'64 restoration...

[88Lt1wagon]

Wiring is closer to the last step since wires have to go around everything else. You will need a new cluster since your original speedometer was mechanical and now you'll get a pulse signal from your transmission, or you could get a Cable X if you really want to keep your dash looking original. I did it the hard way in my wagon and put a mechanical gear on my tailshaft for the speedo, then got a converter from Dakota Digital to send a signal to the computer, don't waste your time. Fuel and exhaust and bodywork, man, then worry about wiring. Now might be a good time to rebuild the front end and convert to power disc brakes and steering.

[skip64]

Finally made it back to the shop and got a couple of things done, well almost done. Thanks to the great information I received concerning exhaust manifolds, I was able to acquire a pair of Trailblazer SS (TBSS) manifolds. As I was told, they mounted with no problems with the exception of the drivers side. The original rear-most mounting bolt is broken off inside the head...! Gonna have to use and easy-out to get that issue fixed. Other than that, a very uneventful install. Dirver side has plenty of clearance. Passenger side frame will need a very small amount of "massaging" to clear the flange. It bolted up, just will have an issue connecting to the flange if I don't grind the frame a little. I also torqued down my engine mount bolts as well as the cab mounting bolts.

Driver side manifiold


Driver side manifold flange (flange is well below the frame)


Passenger side manifold


Passenger side manifold flange (flange mounting bolt almost touches the frame)

[skip64]

Made a little progress this past weekend. I massaged the passenger side frame so that there would be room to mount the exhaust flange. Loosely put the front body work back on and painted the valve covers. Both valvetrains looked excellent. No sludge whatsoever. I have been wanting to paint something Chevy orange and figured the covers will work. I plan on removing the bed next so that I can measure for my fuel tank as well as get the frame treated with POR-15. I also started looking at what I can get rid of in the engine bay. I took off the cruise control cable and motor and looked into what circuits I can get rid of on the fuse box. Circuits like heated mirrors and seats can probably be deleted as well as some others.

[88Lt1wagon]

I can't see your pictures

[skip64]

Not sure why. I can see them just fine. Anyone else having problems seeing them?

[racecougar]

The ones in the last post aren't showing up for me either.

[64C10Fleet]

Not sure how I missed this... Hello from Summerville!!

[Captainfab]

Yep, just the red X's for the last set of pics.

[skip64]

I'll try this again... Probably my error I'm sure.

[88Lt1wagon]

Nice, I love it

[glos55]

Very Nice! Welcome and Thanks for your service!!!!

[Captainfab]

Looks good

And yes, Thank You for your service

[skip64]

More progress to show. My buddy and I removed the bed and the cross sills this weekend. I'll be heading back this weekend to apply the POR-15 on the remaining portion of the frame. I do have a question for any body experts. The front bed panel is rusted through in areas. I tried to get the best picture I could to show the problem area. My question is, is the panel too far gone to save? I also get to show you the wheels I'm thinking about using. I got five of them for $50 and they are from a late model Chevy 1500. I like them because they're larger than the originals. I really like the look of the wagon wheels, but the biggest I could find were 15". These are 17". I'm planning on getting them either power coated or Plasti-dipped white.

bed removed




front bed panel rust



wheels

[LostMy65]

By quoting your post I see the code is right for the img links to your photobucket account, but they don't show up in your post or my quote of your post.
Are these pics in the same photobucket folder as the others?

Originally Posted by skip64

Made a little progress this past weekend. I massaged the passenger side frame so that there would be room to mount the exhaust flange. Loosely put the front body work back on and painted the valve covers. Both valvetrains looked excellent. No sludge whatsoever. I have been wanting to paint something Chevy orange and figured the covers will work. I plan on removing the bed next so that I can measure for my fuel tank as well as get the frame treated with POR-15. I also started looking at what I can get rid of in the engine bay. I took off the cruise control cable and motor and looked into what circuits I can get rid of on the fuse box. Circuits like heated mirrors and seats can probably be deleted as well as some others.

Posted via Mobile Device

[88Lt1wagon]

I can see his pics in his post, but not in your reply...

[skip64]

No, they were not is the same folder. I moved them to the one I wanted them in after I posted the message in the forum.

[LostMy65]

Here's the address of a pic we can see:
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...C-10/wheel.jpg

Here's the address of a pic we can't see:
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ntbodywork.jpg
Posted via Mobile Device

[LostMy65]

I can see all your pics except the ones in post 28
Posted via Mobile Device

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Here's the address of a pic we can see:
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...C-10/wheel.jpg

Here's the address of a pic we can't see:
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ntbodywork.jpg
Posted via Mobile Device

By adding 1964%20Chevrolet%20C-10 to the address they show up




So either don't move pics after you've posted the links, otherwise go back and update the links.
Posted via Mobile Device

[skip64]

The pics that were supposed to be in post #28 are now in post #34. Life lesson learned, don't move pics unless link is updated. Hopefully all is good to go now.

[skip64]

Been awhile, but getting back into it. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering a fuel cell, straps and filler neck from Jegs, P/N's 555-15335, 555-15339 and 821-7036B respectively. I want the filler neck because I plan on running fuel hose to an opening in the step side fender and add a fuel filler door. The fittings on the cell are -08AN. Being new to all of this and having little to no clue, what size steel/rubber line do I need to get (Inside and/or Outside Diameter)? I assume the fittings on the fuel lines will be -08AN as well? As usual, you guys are great at providing information and I am once again asking for help.

[racecougar]

-8AN translates to 1/2" nominal I.D. lines.

[skip64]

racecougar, thanks for the quick and informative response!

So 1/2" lines along with the -8 AN fittings then? Since I'm using EFI, I'll be running supply and return lines.

[Clyde65]

Skip, if you want to keep the stock heater under the hood, just change your trans dipstick to an Fbody with the 4l60e trans. FYI, I did this and put all the cruise stuff in the heater box

[racecougar]

Originally Posted by skip64

racecougar, thanks for the quick and informative response!

So 1/2" lines along with the -8 AN fittings then? Since I'm using EFI, I'll be running supply and return lines.

Yes, -8AN hose or 1/2" I.D. lines would match up well to the -8AN fitting size well.