More power!!!!!!

[hotrod_991]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't see anyway for you to build a strong running 383 within your $2K budget

If you're set on building a 383, you might be better off selling your 350 and start with over with a 4 bolt 350 core. If you could find a '96-'02 L31 Vortec engine as a core, that would save you a little when it comes to the roller cam.

I came to realize that late last night when I was adding up parts. I called the Mrs's and told her I need 3k instead of 2. Was told "What ever makes you happy im ok with"!! So I have alittle more wiggle room now. But the deal is I can iether build up the one I already have or have to build a new one and keep the old for her camaro.

I was researching last night and found that an 87' and up block was made for a roller but just used hyd. is this true cause then I could just go hunting for a new block.

[hotrod_991]

Originally Posted by Rannos

The roller tipped rockers will work. Have used them on a few motors I built for friends on tight budgets but if you can work it in full roller is the way to go. Honestly for what your doing I wouldn't go with the forged kit... thats $500 or more you can put towards machine work. As for intake just a RPM Performer would work great for a lil street engine.

True I am not building a ful race engine so cast should be fine for a street beater that will see alittle track time. Im going to keep looking for the assemblys you are talking about for 600.

[Marv D]

Let's drop back 5 and think about a few things.

FIRST,,, your block is already +0.040" It's done! Sure there +.060" pistons available, but that is a TERRIBLE platform to try to build a performance motor. +.040 is 'USUALLY' fine, but it's the LIMIT. The sbc cylinder wall is not real meaty to begin with. Any more than .040 is throwing money at a questionable platform. So the smart money wouldn't be to try and build a new stroker in a "last build" block.

But, as far as your reservations on the 383 reliability.... 383's are no different than any other motor. If they destroyed themselves,, it's the builders fault, not the cubic inches or the stroke, or anything else. There are some poor configurations that you can build a 383 from (i.e. using stock 350 pistons and the short GM 5.565" rods from a 400) . Point is, you can build a stroker cheaply, exotically or CORRECTLY FOR THE USE. There are $2500 ultra light Bryant crankshafts that will tolerate 1200+HP,, and there are stock cast 400 cranks that are bent and cracked, and the local crank grinder just 'turns the mains to fit' for $50 and does not mag, straighten, radius the journals, check the balance... etc. Your engine will be only as good as the machine work and components you use to build it. PERIOD.

Which is why your here in this situation in the first place. You somehow got pulled in to these Flo-Tec heads. There made by TriState Cylinder head service in Indiana,, actually that may not be 100% correct. Word I heard is these are Aussie budget castings that are finish machined and assembled with budget parts here in the US. (That is the internet 'rumor' I have nothing to positively support that statement) What I do know is they are a small 170-180cc as-cast intake runner and no one ANYWHERE will state flow numbers for them. My guess is because they are not anything but a light weight substitute (copy) for a stock iron casting. Even the iron S/R Torquer (StockReplacement) heads in the 170cc runner will only flow in the 210-220cfm range. That's dismal and not any better than the early camelhumps and such of the 60's. So ,, were back to heads are going to be your best investment here I think.

Because your block is all done, I can't even express how much I agree with the Capitan and suggest you NOT build a stroker here,, not yet,, and definitely NOT in this block. (oh BTW, at +.030 it's actually 382.6 cubic inches,, at +.040 it would be 384.5 cubic inches, at +.060 is 388.4 cubic inches) which a few cubic inches here really doesn't matter.

My suggestion is to put a set 'real' heads on the 355 you have, keeping in mind a 383 somewhere down the road. To be enough to feed a healthy 350-383 you want a head in the 195-215cc range, depending on how healthy you want it, and how serious you are about it becoming more cubic inches later on. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Where the FloTec heads were less than $700 a PAIR ,, your going to pay that EACH for a well built head capable of supporting 400-500 pump gas HP (enter AFR commercial here LOL)
Just from what I see your looking at and for,, I'd put a set of AFR 195s on your 355 you have right now, Pick up a set of Crane or Crower 1.6 full roller rockers (your going to have to buy rockers for the for 7/16" studs anyways) to get lift up a bit over where your at with that 270H. A set of 1.6 rockers will get your lift up to .501, and be ready for a nice small base circle roller cam when you make that move to a stroker in a better block.

Thats what I'd do with your $2000. It will work well on what you have now, and be the 'right' head for that next step down the faster, faster, faster road to poverty. Plus if you take the 'additional $1000' and do something 'nice' for the wife when you get back (that necklace she wants or a nice new stone on her finger) ,, you bank 'brownie points' so when you go back after $5000 to build the REST of the motor you want... it will be a lot easier. TRUST ME,, if the bride ain't happy with it,, your never gonna get it.

[hotrod_991]

MarvD: I apreciate your straight forwardness its what I need right now. I was sucked into the flotek heads because they were an inexpensive way to get allumi heads. I never owned a pair and thought it would be cool...NOW I am more interested in real power.

