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Old 09-01-2010, 11:07 PM   #26
travis.vaughan
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

iv'e posted new replies if you didn't see them. pictures tommorow around lunch.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:05 AM   #27
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by travis.vaughan View Post
first look at the rear of your driver side front leaf shackle there is supposed to be a pointed steel bracket bolted a 1/4 inch from the spring if its not adjusted right the spring travels back to far which affects the steering greatly.

next you should get some 4 degree caster shims. they bolt to the bottom of the leaf spring to the center bolt you want the angle of the shim the thin side to the front or the back i cant remember right now.
The steel bracket you're describing is a safety recall item, came out in '71 and installed on all '72s. Along with a steel strap added in front of the left spring, it keeps the axle in place and the vehicle under control in the event of the front spring bushing bolt getting sheared off. Outside of this unlikely scenario, it has absolutely nothing to do with your steering.

Caster shims are one way to adjust your caster but use the 4 degrees if you need 4 degrees. Let the alignment shop tell you where your caster is to begin with, along with the condition of the rest of your front end.

Aftermarket lifts and poly spring bushings both introduce squirrelyness in your steering. The original bushings are infinitely stiffer, as are the stock springs (longitudinally). If you look down the front axle at the steering arm from the passenger side while someone else is turning the wheel back and forth, you'll wonder how you could control the truck at all. The whole axle rocks back and forth, storing energy in the spring and bushing, so it's a constant fight to drive straight. One solution is to go crossover, but that has it's own challenges.

Whatever the case, lift or otherwise, if your front end is tight and well aligned it should be more than manageable to drive so somethin aint right!
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Old 09-02-2010, 03:27 AM   #28
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

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Originally Posted by ChadGiles70 View Post
Some options that I am looking at is that the gear box is to tight or to loose. The Ball joints can be to tight as well so it didnt show up on the alignment. I paid $40 for the alignment. I would like to see some pictures of the shackle to see if thats the problem. ALso someone wrote that it could be the Drag link. I want to know exactly how they thing thats the problem. Please respond.
Without checking it out in person, all any of us can do is guess, and give you ideas to check out. I'm guessing drag link because I have had to replace it 3 times on mine over the years, and it's the only front end trouble I've ever had with mine. And yes I do keep them well greased. When new they came with a one piece link, but all I've ever been able to find are two piece with a turnbuckle in the middle. But I guess it's just as good. I think the last set ran about $80.00. Good luck, and hope you find the problem.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:17 AM   #29
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

71restorod and any others that dont have the steering problems. take the bracket in question off, its only two bolts. then take a long drive and reply back. THIS IS ONLY A TEST. LETS DO IT FOR CHADGILES70.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:23 AM   #30
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

Heres pics of the part.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:30 AM   #31
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

If you have a 4" lift or more you need 4 degrees of caster or more. The leaf spring stop stopped the crazy steering problem that me and chadgiles70 have. My front end and steering wheel also would start shaking real bad after hitting a bump the four degree caster shims fixed that.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:59 PM   #32
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

check the rag joint on the steering box. It may be loose, torn, or just totally FUBAR!
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:24 PM   #33
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

I agree with 71RestoRod completely, I have never even had the bracket on my blazer and my steering works perfectly, the Blazer does not drift or shake in any way... I have read at least one post that discussed the bracket and everyone was in agreement that it was for recall purposes only. Hope this helps. BTW, I also have a 4" lift.
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:34 PM   #34
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

I have a 6 inch life and those brackets are still on there with no problems id check the rag joint for sure... blu70k5 does your blazer have an aluminum roll bar in it?
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:14 PM   #35
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

FRENCH,
No, I don't currently have a roll bar but I'd like to get a mild cage eventually.

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Old 09-03-2010, 08:51 PM   #36
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

I assume it is a 4wd? IF it is a 2wd very low caster number will make them do this. My experience is 2 wd. if you have negative caster these guys will wander? In my shop, I have a rule of thumb - - - get as much positive caster as you can, without running out of bolt on the control arms. We like about .5 caster spread from the right side to the left. HERE WE GO
right side is 1.0+ I would like the left side about .5+ caster. This will correct for the crown of the road. Meaning that Technically the truck SHOULD pull left? But the road crown will make it drive straight.

