At my wit's end

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Try swapping all the parts side to side & see if the problem remains on that side or follows the parts.

Except that the parts aren't interchangeable from passenger side to drivers side.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

Except that the parts aren't interchangeable from passenger side to drivers side.

You could swap the rotors & bearings to eliminate them from the equation, or continue guessing. . ......

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You could swap the rotors & bearings to eliminate them from the equation, or continue guessing. . ......

I had the same problem before and after I switched out the rotors and bearings.

[passthebuck]

Is there possibly a pinched hardline going to the bad wheel? Just throwing that one out there...

[SCOTI]

Ok....
Rubber line & caliper replaced multiple times yet problem still exists.
The rotor doesn't drag if the caliper is not connected.
After the 3rd caliper, it's doubtful you're that unlucky....

You're confident the bearings are correctly tightened so I would move further up the line. What about the hard line on that side from the prop valve to the rubber flex hose?

[raycow]

I'm sticking to my theory that the caliper mounting is tweaked somehow and causing the caliper to be cocked relative to the rotor. Check the pins first, because that's the easiest. Maybe you will get lucky and not have to replace the spindle.

Ray

[Ironangel]

What was the condition of the "replaced" calipers? Rebuilt? New? NOS,OEM,fresh from the junk yard? Were the pistons replaced? Were the bores and piston reseviors cleaned and reconditioned(honed)? New piston seals? I know youve replaced rotors and if they're well above the service limit along with new pads,that would push an old un-reconditioned piston into the hardened build-up beyond the "normal" operating range thus causing the piston to drag and fail to use the "full" operating range or stroke. Ever see what 40yr old DOT-3 turns into inside 40yr old calipers? Pull the caliper piston(s) out of their bores and tell us what you see behind them.

[54Caddy]

i Have the same problem on my truck took off the caliper on passenger side and noticed that bolt was over threaded, happened from over tightening and i replaced it with new bolts and same problem and my truck has all new stuff same as toddtheodd. I seen some longer bolts, the kit said for striped out threads but i dont know if thats what i need. Anybody have thoughts for me, and don't mean to thread jack you todd just frustrated over the same problem as you.

[VetteVet]

Interesting problem.
I think it's time to look at what you haven't changed if changing new parts hasn't fixed the problem and it was there before you started.

I would start out by pumping the brakes to extend the calipers and then let off the brakes. Then rotate the rotors to check for drag. If the right side drags and the left doesn't then open the right bleeder to relieve any residual fluid pressure and allow the caliper piston to retract. If that allows the rotor to rotate then you can look for kinked lines or faulty master cylinder. If it doesn't help then look for a mechanical problem as was suggested by Raycow.

[54Caddy]

ive bleed the brakes several times, and the right rotor still drags, i have no kinked lines any where, and the master cylinder wouldnt that make both fronts act weird??

[prairewolf]

mine would drag too,... 72 C-20, it was the grommet between master and booster, new parts did not need grommet between them... 68 C15(Todd) found the glitch for me.....it drove me nuts trying to find it..... I was actually thinking of converting to drum brakes to get passed it.
everything else was new. I got good at crawling under it with wrench and cracking bleeder screws open and closed..... passenger side would drag more than driver side but driver side was dragging a little too.

I had assumed the grommet was a dust boot so I re-used it.

the push rod between master and booster comes in different lengths too I guess and that can cause same type of glitch.

if none of this helped it helped me to finally vent about it.

thanks for listening.

kent

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by prairewolf

mine would drag too,... 72 C-20, it was the grommet between master and booster, new parts did not need grommet between them... 68 C15(Todd) found the glitch for me.....it drove me nuts trying to find it..... I was actually thinking of converting to drum brakes to get passed it.
everything else was new. I got good at crawling under it with wrench and cracking bleeder screws open and closed..... passenger side would drag more than driver side but driver side was dragging a little too.

