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Old 03-01-2003, 04:14 PM   #26
Slammed67
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SCOTI and JHickson6:

Here are some pics showing my height differences. In these photos the bags are all at 5.5" tall. My pressure gauges are junk so they don't read the correct pressures. However, there is approximately 80psi in the front bags and 40psi in the rear bags. As you can see from the dimensions, a 1.5" cross member notch will even it out nicely. By the way, the front end has 2.5" drop spindles.





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Old 03-01-2003, 04:34 PM   #27
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ohhhhhhhh, Even better with those pics, you never seem to fail me! AWESOME STUFF!!
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Old 03-01-2003, 04:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slammed67
SCOTI and JHickson6:

Here are some pics showing my height differences.
I'm having trouble with one of the valve solenoids or I'd go get you some shots of mine to compare. I don't have the front end height problem that Slammed has. Mine is basically level at comfortable ride height, and maybe even 1/2" or so lower in the front.

I'm talking to Tony at ART via email now about this bad solenoid so maybe I'll be back up on "all 4" by next week.

BTW, does anybody have any recommendations on a pressure switch? I've had 2 of the el-cheapo standard 120-130psi ones over the last 3 1/2 years and they've both died. I'm in need of yet another one... is it the cold that's killing this stuff??? Maybe I need to move back to Texas

Kenneth
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Old 03-01-2003, 05:30 PM   #29
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XXL:

When you get your truck back in the air, I'd like to see your dimensions at ride height. Also, could you measure your bag heights also at ride height?

Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2003, 12:19 PM   #30
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Ok guys I'm offically baged in the rear! This is my set-up

3/8" SMC valves

Firestone 3/8" port bags.

2 Custom made Aluminum tanks(total of 3.5 gals)

1 100% duty compressor Air lift.

High pressure hose.

Junk gauges that don't light up. (going to be fixed by Monday)



This is what I found for bagging the rear of our trucks. Without C-notch.

When I was aired out, on the frame(factory bumpstops cut down) My bags were not fully compressed without spacing them.
So I didn't have any real spacers so I just put a bunch of huge washers under the bag! LOL Don't laugh it works! I spaced them 1" This compresses the bag air out axle on the frame and the bag has still about 1/4" before it's fully bottomed out. Saving the bag from limiting suspension.

My first reveiw? I NEED ANOTHER COMPRESSOR! This thing takes along time to fill. I need at least one more compressor for the rear alone. Also I need 1/2" fill valves. 3/8" dump are plenty quick. It could raise a bit faster though. The front will without a doubt need 1/2" fill valves.

But over all. I LOVE THESE BAGS! AWSOME! I can see it'll be addictive. I'll have to buy front bags soon.

Here's what I need. Someone to tig weld aluminum for me. I had 2 tanks made. I provided all the aluminum/fittings. They said 2 hours, well guess what it took them (they say) 6 1/2! Thats 240.00 to weld 2 tanks! I about passed out! HELP I need to get two more of these made but theres no way in hell I'm paying that again..

I'll have pictures soon.
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Old 03-02-2003, 12:29 PM   #31
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Oh I forgot the hardest part of this whole thing is the drilling of the frame for the two studs and the hole for the air fitting. PAIN IN THE ASS! If I had a lift, and removed the rear axle to get the drill in there easier it'd been a walk in the park. But none the less it was hard. 3/4 drill bit. But I can't stress anough to take time marking and drilling pilot holes, and getting your template right. The damn bags should come with a template.

This is a picture of my chessy spacers! LOL DOn't laugh only I can laugh at myself!
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Old 03-02-2003, 01:05 PM   #32
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I agree Ryan...... drilling those 3/4" holes was a pain in the ass! I had to drill through my frame plus my 1/4" thick c-notch!
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Old 03-02-2003, 01:44 PM   #33
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Slammed 67 what's your set-up in the rear?

I have these 6" drop coils for sale now. If someone buys a set of LED inserts from us, then I'll throw in the coils free, just send me the money to ship the coils.

Bag Guys whats your thoughts on compressors? I need faster fill times. For more air I may just add a cheap tank and plum it straight into the other tanks below.

In you opinions is 3/8" big anough for the rear? Will 300psi system raise faster with same size valves?

Also I really want higher lift bags. Do they make a 300psi long stroke bag?

picture of my compressor mounting you can see my custom tanks if you look close
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Old 03-02-2003, 02:04 PM   #34
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For easier drilling try drilling out a pilot hole with say 3/16 bit. I had to drill alot of holes on the frame and various pieces welded to my roll cage for seat mounting, seat belts and safety devices ect. I was drilling 1/2 in holes a little smaller, but I found it much easier drilling to drill a pilot hole with the 3/16 then drill it out with the 1/2 bit. It actually saved time, I could drill both holes in half the time than it took just starting out with the 1/2 bit. It is also far less stress on the drill and the bit you are working with. In my first race vehicle I burned up 2 electric drills. For last job I used a 18v battery powered drill using the 2 bit method and it is still going strong. Also make sure you use lots of lubricant and good quality bits, titanium or cobalt.

