56 pro touring build

[hotrod1]

Hey Chevyrestoguy. The firewall doner that I have has a few cages that I will be using. My cab is also missing them. In fact, I had to weld the a hex nut that was used (instead of the original cage and nut) to the cab to get the bolt off. It was a rusted mess. I just got lucky that I was able to get this piece of a truck. Can I send you pictures and measurements to help you recreate one?

If you want to see a unbelievable protouring truck that does beat the Camaro's and Corvettes, check out this build. This guy went over the top.

http://hrjinc.com/projects_shop_57_truck.php

[OKGMC4]

I love the HRJ truck If you like that one check this one out...completely different direction but just as many flawless executions...

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...ls.php?album=3

[hotrod1]

OKGMC4

Oh My goodness. That thing is beautiful. He went to an unbelievable level with the performance build. I talked to him and he is a real nice guy and has a lot of knowledge.

Thanks for the link.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

I love the HRJ truck If you like that one check this one out...completely different direction but just as many flawless executions...

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...ls.php?album=3

Man I saw that truck at good guys and its amazing. The paint looks like black glass. He had a nova there also and man all I could say was wow.

[cajundragger]

this is a truck we're doing to handle well and make great power.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=381253

its a '56 as well.

[chevyrestoguy]

Can I send you pictures and measurements to help you recreate one?

That would be outstanding. Even if there's one on the donor that you're not going to use that's got some damage, even that would be cool. The biggest thing is to make new "cage". The nut looks like a piece of 1/2" steel that's been tapped to a 7/16-24. My plan is to take an existing cage and fold it out flat and then have my buddy laser cut that pattern. Then, I'll fold the edges and install the nut.

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...ls.php?album=3

I saw that truck at SEMA. It's incredible. They've got a cool website with some great construction shots of projects in their shop. They do amazing work. When I need to get my "under construction fix", I'll check out their site and my favorite builder, Rad Rides by Troy www.radrides.com/ . Those guys are the best I have ever seen.

[hotrod1]

I was looking for a gauge set that would give me all the information that I need to see at the same time as giving me a tach that is big enough to really judge the engine performance. I talked to Dakota Digital and he said that they are in he process of doing this dash set for the tri 5 truck.

http://www.phoenixtuning.com/zenstor...image&pID=3669

It is either this or go the GMC route and redo the dash with separate autometer or other dash gauges. I know that it is preference, but what do you guys think. I hate to cut out the sexy v dash though.

[Woodbutcher]

First off, I love this thread. This another great build found on this site.

Second, don't do it... the instrument cluster is what sets 5-6-7 trucks apart from everything else... you're right, they are sexy. I think you'd be kicking yourself later on if you castrate tyour truck by doing that. My 2 cents. If you really must cut it out, it may be better to sell the chevy cab and find a good GMC cab instead as it will save you the hassle of cutting out the gage pod. Maybe by the time you are ready for insturmentation, Dakota Digital will have released heri 5-6-7 gauge package. hold off on that decision until the absolute last minute!

Lastly, keep it up. Keep lots of great pics coming. that's what keeps some of us coming back - when guys show lots of details and have great build threads.

[OKGMC4]

Ultimately it's your truck and you could do whatever you like but...I've seen so many tri 5 dashes I'm just about sick of them. The dashes that really grab me now are the dare to be different ideas. Even the gmc dash billet inserts are kind of old news. Thats why I modified mine. Look at CAL58's truck, or even KIM57's. They are different and cool! There are some that transplant 59 Impala dashes, some that are built one off out of hand formed steel or fiberglass, the sky is the limit. Decide what you want and do it your way.

[hotrod1]

Ok, took a look at the stance by measuring round so we know where to mount the rear shock mounts. It looks like the front spindles will be about an inch up from the bottom of the frame. If we went with 20 rears with 45 series tires (diameter of 28") and 18s in front, this would give the bottom cab a distance of 8 to 9 inches off the ground. Any opinions for a lowered, coilovered set up? Yeah you bag guys all say that it is too high. We want to have performance at the same time as going over speed bumps and driveways and not have to adjust anything. Opinions please... If too high, smaller rims or whatever? What is too high and what is too low?

[bajabob]

Nice work on the truck, hope to see it some day.

[hotrod1]

BajaBob Maybe you will recognize some of the parts on it.