I have seen our old tired truck have -2 degrees camber because of suspension drops and old age
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:58 PM   #37
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by travis.vaughan View Post
71restorod and any others that dont have the steering problems. take the bracket in question off, its only two bolts. then take a long drive and reply back. THIS IS ONLY A TEST. LETS DO IT FOR CHADGILES70.
Travis,

The purpose of the recall bracket shouldn't be taken lightly. Don't attempt to adjust it too close to the spring. You don't ever want that bracket to touch the spring, especially with lifted and arched springs which, when flatened under compression, will build up huge stresses if confined. You could easily bust a spring or knock loose the rivets from the front spring mount. Sort of defeats the purpose of the recall, doesn't it.

I'm not blowing smoke, simply dispelling the misinformation. Here are a couple of pictures for you. The first is out of my webshots album taken of the buildup back in 2004 when I removed the recall strap from the front spring mount along with the rear bracket. I had to remove the strap to make room for the Alcan military wrapped springs but the military wrap basically serves the same purpose. The truck was finished in '05 and I've got over 25k miles on it now if that qualifies as a long trip. I live in the mountains and built the truck for canyon roads. It handles great.

The second is a phone pic taken a few minutes ago. You'll notice the recall bracket's gone. Also, here's an example of a 4" lift w/o the need for caster shims. The 9-pack Alcan springs are fairly flat so they don't wrap the axle forward. The longer ORD shackles also contribute to a positive caster which sits at about 4+ degrees total, right where it needs to be but I didn't guess... I had it measured. IMO, those cheep aluminum caster shims are dangerous anyway. If you need shims, buy the steel ones after dialing it in and weld them on.


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Old 09-08-2010, 11:57 PM   #38
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

this is out of the 1972 chevrolet 10-30 series repair manual.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:24 AM   #39
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

it is NOT a recall item !
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:26 AM   #40
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

1/8" if necessary. unless you use military springs?
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:00 PM   #41
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Re: Driving straight is harder then it looks, problem.

Travis,

I'm pleased that your repair manual specifies that the bracket should be adjusted both with the spring flattened (weight on vehicle) and so as not to touch the spring; however, please note that the adjustment applies to a stock vehicle, not one with aftermarket springs.

I pulled the following information off of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) web site. They maintain a database of safety recalls going back to 1966. Unfortunately, their collection of technical service bulletins weren't as inclusive.

From their safety recall database:

NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER
71V139000

VEHICLE/EQUIPMENT MAKE
GMC, CHEVROLET

VEHICLE/EQUIPMENT MODEL
JIMMY, K10, K10 BLAZER, K1500, K20, K2500

MODEL YEAR, 9999 IF UNKNOWN or N/A
1969, 1970, 1971

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
SUSPENSION:FRONT:SPRINGS:COIL SPRINGS

MANUFACTURER THAT FILED DEFECT/NONCOMPLIANCE REPORT
GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

VEHICLE, EQUIPMENT OR TIRE REPORT
V

POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED
124000

DATE OWNER NOTIFIED BY MFR
19710818

RECALL INITIATOR (MFG/OVSC/ODI)
MFR

MANUFACTURERS OF RECALLED VEHICLES/PRODUCTS
GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

REPORT RECEIVED DATE
19710819

RECORD CREATION DATE
19791012

RECALL NOTES
CHEVROLET CAMPAIGN NO 71-C-12, GMC CAMPAIGN NO 71-C-9. ALL 4- WHEEL DRIVE. POSSIBILITY THAT UNDER CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS FRONT SPRING MAY BREAK NEAR FRONT ATTACHMENT ON STEERING COLUMN SIDE. BREAKAGE COULD CAUSE VEHICLE TO VEER TOWARD LEFT IN LEFT-HAND DRIVE VEHICLES AND TO RIGHT IN RIGHT-HAND DRIVE VEHICLES.

Hopefully this will put the recall debate to rest.
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