechecking my Ididit cruise cont lever I found out it works the same as Ackattack's DD lever.. I ended up wiring it like he did in post #10. I still haven't tried it yet, when you check it with a multi meter it should work as advertised.

[Ken Davis]

I found out mine is a Dakota Digital. I will have to use the relay's. Thank you for the help.

[widewhite70]

Originally Posted by short-t

After rechecking my Ididit cruise cont lever I found out it works the same as Ackattack's DD lever.. I ended up wiring it like he did in post #10. I still haven't tried it yet, when you check it with a multi meter it should work as advertised.

Thank you!

[jks67ss396]

Bump for wiring clarification:

i finally found a 4 wire cruise lever that wasnt beat to hell and back. its from a 74 van. definitely factory looking. could be aftermarket, but it was ran inside the factory column, under the factory cover, under the factory wiring.

wires are red, green brown and yellow

after pulling the assembly apart, i ohmed everything out

red goes to the middle connector/appears to be 12V power

brown tied to red when slider is on/appears to be cruise on/off

green is the set speed push button. tied to red when slider is on, but not when speed button is pushed, ie normally closed/connected to 12V

yellow is only tied to red when slid to resume

unlike ackattack (post 8, when pushing the set speed/green wire, there is no contact with the yellow wire. obviously, when i do slide to resume, there is continuity between yellow and green because green is normally connected to red when cruise is on, and sliding to resume, contacts yellow to red, so by default, yellow and green are connected "through" the red wire, but thats not the same functionality as ackattack.


Since the LS DBW requires "set speed" pushbutton to be normally open, momentary close I too will use relay to invert the set speed functionality, but i believe the resume function is fine, so ill only use 1 relay.

some background for others wondering:
I wire relays a little different than Ackattack
I use pin 30 as relay "signal" power
i use 85 as relay control positive
i use 86 as relay control ground
87a would be normally closed (when relay is off, 87a and 30 are connected).
87 is only connected to 30 when the relay is energized.


So when relay is powered on (brown/cruise "on" wire will provide input power to relay... pin 30...only powered when cruise is on), the green set button (connected to relay 85, again only powered when cruise is on), will keep relay energized and the output set to 87 (which is connected to nothing) and only when green set button is pressed and the relay is de-energized, will the relay go back to pin 87a, and the path from 30 to 87a will be complete, sending 12V pulse to the set wire on the tac module

again, my cruise lever looks factory. id really like to know if GM ever used this "normally closed" set speed functionality or if its always been like ls1nova says

seems like others have found these same style levers, but i never saw their resolution...

i think this should work. let me know if there are any flaws in my thinking

thanks guys

[ls1nova71]

GM didn't have cruise with resume until '81, and all of them were normally open switches. If you got one from a 74, either someone has changed it with a newer one or its aftermarket. By the way you described it, it sounds like aftermarket. Does it look like the one I posted the pics of? Post a pic of yours so we can see what you've got.