Fitting a Muncie m22 into my truck

[Captainfab]

I don't know for certain if the soda becomes embeded in the pores of the metal, but I'm pretty sure it does. Also it gets packed into all the seams and crevaces and is difficult to get it all out. Therefore if it isn't all out of there, and you prime and paint over it, you will have adhesion issues.

I personally don't understand the big attraction to soda blasting. It doesn't remove rust, and it can eventually ruin your new paint job. Granted it is biodegradeable, but is that worth the risk.

Originally Posted by Red Ron

Capt,
Are you saying the soda stays in the pores of the metal? I havn't used soda but was thinking about buying a soda blaster. (maybe)

[Red Ron]

You know I had a soda blasting company come by my shop today to soda blast a 36 foot mast for a sail boat. It took him 20 min, didn't mare the aluminum finish at all and cost me 150.00 witch it would have taken me hours to sand the paint off. Plus I got to leave all the stainless hardware on. BUT the thing is they say it's biodegradable. I was told it was going to kill all the grass in the field we did it in... HMMMM Weird. Have a HAPPY THANGS GIVING ALL!

[padresag]

why not just strip it. Napier makes a good stripper, which was developed for airplanes and I think that their strippers are biodegradable. they use it on boats also. I did some testing for the about a doz years ago for applications on wood
ron
I think that it is still called napier--Napier international

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

http://www.yearone.com/updatedsingle...nfo/muncie.asp
http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm
Year 1967-1970 Type: M22 Rings: None Spline: 10 Tooth Count: 26
Year 1969-1974 Type: M22 Rings: None Spline: 26 Tooth Count: 26



Online engine resources (casting numbers, calculators, etc.)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=382583

[Red Ron]

Ok, Got my Trans adapter, M22 installed w/new 11inch clutch pressure plate using the old bellhousing w/mounts, firewall and frame blasted and painted. now that I have the firewall painted (of course) I'm concerned about the HEI distributor fitting, the 350 that I took out, the rear spark plug boots on the cap touched the firewall and I think I would have to install the distributor before installing motor. Is there a GOOD remedy for this? I thought about heating it and stretching it with like a body dollie and a hammer??? I've seen ones that looked like they took a sledge to it. That's not pretty. HELP!!! Thanks guys

[Captainfab]

I've never had any problems with an HEI in a small block in the stock location. You'll have to remove the cap and rotor to R&R it with the engine installed. One option is to go with an aftermarket small cap electronic distributor, or install a conversion kit in a points distributor.

[Red Ron]

It's just tight but I have like no budget and been collecting parts forever so.... Tight is GOOD!!! the hei is worth it. Have a good one,
Thanks, Ron

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

One option is to go with an aftermarket small cap electronic distributor.........

X2

I used Accel Street Billet Distributor's on my old Model A and Model T Hotrods. Small cap looks stock, but it is a true electronic distributor.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/52100/10002/-1

[Red Ron]

That is a sweet piece, but at this time, just don't have the extra cash.
Ron

[Red Ron]

If I made a recessed fiberglass piece that would have the indention of a HEI distributor, with say at least a 1/2 inch clearance all around the cap have it molded off a 62-66 gm firewall. So that you would cut out a portion of your firewall (I would make a pattern to go with it) it would have like a one inch larger flange/ lip so you could rivet or bond it to the firewall.Would also be smooth and shiny. Would anyone buy one for 20.00? I would make a mold so I could make as many as we need.I'm thinking of making one for myself, if more of you would like one I'll make a mold.
I make fiberglass molds and shapes for a living.