I had assumed the grommet was a dust boot so I re-used it.

the push rod between master and booster comes in different lengths too I guess and that can cause same type of glitch.

if none of this helped it helped me to finally vent about it.

thanks for listening.

kent

Grommet? Anybody have a picture of this thing? I don't remember seeing a grommet one way or the other.

Had the brake hose off, and the caliper was still dragging.

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

Had the brake hose off, and the caliper was still dragging.

WAIT A MINUTE. Drags with the brake hose off? Then it has nothing to do with the hydraulic system!

So it has to be either the caliper itself, brake pads (perhaps the pads are casted wrong, too thick, uneven) or the backing plate/caliper bracket assembly is slightly bent? Or rotor/bearings/spindle.

I've had this happen and drove the car/truck for a few days, being sure to do a few hard stops at first to seat everything (sometimes this is also called "burnishing"). Then I recheck. Sometimes the problem went away on its own or got better. A little drag is normal for disc brakes (and I always hated that).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

Had the brake hose off, and the caliper was still dragging.

That should exclude the hydraulics. Sounds like you have an alignment issue between the caliper mounting & the rotor placement. Get new caliper guide pins and/or another spindle for that side.

[RichardJ]

As has been said, disc brakes do drag. Is the problem that one disc is dragging or is the real problem, that the other one isn't?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

As has been said, disc brakes do drag. Is the problem that one disc is dragging or is the real problem, that the other one isn't?

While disc brakes have residual pressure, they should allow the rotor to complete @ least one revolution before being dragged to a stop vs. mere inches (@ least all the ones I've worked with have) . . ....

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

My front right wheel is dragging. If I lift the truck up, and spin the wheel, it stops spinning again immediately. Not after spinning a couple of revolutions, but after a couple of inches.

What I haven't seen mentioned, is.... if the problem existed before, did the truck pull excessively to that side under normal driving/braking conditions?

[toddtheodd]

The truck sat for over a year before I replaced the motor in it. That was a couple of months ago.
I noticed when going over 65 that it sour smell hot, and I at first chalked it up as a new motor smell or something.
Then, after a while of not being able to find it, I lifted the front end and discovered that the right wheel was dragging. This was not an issue before the truck was parked.
Fast forward to now, and now you are caught up.
If I use a clamp to compress the caliper it spins freely. But hits the brakes and right back to dragging again.

[54Caddy]

I have the same problem as compressing the caliper in and it spins freely but once i apply the brakes its stuck again after the first try, what are you going to try next todd? Im going to take the hose off like you did and release the pressure and see if it still grabs.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

What was the condition of the "replaced" calipers? Rebuilt? New? NOS,OEM,fresh from the junk yard? Were the pistons replaced? Were the bores and piston reseviors cleaned and reconditioned(honed)? New piston seals? I know youve replaced rotors and if they're well above the service limit along with new pads,that would push an old un-reconditioned piston into the hardened build-up beyond the "normal" operating range thus causing the piston to drag and fail to use the "full" operating range or stroke. Ever see what 40yr old DOT-3 turns into inside 40yr old calipers? Pull the caliper piston(s) out of their bores and tell us what you see behind them.

I think the caliper piston is hanging up on build-up inside the bore and not fully relieving pressure. The spindle/caliper mounts may be tweeked and is not an issue until new pads and/or rotor are installed. Do keep us updated please.

[toddtheodd]

Calipers were "re-manufactured"

[Kayotic]

Good God... Crazy thought (I admit skimming this thread) but could the spindle pin be shot.

Maybe from overheating or something...

[beebster]

man, i'm dying to find out what the solution will be! LOL
keep us posted.

[54Caddy]

this **** is annoying my next move on my brake pull is putting another spindle on. I hope it fixes mine.

[toddtheodd]

I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the spindle... though if I do... I will use it as an excuse to get drop spindles.

[toddtheodd]

I must've gotten a defective caliper, because I replaced it... again... and it's all good now.

Though oddly enough, the good caliper had bolts that were about a centimeter too short, and the brass o-rings were too small as well.
Oh well though. It's all good now.