1969 k10 lwb to swb, 1 tons, 6.0/4l80e/np205

[wade_ab]

Originally Posted by Spicer

Nice choice of drive train! Great work on the frame and bed! Wish I had a dollar for every unfinished cut frame and body I’ve seen over the years! Great effort!
Also Nice shop... mine is a catch all!

Thanks Spicer, mine is becoming more and more of a catch all too

[wade_ab]

I did a little sandblasting and painting on the front Dana 60 this weekend. I was going to start putting the carrier and all the internals back in but realized a few things I was missing to do the job correctly. I have a couple questions if anyone has done a carrier swap.

I used POR 15 this time and coated it with the POR 15 chassis top coat. I figured i'd try it out too and see how it compared to the others. I liked it ok. I really like how hard that chassis saver I put under the bed was tho.

[Spicer]

I do them quite often, mostly from 4.10 carrier and down, to the 4.56 and up carrier...
What ratio are running? Locker? Any up grades while your in there?

This had 3.73's in it from the factory, it has 5.13's and an OX locker in now...

[wade_ab]

Originally Posted by Spicer

I do them quite often, mostly from 4.10 carrier and down, to the 4.56 and up carrier...
What ratio are running? Locker? Any up grades while your in there?

This had 3.73's in it from the factory, it has 5.13's and an OX locker in now...

WOW thats a lot of beef! Sweet diff cover and axle stands, thats legit.

Im running 4.56s open carrier. When I bought the D60 it had the stock carrier completely welded up so I bought a used open carrier off ebay and thought id just swap it out. Ive since then done a lot of research and found out its not quite as simple as I thought.

Correct me if im wrong, I am going to have to pull the pinion and all the pinion shims and reestablish all the shim depths with the new open carrier along with all my backlash settings?

Initially I thought I could just pull carrier, replace it, and set the backlash but the more I've read, it seems that Ill have to pull pinion and reset everything in order to get a correct pattern between the pinion and the ring gear?

[Spicer]

Well you should be able to start with the pinion depth you have now, and just set the new Carrier up with the same ring, but at times when you cant get the right pattern then you go from there, I would say the factory pinion depth is the closest your going to get with out setting up the carrier, when I set up used gears and I have the old shims, I use them as a starting point, so you are already half way there, and like you said carrier bearing backlash and so on, the main thing is to make sure you have the right series carrier, you can see the difference when you put them side by side with out the carrier bearings installed.
If you know or have checked then you are good to go…

[wade_ab]

Also should I buy a master rebuild kit or just source out the parts I need?

[Spicer]

I would say if the bearings (carrier) are good, I would swap the shims on the carrier as well, and do a test installing the carrier to see where you are, check the pattern and go from there, If you are replacing a factory open carrier to another factory open carrier you will be surprised how close they will be, and if then you need to move the carrier back or closer buy a Mini shim kit it will have (should) a seal, pinion & carrier shims with making compound. When the axle housing is out I use the spreader on the Dana models, but looks as though you already have the gears out so you have a good bead on how to do it.

[wade_ab]

The new carrier did not come with bearings attached, but my original ones look good, should I get a new set anyway and use the original as set up bearings? I think I read that this was suggested because taking the carrier in and out and pulling bearings and adjusting shims multiple times can damage a set of bearings real quick.

[Spicer]

It’s always best to install as many things as you can New while your in there so yes that’s a great way to do it, I have a set of bearing slugs that are the same size as the bearing with races and also a nice bearing remover, and it makes what your doing very easy, once you have this kind of stuff it’s hard to remember how I ever did it without them, so yes your on the right track… They also sell set up bearings, and they save a bunch of time and money as well, the last set I bought was many years ago and back then they were around 40.00 for the set, no races, good investment even if you only use them once.

[Spicer]

About the only thing you can do at this point different, is reset the pinion depth to the center point, and start over, when I do the exact same thing I go with the factory set up until it proves to be wrong, and considering all the pinion bearings and races are in good shape and so on. If you have a or have access to one you can check the pinion depth with a pinion depth gage, the pinion should have a + or – number on the head of it that will give the number that the factory recommends to start at when setting up the pinion, but IMO it’s just extra steps (if) the ring and pinion had no issues before you pulled them out… Yes I would do a test and go from there...

[wade_ab]

Ok good deal, thanks for letting me pick your brain. What part of Texas are you located in? If I cant get this thing figured out I might have to pay you a visit lol

[Spicer]

Anytime, with your carrier swap, you are very close IMO, and you have the confidence that’s needed to do what you are doing. I’m north of you about 150 miles, in the Tyler area. What Lockouts are you going to run?
Please feel free to stop by and visit anytime! When you get the 4L80E in there, you should have decent fuel mileage…

[wade_ab]

I got the Dana all put back together. It wasnt as bad as I thought it was going to be. It took some time and patience but I finally got the backlash into spec and ran a pattern. Its probable not perfect but it seems acceptable. I think the pinion could be moved out a hair but im happy with it.

[wade_ab]

I also got the fenders and hood sanded down and primed. I have some body work to do on the fenders and tailgate. I want to have everything primed up pretty soon so I can start hi-building and blocking. I'm anxious to paint, its warming up nicely and I want see what it will look like with some fresh color.

[muddnutz]

I don't know what I'm more impressed with. Your welding, trucks lack of rust or the fact that your wife helped. My wife might doesn't know what grease is. Lol
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[mjensen]

Wow, that is turning out great! I like it

[wade_ab]

Originally Posted by mjensen

Wow, that is turning out great! I like it

Thanks man, I just read your build thread, yours looks good too. I like those leaf springs, I haven't made a decision on which brand to go with for mine. I'm leaning towards the 8" skyjacker soft rides. Have you heard anything on these?

[mjensen]

Thanks! I did some limited research when buying mine, but ended up with the Tough Country springs because they were more economical (on sale ). I'll have to see if I can dig anything up for you.

[mjensen]

Here are some of the threads I had. For the most part, it looks like a dead heat. Looks like most people believe (and are probably right) that the shocks will make the biggest difference. Mine are the Tough Country Nitros. I'll let you know how they ride in about 10 years, when I get the truck done lol

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=343180

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=538671

[MTCK]

If you are looking for a good ride, I would check out a 52" spring swap. 2" spring and a zero rate add a leaf would get you ~7" lift I think. Shackle angle is important. Www.diy4x.com
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[wade_ab]

I had Friday off so I got some more stuff sanded and primed. I used chassis saver on the core support and wheel tubs and inner fenders.

[wade_ab]

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[wade_ab]

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[wade_ab]

I sand blasted my tailgate, it had some heavy pitting so I put some POR-15 on it before I primed it. Got the doors sanded down with some 60 grit and primed them too. All that need primer now is cab.

[obijuan]

here in town those go for 150 ish.