'67 5.3L Build Thread

[6D8_C10]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

Here are the pics of the headers installed during the test fit. They fit SWEET!

Nice headers. What about the plug wires on #1 and #3?

[6772owner]

I would try to get fittings to make the radiator 3/8" barbs as well, or adapt the trans to the smaller, but I think the larger lines are better. You should consider a seperate trans cooler as well. (if you arent already doing this) I used inverted flare AN adapters on my truck and ran 6AN (3/8") braided lines to handle the pressure and make them easy to remove for service.

Edit: Beautiful truck and awesome job on the swap!

[eagleuh1]

Try these and these. The adapter was from NAPA for the tranny lines to radiator, the wires from AutoZone, ordered for me.
Good luck.

[Ticker]

Cool swap, great pictures!

Use a 3/8" pipe to AN-6 adapters at radiator cooler and 5/16" pipe to AN-6 adapters at the trans. Run AN-6 soft lines (appropriate for trans use) to the frame rail, and then AN-6 hardlines along the frame rail.

If you're not familiar with AN - AN just means 1/16" inch, i.e. AN-6 = 6/16" = 3/8"

Here's a little demo on how to make pipe-to-AN connections if you haven't done it before.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=28

Just a thought

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by Ticker

Cool swap, great pictures!

Use a 3/8" pipe to AN-6 adapters at radiator cooler and 5/16" pipe to AN-6 adapters at the trans. Run AN-6 soft lines (appropriate for trans use) to the frame rail, and then AN-6 hardlines along the frame rail.

If you're not familiar with AN - AN just means 1/16" inch, i.e. AN-6 = 6/16" = 3/8"

Here's a little demo on how to make pipe-to-AN connections if you haven't done it before.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=28


Just a thought

Sounds like it would be nice, but I was trying to go cheap on this one. Do you guys think that my way won't hold the pressure?

[Ticker]

None of that stuff is particularly expensive, including the 3/8 hardline which can be brake line purchased from NAPA or something. The fittings are a couple of bucks each.

The all-rubber lines will work, but don't think they'll work for very long. You can't use just fuel tubing for trans lines.

[69CST-V]

The "AN" stands for Air Force / Navy, its a military spec for how they joined flexable hose to a ridgid tube. The the dash sizes in increments of 1/16" are an NFPA and ISO standard that is used on many types of adapter styles such as JIC, JIS, BSPP, O-Ring Boss, ect... This will help when you try dealing with a true hydraulic shop to get what you are needing. Just FYI not trying to ruffle feathers.

[Ticker]

Actually, it's "Army/Navy" Goes back to WW II (no Air Force) when aircraft were being built by so many diffferent companies that a better standard was needed to reduce maintenence overhead. It's not just about flexible to ridgid, it's all kinds of lines, adapters, etc.

I use them for just about everything any more as the fittings and braided lines have become relatively inexpensive. Back when all this stuff was military specification ("MILSPEC") it was outrageously expensive - I have a couple of leftover AN-18 45 degree fittings for my airplane that were like $80 each. But now there are alternate brands to Aeroquip like Russel and others that aren't aircraft-ready but are just fine for automotive use...and so they're way cheaper.

I just offered it as a thought; running long rubber lines can be problematic and using cheap hard lines (not stainless) can end up costing less and being a far-better long-term solution even if it does cost a bit more

[67C10BUB]

I think I'll try what you all are suggesting, but the only thing I can't figure out is how to go from AN tube nut to AN hose. There doesn't seem to be a -6 male AN to AN hose fitting. Probably a stupid question, but I can't find it at Summit.

[6772owner]

Usually you have a Male fitting that goes on the end of your hose, that fitting then screws into the nut/sleeve after you have flared the line. I used a lot of the 3/8" aluminum tubing for my fuel system (F/I), you can also get male to male unions if you are using female fittings on your hose.

[Ticker]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

I think I'll try what you all are suggesting, but the only thing I can't figure out is how to go from AN tube nut to AN hose. There doesn't seem to be a -6 male AN to AN hose fitting. Probably a stupid question, but I can't find it at Summit.

It's not a stupid question at all - this stuff is all new It takes a while to get used to doing this stuff. In case you missed it in my little posting, you must have an AN flare tool as the angle is 37 degrees and not 45...as long as you're not doing stainless lines you don't need a pricy tool.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/

This type of connection is typically done with a union or a bulkhead union to two female connections.





Remember that we need to support any transition from hard to soft lines - they can't just hang in space or the line will work-harden from vibration and crack.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by Ticker

It's not a stupid question at all - this stuff is all new It takes a while to get used to doing this stuff. In case you missed it in my little posting, you must have an AN flare tool as the angle is 37 degrees and not 45...as long as you're not doing stainless lines you don't need a pricy tool.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/

This type of connection is typically done with a union or a bulkhead union to two female connections.





