New Member, New Rig

[arturo7]

Thanks, Kim. I gotta say, I do not enjoy quitting.

The body needs a lot of work. My plan would be to restore it bit by bit over the next few years. But for now, I have a fixed budget to get her on the road. There in lies the dilemma; my pal's guesstimate on the body work puts me well beyond what's in my pocket.

But hey, I have not thrown in the towel. I should probably take some pics of the areas in question and post them here for evaluation.

[Daze57]

^ x 10 what kim said

[1project2many]

The hurdle that's toughest to overcome is the amount of time you'll end up investing. With that much rust and little experience you've got a big learning curve ahead of you. What might take one guy a couple of days to knock out could take you weeks or even months. If you need a driver "right now" I'd recommend buying a cheapie truck that's on the road and committing to this project long term. Don't give up though. It's a cool truck and you'll love it more than family when you get done.

[1project2many]

Wanted to add that you don't really have that much rust out there in sunny CA. Here's what we start with on the east coast:

[Daze57]

what great picts! wow how long has it been settin; there ? i hope you have good plans for her - ''fix her and put her back on the road'' !

[Root2812]

Arturo,
With body work it all takes time. I can tell you that the big flat body panels take the longest and are tough to get straight. With a panel truck like yours you have alot of those and some big dents in them. As an amature you probably won't be able to get that body to show condition but that doesn't sound like thats what youre after anyway. Alot of guys here have really beatup bodies on their trucks and still make some bad ass hot rods.

If you want a driver out of that truck don't get over whelmed by the body. Look at what you need to have a reliable truck. Suspension, wireing, engine/trans, fuel system, exhaust, and a bunch of other small things, most of which don't involve the body. Where you would want to work on the body is with safety stuff. If your floor is rotten fix that, make sure all your doors securely latch, ect. Make it a driver first and then start worrying about all the frills like comfort,sound systems, and paint and body.

If worst came to worst and you got all those things done and you still couldn't get that body where you wanted it then you can always re-evaluate finding another body, but atleast you'd have all the goodies underneith finished.

Body work can be scarey. A few years back I did a 1966 Bronco that had been rolled so every panel was dented and twisted. Nothing was replaced because of cost so everything was fixed. It took a year and a lot of swearing. Its not a show truck by any means but its still fun to drive.

[OrrieG]

Just a couple of comments. First, what is your motivation for doing the project? If it is to have a cool truck to drive you can always buy one completed, or mostly completed for less money than you can build one, especially in this economic climate. If it is to learn the skills and have an outlet for your creative passion, stress relief, etc. then the body work, mechanicals, wiring, etc. become the means, not a source of aggrevation, frustration and regrets. I have always worked on old cars starting when I was just a wrench handler as a child for my grandfather. I drive an old car daily, it connects me with my past. I work on my truck because it is one of the few things I can do that requires my full concentration and turns off all the other noise in my brain. And it and my woodworking connects me on a daily basis to my father, grandfather and others.

Second, regarding the rust bucket comments from you friends. These trucks were built solidly from pieces by people like you and me. Body work is not rocket science it is paying attention to detail, planning and lots of practice. The factory assembly manual show exactly how and the sequesnce of construction great for reverse engineering. I had the benefit of basically undivided attention for 3 months from an old body man when I used the Army hobby shop. There was little use by others and he loved to teach. It is a subtle science, basic physics of how metal moves and is deformed and reformed. Welding just takes the right equipment and lots of practice. But if your motivation is to learn, create and be proud of what you have done then it becomes fun and not a dreaded task.

Third, same with the mechanics, wiring, upolstery, etc. All just skills to be learned. This site has a wealth of knowledge. With the internet and Youtube there are tutorials about anything. There is a guy that goes my MartinSR over at stovebolt.com and on the camaro and chevelle sites that has lots of detailed info on bodywork and fabrication. Most of us old farts had to find even older guys to hang around with before the internet. You have the advantage of starting in a time when a lot of the stuff you will need it reproduced and relatively easy to find.

Evalutate your motivation and make a decision from there. I look forward to seeing your progress.

