IFS in my 55 project-start

[vjjack04]

ok. I have not been back to this thread in over a week, due to work and other distractions. I have the front brackets and mounts off but have decided to have a more professional person box the frame and weld it in. I have the motor mounts for a chevy V8 that I got from Scotts. The real deal will be once I get it all done.... I will let y'all know what it is like. I can tell you that Justin has been good at answering question/concerns. I will have the crossmember welded in by this coming Friday. Oh and all in all with the front end with the motor mounts cost me a little more than $2200 (forum discount). I believe once it is in and on the road, it will be impressive. And to answer another comment, according to Scott's this particular crossmember goes in level front to back and side to side. Planned ride height is not supposed to be an issue.

[63chevyll]

well it looks like a decent kit. i have heard nothing but good things about their nova kits

[57 3100]

has anyone attempted this IFS install with the front cap still installed ?
does the IFS cross member only go in one way, and if so, how would you adjust the ride height if you wanted it lower ? dropped spindles ?
nice truck you have going.

leonard

[Scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by 57 3100

has anyone attempted this IFS install with the front cap still installed ?
does the IFS cross member only go in one way, and if so, how would you adjust the ride height if you wanted it lower ? dropped spindles ?
nice truck you have going.

leonard

We have two diifferent style of crossmembers for these trucks.
1. one style of crossmember that is knotched on the outside that goes to the inside of the frame.Where the motor has to come out to install.

2.We have our older version that goes to outside of the frame rail where the motor can stay in.We prefer the one that goes into the inside of the frame
it will give you a longer a-arm and a better ride.This is for the 55-59 trucks.

3.For the ride height we build that into every crossmember we build the one you see in the pics of above has a 3 inch drop built into it.You can run a 2 inch drop spindal if you want the truck to sit lower.
justin
www.scottshotrods.com

[57 3100]

wow. thanks for the info scott. now i know how they work.

leonard

[vjjack04]

Ok. Here's an update on my IFS install - After cutting all the required rivets out and a portion of the cross member, I put a couple bolts in the leaf spring brackets and took a couple days to decide how I should proceed. I considered getting a better quality welder and practicing my welding skills on my own...then I got smart. I searched the internet and found a hot rod shop near me (in Tucson) I had never heard of before: Wild West Rods and Customs. So I decided to call them and after talking to the owner, Randy (who instilled much confidence), take my truck there for the final IFS mock up and install. I scheduled the install and got the truck to the shop on time. Decided to have them box most of the front frame and weld in the engine mounts. They did the work on time and with top quality. During the install there were some questions about the angle of the crossmember (did it need to coinside with the intended vehicle "rake"?); after talking to Justin at Scott's the crossmember was installed level with the vehicle frame, per design and instructions. Ok so, the final verdict is that the crossmember and IFS are awsome. Justin at Scott's is quite helpful and knows his business. The team at Wild West Rods is exceptional (Gar is a super welder and good guy). I have worked on NASCAR sanctioned late models (not professionally-weekend circle track racing) and looking at this front end, its easy to draw parallels to racing type front suspension set-ups (which the Scott's design is drawn from). I have attached some early pictures. Later, I will disassemble the front and paint it, then take some more pictures. Let me tell you though, I would highly recommend the Scott's IFS (CA) IFS and equally so the team at Wild West Rods and Customs (Tucson AZ).

Here are the links for each:

http://www.scottshotrods.com/

http://wildwestrods.com/

John Jackson, Hereford, AZ

[candyx]

So you had to notch the bottom of the frame for the rack and pinion to fit,does the kit come with those parts or did you have to fabricate them yourself?

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by candyx

So you had to notch the bottom of the frame for the rack and pinion to fit,does the kit come with those parts or did you have to fabricate them yourself?

I called Justin at Scott's regarding this. I did not have to, I just thought it was a good idea as the boot just brushed the frame a little (not any metal on the inside). So while I was there (in 2 hours), Gar at Wild West C notched the frame bottoms. - Justin, at Scotts, however, did offer to send me the material for free if I wanted. Was just easier to have Wild West do it....in 2 hours.....Again, did not have to do it, just wanted to in case I ever want the front lower. If you did not notch the frame the slight brush of the boot on the frame would not be any issue.

[Scottshotrods]

Looks real good
justin

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Scottshotrods

Looks real good
justin

Justin,
Thanks. Just want you to know that the guys at Wild West have installed many IFS from different fabricators, yet they were sincerely impressed with this unit. Not only is it well engineered, it just looks racy. When I get this thing back on the road, sometime in Jan/Feb, it should be slick. - I have to take a break for the Holiday season....or wife might not understand.....