I will look into the heads you are talking about. What you have explained seems alot simpler. I was starting to get wrapped up in several parts upgrades and options lol

I understand the get waht you paid for. I do want to build a stoker in the future so might not be a bad option. and would keep me closer to my budget.

what do you mean by "small base circle roller cam"?

With the head change I would still want a bit more agressive cam to compliment the up grade right? I was still looking into the xe284 or 288 cam that was suggested. I am just not wanting to work backwards here.

still swapping the manifold out to something diffrent when I swap heads.

OH and another question...I know I have alot of them sorry guys...I have a wiend highrise intake at home set up for a single 4bbl, would that work for the power increase I am after? I have never ran on and just sorta fell into the one I have. Looks would be neat but really want functionality.

THank you to everyone that is being patient with me.

[jus2qwk]

406 is what I did and will never go back to a smaller motor
the first on I built was made from junk but it was a brute all in all it cost me about 1300 for the whole motor

[Rannos]

What Marv says makes sense. If the Flo Tek heads dont flow over 210 or so then I would replace them for sure. I have never used a set or know anyone who has so I didnt want to speak on them myself. Honestly if thats all they flow you could do the same or better with Vortec heads. Anyway, Marv is a sharp guy. Listen to him and find a decent machine shop and you will build power.

As for the XE284 or XE288 either will work great in a decent 355. I am sure if you call comp they make them in a small base circle as well.

[hotrod_991]

that is the issue...finding a good machine shop in Ft Hood area and recomendations from others in central texas area?

[Marv D]

Originally Posted by hotrod_991

..... I was starting to get wrapped up in several parts upgrades and options lol......

what do you mean by "small base circle roller cam"? ....

With the head change I would still want a bit more agressive cam....

I have a wiend highrise intake at home set up for a single 4bbl, would that work for the power increase I am after? ..... .

Believe me,, I know well the getting wrapped up in it. Last set of heads I bought were $1800 each..... for the bare castings that had nothing but chamber and port cnc's. Then Bischoff, Uratchko, LSM and Jesel all dug into my creditcard limit. WRAPPED UP IN IT,, Ha,, trust me I know and was why I suggested you stop with a head upgrade for what you have right now, and make it something that will work with the future plans.

When you put a long arm in a small block crankcase things get TIGHT!! Rods hit the pan rail, the inside face of the block, the bottom of the bores AND THE CAM. You can do numerous things to minimize the problem clearances. Grind on the block for clearance, grind on the rod bolt shoulder for cam clearance, use a sproler oriented 'cap screw' rod like the Eagle and Scat H-beam ESP rods, AND have the cam ground on a reduced base circle. Base circle being the diameter fo the cam that has NO LIFT. A common SBC roller lobe has a base diameter of well over 1.20 - 1.30" with lobes that are lift / 1.5, a reduced base circle roller will be more in the range of .90" plus lobes of lift / 1.5. If your looking for 0.030" clearance between rods and other components, the reduced base circle cam can mean the difference between grinding, or not.

A cam change would be ideal wo match heads, compression, converter, gear, weight, bla bla bla. And the change to a roller would net HUGE gains over the single patern cam you have now. BUT,,, looking at budget,, You will be into a set of heads like the AFR 195's around $1700, plus $75 for gaskets. and IF youdidn't use a good ARP bolt with the washers,, there's another $125, a set of Crane or Crower full roller 1.6 rockers,, $375. Were already tipping over that $2000 budget. A roller cam is going to set you back another $1000 no two ways about it (cam, lifters, pushrods, complete gasket set because your going to have the pan off to pull th etiming cover and a new timing cover to support the cam button, new timing set, and cam button)

Last,, Weiand makes decent intakes. Not sure what your saying you have there, but it sounds like you are confusing 'hi-rise' and 'tunnelram'

[hotrod_991]

MarvD: roger I meant to say Tunnelram intake.

I have gotten my budget upgraded to 3k. So I have alittle more room now.
The K-kit for the 388HR is 1k like you say but i have a non roller block to I will need retro fit lifters. I dont know if Comp will swap them into the K kit for me or not will ahve to call them.

I already have new ARP bolts with washer installed from my last rebuild.

I need a diffrent timeing cover? I have never used a button. I do know how it works just never had one. Also I have a double roller now...I still need to use a new set?

[hotrod_991]

so Right now the plan is the heads complete
1,500 from summit
288HR from comp 1k
iether 750 holley/or new intake with my 650 holley
and gaskets should set me right at 3k

[hotrod_991]

will sell Flo-tek heads for the money for the rollers and the odds and ends

[Rannos]

Hotrod... the K-kit I listed the part number to you earlier in this thread is the one with the retro-fit lifters... It is not a small base circle tho. if you arent gonna stroke the motor use that exact kit. If you plan on later dropping a stroker kit in it call comp or jeg's or summit and get that kit with the small base circle. Altho if you step up to a 383 with 195 afr's you will likely want a lil more cam anyway. The bigger the motor the less the cam effects vacuum and such.

[hotrod_991]

Rannos: ok thank you i was just thinking about vacuum brakes lol going fast is awesome, but being able to stop is even cooler! lol

I am not going to stroke this motor so I should be fine with that K kit.