1972 K20 "Diamond in the Rough"

[nitrosport_5]

I finally got all the parts home. There is definately some good **** that it came with. I have a full blue interior. Seat is mint, belts and all armrests, door pannels ect are awesome. the cab has no rust, some surface rust on the bottoms of the doors and on the floor, but nothing that is through. The doors open and shut better than a brand new car, all windows roll down ect. Box has a ding on the driver side right by the taillight, but other than that it is mint. even the inside of the bed is mint, couple small dings, no rust, even the wheel wells are clean. Ive got 2 spare clusters, and a bunch of stuff.

Ive got a few questions.

What is the safest way to get the side moldings off? These are in awesome shape, and i want to save them if possible.

Can i install a tach into the cluster without one? Or will i have to buy a whole new cluster if i want a tach with a factory look.

and finally, the cab is a 2x4 cab, truck is a 4x4. what modifications need to be done to make this cab work. Thanks

[jhaymon]

funny you should mention that..they make molding clip removal tools. i have an old set i got of the snap on truck. they're getting really old and are in pretty bad shape from constant use over the last 15 years, so i just ordered a new set from auto body toolmart. it is the OTC 11 piece trim tool kit #7457. it seemed to be the most complete kit i could find for the price(51bux). it should be in in a few days so ill give a review if you want it, but i have allot of OTC and ATD specialty sets and they do the job just fine.

since you're trying to save the trim, i highly recommend getting trim tools. it doesnt matter if you go to harbor freight and get the cheap swiss army knife looking trim thingy they sell for 5bux, it'll be worth every penny to not have to buy cheap after-market trim. i use a feeler gage to find each clip and pry around the clip. i always put a shim under the tools when prying(like a long file) so im prying on a bigger area. this keeps from putting dents in the sheet metal. anything you can get behind the clip, like the doors and front fenders, is better to cut the clip than pry it out.

you will more than likely put some slight dents in the trim, but it's easily fixed. in fact eastwood sells a real nice trim dolly and hammer set. i got it in last week and it's well worth the 50bux. in case you need a hammer and dolly set for bigger body work i also got they're 7 piece hammer and dolly set. ild put em up there with martin and streamline bumping tools.

[nitrosport_5]

Thanks for the reply. the feeler gauge trick worked awesome at finding the clips. Turns out i had a trim tool. it looks like this one. it seemed to work great. i did very little damage to the bedside trim.


I just bought a tach dash for this thing too. im assuming ill have to run the extra wire for the tach through the harness? Ive got 2 complete spare harnesses so i can steal a wire from them.

[DeadheadNM]

Nice find! The tranny cover in the 2wd cab will be a "low hump" if it came from a small block truck rather than a big block truck. You'll need to use the "high hump" tranny cover from your 4wd cab. No other cab difference that I can think of. If the 2wd cab isn't a 72 the doors won't be correct for a 72 but will work fine.

What's your plan to deal with the VIN on the 2wd cab? Did that come with a title?

Any chance to see pics of the interior and SPID on the inside of the glovebox?

[DeadheadNM]

Yeah that's an Eaton rear end, probably the HO52 it came with. I kept mine for my K20 build and plan to drop a NoSpin carrier inside. Pete

[nitrosport_5]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nice find! The tranny cover in the 2wd cab will be a "low hump" if it came from a small block truck rather than a big block truck. You'll need to use the "high hump" tranny cover from your 4wd cab. No other cab difference that I can think of. If the 2wd cab isn't a 72 the doors won't be correct for a 72 but will work fine.

What's your plan to deal with the VIN on the 2wd cab? Did that come with a title?

Any chance to see pics of the interior and SPID on the inside of the glovebox?

Thanks, ive noticed the door, will 72 door pannels fit on a 70? other than that little bolt up below the wing window, are they the same? Ive also noticed the 70 rear view mirror mounts to the cab, the 72 to the windshield. I also see the high hump trans cover in the 4x4 bolts in, but the 70 is one piece? I will have to cut the floor out? or were all cabs low hump to start with and were converted with that high hump pannel. and was the rear bed work light an option, or just not on the 70

As far as the vin goes, i have no idea. I do have a title for both cabs. I need to talk to my uncle. he has done 2 cab swaps so i will see what he did.

