Can you all give this a quick listen

[INSIDIOUS '86]

from the pics you posted it looks like there are no lockwashers installed on your header bolts not to mention it looks like there must be a very thin or non existant exhaust gasket, i know you checked but its probly leaking out the gasket below by the plugs where you cant feel, a blown header gasket will sound sharp and raspy like a loose rocker, pull your headers and look at your gaskets

[INSIDIOUS '86]

and please when you can, get some 2.02 heads and let that big thumpr cam breath a little! and if your distributor is worn put in the streetfire msd in there these cams neeed proper timing indeed

[jdheff1982]

Ok, ya, ref will check that. Be nice if that is all it was.

[jdheff1982]

[QUOTE=INSIDIOUS '86;5004844]and please when you can, get some 2.02 heads and let that big thumpr cam breath a little! and if your distributor is worn put in the streetfire msd in there these cams neeed proper timing indeed[/QUOTE

Does it not matter that these heads have been ported larger?

[jdheff1982]

So, I spent today working on the motor and got a few things done.

Replaced valve cover and exhuast manifold gaskets
Tapped and heli coiled intake manifold for carb stud
Retuned A/F mixture

So, instead of sitting around 7 hg at idle, I managed to tune to near 10 hg @ ~1000 RPMS! Truck seems to run better than before, even more so with dizzy not hooked to vacuum. The weights are not hooked to any springs, so they flop around in the dizzy providing full advance all the time. I bought a new advance kit (not installed yet) to tie me over until I can afford a new dizzy.

I postponed checking compression after seeing the improvements from the adjustments I made. I need to replace the plugs now as they are pretty nasty looking from the rich A/F I had before.

I still need to get weaker step-up springs as the motor still loads up. There is a barrier that I need to smooth over. Once RPMS reach 1500, the motor starts loading up, then BAM, it's like I just mashed the gas pedal. Its only the 500 RPMs between 1500 and 2000 where the motor loads up. Its not so bad after the motor warms up, but when its cold, yikes!

Since I dont run cats on the truck, is it normal to see moisture spraying out of the exhaust tips? It smell pretty narly, almost as bad as R/C nitro fuel. Take a sniff, and the sinuses are instantly clear, LOL.

Any hoot, I feel I made some real headway today and I hope it keeps going. Maybe I will get to work on the interior after all this coming spring.

Thanks for all your patience and help!

[jdheff1982]

What can I use with header bolts to ensure that they do not back out? Thanks.

[jdheff1982]

Well, I found someone in town that carries performance parts. Picked up a package of step-up springs for the carb. Put the blue springs in and WOW! Hardly any load up when taking off as compared to before. Wish I had done that sooner.

I went to the parts store asking what they would recommend to use to prevent header bolts from backing out and they suggested blue lock-tite. Now, upon reading the package, it will handle temps up to 300 degrees F. Will this hold up to the temps that the exhaust produces? I sort of doubt it. I may end up getting lock washers like I had previously planned to do. The parts guy told me I wouldn't be able to put them on all bolts due to lack of space. So, I'll try this lock-tite and see how it works (if it works.)

[Your41Plague12]

You should be able to run lock washers. I bought a header bolt kit that came with the lock washers, too. It's made a huge improvement. I went from tightening them down every week, to checking once a month and never needing to tighten them.

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Your41Plague12

You should be able to run lock washers. I bought a header bolt kit that came with the lock washers, too. It's made a huge improvement. I went from tightening them down every week, to checking once a month and never needing to tighten them.

Yeah, that's what I will do later. I highly doubt the lock-tite will hold after the motor warms up.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

[quote=jdheff1982;5004847]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

and please when you can, get some 2.02 heads and let that big thumpr cam breath a little! and if your distributor is worn put in the streetfire msd in there these cams neeed proper timing indeed[/QUOTE

Does it not matter that these heads have been ported larger?

even porting the 305 heads have smaller ports and valves and the chambers are pretty bad detonation wise, but sounds like your on the right track with the truck, as for the putrid smell sounds like its still loadedup on fuel at idle and the moisture may just be condensation from the colder weather

[jdheff1982]

[quote=INSIDIOUS '86;5009414]

Originally Posted by jdheff1982

even porting the 305 heads have smaller ports and valves and the chambers are pretty bad detonation wise, but sounds like your on the right track with the truck, as for the putrid smell sounds like its still loadedup on fuel at idle and the moisture may just be condensation from the colder weather

What else can I do to decrease the idle load up? Use leaner needles?