[Kim57]

I've been watching this thread from the start.
I think your truck looks slick.
What color is it?
Kim

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Kim57

I've been watching this thread from the start.
I think your truck looks slick.
What color is it?
Kim

I bought it from a guy in Tulsa OK. It had been, pretty much, a frame off restoration a few years ago...it is a Mercedes Benz color...sort of a grey black. In the sun it looks mostly black but sometimes with a green hue or even grey. I hope that when I get the thing back together, with the new IFS and refreshed motor, that I have not scratched too much of the paint.

[Pop's C-10]

nice truck....i love tha looks of those wheels

[vjjack04]

Ok. I have disassembled the front end for painting. I painted the A arms black with VHT ceramic based chassis coat (rattle can) and am getting ready to paint the front of the frame. I am considering using POR 15. I want to spray it on with a paint gun. I have read the instructions and different opinions of spray verses brush but do intent to use a spray gun for the rust preventative and then also for their chassis coat black....anyone done this? If so let me know, if not, what did you use other than POR 15.

Thanks.

[52 Rat]

POR15 will coat smooth and lay down good when brushed on. It flows nicely, no brush marks. You will need to top coat the POR15. It is an awesome product.

[vjjack04]

If I brush it on - who much will I need? I have 1 pint that I purchased with the intent to spray it on. I am only doing the frame rails and crossmember. Also, I purchased the Chassis Black top coat from them. I intend to spray that on anyway. Do I need to sand the POR 15 before top coating it?

[52 Rat]

Originally Posted by vjjack04

If I brush it on - who much will I need? I have 1 pint that I purchased with the intent to spray it on. I am only doing the frame rails and crossmember. Also, I purchased the Chassis Black top coat from them. I intend to spray that on anyway. Do I need to sand the POR 15 before top coating it?

I'm thinking you will need more than a pint. You may be able to get by with a quart. I use a Scotch Brite green pad to scuff the POR15 before top coating. I'm not sure what POR recommends. When in doubt, read the destructions.

[vjjack04]

I called the folks at POR 15 regarding this. They said I could spray the POR 15 with a 5% reducer (using their product). They are the ones who told me a pint (supposed to cover 12 sq ft) - For the front (under hood) frame rails and crossmember should be good.....not sure if the pint is enough either....maybe for spraying...but that is why I am inquiring, for the experience of those who have used the product.

[OrrieG]

I've only brushed it, too paranoid about the impossible to remove overspray.

[Woodbutcher]

I'm liking your truck vjjack. When I installed my crossmember I sprayed it with DP40 and then a urethane paint. It took a quart and a half to do two coats of primer and the same for the paint.

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Woodbutcher

I'm liking your truck vjjack. When I installed my crossmember I sprayed it with DP40 and then a urethane paint. It took a quart and a half to do two coats of primer and the same for the paint.

Thanks. Interesting about DP40. My main concern about the frame finish is that gas/oil wont effect the finish.

[vjjack04]

ok. After going around on this I have decided against the POR 15. I think my frame really is not so bad that it really would benefit from it. The guys who put the IFS in, in their shop, they said they often use SEM Trim Paint on their frames (when they don't use awsome powder coating). It goes right over metal and is supposed to be very durable. It also has a good sheen, somewhere between flat and semi-gloss. I will take pictures once done.

[Ipaintgrt]

I am 100% sure that I would not use trim paint over bare metal. You will be very sorry if you dont use some kind of catalyzed paint system to paint your frame. If it were me I would epoxy prime your frame, this gives good adhesion and corrosion protection, and then paint it with what ever type of paint, catalyzed of course, that will give you the finish you want. Trim paint is not catalyzed and is not durable. It will paint over metal, but so will $1 rattle can from walmart. The way I look at it is, you have alot of work, time and energy in this project and to shortcut the paint on your frame and suspension while its all apart would be a shame because down the road it will rust, or come off and chip easily. JMO.

[vjjack04]

I do appreciate your passionate comments. But I suggest you look at the URL attached. This paint is the paint on wiper arms, moldings and such which are exposed to the elements. It is designed to be painted over bare metal. The hot rod shop I got the info from is very credible and has used this particular a lot. I have preped the frame and sprayed on the paint. It has a great satin sheen and looks well. We will see how durable......We'll see....

http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/TRIM%20TDS.pdf

[vjjack04]

OK, Here's the frame with the SEM trim paint. Has a good satin sheen, would actually be good on a hot rod as exterior coating. Anyway, hopefully this all works out well. I will put the front together either tomorrrow or next weekend. Then redo the brake lines....after that, I take a Christmas season break and come back with new heads, cam on motor - and back together.....Jan 11 time frame.