Rack & Pinion on Stock Crossmember?

[68GMCCustom]

I've also heard of t-bird racks being used.

[jasonhall]

Here is the website with the truck build..
http://okcminis.com/showthread.php?t=8849

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by jasonhall

Here is the website with the truck build..
http://okcminis.com/showthread.php?t=8849

Checking out that site, the last post says it,

"Mustang fox body "

So it's not a MII but a '80's to early '90's Mustang rack. That makes a little more sense, since the later Mustangs are wider than MII setups.

[blime81]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Checking out that site, the last post says it,

"Mustang fox body "

So it's not a MII but a '80's to early '90's Mustang rack. That makes a little more sense, since the later Mustangs are wider than MII setups.

Yeah that had me confused for a minute. The t-bird racks are wider as well. Not sure how much. IIRC the mounts are just a hair wider but the rack is a bit more...

Have to check on that...

[jnocero]

I seem to have two threads going on this topic, but anyway, I measured a 2006 GMC 2wd 4.3L rack, and it is 59" spindle to spindle, and the rack housing is about 21".
They are about $300 new, and $250 rebuilt.
Hard to get a photo, but you can see how the rack bolts to the crossmember in front of the engine. I may be able to lay in a piece of angle iron to my 67 and bolt the rack to the vertical, and have the lower horizontal protect the bottom of the rack tube when I am running too low.
That rack is used on vans, tahoes, surbs, pickups, and maybe impalas from 02 up on the small engines.
Look how short the 4.3 is in the engine bay!

[68GMCCustom]

at 1st with that rear mount you'd think its a rear steer rack...untill you see where the ends come out.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jnocero

I seem to have two threads going on this topic, but anyway, I measured a 2006 GMC 2wd 4.3L rack, and it is 59" spindle to spindle, and the rack housing is about 21".
They are about $300 new, and $250 rebuilt.
Hard to get a photo, but you can see how the rack bolts to the crossmember in front of the engine. I may be able to lay in a piece of angle iron to my 67 and bolt the rack to the vertical, and have the lower horizontal protect the bottom of the rack tube when I am running too low.
That rack is used on vans, tahoes, surbs, pickups, and maybe impalas from 02 up on the small engines.
Look how short the 4.3 is in the engine bay!

Please do not take this offensively..... Put that 2006 GMC R&P in place on your truck w/the 59" spindle gap & the rack housing @ 21".... How 'correct' is that for your truck? Sure, it might fit; but how correct is it for the geometry?

[jnocero]

No offense taken. I enjoy good discussion, thats why I joined this site, and thats why I post my hairbrained ideas on this board first before I spend time and money.
Don't know the answer to whether it is the correct rack for a 67. The 06 width is 59", and the 67 is 56". Seems like 3" could be made up in tie rod ends and couplers pretty easy.
As for geometry, my plan was to try and place the rack as close as possible to the Flaming River rack, make sure it worked for all control arm and spindle angles, and try it out.
That's why I posted here, to try and find someone who had purchased the Flaming River kit, but no one has.
Just trying to find a less expensive alternative to a complete subframe swap, and do it safely. I think there is a need for a bolt in R&P that doesn't require notching the frame and doesn't cost $3K. The nice thing about DIY is that you don't have to have all three of the "Better, Cheaper, Faster" conditions. You can try different things on your own time, and just settle for "Better and Cheaper".
I really appreciate your posts Scotti.

[68GMCCustom]

I too am looking to add a r&p and feel about the same on the available crossmembers. There's a whole slew of "static" drop guys that don't care about laying frame. The dropmember would work great for these guys if it wasn't engineered to have the rack several inches up into the frame. I'd buy one if there was one made for us static drop guys where everything bolted in w/o cutting/welding. I've got a welder...so thats not the issue. I'm trying to shed front end weight...and simplify the steering system.

As long as the rack is in line where the drag link normally lives and the ends match the total length of the stock system...don't see why it wouldn't work provided the rack is mounted securely. Using with the fox body rack or t-bird.

W/O an available solution for these guys...they're apt to do it themselves.
I'd buy the new crossmember engineered for it all..... if it was made.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jnocero

No offense taken. I enjoy good discussion, thats why I joined this site, and thats why I post my hairbrained ideas on this board first before I spend time and money.
Don't know the answer to whether it is the correct rack for a 67. The 06 width is 59", and the 67 is 56". Seems like 3" could be made up in tie rod ends and couplers pretty easy.
As for geometry, my plan was to try and place the rack as close as possible to the Flaming River rack, make sure it worked for all control arm and spindle angles, and try it out.
That's why I posted here, to try and find someone who had purchased the Flaming River kit, but no one has.
Just trying to find a less expensive alternative to a complete subframe swap, and do it safely. I think there is a need for a bolt in R&P that doesn't require notching the frame and doesn't cost $3K. The nice thing about DIY is that you don't have to have all three of the "Better, Cheaper, Faster" conditions. You can try different things on your own time, and just settle for "Better and Cheaper".

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I too am looking to add a r&p and feel about the same on the available crossmembers. There's a whole slew of "static" drop guys that don't care about laying frame. The dropmember would work great for these guys if it wasn't engineered to have the rack several inches up into the frame. I'd buy one if there was one made for us static drop guys where everything bolted in w/o cutting/welding. I've got a welder...so thats not the issue. I'm trying to shed front end weight...and simplify the steering system.

As long as the rack is in line where the drag link normally lives and the ends match the total length of the stock system...don't see why it wouldn't work provided the rack is mounted securely. Using with the fox body rack or t-bird.

W/O an available solution for these guys...they're apt to do it themselves.
I'd buy the new crossmember engineered for it all..... if it was made.

Understood. Neccessity is the mother of invention. I agree there needs to be an 'affordable' R&P upgrade for these trucks & I don't consider 3K to be in the ball-park for the average guy.

[HarrolLS1]

Lookin forward to the Porterbuilt version... "coil-over" w/rack and a bit less drop to compliment the Stage II mild drop rear. I think I read that it is hard to make work with a front coil spring.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=396294

[CSGAS]

On that OKC minis example, it's important to note that the frame has been sectioned and "double" Z'd, probably instead of using air bags for a drop. This means the frame is not as much in the way of a rack as it would be for a strictly bagged drop.

Anyone who chooses to follow that example may need to implement the whole plan of attack including the frame mods. Implementing half-a-solution plan is the same as implementing a WHAT-o-lution?

[68GMCCustom]

that new dropmember still has the frame notched for the end links to pass thru.

[HarrolLS1]

[QUOTE=68GMCCustom;4152445]that new dropmember still has the frame notched for the end links to pass thru.

Yeah.... I was just showing that coil-over version is close. "coil-over 3.4" might be mounted two inches lower and still provide great ground clearance, rack and pinion, centering the wheel in the well, Lsx mounts, and tubular control arms with the logo.

[68GMCCustom]

well I hope he decides to build it then! I told him this is what I wanted months ago.

[mookandairin]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

well I hope he decides to build it then! I told him this is what I wanted months ago.

any luck on the T&T? Ive been searching forever looking for an alternative to a new crossmember. I’ve found some power racks just no manual racks. Or the info as to weather a manual rack will fit into their brackets so I am still at home plate trying to get in base if you will. Just interested in your progress
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