Ill post some pics of the interior. The door pannels arent correct for the 72, but as nice as they are i may use them. Someone in the 72 painted most of the blue plastic black and its coming off. It also has buckets and a console that are aftermarket i believe. they arent bad seats, beside that they are a bit wore out. I have a near perfect blue bench that will go in it.


these first few pics are the 72 4x4

[nitrosport_5]

parts and pics from the 70 white cab.

[DeadheadNM]

Looks good - a Cheyenne K20 with a NoSpin diff and tow hooks....nice. Funny though, I thought tow hooks were only an option on non-chrome bumper trucks but the Cheyenne would have chrome bumpers. Hmmmmm...anyone else help out here?

I could be wrong but I thought the low hump could be unbolted and swapped for that in the 4x4. Those dimples below the vent windows should be the only difference as far as the doors go and I suspect the 72 panels will work on the 70 doors but don't hold me to that.

The bed light was an option that came on trucks with upgraded trim packages i.e. the Cheyenne. Your Cheyenne cab also has accommodations for a headliner that may be absent on the 2wd cab. There are threads that cover installation of these pieces.

[nitrosport_5]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Looks good - a Cheyenne K20 with a NoSpin diff and tow hooks....nice. Funny though, I thought tow hooks were only an option on non-chrome bumper trucks but the Cheyenne would have chrome bumpers. Hmmmmm...anyone else help out here?

I could be wrong but I thought the low hump could be unbolted and swapped for that in the 4x4. Those dimples below the vent windows should be the only difference as far as the doors go and I suspect the 72 panels will work on the 70 doors but don't hold me to that.

The bed light was an option that came on trucks with upgraded trim packages i.e. the Cheyenne. Your Cheyenne cab also has accommodations for a headliner that may be absent on the 2wd cab. There are threads that cover installation of these pieces.

thanks for the info, i am going to have to look into the headliner and bed light install. since i have them i kinda want to install them. It is just really too bad that the cab is so far gone. I could deal with a few rust spots, but the rockers are about GONE, the cab supports are questionable, cab corners bad, floors are bad. be more money than it is worth.

[nitrosport_5]

I also would like to find if it is possible to convert the tailgate i have, to the higher trim. mine is stamped CHEVROLET but i like the trim across the back. Im assuming it can be converted? or find someone who would swap.

[DeadheadNM]

Here's a tech article re: the headliner install http://www.brotherstrucks.com/techar...LATION&index=0

Just don't use that spray on adhesive as it will not work - ask me how I know Gotta use the black trim adhesive.

Adding the tailgate trim holes is no problem. Grab the stainless handle cover from the Cheyenne gate if it's still there. Bummer about the rust. I got lucky with the cab in my K20 Cheyenne.

[nitrosport_5]

I found this tilt column locally. Will it fit my truck? Seems like a good deal?

http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/3178457991.html

[DeadheadNM]

That could be modified to work but won't bolt in as is...It would be a good budget way to go. If in good shape and it were me I'd grab it. Here are some relevant threads:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=393388

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=147355

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=133937

[nitrosport_5]

Been working on the spare cab, gutting it, taking off the trim, preping for paint. What is the best way to paint? Ive been finding mixed results/ paint with cab off the truck, or on the truck.

Im also in need of a right side front fender. where is the best place to buy one? or should i watch for a used OEM fender.

took it for a drive yesterday and it was smoking on my ride home, got home and checked under it. oil running down driveshaft from transfer case, looks like tcase is leaking out of every hole imaginable. great lol

[nitrosport_5]

been slowly working on bodywork on the new cab and box. nothing much to report there.

got a new set of wheels and tires. arent exactly what i want but price was right. basicly traded them for me doing some work on a buddys dirtbike. not bad

[Tinkermc]

I think I'm hooked and will keep an eye on this build

[nitrosport_5]

Ive been really lucky so far with the shape of this spare bed and cab. The bed has one dent in the rear, and that is the worst of it. No rust whatsoever. The cab has a slight bit of surface rust on the floor, and in the little area where the door seal layed on the sil.

The only part i did not have was front fenders. My parts pile came with one driver side fender, but it is an aftermarket and i did not want to have to use it if i didnt have to. It says Gordon on the back side of it. I purchased a pair of oem fenders locally for what i thought was a good deal. Started DAing them and found some cool stuff in the bottom corner of the driver side fender (pic 2). Looks like i will be using the aftermarket fender afterall.

