What radiator?

[Trucknut57]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Just bought this for my truck. Haven't got the truck back together yet so I don't know how well it keeps it cool, but the fit was perfect and the price was very reasonable.

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

If they are true to their word it should be more than enough!

[Handfull 54]

I have a 54 Pro Street truck with a BB in at 632 hp. I used a U.S. Radiator model "Dessert Cooler" I use distilled water and a bottle of Justice Brothers water cooler. I only have a fan shroud no electric fan and no AC. I run 170-185 all day long. I have been told though that all these modern engines including my BB were designed to use a cross flow radiator. I can only tell you my experence. Also I use a 15lb. radiator cap. I had a 6lb cap but my temps were higher than I wanted. Hope this sheds a little more light on your inquiry. Remember one thing "buy cheap buy twice".

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Somewhere I heard that aluminum rads and antifreeze don't mix.

[oletrux]

I have a Walker 'Desert Cooler' serviced with a 50-50 water and anti-freeze mix. 425 hp 383, runs about 185 to 200 in 100* weather. 15# cap. My truck had the 235, so it sticks up above the radiator support. I'm not sure if the make one for the 265 set up, but I imagine they do.

[wildearp]

For what it is worth, I replaced a 4 row Walker copper/brass radiator with a Griffin aluminum 2 row 1" tube radiator without making any other changes. It is 10-15 degrees cooler. I can't get the car to 180 degrees at 80mph, unless I turn on the AC.

You would be hard pressed to make me believe copper/brass cools better than aluminum, unless you show me the math.

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Something I was not aware of...the differences in antifreeze and how different radiator materials are affected. Popular Mechanics has an interesting article on this subject.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...oducts/1272436

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by wildearp

For what it is worth, I replaced a 4 row Walker copper/brass radiator with a Griffin aluminum 2 row 1" tube radiator without making any other changes. It is 10-15 degrees cooler. I can't get the car to 180 degrees at 80mph, unless I turn on the AC.

You would be hard pressed to make me believe copper/brass cools better than aluminum, unless you show me the math.

It depends on the construction not just the material. The US radiator's best extreme duty radiator is copper and brass and it outperforms the aluminum ones that they offer but they are constructed different.

[slugo10]

Originally Posted by Trucknut57

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Just bought this for my truck. Haven't got the truck back together yet so I don't know how well it keeps it cool, but the fit was perfect and the price was very reasonable.

I just order the same one for my '59. I will let ya know how it looks.
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[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Originally Posted by slugo10

I just order the same one for my '59. I will let ya know how it looks.
Posted via Mobile Device

My preference is copper but at least yours is not a square top rad. I like the original curve it has.

[truckerbob56]

Originally Posted by poncho_villa

Any opinions on this:
http://www.championradiators.com/page/423744122
There is also a two row.
http://www.championradiators.com/page/430247590

Just noticed that the manufacturer is the same as the Egay one previously posted above.

I picked up the three core one from ebay and it fit my 56 gmc just right. and it keeps it cool and I am running 400 hp

[poncho_villa]

Originally Posted by truckerbob56

I picked up the three core one from ebay and it fit my 56 gmc just right. and it keeps it cool and I am running 400 hp

Sounds great! The side flanges lined up and bolted up good? Any details on shipping?

[Trucknut57]

Slugo10, I have it installed in my radiator support and it looks great. If you have the means you could even polish the top tank and it would really stand out on a show truck.

[slugo10]

Originally Posted by Trucknut57

Slugo10, I have it installed in my radiator support and it looks great. If you have the means you could even polish the top tank and it would really stand out on a show truck.

Ok ya I prob will polish it up real quick. I am hoping to be able to drive the truck in the next few weeks. I need to pull the motor and put some new gaskets and paint it. I also have to replace the pinion gear seal and few steering parts then I am going to drive it for awhile before paint.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by BIG CHEVY 3600

I have heard it is best to change the antifreeze every 15,000 miles to protect your aluminum rad and heads.
"I recommend changing the coolant every 15,000 miles or so, even for extended drain interval coolant. As coolant ages it becomes acidic and can even hold an electrical charge. This charge can change the voltage of the engine temperature sensor giving a false reading to the engine computer. Old acidic coolant destroys the aluminum in the radiator and engine head. " efficientmileage.com

electrolysis is a common problem in iron block/steel sleeved big truck engines .I have seen pin holes clear through sleeves.

[truckerbob56]

Originally Posted by poncho_villa

Sounds great! The side flanges lined up and bolted up good? Any details on shipping?

yes the flanges lined up real good and they shipped right to my door

[poncho_villa]

Originally Posted by truckerbob56

yes the flanges lined up real good and they shipped right to my door

Awesome! Thanks Bob. That's what I wanted to hear/read! I ordered two. My buddy has a '56 with a big block that has cooling issues also.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by wildearp

For what it is worth, I replaced a 4 row Walker copper/brass radiator with a Griffin aluminum 2 row 1" tube radiator without making any other changes. It is 10-15 degrees cooler. I can't get the car to 180 degrees at 80mph, unless I turn on the AC.

You would be hard pressed to make me believe copper/brass cools better than aluminum, unless you show me the math.

Go over to copper.org and read up on copper/brass vs aluminum radiators. Copper is 70% more heat conductive. The rad fins are copper. The tubes made of brass are somewhat less conductive than aluminum but brass is much stronger. A correctly constructed brass/copper with out cool and aluminum rad. The problem with copper/brass is construction, its soldered together where aluminum can be welded or braised or epoxied together giving it the ability to take up to 30 psi where a soldered rad 15 is about max due to the weak joints.

Radiators will soon be braised or laser welded and eliminate the old weakness of solder taking away one of the only advantages of aluminum.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Go over to copper.org and read up on copper/brass vs aluminum radiators. Copper is 70% more heat conductive. The rad fins are copper. The tubes made of brass are somewhat less conductive than aluminum but brass is much stronger. A correctly constructed brass/copper with out cool and aluminum rad. The problem with copper/brass is construction, its soldered together where aluminum can be welded or braised or epoxied together giving it the ability to take up to 30 psi where a soldered rad 15 is about max due to the weak joints.

Radiators will soon be braised or laser welded and eliminate the old weakness of solder taking away one of the only advantages of aluminum.

WOW thats good to know. you sound like you are an engineer for radiators