Inherited 86 Chevy from Grandpa

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by billnorman

Now THAT'S funny!!! I wonder what the referee had on his resume? The State in all its glory, underqualified and overpaid. You shoulda said "I don't know, but it runs on gasoline".
You are to be admired for trying to keep your grandfather's truck alive as a memory. You might see if there are any car or hot rod clubs in your area. And when I say "hot rod" I don't mean Japanese econoboxes with a muffler the size of a bathroom trash can tied to the back bumper, sounding like a bumblebee trapped in a can. Real hot rods, with Iron engines and carburetors. They will be glad to help.

Joining a car club is a really good idea...but you have no idea how much I'm "out of my element" here. I really am clueless about auto-mechanics. I'd rather look stupid on-line than in person. Know what I'm sayin'? A bit cowardly, I know.

That's why I'm hoping to get some of my really basic questions answered here. Hopefully over time I'll get better at it and become more proficient with fixing it myself.

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by motornut

I think your grandfather would be proud that your keeping his truck/memories going,
accepting/overcoming the challenges that are with it.

Thanks. That is the intent. He was a good man...and as hard a nails. At 84 he was still challenging me to arm wrestle at every hand shake...and would win.

There is a practical side though. We really needed to have a second car. But for me it's mostly about having "his" truck. My wife understands, but politely keeps saying that we could almost have bought a new car by now ...but in the end she gets it.

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by DetroitDan

Also noticed the hydroboost brakes, I believe that was a one ton only option. That might be a srw c30, not a 20 (werent called 2500s yet). Unless maybe they put hydroboost in diesel 3/4 tons back then, but I've never seen it. Both my 1 tons have hydroboost and power masters, and one of them is a diesel.

Originally Posted by DetroitDan

I'm a diesel guy myself, but the Olds conversion diesel is worthless junk.

DetroitDan, I think you missed that his grandfather swapped the diesel OUT and put a gasser IN. It's not an olds 350 diesel (the spark plugs kind of give it away, too ). So that explains the hydro-boost brakes too; no other (good) way to get power brakes from a diesel engine. I've never seen a GM diesel that didn't have hydro-boost brakes on it, regardless of 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton. But that's just me.

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

DetroitDan, I think you missed that his grandfather swapped the diesel OUT and put a gasser IN. It's not an olds 350 diesel (the spark plugs kind of give it away, too ). So that explains the hydro-boost brakes too; no other (good) way to get power brakes from a diesel engine. I've never seen a GM diesel that didn't have hydro-boost brakes on it, regardless of 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton. But that's just me.

OK. Pray tell. How did you notice hydro-boost brakes from my photos...I'm just trying too learn.

[DetroitDan]

No, you misunderstood. I got that the diesel was swapped already for gas. My comment was that it was the best thing that ever happened to it, because the 350 diesel conversion engines were junk. If you weren't aware, those engines were Oldsmobile 350 gassers that GM converted to run on diesel fuel. No idea why they chose to use the Olds 350 instead of the Chevy 350, but because they did the transmissions are different because the bellhousing bolt patterns were different.
Thanks for the info on the hydroboost, I never knew they put it in anything other than 1 tons. Figured there must be some explanation. I would guess they did it on those not for the heavy duty aspect, but rather the diesels lack of vacuum. Although a non-turbo must have some vacuum, not being positive pressure...

[DetroitDan]

A lot of people believe the GM pickup diesels are all converted gassers, I hear it all the time still. The 6.5 was a redesign of the 6.2, which GM designed with help from Detroit Diesel, but they are not Detroit Diesel engines. And they were specifically designed to be a light duty pickup truck diesel power unit, as opposed to the engines that Dodge and Ford borrowed from medium duty trucks to power their light duty lines. Only reason Dodge ever sold any diesel pickups, and the Ford eventually got it together when they dumped the 6.9 and 7.3 non-turbo for the 7.3 turbo. So GM wasn't really in the game, comparing a light duty diesel to medium duty diesels. Fortunately they developed the GM/Isuzu light/medium class Duramax, so now they are spanking the Ford and Dodges again.
Whoops, sorry for the hijack.

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by motornut

the pic is what your looking for
some blocks have numbers by the engine mounts too

Found these numbers on the bottom left. Couldn't get to the back of the engine.

Anyone translate this for me?

How can I know this applies to the engine and is not simply a "replaced" part?

After all, I have replaced parts, including cracked manifolds.