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Old 03-02-2003, 03:58 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reumster
Bag Guys whats your thoughts on compressors? I need faster fill times. For more air I may just add a cheap tank and plum it straight into the other tanks below
Unless you're constantly going up and down (which means you should have gone with hydraulics ), you probably don't need more compressor, but rather more air. You should design the air supply such that the stored air is lifting the truck, not the compressor. I started with a single 2 gallon tank and one 315 compressor. Bad news. I very quickly went to 2 315's on 2 3 gallon tanks. The reason for the second compressor is that 1 315 would be overworked trying to fill 6 gallons of tank. Also, high pressure is not really what you need either. 120-150 psi in your tanks should be able to lift your Blazer VERY quickly. My truck will lift in 2-3 seconds.

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Old 03-02-2003, 04:32 PM   #36
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Oh a assure you I used a pilot drill! LOL Still a big joke with a 3/4 bit and no room to get behind the drill to apply good pressure. I could have litteraly cut this job in half with a lift.

XXL mine lifts pretty quick but not quick anough! LOLIts a blazer so it'll lift slightly slower due to the added weight. Always room for improvement. I will be adding a second temparary tank inside my blazer, just for now. But as far as compressors. Yes I need another one. For sure with 4 bags. I'm allready addicted. It's like a drug, I find ascuses to go drive it! LOL
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Old 03-02-2003, 05:29 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reumster
Bag Guys whats your thoughts on compressors? I need faster fill times. For more air I may just add a cheap tank and plum it straight into the other tanks below.

In you opinions is 3/8" big anough for the rear? Will 300psi system raise faster with same size valves?

Also I really want higher lift bags. Do they make a 300psi long stroke bag?

picture of my compressor mounting you can see my custom tanks if you look close
for the compressors....

you have two choices...

get an engine driven compressor kit from airlift. this is the fastest and most expensive (you can piece together your own kits from junkyard stuff but that could prove to be a pain)

or most guys are running 9-12 gallons with two viair 450 comps (100% duty cycle and weather proof) it still takes some time to fill up that much volume but then again when you have two 5 gallon tanks its going take quite a bit of playing to deplete your full supply.

i think i read that you felt the 3/8" wasnt rasing the rear fast enough? with those 3/8" valves are you running 1/2" line? otherwise you aren't getting the full potential out of those bags. also what size are the ports on your tank? if theyre small its going to hinder the whole system.

also i hear limiting the ammount of Ts or 90degree fittings in your system can help speed it up.

i know a guy with a newer fullsize and his 3/8" smcs are enough to shoot the rearend up within a second.
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Old 03-02-2003, 10:07 PM   #38
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Old 03-02-2003, 10:07 PM   #39
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Old 03-02-2003, 10:08 PM   #40
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Old Machinist Tip for pilot holes :

When drilling large holes (bigger than 1/2"), use a pilot drill thats equal to the width of a single web/flute of the drill ... in other words, half the final drill size.

It not only speeds up the drilling process, but also saves your drill bits from wearing out as fast.

For example:
1/4" then 1/2"
1/2" then 1.000"

... for a 3/4" inch hole ... drill 3/16" first ... then 3/8" ... then 3/4"

You should also remember, the larger the drill the slower the drill motor should turn.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-02-2003, 10:08 PM   #41
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Old 03-02-2003, 10:09 PM   #42
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Old 03-02-2003, 11:01 PM   #43
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sweet,

are you gonna c-notch it eventually to go a bit lower?

i think some large diameter billets should be next on your shopping list.
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Old 03-02-2003, 11:04 PM   #44
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Reumster....

Have you done the shock and tracking arm relocation yet? Just curious
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Old 03-02-2003, 11:47 PM   #45
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Yes 20 are in order, but front bags first.

Yes I ordered the new longer pan hard bar from Dave @ Early

But my stock pan bar has been modified, seeing it was allready lowered before bags.
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Old 03-03-2003, 02:27 PM   #46
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Custom Tanks
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Old 03-03-2003, 03:17 PM   #47
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It seems that your bagging project is coming along well. For the compressor, the only way to go is engine driven. I have installed a couple of these and for the cost of the kit compared to the cost of a couple of viar 450s it doesn't even compare. 29 seconds to fill a 6 gallon tank from completely empty to 150 psi. Check out www.onboardair.com for good supplies if you don't want to buy the airlift kit from larry. I already have an engine driven for my project...just need the truck now. Any questions I'd be glad to help you in your bagging experience. I have never bagged a 67-72, but I've bagged many late model fullsizes and a couple hoopties too.

As far as the wiring goes...you don't need to wire the ground to the switch..just power. Ground the valves to the frame and run power to the switch. I have a very simple and handy diagram if you would like it.
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Old 03-03-2003, 04:41 PM   #48
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bigchev

send that diagram over to me at dropt72shortbed@aol.com

id like to see it.
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Old 03-03-2003, 05:18 PM   #49
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bigchevy ..... I'd like to see the diagram too leadbett@pronet.net
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Old 03-03-2003, 07:59 PM   #50
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