1985 Chevy C10 issues

[Goldfinger]

It could still be a number of things. bad ground with is the easiest, stuck float, bad gauge, bad wiring. but just keep it full and top it off when you have time.

[jdheff1982]

This truck is full of bad wiring. It all needs to be pulled and replaced. Truck is pretty much drive able at this point. Next spring, the whole gauge cluster is getting pulled and replaced with autometer gauges.

Monday, the rear bumper gets replaced with a roll pan.

[jdheff1982]

Made a startling discovery today. The wire that runs from the alt to the battery was chopped off. Got it fixed and now the charging system works.
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[Goldfinger]

awesome. don't all the little things get annoying, although i realized once i got everything fixed i started to pray for something to go wrong so i could fix it

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

awesome. don't all the little things get annoying, although i realized once i got everything fixed i started to pray for something to go wrong so i could fix it

It's only annoying because the PO had his head up his butt when trying to restore this truck. The more I read the more I am finding oversights that are easy to fix. For example, the neg. bat. cable is grounding to the alt. bracket. Yet there is no ground running from engine to chassis. For all I know, that could be my ticket in fixing the fuel gauge and other electrical issues. Really looking forward in getting passed this crap....

[jdheff1982]

Ok, new serious issue. I am finding my battery dead after rehooking the alt. What do I need to check? Thx.
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[Goldfinger]

Are you sure its dead? take a multimeter and check the voltage if over 12 it should be fine. if not start it up and take measure of the volts coming out of the alt and on the battery it should be around 14v. this would show the electrical system working properly. if it does not charge wiggle the plug on the side. if the problem seems to not change check the wiring on the junction block near the master cylinder. It could be possible the voltage regulator could be shot this will lead to the starter fuse box etc. check all wiring under the hood for frays and melts .

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

Are you sure its dead? take a multimeter and check the voltage if over 12 it should be fine. if not start it up and take measure of the volts coming out of the alt and on the battery it should be around 14v. this would show the electrical system working properly. if it does not charge wiggle the plug on the side. if the problem seems to not change check the wiring on the junction block near the master cylinder. It could be possible the voltage regulator could be shot this will lead to the starter fuse box etc. check all wiring under the hood for frays and melts .

Yes, the battery is being drained while truck is off. It didn't do this before I hooked the alt to the battery. The voltmeter I have hooked up shows it is charging; however, not well. Best peak charge I have seen is 12.5 to 13 volts. Any accessories I turn on (ie headlights), the volts plummet. If I have the headlights on plus the Sunpro lights on (3 total), the volts drop to around 9. So, for whatever reason, the alt is not keeping up with the loads.

I checked the cost of a new voltage reg and it's half the price of a new alt. I'm gonna pull the alt off and have Autozone check it for me. I'm certain they will find it bad.

I tell ya, the lack of attention to detail when this truck was rebuilt is really pissing me off. Anyways, my progress on the truck is slowing down since I have college and a full time job. I need this thing ready for winter. Gonna get rather cold driving a motorcycle during the winter.

[motornut]

Charging should be up 14.5,shouldn't be any lower then 9 volts during starting
a popular test method here that works well
disconnect the neg cable
put a test light between the cable and the battery
pull fuses,see if light goes out

[sumran]

I would check the alternator. Sounds like there is a failed component in the alternator or volatge regulator. The fact that it is charging doesn't mean the alternator is good. There are diodes to prevent the type of drain that is killing your battery. If you have a diode failure it may still charge, but it will discharge when the vehicle is turned off. It sounds like the previous owner did a lot of custom wiring, so I would want to check all of the wiring to the regulator before I put in a new alternator. Your voltage readings indicate something is wrong. Pulling the alternator is fairly easy and most stores have test equipment.

[jdheff1982]

Ok, got alt checked. Bad diodes. Bought new alt, jumped the truck, got it started, found out belt was too loose. Shut down motor, fixed belt, tried starting it again and all I get now is starter grind. Wtf did I do wrong? Is the starter not fully engaging? It has done this new starter was installed. Please help!
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[motornut]

Time to check the heavy batt wires,and I'd wana check the starter while removed even tho it new
How's the fly wheel look ?
Watch/whats the voltage drop when trying to start?
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[jdheff1982]

Update, the starter had loosened itself. Gonna get it shimmer tonite hopefully.
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[motornut]

Cool ,those are the ez fixes
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[sumran]

Originally Posted by jdheff1982

Ok, got alt checked. Bad diodes. Bought new alt, jumped the truck, got it started, found out belt was too loose. Shut down motor, fixed belt, tried starting it again and all I get now is starter grind. Wtf did I do wrong? Is the starter not fully engaging? It has done this new starter was installed. Please help!
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You may not have enough juice in the battery yet. It didn't run long enough to charge the battery, based on your description. Put it on a battery charger to get a full charge. Were you jumping it on the second attempt?

