my "71 C10 project

[RexDodge]

Had some issues at the beginning of my weekend with my welder. It stopped feeding wire. It sounded normal and the feed motor tried to engage when I pulled the trigger but did not feed wire. Checked everything and cleaned out what looked like a mouse nest. Problem solved and it seems to run better...weird. Moral of the story is clean your welder out periodically.
Well, I did get to doing a mock up of my gas tank install. I "massaged" my frame to make it fit. I ended up fitting the mid seam up against the bottom of the frame rails. That leaves me still with needing 2" of clearance above the frame rail. I will be able to trim that away from the bed sill (and box it back in) to get that. I plan to run my (1/8") straps under the tank and secure that with threaded "hooks" on each end. To avoid issues at the gas station I decided to install a fill door near the side marker light. Here in Oregon we cannot pump our own gas and I don't want someone abusing a tail light fill door. Much simpler to fab up too. I did get to installing some '70 El Camino coils I picked up and also made up some 2" drop blocks too. Had all that (except the coils) around the garage so the price was right. I left the passenger side long to install a bracket for my adjustable panhard bar (pics coming). I still have some work to do on the back end but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. I even found time to take the wife out to dinner Saturday night. I included a picture of a real beer ( Widmer Brothers Hefeweizen) for all you fellas east of the Rockies. When ever I travel that way all I can find is Bluemoon or Bud. Poor deprived people. Anyway, I should get my fabing done this week, get it all cleaned up and ready for paint. Onward!

[RexDodge]

My schedule has cleared up this afternoon to allow me some time in the garage . The plan is to pull the gas tank out, pull the panhard bar, build the adjustable panhard bar/bracket, fab up the upper shock brackets, clean things up and start to box/gusset the back half of the frame. We'll see how all that goes. I'll try to get picks in the micro garage. Have a great day all...

[RexDodge]

I did get a couple of things done or at least started last night. Boxed in the frame at the fuel filler point and started to build my adjustable panhard bar. Note on the panhard bar. If you are not TOTALLY confident in your fabricating/welding capabilities do not attempt this. Just imagine cruzing down the highway at 60mph and snap! I'll leave the rest to your imagination. Some will tell you that there is no stress on the panhard bar but it is what keeps everything centered over the rearend. Proceed with caution. I'll try to finish up tonight and post a complete list of pics so you can see how I did this.
Have a good day all.
PS I am just a goober in his garage that likes to mess with old cars/trucks. I have been fabing/welding on something or another for 20+ years. I've made my share of mistakes. I did not attempt to do any structural (frame or other) modifications until I was able to confidently control heat and penetration with my welding. I have never been certified but I have tested many of my welds and also cut cross sections to examine. For me...I trust my work, for me. Cheers.

[LOW69C20]

That was the same thing I was thinking, I don't want them getting gas on the bed wood.

[RexDodge]

Originally Posted by LOW69C20

That was the same thing I was thinking, I don't want them getting gas on the bed wood.

Nice job on the fuel filler door. What make/year did that come from?

[LOW69C20]

I would guess around a 2000 chevy silverado. I got it from the Canby parts swap meet. Still have to figure out how to connect a hose between the filler tube on the tank and the tube on the gas door as they are different sizes.

[RexDodge]

Most filler necks are just soldered (sp?) in. I'll bet if you search this site someone has changed one out to correct the size issue.
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[RexDodge]

