'69 C20 Won't Start - PLEASE HELP!

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by litew8

If you have too, take it to a shop and have them check things out.
Sorry to hear about the events to your truck man. After this, you'll be checking oils/fluids more regularly.

That's true. I got spoiled with my nice Audi that doesn't leak and is reliable seeing as I take care of her.

[litew8]

oh ya, check your fuses

[MarineChevyDriver]

You really think it could be that simple???

[litew8]

Oh wait, I think it's unfused ign. Meaning it's wire/plug direct to fuse box. sorry
You can still check the others see if any got fried. Unless 69 differs from 71 somehow,

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by litew8

Oh wait, I think it's unfused ign. Meaning it's wire/plug direct to fuse box. sorry
You can still check the others see if any got fried.

They look fine (not burnt or strange looking). They look in place inside the cylinders.

[lil hoodlum]

This may be obvious or not( I didn't read it the instructions for the link provided) but it will help to have the transmission in neutral when you are trying to hand crank an engine over. Note: you don't have to actually remove the rocker arms and nuts to remove the push rods. Simply loosen the rocker arm nuts enough to move the rocker arms over to remove the push rods.

Good luck!

Keith

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by lil hoodlum

This may be obvious or not( I didn't read it the instructions for the link provided) but it will help to have the transmission in neutral when you are trying to hand crank an engine over. Note: you don't have to actually remove the rocker arms and nuts to remove the push rods. Simply loosen the rocker arm nuts enough to move the rocker arms over to remove the push rods.

Good luck!

Keith

Good to know. It will probably keep me from losing some nuts or bolts!

[NoNeck]

I was driving on the highway when I started losing power and it eventually died on the road. I opened the hood the the oil was smoking from out of the dip stick tube, and also the valve covers when I opened the oil cover.

The engine was overheating due to the lack of oil. All rotating assemblies were metal-on-metal at highway speeds.

I let off the pressure with the radiator cover tab and steam and hot coolant quickly evacuated out the bottom. I let a good bit of it out and then poured a gallon of water into the radiator once I could open it.

Again, a very hot engine.

I discovered that the previous owners terrible starter hookup led to the main wire being burnt by the exhaust headers all the way to the copper.

A totally separate electrical problem. The starter wire could have shorted out the solenoid and locked the starter, as well as the headlight circuit.

If you can't rotate the engine (out of gear) with all the spark plugs out, using a breaker bar on the crank bolt... it doesn't sound good.

As has been suggested, why don't you have a mechanic look at it for you? Or, just walk into a nearby garage and ask questions. I am not a mechanic. Just a friend that wants to help. If I were closer to you in Arizona, I would even drop by to help.

Hang in there. These old trucks make you earn the right to drive them. You'll get it worked out. Good luck.

NoNeck (Wayne)

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by NoNeck

The engine was overheating due to the lack of oil. All rotating assemblies were metal-on-metal at highway speeds.

Again, a very hot engine.

A totally separate electrical problem. The starter wire could have shorted out the solenoid and locked the starter, as well as the headlight circuit.

If you can't rotate the engine (out of gear) with all the spark plugs out, using a breaker bar on the crank bolt... it doesn't sound good.

Thanks Wayne. Ya, I knew I overheated it when it happened, for sure!

Originally Posted by NoNeck

As has been suggested, why don't you have a mechanic look at it for you? Or, just walk into a nearby garage and ask questions. I am not a mechanic. Just a friend that wants to help. If I were closer to you in Arizona, I would even drop by to help.

I'm going to try and unlock the cylinders today. If I can't, I'm going to buy an engine hoist, take it out and start giving it as much TLC as I can til I leave then put 'er up in storage 'til I come back. I may give it to a mechanic, but I bought it so I could learn, so I'm trying to do it by trial and error first myself. I didn't pay that much for it considering. I'm enjoying working on it none-the-less.

Originally Posted by NoNeck

Hang in there. These old trucks make you earn the right to drive them. You'll get it worked out. Good luck.

NoNeck (Wayne)

It's all good. I have another good vehicle, just no truck.

[litew8]

When you get around to it, make sure you have the correct oil pan gasket. Try getting a one peice blue rubber Fel-Pro. You should not have had a leak up front if everythng was seated properly, and I think you should only use RTV on the 4 corners of the pan.

[midniteblues]

I bought a 350 once that leaked oil really bad out the front. the po replaced the timing chain an put the wrong seal under the timing cover. it also had the famous silicone valve cover gaskets too.I would think that if you were driving with no oil in it you shouldve heard the bearings knocking.if the cam isnt wiped out Im sure the crank and bearings are.

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by litew8

When you get around to it, make sure you have the correct oil pan gasket. Try getting a one peice blue rubber Fel-Pro. You should not have had a leak up front if everythng was seated properly, and I think you should only use RTV on the 4 corners of the pan.

I used the Fel-Pro blue and I probably used too much RTV gray. I didn't see the instructions for 4 corners only until after it was already done.

