Dynamat the Cab......

[hyatt]

I have built streetrods for 25 years and I go to lowes and get the rolls of silver insulation and 3m spray glue and cut and cover the entire floor,cowl,roof etc Easy to work with and not too expensive

[Roman_Soldier1989]

And that works at quieting the cars
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[hyatt]

quiets and keeps out engine heat

[WadmalawJoe]

Originally Posted by hyatt

I have built streetrods for 25 years and I go to lowes and get the rolls of silver insulation and 3m spray glue and cut and cover the entire floor,cowl,roof etc Easy to work with and not too expensive

Hey Hyatt, are talking about the silver insulation with air bubbles in it? It's two layers of silver/foil with like thin bubble wrap in between. I used it inside my doors but I was wondering about under the carpet, how it would hold up especially in the foot traffic area. Maybe the carpet would disperse the pressure enough to keep the air pockets from getting crushed?

[hyatt]

works great under carpet

[mygmctruck]

Thought I would pass this along , I buy rolls of this same type product from a company called insulation 4 less. It's a 1/8" foam product sandwiched between foil , it's has much better insulating qualities and easier to work with.
It's also much cheaper per square ft . I took a sheetmetal box and lined it with this stuff , put it in direct sun lite for 2 hrs. The out side air temp was 90 that day , the surface temp of the metal box was about 120 and the inside temp stayed at 70 . So this stuff does great at what it's made for.

[oldspowered67C10]

I used dynamat on my cab and it does help but dont expect miracles, biggest problem with these truck is the side glass isnt flush to the body like most modern cars and wind buffeting will always be a issue. Also, dynamat is a damper and while it quits panels down it DOES NOT block or absorb sound so it needs to be used with a barrier and a absorber for best effects. Also, although it cant hurt, there is no reason to completely cover a panel w/ dynamat, you only need enough to weigh the panel down.

[king-918]

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[djrickygaz]

Originally Posted by 66GTO66C10

Good luck!

Mike......

Hey Mike how quiet is it inside the cab with that Fat Mat installed?

[Tshort1]

I am currently doing my cab with the above picture of Peel and seal. So far I am really happy with it. Goes on easy and deadens the ping when you tap on metal to more of a thug. Good stuff and it's 14 bucks for a 6" by 25 foot roll. I figure 6 rolls will be able to all of my cab and doors.

[jimmydean]

The sound in the doors alone was so worth it. When the door shuts, it sounds like a new truck. Solid, no rattle, and the cab is so quiet. At least until the stereo goes in.

[tubbedII]

So I picked up a new ride (63 Nova)...and I'm going to try out the Peel & Seal with this one. This will be my DD once road worthy, so I'm trying to cut corners everywhere I can. Just curious on the barrier part...I'm pretty sure I'm not going to get as lucky as you JimmyDean with getting some industrial rubber mat for free, but what's the recommendation for some cheap but decent alternatives? There's a kit for it that's only like $50 which seems to be like jute matting or rubber...you think that's a fair price? It covers pretty much all the floor.

[mrhino]

Just letting you know That I Have Soundener kits available. It is very very similar to Dynamat. click the link in the signature or you can pm me if interested.

85 supersierra's truck





my truck

[infinite-foamies]

How about for thermal resistance? Up at school we had three weeks of -30f and a long time of -20f. I plan to camp in my burb as well so I would like to do something that will help insulate. I couldn't care less about noise.

[thelonerife]

I've used Dynamat before and will use it again. I like the way it quiets down all the road noise. I had a truck with the tank still in the cab and I stuck some on the tank also and it helped with the sloshing noise in the tank. I just put the Dynamat extreme in my GMC and I'm sure it'll be nice when I'm done. I did the floor, back wall, kick panels, behind the kick panel speaker panels and the rear 6x9 panels, door where the panel goes. and the door panels since they are plastic. I ordered 72 Square feet and had 1 2/3 sheet left.

[BR3W CITY]

Deadening is great, but I'll toss in my .02

While I agree with covering the whole floor for vibration/sound/heat resistance...thats really the only thing that benefits from complete coverage. I've seen people waste a TON of cash and add a TON of weight by trying to dynamat everything, for pretty much no reason.

On a door panel, 1 or 2 10x10ish squares will add the mass to the door, and help cancel out vibrations from the door or the speakers. Same goes for people who do the whole roof lining, or the whole inside of the firewall.