I did some more looking at the mech. advance on the dizzy. The weight base plate is completely froze up. I tried to free the sucker, but it wouldn't give. I am thinking the mech advance is at full advance. REason I say this is if I hook up the dizzy to vac, it runs like ****. Off vac, it runs mostly fine.

Otherwise, things are looking good!

[rs72z]

[quote=jdheff1982;5009487]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

What else can I do to decrease the idle load up? Use leaner needles?

I did some more looking at the mech. advance on the dizzy. The weight base plate is completely froze up. I tried to free the sucker, but it wouldn't give. I am thinking the mech advance is at full advance. REason I say this is if I hook up the dizzy to vac, it runs like ****. Off vac, it runs mostly fine.

Otherwise, things are looking good!

I told you to check the mechanical advance in the other thread you had.
The only way to free it is pull the distributor out, remove the gear, pull the shaft and use lots of carb cleaner on the shaft the the advance should rotate on the shaft. It may take some time to get it free. Pull the advance completly off of the shaft and finish cleaning all of the varnish from the shaft and reassamble with a little molly grease. If the shaft has slack or movement in the housing then it's time for a new dist.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

basicly what he said, just pull the cap off and bump the engine till the rotor points straight back or close to it mark where your vac advance is pointing and mark where your rotor points so that when you put it back in alltogether non of your settings have changed and you can be sure of the changes of behavior in the engine are from the changes from your advance assembly

also to help that loading up problem we need to fix your vac advance so it works right
once you have everything fixed on the distributor i will walk you through the timing and vacuum advance shenanigans that comes with a lopey cam

[INSIDIOUS '86]

also you need one of these, it comes with the streetfire distributors but it is the key to gatting thing going right

http://www.msdignition.com/instructi...ucts/84281.pdf

[INSIDIOUS '86]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99619-1

this would be a better one to get

[jdheff1982]

Right on. It could be a while before I get to the dizzy. With fall semester coming to a close, I will be busy. Sometime around the 15th of Dec, classes will e done and I can pull that dizzy and get it working again.

Thanks again for all the help!

[jdheff1982]

Ok, so I want to get the off-idle load up fixed along with the nasty smell coming from exhaust.

I don't believe the power mode needs to be adjusted, just cruise mode. I understand that finding the right combo is trial by error, but would replacing the stock rods with 0.073 x 0.052 (which is 1 step leaner for cruise) be a start, or would I want to go leaner than that?

I believe the motor is shooting gas out the exhaust. When I put my hand by the pipe, it gets covered in a clear fluid that evaporates and leaves my skin feeling really dry. Also, the grass near the pipes turns black (lol..) rather quickly. Plus, the smell is just plain nasty. It's like sniffing Nitro fuel for R/C cars.

I know the dizzy needs help, but I feel that the off-idle load up and smell is a bigger concern. Not only for me, but for others around me.

Thanks

[INSIDIOUS '86]

once you make changes to the carb you will have to do it all over once you change out the distributor as it will chang the burn in the cylinders

sounds like its the springs not the rods

reason is, there is not enough vacuum to hold the idle rods down in the jets so its pulling alot of fuel. so you need to change springs not rods
weaker springs take less vacuum to stay shut

an edelbock afb is a horrible choice for lopey cams really

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

once you make changes to the carb you will have to do it all over once you change out the distributor as it will chang the burn in the cylinders

sounds like its the springs not the rods

reason is, there is not enough vacuum to hold the idle rods down in the jets so its pulling alot of fuel. so you need to change springs not rods
weaker springs take less vacuum to stay shut

an edelbock afb is a horrible choice for lopey cams really

I already swapped the springs to the weakest. It did help, but did not eliminate the load up.

Do I need to re adjust the IMS since changing springs?

Thanks.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

whenever you make any change to the carb always adjust everything, same thing with the distributor as it changes a/f ratio when the burn gets changed

[jdheff1982]

I spent a few minutes redoing the ims and managed to cut down on the amount of spray and smell coming from exhaust. I also rehooked dizzy to full vacuum and the off idle load up seems to have diminished some. I'm gonna try to find time this weekend and pull the current dizzy. I want to try to get the mechanical advance working again so I can re time it.