1966 K20 Project

[duallyjams]

Whats at the plate shop?

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

Whats at the plate shop?

The Gauge Surround, Steering Wheel Horn Parts, Visor Arms, Hood Hinges w/Springs, Door Hinges, Door Strikers and Door Latches.

Just looking to accent with a little extra chrome

[Captainfab]

I'm not understanding why you need to degrease and clean, after the media blasting. It should be perfectly clean after media blasting, and just need a good blow down and then epoxy primed. At least that's how it's done around here.

Originally Posted by LeftCoast32

"UPDATE"

I have a bunch of parts over for Chrome Plating.

I will be sending a bunch of parts over for Powdercoat this next week.

The Cab and Front Sheetmetal is all back from Media Blasting.

I have to Degrease and Clean all the metal after Media Blasting.

I have to coat the Cab and Front Sheetmetal in POR-15 Metal Prep.

We have to get started on some Sheet Metal Repair for the Cab.

I will load pictures up Monday evening!

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I'm not understanding why you need to degrease and clean, after the media blasting. It should be perfectly clean after media blasting, and just need a good blow down and then epoxy primed. At least that's how it's done around here.

There are contaminates in the media so they recommend that it is all cleaned and degreased after the media to ensure good adhesion.

[LeftCoast32]

Here are the pictures of everything back from Media Blasting

[LeftCoast32]

The Cab - Needs a little work in the floors from setting for so long. It is not bad just needs a little attention.

The Doors - Couple of small dents, no rust at all.

The Hood - Needs a little straightening, no rust at all.

The Cowl - Perfectly straight, no rust at all.

The Fenders - Perfectly Straight, no rust at all.

The Grill - Perfectly Straight, no rust at all.

[LeftCoast32]

Here is the Vac and Tach Gauge Cluster I have been working on for it. Still waiting for the Gauge Surround to get back from Chrome Plating.

[collins10672]

sheetmetal looks nice and clean now.take a fools advice,since your front fenders are rust free before you install and paint them if it were mine i would drill a drain hole in the bottom of the outer skin so that dirt water and crud can be washed out.the reason 99% of the front fenders are rusted out on these trucks is because of a poor drainage design and the dirt and crud gets packed in there and then when the truck is driven in the rain it turns to a fender brace packed full of mud that holds moisture forever and then rust sets in.i did this to a 66 i had several years ago and absolutely no problems after that and when you take a water hose and wash it out it will drain and stay dry and to help keep rust from forming.btw i really like your build.

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by collins10672

sheetmetal looks nice and clean now.take a fools advice,since your front fenders are rust free before you install and paint them if it were mine i would drill a drain hole in the bottom of the outer skin so that dirt water and crud can be washed out.the reason 99% of the front fenders are rusted out on these trucks is because of a poor drainage design and the dirt and crud gets packed in there and then when the truck is driven in the rain it turns to a fender brace packed full of mud that holds moisture forever and then rust sets in.i did this to a 66 i had several years ago and absolutely no problems after that and when you take a water hose and wash it out it will drain and stay dry and to help keep rust from forming.btw i really like your build.

Thanks! You are absolutely correct about the holes and saving the fenders!

The fenders are off the running White 4X4 and they have 4 drain holes in the bottom of each. They are original fenders and absolutely perfect.

The 64 came with alot of really nice sheetmetal but the front fenders were pretty bad. They had something bolted to the fronts and had all kinds of stress cracks around the holes.

I still drive the 66 4WD every day, we will swap bodies once everything is finished.

[66Z71]

Originally Posted by LeftCoast32

The Cab - Needs a little work in the floors from setting for so long. It is not bad just needs a little attention.

The Doors - Couple of small dents, no rust at all.

The Hood - Needs a little straightening, no rust at all.

The Cowl - Perfectly straight, no rust at all.

The Fenders - Perfectly Straight, no rust at all.

The Grill - Perfectly Straight, no rust at all.

I officially hate you

Sounds great.

[LeftCoast32]

Thanks!!

[LeftCoast32]

These are the Steel Wheels I had made up in 17X9 with 5" of backspace. They have to clear a D60 and 14B FF with Disc Brake Conversion. They fit like a glove over the brakes and steering.

The plan is to run the real long chrome lugs front and rear.

I am going to run a set of real thin Stainless Steel Trim Rings.

The Dana 60 Mile Marker Hubs are Polished Stainless Steel.

The 14Bolt FF will have Polished Stainless Steel Axle Shaft Bolts.

Should look pretty good when finished.