[jdheff1982]

Ok, starter issue resolved. Took about 2 hours to fix, but its fixed. Pulled starter and added 1 shin, sounds a lot better. I hope this is the last of my starter issues for a good while.
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[motornut]

did your starter use a brace?from the case to the block
some don't replace/reuse them

[jdheff1982]

Actually no, it doesn't have a brace. Prolly needs it. As of now, I need to hunt down my electrical problems. Even after replacing alt, and showing good charge, the battery died again over nite. So, I need to start pulling fuse to figure out which circuit is being the devil.
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[jdheff1982]

Haven't been able to get to those fuses yet. I am so hoping that I find a circuit that is the culprit and can be left unplugged w/o affecting anything else on the truck. Hopefully Friday I will be able to get around to checking these. Fortunately, I have a spare battery while Autozone charges the other.

Aside from the above, my truck has an Edelbrock 1405 Carb. It has no choke installed, so first starts of the day are a PIA. Can I put an electric choke on this carb? I am tossing around the idea of getting a whole different carb altogether that comes with an electric choke and has more CFM. PO said the carb is 650 CFM. I feel that is too small for a 355 pushing 400 HP. What are your thoughts on this? Also, as far as I can tell, there is no fuel filter built in the fuel line. PO gave me an inline filter that he was gonna install, but didn't get around to it. How do I depressurize the fuel system so I can install the filter? Thanks!

EDIT: I checked Edelbrock's website, the 1405 is a 600 CFM (disappointing), manual choke carb. Surely, that is too small for this engine. Also, I found the answer to my q about the choke. Def, need to install that. Especially for winter driving.

BTW, you all have been really good with the help. I can't thank you all enough. Keep up the good work!

[motornut]

Originally Posted by jdheff1982

Haven't been able to get to those fuses yet. I am so hoping that I find a circuit that is the culprit and can be left unplugged w/o affecting anything else on the truck. Hopefully Friday I will be able to get around to checking these. Fortunately, I have a spare battery while Autozone charges the other.

Aside from the above, my truck has an Edelbrock 1405 Carb. It has no choke installed, so first starts of the day are a PIA. Can I put an electric choke on this carb? I am tossing around the idea of getting a whole different carb altogether that comes with an electric choke and has more CFM. PO said the carb is 650 CFM. I feel that is too small for a 355 pushing 400 HP. What are your thoughts on this? Also, as far as I can tell, there is no fuel filter built in the fuel line. PO gave me an inline filter that he was gonna install, but didn't get around to it. How do I depressurize the fuel system so I can install the filter? Thanks!

EDIT: I checked Edelbrock's website, the 1405 is a 600 CFM (disappointing), manual choke carb. Surely, that is too small for this engine. Also, I found the answer to my q about the choke. Def, need to install that. Especially for winter driving.

BTW, you all have been really good with the help. I can't thank you all enough. Keep up the good work!

i just wrap a rag around the line when i undo it

[sumran]

The 1405 can cover a fairly wide range of engines. They have a manual that you can download and there is a tech support phone number on their website. With the right jets it will work on your motor, although other carbs may increase performance. Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? If not, you may want to install one.

[jdheff1982]

I honestly don't know if I have a regulator or not. What would it look like?
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[jdheff1982]

I've been reading the Haynes book for this truck and I need some help figuring out some wires. On the alt, the wire harness that plugs into the alt, is one of those wire supposed to physically connect to the positive side of battery? If so, I think I may have hooked up the brown wire that goes to the cluster charge light. From what I can tell, all wires from back of alt got directly to starter. The battery has 1 cable going to starter. Is this right, or do I need to fix something? Thanks.

[sumran]

Originally Posted by jdheff1982

I honestly don't know if I have a regulator or not. What would it look like?
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There are several different styles. If you follow the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb it should be a canister type device. If you do a Google search you will get pictures of several. Your carburator dhould not have pressure exceeding 6.5 PSI. AFB carbs are prone to flooding and will run rich if they have excess pressure.

[jdheff1982]

I do believe it does have a new regulator on it. I got a freshly charged battery installed. Charging system is working well. However, the volts fluctuate from 13.9 to 14.35 volts. Is this ok? Thanks.
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