Remember that we need to support any transition from hard to soft lines - they can't just hang in space or the line will work-harden from vibration and crack.

Very helpful, thanks. I'll have to see what I can come up with from Summit using these parts.

[67C10BUB]

I researched all of the parts needed to hook up the trans cooler lines as described above. The total comes out to $107 plus shipping for all of the parts and the 37 deg flare tool. I'm still weighing it out, if I want to spend the money or use my idea for now and plan on replacing it in the future. If anyone wants to do it here is the Summit parts list:
P# Qty needed
EAR-581806ERL 1
EAR-581906ERL 1
FRA-481506 2
SUM-220690 4
SUM-230606 1
EAR-991907ERL 2
EAR-581905ERL 1
EAR-581805ERL 1

These parts are what I have found to be needed to hook up 4L60E cooler lines to the factory radiator.

[rob32472]

Just a suggestion but why not just install a cooler on the frame rail close to the trans? It would be about the same money and look sweet!

[69CST-V]

Originally Posted by Ticker

Actually, it's "Army/Navy" Goes back to WW II (no Air Force) when aircraft were being built by so many diffferent companies that a better standard was needed to reduce maintenence overhead. It's not just about flexible to ridgid, it's all kinds of lines, adapters, etc.

I use them for just about everything any more as the fittings and braided lines have become relatively inexpensive. Back when all this stuff was military specification ("MILSPEC") it was outrageously expensive - I have a couple of leftover AN-18 45 degree fittings for my airplane that were like $80 each. But now there are alternate brands to Aeroquip like Russel and others that aren't aircraft-ready but are just fine for automotive use...and so they're way cheaper.

I just offered it as a thought; running long rubber lines can be problematic and using cheap hard lines (not stainless) can end up costing less and being a far-better long-term solution even if it does cost a bit more

Ticker you caught me I meant Army on that.

[67C10BUB]

Just thought I'd mention that I got my shifter linkage all set up today. I used the Kugel Component linkage. I had to cut the rod down to 19.25" (took me several tries to get the right length) and place it at the position farthest out on the trans link.

[67C10BUB]

I also gutted the interior of the truck. I ordered a new AAW wiring harness, so it will all be new. The PO really hacked the old wiring to pieces. It was dangerous.

[tantrumpipeline]

And todays lesson is how to take a beautiful perfectly good truck and make it even more cool and that much better boys and girls. Nice truck, great work on the swap, not sure how I missed this one

[Puropedo]

Kool swap... What kind of tranny shifting linkage are you using? You mentioned your engine is a 2008 meaning it has the displacement on demand feature, would there be any problems when reflashing your ECU? Would you still be able to use that feature for your swap without any problems?

[Average Joe]

Very cool swap. Thanks for posting all the pics. I'll tag along for the ride!

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Kool swap... What kind of tranny shifting linkage are you using? You mentioned your engine is a 2008 meaning it has the displacement on demand feature, would there be any problems when reflashing your ECU? Would you still be able to use that feature for your swap without any problems?

I used the Kugel linkage for the trans. A previous post shows a pic and the length to cut it. It doesn't even hit the header on that side.

John and Speartech says that the DOD will function and is not an issue. He is making my harness and setting up the computer for me.

[gus]

Originally Posted by rob32472

Just a suggestion but why not just install a cooler on the frame rail close to the trans? It would be about the same money and look sweet!

I agree w/ rob, and is less complicated, But is ur call Bub

[gus]

Bub, what are you using for gauges? I see in one of the pics. that you have ur instrument panel with new gauges.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by gus

Bub, what are you using for gauges? I see in one of the pics. that you have ur instrument panel with new gauges.

Those are the old gauges from the PO. They are all mechanical gauges, so I can't use them. I am probably going to sell those and go with the Auto Meter Arctic White electronic gauges from summit. They seem to be the best I can get for the money. I considered the Dolphin and TPI gauges, but their quality concerns me. What's your plan?

[gus]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

Those are the old gauges from the PO. They are all mechanical gauges, so I can't use them. I am probably going to sell those and go with the Auto Meter Arctic White electronic gauges from summit. They seem to be the best I can get for the money. I considered the Dolphin and TPI gauges, but their quality concerns me. What's your plan?

well, I was hoping to get a different idea from you I guest Not !

I still have my factory ones,

I heard from someone that Dolphin was not a good choice, dont know about TPI, But willl shop at my candy store (summit)to see what they offer (summit has been my supplier for must of my goodies, exept for the headers) !

A.M. sounds good they've been in the Industry for decades !