Dynamat is 1 single tool in the list of things to use when prepping your cab. Peel n stick works great for the price, and due to its thin-ness, you can bend it easily into tight areas. It also works great for floors because unlike dynamat, it doesn't add 1/4 of depth. Nothing sucks more than finding out your carpet looks like a poo-diaper because of all the d-mat under it.

Spray lining like lizard skin offers similar benefits, and more in the way of heat resistance. Its better for complete coverage, and can get into contours the other stuff cant. Using it on the underside of the cab floor will not only help rustprotect your undercarriage, but offer the same benefit as dynamat.

On the firewall, there are thermal barriers that offer better protection over a thin layer of mat, vs building up layers of the stuff.

While SPL/DB cars may be a slightly different story, even they use a variety of materials to deaden the car. A single mat kit can do most of a truck, if you use it correctly.

[bcontractor]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Deadening is great, but I'll toss in my .02

While I agree with covering the whole floor for vibration/sound/heat resistance...thats really the only thing that benefits from complete coverage. I've seen people waste a TON of cash and add a TON of weight by trying to dynamat everything, for pretty much no reason.

On a door panel, 1 or 2 10x10ish squares will add the mass to the door, and help cancel out vibrations from the door or the speakers. Same goes for people who do the whole roof lining, or the whole inside of the firewall.

Dynamat is 1 single tool in the list of things to use when prepping your cab. Peel n stick works great for the price, and due to its thin-ness, you can bend it easily into tight areas. It also works great for floors because unlike dynamat, it doesn't add 1/4 of depth. Nothing sucks more than finding out your carpet looks like a poo-diaper because of all the d-mat under it.

Spray lining like lizard skin offers similar benefits, and more in the way of heat resistance. Its better for complete coverage, and can get into contours the other stuff cant. Using it on the underside of the cab floor will not only help rustprotect your undercarriage, but offer the same benefit as dynamat.

On the firewall, there are thermal barriers that offer better protection over a thin layer of mat, vs building up layers of the stuff.

While SPL/DB cars may be a slightly different story, even they use a variety of materials to deaden the car. A single mat kit can do most of a truck, if you use it correctly.

What ever u use ..make sure is is flame retardant and poses no health hazards
....I love to use torch down roofing ..but not sure about those issues...

[Andy4639]

I basically did the whole floor and rear of cab wall because I removed the gas tank and have my sub box back there. The doors I did 5 pieces in each. 1 piece was 12"x12" in the center then 6"x6" in each corner of the door per my local radio shop guy. I think it made a huge improvement in the sound.

[Tree-50]

Just so y'all know, dynamat and the likes don't really do anything for sound DAMPENING. Those adhesive/foil back products are for mass loading, aka to stop vibrations by adding weight and changing resonance frequency. Do I think it's useless, no, but it's not going to do a whole lot on the floor board outside of insulation just because the seats are going to brace it and stabilize it anyways, not to mention there isn't a whole lot to rattle down there.

If you wanted to actually dampen your vehicle for sound proof, you would need stuff like closed cell foam.

(I know this thread is old)

[Andy4639]

The flloor was covered with roadkill mat along with the bubble wrap from lowes then the carpet that has the jut backing on it.
I'm not doing sound offs with my truck but it sure made it sound better and the doors shut with a thud now.
Some day when I install the electric bucket, heated seats I will go back and put the Mass Loaded Vinyl in it as well.
For now though it's fine.

[full foot notch]

id like to dynamat my truck, but if I ever have to do any patch panels I know its going to be a ***** to cut and weld without the stuff smoking or catching fire and trying to remove it.

[schpeen]

i did the inside of the cab inside the doors and also did under the hood. Like night and day! worth every penny and then some

[345HP87SSAC]

Humm So many opinions. I may looking into the Lowes stuff too....

[dwcsr]

Another option we use is the deadening strips in various places, not the whole cab or floor, to change the resonance and then use THERMOZITE over top for heat control. we also use a heat resistant product like Thermo-Tec adhesive backed heat barrier on the firewall and underside of the tunnel. It cuts the noise dramatically and also salve a ton over the premium brand name products. The nice thing out Thermozite is its a poly fiber and won't hold moisture to rot a floor panel.

If you have a sub box or high end sound then you may want to cover more area then add the Thermozite.

The object is to keep road noise out, engine noise and heat out, cool in, and dampen or change the frequency of the sheet metal vibration to a point where we can't hear it.

And as stated above it will never be a Lexus but it can be very comfortable.