They are a little dusty from setting around in the garage.

[56taskforce]

Wow you sure got lucky with that donor truck nice parts your donor is much nicer than any of my project trucks. I have a 56 that looks to be completely rust free but it hasn't been blasted either. I like that cluster that is just what I am looking for the 64 I am building is a C60 with hydraulic brakes it should have both the tack and vacuum gauge.
Nice truck looking forward to seeing it go together.

[LeftCoast32]

Thanks for the comments! They have a cluster like mine with the Big Truck Air Gauge and Tach on e-bay now for sale.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964-...Q5fAccessories

[CdM]

Great truck!!! Wish i had a k series also.

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by CdM

Great truck!!! Wish i had a k series also.

Thanks!

I picked up a few pieces that were done at Chrome.

Gauge Cluster Surround



1966 Deluxe Wheel Horn Button and Ring



Sun Visor Brackets

[LeftCoast32]

We have been getting some of the sheetmetal hammered back straight. I have a bunch of sheetmetal going over for touch ups on the media and then coated in DP90LF.

The patch panels I ordered still have not come in so no work on that yet.

The rear shackles will be getting done at the machine shop next week. Once we have the front and rear shackles done then she will be going down to National Spring.

While down at National Spring she will be getting new springs front and rear. I am keeping all the original mounts and grease pins. They are going to make the new springs with 4 1/4" of lift. The rear springs will be a full lift spring so no more blocks.

The new axles will also give her a lift of 3/4" due to the increased diameter of the axle tubes.

The total lift will be 4" higher then she is now.

[CdM]

That truck is sick!!! So much nicer with no blocks 8)

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by CdM

That truck is sick!!! So much nicer with no blocks 8)

Thanks!

I dropped the '66 off to have the Dual 2 1/2" Stainless Steel Exhaust mandrel bent up at a friends shop. Should sound good with dual glass packs. I am using a set of Stainless Steel 1 5/8" Primary Block Hugger Headers with 2 1/2" Collectors.

[plowboy]

I feel like a kid saying that's not fair. Just because I live on the wrong side of the Country, we just do not have truck in that good of shape in Maine.
That's one awesome truck I would love to own one some day.

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by plowboy

I feel like a kid saying that's not fair. Just because I live on the wrong side of the Country, we just do not have truck in that good of shape in Maine.
That's one awesome truck I would love to own one some day.

Thanks! I had been looking for a Big Window Cab for over a year. I was lucky to stumble on the one I got.

[LeftCoast32]

Picked the '66 up from having the Dual 2 1/2" Stainless Steel Exhaust mandrel bent up at a friends shop. We used a set of Stainless Steel 1 5/8" Primary Block Hugger Headers with 2 1/2" Collectors, they fit like a glove.

I really didnt want to do the exhaust right now but the old exhaust was in bad shape. The only down side to the new exhaust is that it is soo much quieter now. I was really getting used to the old exhaust with burnt out mufflers. I am sure it will get a little louder with time and heat cycles.

Next it is going to go down for the new springs. I have to get the rear shackles back from the machine shop, they will be 2" longer then stock. We are also going to make some new front shackles that are 1" longer. The longer shackles are to give the new springs more flex before they bottom out the shackles on the frame (front) or spring hangers (rear).

[CdM]

It'll break in sooner or later. You can always weld in cutouts if it doesn't.
What size meats r u throwing under this beast after the lift springs?

[LeftCoast32]

Originally Posted by CdM

It'll break in sooner or later. You can always weld in cutouts if it doesn't.
What size meats r u throwing under this beast after the lift springs?

I will go with either a new set of the 35" or 37" BFG KM2's. I am thinking about staying with the 35's but I would like the 37's with the 4.56 gears in the new axles. I will see how it looks with the lift on it before I make a final decision.

The SM420 will be staying so I have plenty of gear to push either size tires with the 4.56 in the new axles. I have 3.73 gears in the current axles and the ratio is actually really nice for around town and highway driving.

The 37" tires will give me a 10% lower change from where I am now. If I go with the 35" tires I will see a 20% lower change which would be a little too much I think.

The only up side will be that with the 35" and the new axles my speedomter would be correct again.

If I stay with the 35" tires then I will need to add a Spicer (Brown-Lipe) #2021 overdrive or Advance Adapter - Ranger Overdrive to get the same gear ratio I have now.

[LeftCoast32]

I got my modified stock steel 1966 Grill back from Chrome today. We cut out the mesh in the center. I am still undecided on whether I will add a Chevrolet Bowtie in the open center off the support.