Also, anybody have an idea what these things are for (pic 3 and 4). there is 2 of them on each side of the inside of the bed.

And one last thing. i cant decide to use the current mirror style on the truck, or the "sport" mirrors on the 72 c10's

[jhaymon]

they're for a camper. my grandfathers truck has them for the big sleeper camper that was on it. my dad said it was a type of clamp, but im not sure how they work because the camper hasn't been on it sense he passed when i was 12.

[DeadheadNM]

I vote to keep the OEM below eyeline mirrors now on the truck rather than go with sports....I have those below eyeline mirrors on my K10 and am going with a set for my K20 build too.

[nitrosport_5]

Originally Posted by jhaymon

they're for a camper. my grandfathers truck has them for the big sleeper camper that was on it. my dad said it was a type of clamp, but im not sure how they work because the camper hasn't been on it sense he passed when i was 12.

THey werent an OEM thing were they?

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I vote to keep the OEM below eyeline mirrors now on the truck rather than go with sports....I have those below eyeline mirrors on my K10 and am going with a set for my K20 build too.

Thats more where i am leaning. is there a good replacement for them? Mine are rusty. Just snagged a nice driverside on ebay for $16. my passenger is decent, but the arms are a bit rusty. my driver side mirror is the worst, the glass is full of water and half the mirror surface is gone. Guess i could always look into have them replated as im asuming they are just chromed? I was thinking about getting my diff covers and other odds and ends re-chromed.

[DeadheadNM]

I'd cruise the parts board or post a WTB there for the below eyeline mirrors. 72's had the short arms, 71's had longer lower arms that mounted below the upper molding. As for chrome plating, see this post: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=495482

[nitrosport_5]

Took it out this weekend and got better pics of the new wheels. They look much better than the old ones. I also picked up another set of 16.5s from a friend cheap. BFG MTs. only downside is that one tire was destroyed. So i need to find one 16.5 BFG MT tire. Not going to be an easy task.

Started going through my brakes. Rears look fairly recently replaced. bearings are nice and tight, seals in good shape. oil that came out looks nice and clean doesnt smell burt. rear shocks look like new. no rust or anything that i can see. The rear drums have been replaced recently as well, or recently turned. They do say "Made in China" on them so i have to assume they are not the originals.

And i now know why the body is so damn rusty. driver cab corner and rocker is full of expand foam. So there was a hole, and some idiot just filled it full of foam and mudded over it. Every place on the body that there is a big rust spot, or hole, bondo surrounds it. So instead of doing it right and making it last, they half assed the body. Seems like everything else they did very nicely, but the body.. no so much.

[Chevymaniac]

Sounds like you are dealing with the same problem i am dealing with my cab. The previuos owner said body work was done to truck and i was happy that i would not have to do any. Once i got it home and took a closer look, i noticed body work was poorly done. Lots of bondo and the quality is just plain bad. I would have to replace rockers, cab muonts, the floor, cab corners, and aftermarket sunroof installed which leaks.

So now i am currently looking for donor truck. I also have 396 going into the truck, just need a few more items and than i can install it.

What kind of carb are you running? Looks like a holley.

2wd cabs came with high hump tranny tunnel if it had TH400 or 4spd in it.

[nitrosport_5]

Originally Posted by Chevymaniac

Sounds like you are dealing with the same problem i am dealing with my cab. The previuos owner said body work was done to truck and i was happy that i would not have to do any. Once i got it home and took a closer look, i noticed body work was poorly done. Lots of bondo and the quality is just plain bad. I would have to replace rockers, cab muonts, the floor, cab corners, and aftermarket sunroof installed which leaks.

So now i am currently looking for donor truck. I also have 396 going into the truck, just need a few more items and than i can install it.

What kind of carb are you running? Looks like a holley.

2wd cabs came with high hump tranny tunnel if it had TH400 or 4spd in it.

That sucks. This truck has older bodywork, but the bondo is everywhere and flaking off. Whoever did it last did a piss poor job.

The Carb is a Holley street avenger 670. Not sure if it's good or not, just was on there when I bought the truck.

My donor cab has a low hump. It's one piece with the floor pan, So Ill have to cut it out.
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[Tinkermc]

lots of hard work ahead