New Project

[W.I.P.72]

thanks, i will double check it again. Nice to see there is a good group of Okies on the site...

[W.I.P.72]

Ok, so I sold my civic, so I have 4000 to put into my truck, and see as the motor is running great, I want to do the suspension. I have talked to a shop here that bags cars and trucks and they want $2800 to get it to lay frame, is that a good price. I didn't have the money at the time, so I haven't asked them any detailed questions. I'm just not sure what it should cost. And what if I want to just lower it, not bag it, what should that run me. thanks for the inputs...

[suspect]

i can't say if $2800 is a good price to lay frame.....i'm thinking not. i guess if that's just for labor, then maybe. i don't see how you'll get an air system, bags, labor, etc. for $2800.
if you spent that $4000 wisely, you can have a slick truck if you do all the labor yourself. then it's going to take even more cause that money is going to go quick!

[ksucatz]

I was thinking the Level 1 kit from Ridetech is about $1900. Shouldn't be too hard to install. If you can turn some wrenches, save a little and do it yourself.

[Billett]

If it were me with 4 grand and you are already going to do suspension, I'd do a disc brake swap while you're at it.

[screaminchevypickup]

Cool project. I don't see how they can get your truck to lay frame for $2800 the RIGHT way...
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tinkermc]

good luck with that vin #

[W.I.P.72]

with all of these responses you guys have got me nerves, I am going to go to the shop and figure out how they are planning on doing it for that price and I will let you guys know. If its the wrong way then i wont be doing it, but all of the trucks and cars in his shop where high end and he gets great reviews so I will let you guys know. thanks

[orngsikL]

if you can't weld, just go porterbuilt and bolt it on.

[W.I.P.72]

Ok, so I went to the shop, the reason it is only 2800 is because he builds everything himself, and he does use all the name brand equipment. But he guarantees all of his work. And it's only going to be a two way system, front and back. None of that really bothers me. I think I will go with it, and if I end up having any issues just later on go with the porterbuilt drop members. Thanks for all the inputs.

[W.I.P.72]

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

good luck with that vin #

What do you mean?

[Lower]

I remember that truck! lol Best I could figure it was a 72 cab with a 70 front clip, the frame I was unsure about I know its not a 72, and the bed is a 74. If your interested in year correct fenders let me know I just acquired a set in really good shape. Keep us updated with pics and progress its good to know it went to someone that is actually going to care for it.

[W.I.P.72]

Hey thanks, been loving the truck so far, planning a trip back to california, then after that i will be starting the work on the truck.

[Tinkermc]

would like to see pics of the lowered truck

[W.I.P.72]

sure, let see em...

[W.I.P.72]

Just bought new rims, I have 15s on it now and I like that look, so I went with 15x10 in the rear and 15x8s in the front. I will post pics when they get here, but what I am curious about is there and disc brake conversion for the front that will fit with 15s. I want to use drop spendals, which of course requires disc conversion. Is it possible? thanks

[67c10rustbuket]

What kind of wheels are they? stock ones or aftermarket? Check your PM, I sent a link to a lead on a bed for you.

[W.I.P.72]

Just bought my new front set up, 4in lowering springs and drop shocks. Just to even the truck out, when I get the right bed for it I will be doing spindals in the front and dropping the rear also, but I am gonna keep a little rake to it... Ill post new pics when I get them installed.

[W.I.P.72]

Got some new pics of my truck, with the 4in drop in the front and the new rims.

[W.I.P.72]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Here is a pic of where the frame vin is. they are pretty light and are usually covered in paint and/or oil and grease. Use a wire brush in that area and you should be able to find it pretty easy. Yours may be a little farther forward.

Hey I looked at this on my truck and the numbers there were (9G345408), not sure what that is, doesn't look like a VIN to me, and google came up with nothing. Any ideas?.... thanks

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by W.I.P.72

Hey I looked at this on my truck and the numbers there were (9G345408), not sure what that is, doesn't look like a VIN to me, and google came up with nothing. Any ideas?.... thanks

Yep that is the partial vin. First number is year, 9 = 1969. Letter is manufacturing plant (G is not listed???) last 6 digits are manufacture sequence. assuming that is correct the VIN from the vehicle your frame came from would be CE149G345408. If that is not your titled VIN than the frame has been swapped, no biggie Oklahoma goes by the VIN plate in the driver door jamb. There are plenty of frame swappers out there.

Here is a link of the VIN decoding sec of this site. Check it out.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/Chevyear.html

Wheels and drop look good

[67c10rustbuket]

Just remembered this is a 72 and your sig says C20, according to this site there were no such thing as a factory swb C20 so a previous owner put your 72 C20 cab on a 69 C10 swb frame. This explains the 6 luggers. The third digit of your actual VIN should be a 2 (for 3/4 ton aka c20) not a 1 (1/2 ton aka c10) soo your titled vin starts with one of the following right?? CE2.... or KE2,CS2,KS2.?

[W.I.P.72]

yes the cab is a c20 the rest is c10, thanks for all the info

[W.I.P.72]

another question is were did you get the E in it, I have the straight six right now and I would like to know if that is stock or a swap... any ideas?

[CC69Rat]

I remember it like this:

CSxxx = original 6cyl. ("S" for six)
CExxx = original 8cyl ("E" for eight)

.. my .02