Wiring Your Truck

[hotrod1]

Watched the video on the ISIS. Nice but OUCH on the price. I think that it is too much and if something goes wrong you can not fix it.

Some one else mentioned American Auto Wire as another good system.


Did anyone else find a solution to removing the cab with an easy solution for the wires?

[fredscarryall]

the speedway 20 circuit wire harness for $159 looks really nice and is the best priced i have seen.the wires are even labeled every six inches. but remember 20 circuit doesnt mean 20 fuse slots there are only about 16 fuse slots.thats just not on the speedway kit that on anyone of them. give yourself about a week or more and take your time,if you get to pissed off walk away for a bit .if you work when you are mad it will just get worse. be patient with yourself. when you get the harness. the first thing you will want to do is seperate the wire harness into 3 sections the front harness, dash harness and rear harness.if you need to extend a wire use the same color wire . you will want to buy non insolated butt connectors and eyelets,firewall gromments, expandable wire loom,zip ties and the right size shrink tubing.if you can afford it buy yourself a power probe.they are about $100 on amazon and well worth it.its like a wire light tester on steroids.check out powerprobe.com.if you wire it up under the seat your dash wire harness and your front harness wires may be to short and you have to extend the wires which really can suck to do and becomes another possiblea breaking point.remember to use shrink tube on every connection.avoid black tape

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by fredscarryall

the speedway 20 circuit wire harness for $159 looks really nice and is the best priced i have seen.the wires are even labeled every six inches. but remember 20 circuit doesnt mean 20 fuse slots there are only about 16 fuse slots.thats just not on the speedway kit that on anyone of them. give yourself about a week or more and take your time,if you get to pissed off walk away for a bit .if you work when you are mad it will just get worse. be patient with yourself. when you get the harness. the first thing you will want to do is seperate the wire harness into 3 sections the front harness, dash harness and rear harness.if you need to extend a wire use the same color wire . you will want to buy non insolated butt connectors and eyelets,firewall gromments, expandable wire loom,zip ties and the right size shrink tubing.if you can afford it buy yourself a power probe.they are about $100 on amazon and well worth it.its like a wire light tester on steroids.check out powerprobe.com.if you wire it up under the seat your dash wire harness and your front harness wires may be to short and you have to extend the wires which really can suck to do and becomes another possiblea breaking point.remember to use shrink tube on every connection.avoid black tape

Very well spoken Fred.
As a retired telephone cable splicer this the accepted practice today, just the tone generator has gotten about 11lbs lighter (76-C)!!!
Check out the quality of the ones at HF they should last about three vehicles on one set of battries

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

Not cheap, but the hot ticket right now. Not for everyone though.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...t/viewall.html

Nice but not enough moving parts

[1project2many]

ISIS is pretty high tech. As a guy that deals with the problems that occur when automotive components get old, worn, or corroded I'm happy to "step back" into an old vehicle that can be parked for two or three years and still work just fine when it's restarted.

[1project2many]

Did anyone else find a solution to removing the cab with an easy solution for the wires?

Do you mean building a new harness with provisions to remove the cab? A bulkhead connector from many OEM cars would address that.

[hotrod1]

Does anyone know any more about the GM weatherhead connector and how you can use it and hook it up? Also, where to get it?

[OrrieG]

Youtube has some videos on assembly. Not complicated just attention to detail. You can get kits from Summitt, Jegs and ebay suppliers. Look carefully at the combinations of connectors and what comes with them. Amazon has kits and tools too. you can also get the individual ones but they are pretty expensive, if you need more thant two or three the kit is the way to go. They say you need an expensive crimping tool but the only difference I see is that there is one part that is round for the seal crimp. When I get mine I am going to see if I can modify one of my extra crimpers to work.

[_Ogre]

i used a lot of weatherpack connectors in truk (weatherhead is hydraulic)
weather pack and metri pack use the same crimping tool
they are very nice but like orrie said they have a specialty crimper
i tried to modify or use a different crimper with no luck
get the right tool and get a good one

http://www.weatherpack.com/

[fredscarryall]

here are two bulkhead connector from summit racing.one is painless wiring for $100 the other is from keep it clean wiring or hoffman group for $85 part #TPGC.i am thinking about buying one for mine.they are both 22 pin and can be plugged and unplugged very easily.

[_Ogre]

i can't think of a viable reason to use a bulkhead fitting.
once the cab goes on and gets wired i don't see anyone removing the cab again.
when your to the wiring stage, next would be the glass and interior
i can't imagine taking the cab off with a fully loaded interior

[hotrod1]

the beauty of these trucks is that the "body" is removable unlike a 60s musclecar. I want to be able to remove if necessary. In fact, I will finish my truck without any finish paint, drive it around for a while to make sure that all the problems are worked out, take it apart, and then paint it, and re assemble.