just finished my front crossmember section

[roofingbloke]

Looks like its the way to go,

[smashingchuck]

Some guys run a rack and pinion, may be worth looking into and its a nice upgrade.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

Nope, nothing is wrong , that's what happens when you go 1.5".

Yep. The possible steering related issues are mentioned in most (if not all) of the notched/pancaked/sectioned x-member threads. Hard to miss....

[roofingbloke]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yep. The possible steering related issues are mentioned in most (if not all) of the notched/pancaked/sectioned x-member threads. Hard to miss....

From the many people who had done this, most had done a 2" section experienced steering issues, thats why i went with 1.5",

Oh well, tape measure out again, my options are, move my steering up the same 1.5" or go rack and pinion,

Thanks for the replys.

[HSkinner]

K, I've been considering doing this to my 65 for awhile. is there any reason why you couldn't raise the xmember up into the frame instead of pancaking the xmemeber? I know alot of guys don't like the idea of cutting into the frame but I'd rather raise the xmember up into the frame like 5"s, welded it in and use a rack and pinion system and have better camber angles etc. I've never liked the idea of z'ing the frame. Any thoughts???

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by HSkinner

K, I've been considering doing this to my 65 for awhile. is there any reason why you couldn't raise the xmember up into the frame instead of pancaking the xmemeber? I know alot of guys don't like the idea of cutting into the frame but I'd rather raise the xmember up into the frame like 5"s, welded it in and use a rack and pinion system and have better camber angles etc. I've never liked the idea of z'ing the frame. Any thoughts???

At least one board member here has done something similar so it's another possibility.

[roofingbloke]

I am now going to take a 1.25" section from the chassis & then raise the steering so its in the same location for the steering issues, it should work out to be a very cost affective way of lowering the front end of the c10,

[Scot_Douglas]

Outstanding. Keep us updated!

[HSkinner]

SCOTI, who was it?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by HSkinner

SCOTI, who was it?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=tandem+axle

[love my 72]

Originally Posted by roofingbloke

I have done a test fit, the steering arms hit the crossmember, i am thinking that the power steering box is an aftermarket item and may have been fitted to far back,

Just thinking out loud here:

could the steering issues be solved by moving the steering box and related components one inch forward, then adding one inch to the steering shaft?

[jmedero]

ok see if you can follow me here. I have a 1.5 sec xmember that I am thinking of using. What if you take the upper and lower control arms and move the ball joint forward an inch? This would fix this and also move the wheels up and inch. You might have to grind a little on the xmember to clear but I dont think it would be that much.
What do you guys think?
As far as mounting the rack I wonder if there is a front steer unit that works like the rear steer on the Pontiac sunfire. It can be mounted closer to the driver side of the frame. This makes routing shaft and clearance issues down to a minimum. Any feed back?

[Rochlow]

My question is can you section a crossmember more than 1.5, if you use a rack and pinion without any major issues?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

My question is can you section a crossmember more than 1.5, if you use a rack and pinion without any major issues?

Define 'major'? Custom installation of a R&P set-up & sectioned x-member would be considered 'major' by most (all?) on this site....

[Rochlow]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Define 'major'? Custom installation of a R&P set-up & sectioned x-member would be considered 'major' by most (all?) on this site....

For instance.. Let's say I "notch" the crossmember 2-3" under the frame rails. Then, use no-limits bolt in rack and pinion.

I know the frame will need to be notched for the rack, the spindles reemed out for the tie rods and the motor mount shorten or dropped..

That's the route I was looking at. Also I was think of moving the whole crossmember forward 1" to center the wheels in the wheel wells..

Not sure if this is an option..

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

For instance.. Let's say I "notch" the crossmember 2-3" under the frame rails. Then, use no-limits bolt in rack and pinion.

I know the frame will need to be notched for the rack, the spindles reemed out for the tie rods and the motor mount shorten or dropped..

That's the route I was looking at. Also I was think of moving the whole crossmember forward 1" to center the wheels in the wheel wells..

Not sure if this is an option..

Hard to sat w/o trying. I will say to watch that oil pan. 2-3" is going to leave it hanging awful low (vs the x-member). If you raise the drivetrain, that will add the the amount of planning/work.

Porterbuilts Dropmember get's you there much easier....

[Rochlow]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Hard to sat w/o trying. I will say to watch that oil pan. 2-3" is going to leave it hanging awful low (vs the x-member). If you raise the drivetrain, that will add the the amount of planning/work.

Porterbuilts Dropmember get's you there much easier....

Yea.. I hear ya. I guess I better just save my pennys and get one later on down the road..

Thanks for the advice, Scoti and sorry to Hijack the thread.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I'm more interested in whats going on out back, I've seen a rack and pinion before.

I'm with you, that looks like a ?explorer independant rear suspension ???

i thought of that and wondered why no one would use it.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

My question is can you section a crossmember more than 1.5, if you use a rack and pinion without any major issues?

LOL, take a scroll through my build thread for what I experienced with a 2" section.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

For instance.. Let's say I "notch" the crossmember 2-3" under the frame rails. Then, use no-limits bolt in rack and pinion.

I know the frame will need to be notched for the rack, the spindles reemed out for the tie rods and the motor mount shorten or dropped..

That's the route I was looking at. Also I was think of moving the whole crossmember forward 1" to center the wheels in the wheel wells..

Not sure if this is an option..

That's dam-near what I did, but I used rod ends (without moving crossmember forward)

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Hard to sat w/o trying. I will say to watch that oil pan. 2-3" is going to leave it hanging awful low (vs the x-member). If you raise the drivetrain, that will add the the amount of planning/work.

Porterbuilts Dropmember get's you there much easier....

While I agree Porterbuilt's dropmember would be easiest, Sectioning the crossmember DOESN'T change your crossmember-to-oilpan clearance. If you think about it, you leave the portion under the engine in the stock location and RAISE everything else around it. No change to motormounts or oilpan clearance:


Here's a good shot showing the stock motormounts in place:

Originally Posted by kieth

I'm with you, that looks like a ?explorer independant rear suspension ???

i thought of that and wondered why no one would use it.

Take a look-see in my build thread: It's a somewhat modified 1993 Ford T-bird SC IRS. They can be had for cheap and I wanted to shorten my wheelbase a bit (explained in my build thread) - was much cheaper than building a proper 4 link ( I didn't want to mess with moving the entire stock suspension forward)

[SCOTI]

Re-read what I said.....

Originally Posted by SCOTI

....I will say to watch that oil pan. 2-3" is going to leave it hanging awful low (vs the x-member).

I'm saying to watch the oil pan clearance w/mother earth; not the x-member. If you section the x-member too much, the oil pan sump WILL be hanging below the x-member & could be the 1st thing that will come in contact w/the ground depending on the depth of the sump.

[Rochlow]

Well, I might take the measuring tape out and do some thinking..

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Re-read what I said.....


I'm saying to watch the oil pan clearance w/mother earth; not the x-member. If you section the x-member too much, the oil pan sump WILL be hanging below the x-member & could be the 1st thing that will come in contact w/the ground depending on the depth of the sump.

I'll take my chances, thank you.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Scot_Douglas

I'll take my chances, thank you.

Good for you.

For everyone else but you, I would recommend to verify this concern before going through the effort of raising the x-member more than 1.5".

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Good for you.

For everyone else but you, I would recommend to verify this concern before going through the effort of raising the x-member more than 1.5".

Har dee har har