If it wasn't due to too much RTV the pan must have been warped.

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

I bought a 350 once that leaked oil really bad out the front. the po replaced the timing chain an put the wrong seal under the timing cover. it also had the famous silicone valve cover gaskets too.I would think that if you were driving with no oil in it you shouldve heard the bearings knocking.if the cam isnt wiped out Im sure the crank and bearings are.

I've been cleaning the garage all day so I haven't got around to it like I wish I had yet.

I'll update when I find out the status of the cylinders.

[litew8]

Originally Posted by MarineChevyDriver

I used the Fel-Pro blue and I probably used too much RTV gray. I didn't see the instructions for 4 corners only until after it was already done.

If it wasn't due to too much RTV the pan must have been warped.

Could have been the wrong [gasket] thickness. I think there's two diff. ones.

[Autoblueprint]

Originally Posted by MarineChevyDriver

I got a tow home and checked the oil, there was none in it at all.

If this is the case, then ( I'm sorry to say ) the engine is done. It only takes a few seconds of running without oil to kill an engine. Salvage what you can from the existing engine ( headers, etc. ) and find a running used engine to replace it with.

[litew8]

Thick front seal. Driver's side (LH) dipstick

Thin front seal. Driver's side (LH) dipstick

.

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by Autoblueprint

If this is the case, then ( I'm sorry to say ) the engine is done. It only takes a few seconds of running without oil to kill an engine. Salvage what you can from the existing engine ( headers, etc. ) and find a running used engine to replace it with.

You're probably right. Fortunately there a lot good/new parts on it that can be saved. I'll find out tomorrow when I get it apart.

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by litew8

Thick front seal. Driver's side (LH) dipstick

Thin front seal. Driver's side (LH) dipstick

.

Makes sense. I have the thick seal and mine also was the two dip stick version. I didn't think that would cause issue because I thought it was basically a universal fit of some kind. Right or wrong?

[jjzepplin]

You should first pull ALL the plugs. Put some oil in all the cylinders(to prevent scoring) and with your spark plugs out, the engine should turn over with a 3/8" long ratchet. This does not sound good.
You could try getting a flywheel turning tool (a unit that grabs the teeth on the flywheel) and attempt to turn the flywheel. You should have much more leverage and would not break the crank bolt.
You may be able to work it loose from back and forth movements. I had one engine I thought was burnt but blew the trans up so bad that once I took the trans out the engine was fine.
I would abandon the original wiring and try a starter switch (NOT THE SCREWDRIVER METHOD). Your wiring is hard to replace and a switch is cheap and will not arc your contacts so that the bolts do not come off easily. I know with headers and in general these small bolts on the starter are much nicer to install with ease. If you cannot turn the flywheel something is very wrong. And your starter and wiring could be damaged if your engine is seized. So turn that flywheel and go from there.

[litew8]

Originally Posted by MarineChevyDriver

Makes sense. I have the thick seal and mine also was the two dip stick version. I didn't think that would cause issue because I thought it was basically a universal fit of some kind. Right or wrong?

If you're pan looks like that ^^, you'll want to use this one: Fel-Pro QOS34510T

If your pan doesn't look like the picture above, figure out if you need a thick or thin gasket,
for L or R hand dipstick, and buy the correct one.

[old Chevy guy]

I was just skimming through the thread. Dosent sound good BUT before you give up the ghost check and make sure the starter isint jambed into the flywheel. with the electrical problems and overheating the starter can fry and the bendix could be stuck in the drive position and effectivly binding the motor. Probably a long shot but look underneath and see if the starter teeth are engaged with the flywheel. you will need to remove the splash cover. Had it happen. Good luck and I'll watch this thread to see what happens. I'm not a ''mechanic'' by trade but worked in a couple of garages when there was no other work and have been messing with old chevys coming up on 30 years. I hate being able to say that. The 30 years part that is

[litew8]

and was going to mention it earlier, but thought you'd at least hear a "clicking" sound when trying to jump it earlier.

[old Chevy guy]

Originally Posted by litew8

and was going to mention it earlier, but thought you'd at least hear a "clicking" sound when trying to jump it earlier.

If its all the way out it wont click

[litew8]

Never had it stick on me, so I wasn't sure. So it could be wedged in the flywheel - but it sounds like if it is, its possibly
due to something else that caused the crank from turning further.

"It made a noise like it turned over with two attempts to start"

If the engine did in fact turn over, then it probably got seized up due to metal-on-metal grinding in the engine.
Then came to a hault and the starter got wedged due to the stopping of the flywheel.

Earlier, I almost suggested smacking the starter with a hammer while trying to start the engine, but...
.

[MarineChevyDriver]

Originally Posted by litew8

If you're pan looks like that ^^, you'll want to use this one: Fel-Pro QOS34510T

If your pan doesn't look like the picture above, figure out if you need a thick or thin gasket,
for L or R hand dipstick, and buy the correct one.

That is the same pan I have and the gasket I bought.