[bajabob]

hotrod
You and your son are way beyond what I got going.... you metal guys inspire me... thanks

pm me with your number
bb

[hotrod1]

To keep the stock crossmembers to to not keep the crossmembers, that is the quest.... We were looking at it and decided me wanted to get rid of them, even though they would be fine. We need to practice our metal skills anyways. We chopped them out with the plasma. Dont be afraid to chop them up into pieces as it makes it easier to get them out. Went to the metal store and bought 3/16 plate to box the rest of the frame in (5 3/4 wide) and 1 3/4 120 wall tubing. Just started looking at it and figured that if we boxed all the way to the stock crossmembers, stopped for the crosses, and then started again after, could make for a weak point for potential issues, flex, and possible fracture. Probably not true but that was the rational. We then started thinking that a cross brace should attach to the original part of the frame and not just the boxing plate. If you use a straight member which we are going to do using 1 3/4 120 wall tube, it will be most difficult to get them through both boxing plates and wedge them into the frame (both cross members at the same time). Our option was to cut the boxing plates around the members or weld in tube supports behind the boxing plates to the frame where the crosses will be located. We opted for the tube support and then cut the cross to mate up to the boxing plate and weld there. We then decided to weld tube supports throughout the boxing plates for added strength without a lot of added weight. We marked half way in the boxing plates every 5 inches, clamped the plates together, and took them to the drill press with a 1 3/4" hole saw. Remember to use your cutting oil. It was a lot of work. We then took 1 3/4 120 wall tube and cut them so when dropped int the hole (like shown in the pic) sat flush to the top of the box plate. TIG spot welded the top of the tubes to the boxing plate. Once done took the plate off and welded the tubes to the back of the plate with MIG; a little bit at a time as not to warp the plate with too much heat.

[Ipaintgrt]

What are you doing for the places that the body needs to bolt too the frame?

[hotrod1]

I did leave the cab mounting outriggers on the frame. No real need to change those.

[bajabob]

that iron works truck is out of control.... I will submit my order as soon as those lotto numbers come in.... holy moly that thing is crazy....

nice work hotrod keep it coming.... still trying to call you when I get a spare minute...bb

[hotrod1]

We decided to enhance the strength of the boxing plates by using angle iron as an additional welding point. We drilled holes every 2 inches in the angle iron and the boxing plates for additional welding points (spots). Welded in the angle iron and then tacked the box plates in place. Don,t be afraid to take out the torch and straighten the frame rails as 50 years can cause a lot of dents. Then took the frame off of the rotisserie and leveled it on jack-stands. It wasn't easy to level. I would advise to not tack any plates unless the thing is on the level jacks. We had to cut some of the tacks on the top of the boxing plate to frame which solved the level issue. Now, the entire frame is very level except the rear tail. At the very end of the right frame it is 3/4 low compared to the other side. It starts a little at the frame hump but really increases from the stock crossmember in back of the hump to the end. I need suggestions. My next option is to cut out the last stock frame crossmember and see what we can do to straighten it. Is this no big deal or is it? Should we be concerned to not have any active crossmembers in place except the front one and then weld in crosses as we go along? Help please (from all you master fabricators).

Here is a pic of the latest pile of junk that we cut off the frame.

[chev3600]

Looks nice, especially with the tubed holes in the boxing plates. I saw somewhere where a guy used a pair of long 2x4's like pry bars and straightened his frame. Just have a buddy brace it the same way just ahead of the bend while you are pulling on it. The last picture looks like my truck.

[Fat Mike]

Here is a stupid question for you?? Are you going to weld the inner tube to the stock frame threw the hole on the boxed plate. I saw that you welded the inner tube to the backside of the box plate but how will you do it to the stock frame. Sorry about the inexperineced question.

[hotrod1]

Hey Fat Mike. Once we weld the boxing plate to the frame we will weld the tube from the inside of the tube to the stock frame. We tried many different mock ups and found that that option will be the most reasonable. We also plan to have two of the crossmembers to go completely through the boxing plate and the stock frame. We will slip it in from the outside of the frame. All this is probably way overkill, but we need the fabrication experience anyways.

[Fat Mike]

Regaurdless of if it is overkill your frame is looking awesome!! I really like the attention you are putting toward your frame. Keep the good work.

[hotrod1]

So we decided to use a better camera.

When welding the boxing plates on, we left a small gap between the frame and the box plate. It makes it so you can get some of the bead inside. We decided to run cross bars through the frame tubes (1 3/4) we put into the frame. Took a hole saw and drilled through the frame and slipped the 1 1/2 tube through the
1 3/4 frame tube to the other side. Then took 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 tube and built this top tube, lower tube, and x member. We used a HF tube notcher. Not great but after some adjusting worked OK. You would think that it would come somewhat close to accurate from the factory (not even close), but I what do you expect for $54. Makes you want to get a good one though. Tacked it together (but not to the frame) and the next step is to take it over to the TIG bench and see what we can do. After that it is time to finish welding up the boxing plates and grind, grind, grind. Did I mention that I hate metal chips and metal slivers in my feet? I keep wondering how these things get everywhere.

[71'tahoe]

Nice build!

[hotrod1]

Thought of a solution to the rear of the frame not being level while the rest of the frame is right on. We cut a slight relief cut in the frame and pushed it level with a floor jack from below and then welded it. We also welded in the cross member with the TIG.