Painting my 69' GMC this weekend -Rustolium style

[WIDESIDE72]

I believe on a recent episode of Trucks they used a Wagner Power Painter to paint a truck. It was one of the Powerblock shows.) I plan on doing that to my 79 malibu. it already has 4 or 5 yr old rattle can flat black paint job on it now, but has a lot of chips and fading. I bought the Power Painter on EBay for $10 shipped, and a gallon of flat black rustoleum for $29 at the local Ace hardware store.

[heyray]

pretty sure you have to use acetone to thin rustoleum for best results. if you put a hardner in the mix it comes out nice I painted a bronco that way once After all it was a ford so you cant expect much.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 71 super

My question is this, what happens when you can afford a real paint job and you have to take that stuff off? I completely understand the low buck idea especially if you want to sell, but if the truck is something you want to keep, why not leave it alone and save back a little money til you can do it with the right stuff? I know it is going to rust some more but how much more? Before I get bashed for saying this, I have been stock piling parts back for my 4x4 for the last 3 years and I teach, so the budget is limited as well.

Its a valid question, why would you get bashed?? A question that i don't have an answer for, and would also like to know for myself, it may all have to be media blasted to get proper adheasion from a good primer, but then again maybe not??

In my case not being a body man i have been putting this off for so long for one reason (expenses) or another that my truck is just getting worse, both paint and rust, and no releaf in sight for a real paint job. I am not planning on doing it at this point but an concidering it just to keep the metal from getting worse for a short term fix..

[stich626]

Originally Posted by 71 super

My question is this, what happens when you can afford a real paint job and you have to take that stuff off? I completely understand the low buck idea especially if you want to sell, but if the truck is something you want to keep, why not leave it alone and save back a little money til you can do it with the right stuff? I know it is going to rust some more but how much more? Before I get bashed for saying this, I have been stock piling parts back for my 4x4 for the last 3 years and I teach, so the budget is limited as well.

well, for one.. it look better utill thast day
2) at 40 y/o they more times than not already have to much paint on them and you have to strip anyways
3) some area's of the u.s.a. have homeowner associations(commies)
and older cars/trucks that look like "wyw sores" cause issues..
no really this happens in America.. town usa..
4) for under a c-note it can look good, and not look like sandford and sons
5)even if you plan on a "pro" paint job in say 2 years and start saving..
life can kill those plans.. and then your still looking at a truck that is not painted...
now not bash'n your post.. but most people like having a "ok" looking vehicle over a rattie looking p.o.s.
some don't care..
when your vehicle looks like your moving forward with it.. you tend to keeep plug'n away at it..

and last but not least.. AFTER painting it this way, you might look at it .and say.. hell, not bad.. I can use that piant job money for something else..
not have to worry everytime you park it..
alot of hobby cars/trucks get painted (costly painted) and never used all that much after that.. and then most times sold...
and then the guy/gal buy's another p.o.s. to start on..
my take is if it only cost ya time and 100.00 to redo a paint job if it gets killed in use... you won't really care that it got a rock chip. or k mart rash..
you'll care but not as much..
and for the guy still use'n the truck as a truck or goes off road.. godsend
and I'll leave ya with this last one.. the DIY factor has alot of pull..
as you might just say.."well that tookalot of time,but it's not bad. I wonder if I can spray my own paint instead of pay'n someone"

[lakeroadster]

Well said Stitch626. Life is short... just do it as Tiger Woods would say

[LilD]

I can speak from experience. I painted the dash of my 47 with rustoleum & a foam brush, didnt like the look and stripped it off with paint stripper. It did take more work than normal automotive paint but less than the original 60+ year old paint.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Well said Stitch626. Life is short... just do it as Tiger Woods would say

...used to say.

The Rustoleum will strip easier than original paint.I always used stripped to bare metal.All paint strips right off...down to original.Then,it's multiple coats of stripper little by little.Then,there's soda-blast.That'll getcha ready for that nice paint job.

I just wonder why Rustoleum?Can't you do it with any single stage paint?PPG makes a single stage urethane for about $70 a gallon.TCP Global does,too.That's what I'm using on my "Poor Boy" project.I was considering staying with red oxide just so I could move on due to being stalled on paint because of money.I was figuring to strip again later if and when I could paint.Easier said than done.It's just a shell now and tearing it back down is easier said than done.i may roll it and I may shoot it.May just cut it in,but I want it getting together.I can come up with a couple hundred for that single stage urethane.Can anyone think why that could be used to roll on?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by special-K

...used to say.

The Rustoleum will strip easier than original paint.I always used stripped to bare metal.All paint strips right off...down to original.Then,it's multiple coats of stripper little by little.Then,there's soda-blast.That'll getcha ready for that nice paint job.