I got my adjustable panhard bar built and installed tonight. It turned out ok and will get the job done. The pictures show what parts I used. I used three 3/4" nuts, one 1.5" nut and a 2' section of black pipe. Cost was about $10. I decided to put the adjustable end on the passenger side. The 3/4" bolt was used to align 2 of the 3/4" nuts when I welded them together. First thing I did was measure the total length needed for the new location on the passenger side. I mounted that side on the 2" lowering block I installed. When you cut the panhard bar make sure you leave enough room to thread at least 5 or 6". After cutting the panhard bar I ground down one end (the longer piece) enough to swedge the 1.5" nut on. Before I put the nut on I ground a nice groove around the edge of the nut to allow a strong weld. After that I ground an edge on one side on two of the 3/4" nuts and threaded them onto the 3/4" bolt shown in the picture. I welded the 2 nuts together being careful not to over heat and distort the nuts/threads. Those two nuts then are prepped (ground another groove for a strong weld) and get welded onto the 1.5" nut I welded onto the longer piece of the panhard bar. Now grab your 3/4" (coarse) die and cut 6" of threads onto the shorter piece of the panhard bar. Thread the last 3/4" nut onto that shorter piece after you cut your threads. I had my mounting bracket already mounted to the 2" lowering block. I loosely bolted the two pieces to the mounting points and held the piece of black pipe up to measure for my cut (of the black pipe). After cutting the black pipe I filed the inside until the longer section of the panhard bar slid into it. I had marked how far I want to insert the longer section so I welded that piece. Then I threaded the shorter section into the longer piece, checked my frame to backing plate measurement, adjusted the length, tightened the jam nut and bolted it into place. Adjustable panhard bar done. As I said in an earlier post, if you are not completely confident in your welding don't do this. You can buy a panhard bar made up for around $100 (or less). I enjoy the challenge and saving a little money so it works for me. Now for a little work on my sills (under the bed) so my gas tank clears. After that all the cleaning begins then on to paint. I'll get there...

[RexDodge]

Tonight was a successful night. It's funny how it goes. One day everything you do takes forever and the next things just sort of fall into place. I was able to build my rear upper shock brackets (to move it up and back) and modify my bed cross sill (spot welded in) to allow clearance for my gas tank. I had a differnt take on the upper shock mount brackets. I used the originals, cut them up and welded them to a piece I had cut out mounting the gas tank. It allowed me to move the mount point 1.75" up and 4.5" back. The shocks will nearly mount in a vertical position. I also moved a frame cross sill that was not square. It was driving me crazy. Each time I walked by the truck it looked like it was leaning to one side. Measured the frame to floor and it is only off 3/8". It was the frame cross sill the panhard bar is mounted to. The passenger side was 1.75" farther to the rear that the drivers side. Removed the rivets (have I said how much I HATE rivets ) and squared things up. I welded it into place and also welded the main cross sill while I was at it. That should stiffen things a bit. Now it's time to take it all apart, clean it up, prime and paint. While my son is home over spring break we will stand the bed on it's front so I can finish the work on that, prep/prime and paint the bottom. Progress!

[RexDodge]

Did I mention how much I hate rivets? I took a picture just to remind myself. I may blow it up, put it on the wall or take it out for target practice. It sure feels good to be done cutting and welding on the frame (back half).

[Tinkermc]

looks like 1 heck of a way to have a swb. but it is loookin gooood!!!!

[RexDodge]

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

looks like 1 heck of a way to have a swb. but it is loookin gooood!!!!

Thanks for the compliment. I just like working on the old stuff.

[RexDodge]

I pulled the back end apart to prep for paint. Well look what I found. If you look closely you'll see what looks like two separate stress cracks near the base of the boss's. After cleaning away the crud I found that the crack actually runs almost 10"! I will grind this down clean, weld the crack and box in about the last 18" of the trailing arm (both) for added strength. This stress crack was found on the drivers side trailing arm. The other was fine. I must say I puckered up a bit when I saw that. If that had let loose while running down the road...yikes. Later on I plan to build new trailing arms that take into consideration correcting any pinion angle issues I may have. Going to be a busy weekend. If all goes well I will get this taken care of, finish cleaning and get all the pieces painted. Then it's time to assemble for the last time...progress!

[RexDodge]

I managed to get a little time in the garage yesterday and here is what I started. I cleaned up the trailing arms, welded the area's at the ends that I found the cracks and made up some plates to add structure. I will leave it open to allow me to clean the crud build up out. I plan for this to be a driver and it's going to need a bath from time to time. Don' want to create pockets for dirt and rust to develop. I also skip welded the seam all the way around. This has convinced me that I will be adding a rear sway bar. I want to limit any stress I can on the trailing arms. With the added hp it could be an issue. Have YOU checked your trailing arms? Please do...