[terryj]

I don't blame your grandpa for replacing the diesel engine in Alaska, I live in the Fairbanks area for 8 years and winter is brutal on diesel engines, to say the least at about 35 below zero the diesel will start to gel, it becomes a real pain in the butt. From the pictures it looks like my 350 HD. Good luck on your rebuild, I get allot of my parts from LMC. I just replaced the door strikers the other day, got tired of having to slam the doors for them to stay shut.

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by Texasline

OK. Pray tell. How did you notice hydro-boost brakes from my photos...I'm just trying too learn.

It's easy. I've done a few hydro-boost swaps, and they're totally obvious to tell the difference from the vacuum systems. You don't have the big round vacuum booster, and the hydraulic lines going from the power steering pump to the booster behind the master cylinder give it away. Plus, it just makes more sense to keep the diesel's old power brake system than change over to vacuum. I've never liked the vacuum ones anyway. Pretty much anyone who's ever driven both systems will tell you a hydro-boost out performs vacuum ANY day of the week.

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

It's easy. I've done a few hydro-boost swaps, and they're totally obvious to tell the difference from the vacuum systems. You don't have the big round vacuum booster, and the hydraulic lines going from the power steering pump to the booster behind the master cylinder give it away. Plus, it just makes more sense to keep the diesel's old power brake system than change over to vacuum. I've never liked the vacuum ones anyway. Pretty much anyone who's ever driven both systems will tell you a hydro-boost out performs vacuum ANY day of the week.

OK Great! Now I know I've got a hydro-boost brake system...thanks for that info.

You know anything about the number code in the picture I posted?

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by terryj

I don't blame your grandpa for replacing the diesel engine in Alaska, I live in the Fairbanks area for 8 years and winter is brutal on diesel engines, to say the least at about 35 below zero the diesel will start to gel, it becomes a real pain in the butt. From the pictures it looks like my 350 HD. Good luck on your rebuild, I get allot of my parts from LMC. I just replaced the door strikers the other day, got tired of having to slam the doors for them to stay shut.

More good info. Helps me understand the history of the truck...

...by the way, after Grandpa finished up in Alaska. He drove the truck down to Kalamath Falls/Medford area and lived there for a few years. I actually, flew into Medford, about 5 years ago and was picked up by Grandpa(who should not have been driving because of the bad eye sight from the stroke) and drove this same truck back to Kalamath Falls from the Medford Airport - him and I. It was night time, winter and snow everywhere...I remember killing a group of Raccoons whom I surprised as I came up over a hill...I never knew Raccoons could "scream". Poor fellas. Scared the Sh*t out of them. I'll never forget that sound.

Now I've got the truck...but I can't find any Raccoon guts anywhere. LOL

Thanks for the info.

[DetroitDan]

those arent engine numbers because they are on the exhaust manifolds. therefore they could be switched from engine to engine, plus you said they've already been replaced. I think that's just a casting number for the exhaust manifold itself. The numbers will be somewhere on the block itself, which is the core of the engine, where everything else is bolted to. For instance, those manifolds bolt to the head, which may or not be original, then the heads are bolted down onto the engine block. You really don't need to know what the engine is, other than for personal edification. As long as it's running and you don't need to get inside it, you can replace all the externals pretty easy, most SBC (small block Chevy) stuff is interchangeable. That's the beauty of it.

I have seen raccoons do that before, they tend to cross the road all in a group, and they're slow, so it's not unheard of to take out a whole family at once. It's good that you just ran them over because what some people do is panic, lock the brakes and lose control, killing or injuring themselves and wrecking their vehicle in the process. No wild animal, especially a varmint, is worth that. They are not endangered and places that have them usually have a few too many. So it's good that you, your grandpa and the truck survived that incident.

[lindstromjd]

The block code should be on the back driver's side corner right behind the head. It'll probably be incredibly hard to get to and to see from years of grease and grime build up. But it's back there.

[motornut]

i put a close up of the area (post7)
where to look but this one it shows it better behind the valve cover
an 86 prob has more junk in the way
may have to hit it a bit with a pressure washer to clear the crud.....
have also heard some have luck rubbing tinfoil over the numbers
to tight in my 85/88 to do that
and they are upside down from the front

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by motornut

i put a close up of the area (post7)
where to look but this one it shows it better behind the valve cover
an 86 prob has more junk in the way
may have to hit it a bit with a pressure washer to clear the crud.....
have also heard some have luck rubbing tinfoil over the numbers
to tight in my 85/88 to do that
and they are upside down from the front

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

The block code should be on the back driver's side corner right behind the head. It'll probably be incredibly hard to get to and to see from years of grease and grime build up. But it's back there.