[pvienneau]

What OrrieG said is right on the money. If you love the chevy trucks and working with your hands you should stick with the build. I'd like to see this one get done. Its a great panel truck. If you think your project is rusty check out mine when I started.

[1959Chev]

Look at my build thread and see what I started with. Would love to see this one get started.

[TX58]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Arthur
Try not to get too discouraged. There's a lot of guys here that have started with much worse and no experience and come out with some really nice trucks.
I had zero experience with body work when I started mine and have just learned as I've gone along with my build.
Don't be afraid to tackle new things. Every one here will be willing to help.
Kim

Hey, he's right. Look up some of my postings. I really was discouraged a while back by how long things take to do during a restoration. I have always been somewhat mechanically inclined but I now have a different respect for those who do this for a living. I have learned a lot about paint and body work, be sure to invest in good tools and materials. It does make the difference. I found out that Eastwood Company can be your friend when it comes to these things. The prices are good and their new line of body fillers and primers are easy to use and come out great. I even use their paints for chassis, underhood, and finish. I have been really pleased. I did have a little trouble with welding, I bought a new Lincoln 140 HD from Home Depot and I wish I was a better welder. Im sure it will get better with more practice. I'm currently in the middle of a vintage air a/c install which isn't too bad but I'm having to wait on other parts that I didn't know I needed. The other challenge was wiring which Im still not done with, I have the engine and dash wired but still need to add a/c, radio, lights. Etc. Be ready for things to happen that you don't expect. Today I cranked up the engine for the first time since I installed a new carb and it flooded the engine, for some reason the float isn't stopping the fuel flow and made a huge mess. Screwed up my painted intake. I just cleaned it up and went home. Sometimes it helps to leave it alone and do your research to find out what went wrong. Then you go back and knock it out. I will always remember this 58, it's my first try at a restoration. Enjoy your panel, it's really cool and deserves to be back on the road.
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[arturo7]

Gosh gang, I'm overwhelmed by the support. Seriously. Thank you.

[arturo7]

I knew the thing was a rust bucket when I bought it. It seems I just underestimated how much of the bodywork needs to be addressed it make it road worthy.

I'll snap more pics tomorrow AM. As stated in the first post, I don't need a show car, just something to haul my big fiddle around SoCal.

[arturo7]

Just went through it again and took a plethora of pics. I gotta say, I think my buddy's been smokin' crack. Once I coat the frame and drop in a drive train, I don't think it will be a problem putting her on the road.

Here are some pics of the nastiness. Ugly for sure, but is there anything that renders her undriveable? If you see a red flag, please let me know. (There are more pics in my gallery if you're really bored)

[1project2many]

The rule here is not to leave any holes that can allow exhaust into the vehicle, and not to leave any sharp edges. Exhaust gas can make you drowsy, stupid, or dead without you even realizing it's happening. IMO the back of the roof should be repaired / sealed for sure. Holes in the fenders and bottoms of the doors are questionable but probably don't breach the interior.

[arturo7]

Sounds like good advice. Thanks, 1p2m.

[arturo7]

Good news!

A second buddy looked over the vehicle today and agreed with my assessment the my other buddy is on crack. Nothing much wrong with the body that can't wait until after she's on the road. He is actually more optimistic about vehicle's upside than me. Woo-hoo!

So it is set. The first phase of the project has the green light! First week of Sept, I'm ripping the body off the chassis. Well, hopefully not ripping. Disassembling.

Just have to figure out how...

[OrrieG]

Buy a factory assembly manual, it shows the panels and burbs too. You can reverse engineer the assembly process. It shows all the little things that will need to disconnected and accouted for. Take lots of pictures, and tag and bag as you go. I opened a bag to clean some door screws and found my detailed disassembly instructions. It helps if you clean up stuff you are going to be reusing so you don't get frustrated when in a hurry to reassemble. I think the only big difference is that it obviously comes off in one piece instead of cab and bed separately.

[Daze57]

^ x 2

[arturo7]

Thanks, guys. Picked up the manuals a couple days after I bought the truck. I have a fair idea of what needs to happen. However, never having done it, I still feel a bit intimidated.

But hey, ever forward, right? As a bike mechanic buddy of mine once said, "You don't own it unless you built it."