[LakeAnna]

Nice looking work on your welds! That should be strong.

[RexDodge]

Thanks! I got everything prepped and primed today. Tomorrow I'll see how it all turned out.

[RexDodge]

Finally! It was a little cold in the paint booth (aka my garage) but I got some color on all the little parts tonight. Now the agonizing part of letting it dry until tomorrow. UGH...tomorrow I hope to get the differential pulled apart to check that out and clean/prep the housing for paint. Onward...

[RexDodge]

Yes! Making some progress. Tonight I removed my trailing arm brackets (I'm flipping them), cut my exhaust openings, welded my cross braces and got it all cleaned up. Tomorrow I plan to wipe it all down and get some primer laid on. The pic showing the exhaust openings makes them look kinda cock eyed but they are level and true. I took the pieces I cut out and flipped them (to use the e brake hole) and welded them back in for reinforcing the cross brace. It will be good to get the back half together and move to the front. For tonight I'll sit, look at what I've gotten done and enjoy a reward. Newer brewery in Eugene, Oakshire (good stuff). Onward!

[RexDodge]

Morning all. Been very busy lately as the kids are home for spring break. I have made a little more progress. The frame (back half) is primed and painted. I have the rear end (differential) torn apart. I was disappointed to find an open carrier (was hoping for a worn limited slip I could rebuild) but it is solid with no wear issues. I'll get that together this afternoon with new seals and brakes. If all goes well I'll get it back under and mounted too. Making a u pull it run tomorrow afternoon in search of a gas filler door and sway bars. We'll see how the treasure hunt goes. I'll get some pics up later. Have a great day...

[RexDodge]

I dug out some dusty parts today. I hope to sell them to help pay for some front suspension work I need to do. I'll get them posted in the classified section soon. I think I also need to change my subscription. If anybody sees anything they want more info on shoot me a pm. All sbc stuff.

[RexDodge]

I thought I should post something just so you all don't think I am being lazy. I threw in a shot of before the tear down for paint so you could sort of see the change. The back half is finally together except the fuel tank. That will get done this week. I hit a road block with my wheel seals. I had speedy sleeves installed about 15 years ago. Seems no one makes the seals for the speedy sleeves. I had intended to replace the open carrier at a later date. Seems I'll be shopping for a complete rear end now. After I mount the fuel tank I will turn the truck around in the garage and teat the front end down. Then the real fun starts...

[chevy88]

Looking good!!!!!!!!

[RexDodge]

Thought I should post a little more to show I am not sleeping on this project. I am plumbing the fuel line and wiring the back half. I'm going to split this up in a couple of posts. This one will be progress stuff. I was able to wrestle the line in and not damage anything (no kinks). I have not tied anything down yet as I need to still mount the fuel pressure regulator. The next will be looking for some of the wisdom of you guys on plumbing in my fuel line, pressure regulator and some ID stuff. Here ya go.

[RexDodge]

OK, I need you guys to shed some wisdom on me, I have here the fuel tank I have installed. My son picked it up for me a couple of years ago and I believe it is out of a full size blazer. What do you guys think? The next is a picture of the sending unit pump. I have done many searches on the web and I cannot find any pressure/gpm information. I know it is for a tbi vehicle. I believe I can use it (pump) with a fuel pressure regulator set a 5.5 psi and a return line. If I mount the regulator by the tank and run the return back will it work? I'm running aluminum 3/8" line to the existing fuel line under the cab and splicing it there. I plan to run the small vent line to the smaller (5/16") line that runs up to the charcoal canister. The 5/8" line will run to my fuel filler for a vent. In one picture I am showing the (valve) that is right under the mounting flange. Is that the line I run to the charcoal canister? The other small line that empties into the bottom of the tank is where I intend to plumb my return line from the fuel pressure regulator.

[RexDodge]

Oops, forgot the pic showing that vent under the flange. Here it is.