I just wonder why Rustoleum?Can't you do it with any single stage paint?PPG makes a single stage urethane for about $70 a gallon.TCP Global does,too.That's what I'm using on my "Poor Boy" project.I was considering staying with red oxide just so I could move on due to being stalled on paint because of money.I was figuring to strip again later if and when I could paint.Easier said than done.It's just a shell now and tearing it back down is easier said than done.i may roll it and I may shoot it.May just cut it in,but I want it getting together.I can come up with a couple hundred for that single stage urethane.Can anyone think why that could be used to roll on?

Thanks for the answer on the removal specal k.

You may be into something with other paints too, i wound guess the origional idea came from someone who didn't have an auto paint supply store close at hand and went with items found in a hardware store.

[Swifty]

i'm in the process of doing this now.

I'm on my 3rd coat. i sanded my first 2 coats down with 400 grit and i plan on working my way up to 1500. I'm doing a 60/40 with mineral spirits, the paint looks almost to runny.

My problem is after the 3rd coat i'm showing HORRIBLE orange peel. What do i need to do from here?!?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Swifty

i'm in the process of doing this now.

I'm on my 3rd coat. i sanded my first 2 coats down with 400 grit and i plan on working my way up to 1500. I'm doing a 60/40 with mineral spirits, the paint looks almost to runny.

My problem is after the 3rd coat i'm showing HORRIBLE orange peel. What do i need to do from here?!?

I have never done this so i'm only suggesting.

One post above stated that ya need to use actone so maybe that can help?

Possibly mix thinner so it flows a little better and goes on thinner. per what i have read you need to use very thin coats

[Rat Bastid]

sand the orange peel between coats

[spike38]

I've never brushed it on,
But sprayed my chassis part,
Using 10-15% acetone,
Threw a .13 nozzle,
at 28psi.
Gloss smoke gray on the A-Arms,
And semi gloss black on the craddle

spike

[POPO1984]

How is the progress going for the OP

[BigRed Beast]

The orange peel is from the mixture which you should adjust for the temperature and humidity. Sounds like you need to thin it out a bit more. But, you can experiment...again, if you have a real problem with orange peel or fisheye, put a few more coats on before sanding. Thicker coat, thinner coat...either way, you're going to sand several times to get to the final stage, so the intermediate stages don't really count toward the final look.

One of the main reasons for doing the Rusto paint job, beyond the money, is that most of us can't secure a space for a spray booth and can't prep the entire truck/car for a one time whole car paint job. The roll on method allows you to do the vehicle in stages, in open space, etc. And, while I didn't have the money to pay for even a crappy paint job (which would have to include lot's of body work) I had plenty of time...so, I put myself to work.

stich626 pretty much said it all...

[silverado383]

Alrighty here she is.
the first two coats were layed down with a 60/40 mix. i put down two coats then wet sanded like crazy, layed down a third coat after the first two had set up. one thing we noticed was when we were laying down the first tow coats the mixture was pretty runny, went on the truck good thow but we used stiff foam rollers. the problem we noticed is that when you pressed hard the foam roller would compress and push air bubbles into the paint as it was getting rolled on, after it set for a bit the air bubbles would pop and even out but you could see where the air bubbles were when we wet sanded cuz it would show the primer coat underneith, made us nervous but by the time the 2nd and 3rd coat went on it was fine. then wet sanded after the third. i got the fourth coat down late yesterday afternoon and didnt get a chance to we sand it. the truck will have to sit for tow weeks since i have to go out of town for work
once i get back i will wet sand it down and get rid of as much orange peel as i can then i will try and get two more coats down on it. turned out pretty good i think.

[silverado383]

here are the pics. the first one is before any body work and the original primmer. then u will see the progess after some fresh primmer and some slight body work, really didnt need that much.
i used a foam brush to trim everything out before we started, the the trimming was done with full strength paint. we did two coats then i re-trimmed it againg before the third coat.

[silverado383]

i will keep them comming
a few more pics of the red paint trim, then coat number one.

[silverado383]

coat number one and transition into coat number two

[silverado383]

coat number two and some wet sanding, transition into coat number 3

[LilD]

Wow thats bright! Thats gonna look nice.

[silverado383]

coat number 3

[silverado383]

here is coat number 4 while it was still wet. i didnt get a chance to take any photos of coat number 4 when it was dry........sorry.
i hauled the truck to my parents house cuz they have a bigger garage and my dad was eager to help out, he is a big hot rod guy and had never heard of this and wanted to see it for himself........ couldnt have done it with out my dads help so a BIG thanks goes out to him

[silverado383]

a few more of the fourth coat. i have a few more pics of the progess but i didnt want to over due on the posting, i think you guys get the idea
you can see some orange peel on the hood and other parts of the body, nothing a little wet sanding wont take care of. you can also see that the pait is still a little wet, the color really evens out as it drys and you can see that on the 3rd coat, wish i had some of the fourth coat being dry but i will post them as i get them. and i do plan on doing 2 more coats with some wet sanding and a fresh coat of wax

[Lemield]

Looking good! I painted mine that way a couple of months ago.....I like it.

[silverado383]

sorry, just a few more random pics from the weekend.