Someone earlier said that I really don't need to know the #. But I am curious about the engine. Realistically, it could be an '92 motor...I dun no? Or is that not realistic?

In any case, this weekend I'll try and get in there and snap a pic. to see if I can find it. I would like to know.

BTW, since I had a new Air Pump put in and tightened the driver side shock the truck has been running and sounding great!

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by Texasline

Someone earlier said that I really don't need to know the #. But I am curious about the engine. Realistically, it could be an '92 motor...I dun no? Or is that not realistic?

In any case, this weekend I'll try and get in there and snap a pic. to see if I can find it. I would like to know.

BTW, since I had a new Air Pump put in and tightened the driver side shock the truck has been running and sounding great!

It COULD be a 92 engine; they all had the same bolt pattern for the transmission so theoretically it could work that way. But even if it was, that would mean it has been piece-worked together because the heads and intake are different on a 92 TBI than on an 86 carbureted engine. It is most likely a pre-88 engine.

Great that it's running better though!!

[67resurrection]

[QUOTE=DetroitDan;4389465]Also noticed the hydroboost brakes, I believe that was a one ton only option. That might be a srw c30, not a 20 (werent called 2500s yet). Unless maybe they put hydroboost in diesel 3/4 tons back then, but I've never seen it. Both my 1 tons have hydroboost and power masters, and one of them is a diesel.
QUOTE]

Hydoboost brakes were standard with the 6.2L Diesel trucks including 1/2 tons. My 86 1/2 ton 6.2L 4x4 had them as well.

Nice truck to start out with, glad to see you are keeping your grandpa's truck alive. Definately keep the red and white paint scheme.

As some have already said.... A few basic tools and your manuals will save you a ton of money that can be spent on some pretty nice toys for the truck, instead of lining someone elses pockets..
You will also have a greater appreciation for the truck if you work on it yourself.

[87 chevy silverado]

Originally Posted by 69GMC910

P.S. while most of your truck is in metric, the 9/16 and 1/2" will still be very handy!!

and 3/4

[DetroitDan]

Originally Posted by 69GMC910

P.S. while most of your truck is in metric, the 9/16 and 1/2" will still be very handy!!

? My 97 is all metric, but I havent encountered anything metric on my 82. To what are you referring?

[Slonaker]

Originally Posted by DetroitDan

? My 97 is all metric, but I havent encountered anything metric on my 82. To what are you referring?

About half of my truck seems to be metric. Pulling the A/C compressor takes both standard and metric tools. Very annoying.

Slonaker

[Texasline]

Hear a new "ticking" sound today. Happens while idling but gets louder and faster with acceleration....great. I have it for about 10 days after the last fix and I hear something else.

Tomorrow I'll get under the engine and try to isolate the sound, and also find those engine numbers, hopefully.

[DetroitDan]

first place I'd look is for an exhaust leak a the manifold. Look for a little black soot, see if you can snug up the manifold bolts. For some reason I used to see the passenger side rear bolts loosen up. But check them all. After that you may be looking at internal, like a stuck or collapsed lifter. After that comes rod knock from a spun bearing. Check the oil. Sometimes noises can be so hard to trace, so good luck. Hopefully it's just an external exhaust leak. Sometimes an exhaust leak on only a single cylinder can sound pretty serious.

[motornut]

Originally Posted by Slonaker

About half of my truck seems to be metric. Pulling the A/C compressor takes both . Very annoying.

Slonaker

Found over the years quite a mix
lol the size difference between standard and metric tools is sometimes related to skin loss AKA
bloodly knuckles

[Texasline]

Originally Posted by DetroitDan

first place I'd look is for an exhaust leak a the manifold. Look for a little black soot, see if you can snug up the manifold bolts. For some reason I used to see the passenger side rear bolts loosen up. But check them all. After that you may be looking at internal, like a stuck or collapsed lifter. After that comes rod knock from a spun bearing. Check the oil. Sometimes noises can be so hard to trace, so good luck. Hopefully it's just an external exhaust leak. Sometimes an exhaust leak on only a single cylinder can sound pretty serious.

Got under the truck and looked around....what a mess. The "tap" or "click" grows worse but I can see nothing loose. I have oil everywhere and I found some missing bolts. I'll be taking it in within the hour.

[Texasline]

Are these the Engine #'s I'm looking for?